History of Black Hair: The Beauty and Politic of Black Hair

Introduction

From ancient times in Africa, during enslavement, throughout the Diaspora, to the present, “Black hair” has had its own meaning(s). This course offers the opportunities to explore multiple cultural lessons about hair and life. Black hairstyles have been glorified and imitated while simultaneously demonized, demoralized, and belittled in a world where European standards of beauty have been raised up in popular culture. Participants will develop and understanding of manifestations of modern pigeonholes about Black hair, seen when branded or judged based on hair texture, length, color, and style. Students will investigate stereotypes, which have had real psychological, social, economic, and legal consequences for African and African American people. Additionally, students will realize the “Politics of Black Hair”, while providing a thorough analysis of issues related to the history, culture, sociology, psychology, and economics of “Black hair.” Students will examine contemporary reasons why black hairstyles may signify, resist, and conform in society. Students will also investigate inventions, modification of creative techniques, and products made for grooming, health, and expression throughout history.

Hair maintenance in traditional Africa was aimed at creating a sense of beauty. Before slavery, many believed that hair, given its close location to the skies, was the conduit for spiritual interaction with God." In essence, black hair establish communication between the spiritual and physical world.

How slave owners chose to deal with slave’s natural hair state began to demonize black hair textures. African hair was considered a treasure given to them form birth by their divine creator. Hair was definitely one way slave masters justified their violent treatment of slaves. Their hair earned them the classification of being sub-human, or closer to characteristics of animals, due to their course textures and dark tones. The practice of having their heads involuntarily shaved before being sold as slaves was in itself a dehumanizing act.

When slaves were brought to the United States from Africa, in some ways, their hair was the only part of them that refused to be tamed or submissive. Slave master’s developed their own individual rules for African hair. Slaves sometimes were required to cover their heads up with a rag or scarf like material, while others required them to shave their heads and rid themselves from what was considered “Gods Glory”.

During the 19th Century, slavery was abolished in much of the world, including the United States in 1865. However, many black people felt pressure to fit in with mainstream white society and adjusted their hair accordingly."Black people felt compelled to smoothen their hair and texture to fit in easier, and to move in society better and in camouflage almost. After slavery and with colonization being wide spread, many straight styles emerged. Hairstyles at that time, were inherently influenced by Eurocentric standards of beauty: sleek tresses, pompadours, and smooth waves achieved through pressing combs and relaxers.

The industry grew to the extent that black entrepreneurs Annie Malone and Madame CJ Walker, who sold hair growth products, shampoos and ointments aimed at the African-American market. Walker is recorded as the first self-made millionairess in the US by Guinness World Records. This rival duo produced great advances in African American hair care.

Early hair straightening systems relied on harsh chemicals that tended to damage the hair. In the 1870s, the French hairdresser Marcel Grateau introduced heated metal hair care such as the hot combs to straighten hair. For this design a host of straighting and taming tools.

The Afro, which hit its stride in the 1960s, was an expression of pride, connection, power, revolution, and differentiation. The Afro first gained popularity with performers, artists, activists, youth, and nationalists. Young people who did not adopt this trend were for the first time judged and subject to "blacker-than-thou" policing by their peers. Blacks began to use their hair to showcase a link to their African ancestors and Blacks throughout the diaspora. The Afro, in conjunction with the Civil Rights Movement, was helping to define black identity.

Garrett Augustus Morgan, in 1909, accidentally found hair straighten cream when trying to find a solution to ease friction of sewing machine in his tailor shop. Morgan tested his cream on a neighboring dog's fur, and what do you know it was straight.  During the 1980s, the ′Jheri curl′, another technique to loosen tightly curled hair, became fashionable in the African American community, popularized especially by some celebrities such as Michael Jackson. These harsh chemicals caused the naturally tight curls to loosen with low mantenance of applying curl activator creams or sprays.

Throughout History, Black people, especially women were trained to believe that kinky, tight coils, A.K.A nappy hair was not acceptable, and sadly, not attractive. This idea is not totally lost in todays society. Black children are bullied, teased, and questioned about their hair textures and the difference between their hair and the hair of white, Asian, and Hispanic children. Kinky hair for many years, has been considered not “good” hair as if God gave them bad hair or a raw deal.

America has social debates that place hair into 2 categories:

1. Good Hair

2. Bad Hair

“Good Hair” tends to align with the idea of straight hair. Additionally, straight hair falls under the category of being professional. “Bad Hair” is related to hair in its natural state that has not endured any processes. It is often associated with being unprofessional. When people use the term, “I’m having a bad hair day”, most often than not it is linked to hair being frizzy, unruly, and not laying straight.

Braids, dreads, weaves, extensions, afros, twists, and knots, are nothing new.  The all have deep rooted origins in early African civilization.  These diverse and unique styles ave carried over into contemporary design for men and women. 

• The US Army's new restrictions on which hairstyles are acceptable for African American women have angered everyone from soldiers to members of Congress. The US Army has recently updated grooming standards with the aim of ensuring uniformity among troops, but in doing so it banned several natural hairstyles popular with black women. complicating life for up to one-quarter of female soldiers and triggering a backlash on Capitol Hill. Georgia National Guard, started an online petition demanding that the regulations be rescinded.

  In 2015, A woman said she was left "shocked and embarrassed" after she was asked to change her hairstyle to secure a job. Simone Powderly, from South London, had braids in her hair when she went for an interview at a recruitment agency - but was told they were not suitable when selling "high end" products. Luckily celebrities like Serena Williams, and Lupita Nyong'o, has long been an outspoken advocate for celebrating the beauty of textured hair.

  The journey and liberation of Black hair is far from over. In 2018, a black high school wrestler had his dreads chopped off by a white woman. It wasn’t until 2019 that The Crown Act, which stands for “Create a Respectful and Open Word for Natural hair,” was passed in California, which then became the first state to ban natural hair discrimination. Presently, only seven states have enacted this into law.

  
  

The birth of hip-hop gave way to more creative expressions of hairstyling: Janet Jackson in box braids, the gender bending high top fade of Grace Jones that boldly defied Eurocentric norms of beauty and acceptability and there is much debate about whether some trends still symbolize a desire to fit in with a mainstream Western look.

For many years black hair has been judged, misread, and used to restrict freedom by people in power. Black hair is strong, like the people attached to it. Black people continue to be innovative when finding new ways to style and to bring glory to their hair. Celebrities have give views on black hair a bump up in society. Black hair is resilient and has survived, slavery, colonization, and scrutiny. Black hair styles receive a re-boot thanks to celebrities embracing African hairstyles from the past.

The natural hair movement is concentrated on inspiring women and men with African ancestry to honor and appreciate the natural characteristics of their kinky, curly, hair texture.