Polite Puppy Dog Training Class
- 1 hour on-demand video
- 2 articles
- 4 downloadable resources
- Full lifetime access
- Access on mobile and TV
- Certificate of Completion
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- Learn how to use clicker training to teach your dog the following useful behaviors:
Eye contact, name response
Sit, Down, and Stay
- Touch (Hand Targeting)
- Go To Your Mat
- Crate Training
- Doggie Zen (Leave It)
- Boundary Training / Prevent Door Dashing
- Address Barking Problems
- This course is designed to help owners train their dogs to be polite in the house. Serious behavior problems (aggression, etc.) are outside the scope of this course.
Want your puppy to be a model housemate? Enroll in our online Polite Puppy training course and teach your dog proper house manners. By taking our Polite Puppy program you will be preventing and/or solving the following in-home problem behaviours: door dashing, counter-surfing, incessant barking, and other rude or pushy behaviour. With your dog’s refined house manners not only will they be better behaved in your home, they may even be invited to someone else’s.
Who should take this dog training course?
Dogs and owners that are new to positive reinforcement / clicker training. Perfect for your new puppy, or recent adopted rescue.
What will you learn?
- Clicker training basics – Sit, Down, Hand Target and Name Response
- Go to Your Mat/Settle
- Doggie Zen/Leave-It
- Boundary Training/Wait patiently by the door
- Crate training
- Barking: Resolve any issues with barking
Format of the course:
Your Treatpouch puppy training course is presented through video and online content. You’ll get direct coaching and feedback from us via questions you post in our discussion forum. We are committed to your success! You are not just buying access to view a course, but instead, interact with two professional dog trainers.
What's Not Included
Please note, that the scope of the course is limited to the syllabus. We will answer questions related to the exercises that are covered in this program, not every possible dog training question that might be out there.
About Treatpouch.com's Trainers
After graduating from a correction-style dog training program in 2003, Julie got a new puppy – a Pug Beagle X (Puggle) named Tyson. At 8 months Tyson started barking and lunging at people, at 10 months he became leash reactive towards dogs, by 1 year he had full out aggression towards puppies. When Julie realized that she had not learned proper techniques to deal with aggression – punishing Tyson for his behaviour made him lash out with greater intensity, she started looking for new ways to help her dog. Clicker training brought a new light to Tyson’s aggression and gave Julie a skill-set to manage his behaviour. This inspired Julie to learn about positive reinforcement training and set her on the path to becoming a professional positive reinforcement dog trainer.
Julie is a Certified Pet Dog Trainer, Knowledge Assessed (CPDT-KA) through the Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers (CCPDT). As the owner of a successful dog walking company in Toronto, Julie sharpens her training skills daily when she is out on her group walks. When she’s not dog walking you can find her teaching tricks to her own dogs.
Both her dogs have titles in Rally Obedience and Freestyle but her greatest accomplishment is being able to bring her Puggle out with her on group walks. Treatpouch.com is her way of sharing with the world both the power of positive reinforcement training and the joy that comes from working with your dog.
Julie is currently pursuing her Master's degree in Animal Behavior, at Memorial University, in St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada.
Andre’s passion for dog training began when he rescued his beagle, Duke, who suffered from on-leash reactivity and dog-aggression. Andre quickly discovered clicker training and the power of positive reinforcement, and through patience and care was able to help Duke overcome his fear and dislike of other dogs.
Duke’s success gave Andre the confidence to volunteer and foster with a number of animal rescue organizations in the city. While each foster dog presented new challenges every dog could be helped through clicker training.
In 2009, Andre decided to open When Hounds Fly! in Downtown Toronto, to make positive reinforcement training convenient and accessible to members of the community, and to improve the quality of life for dogs and dog owners in the downtown core. With the success of his school and the transformation he’s seen in the neighbourhood dogs, Andre decided that it would be a worthy cause to offer people the benefits of positive reinforcement based training regardless of where they live. Through Treatpouch.com Andre hopes to improve the lives of dogs and their people all over the world.
Andre is a Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner (KPA CTP), a Certified Pet Dog Trainer, Knowledge Assessed (CPDT-KA), and a Truly Dog-Friendly Trainer. He grew up in Vancouver, has a bachelor’s degree in commerce, with honors, from the University of British Columbia, and lives in Toronto with his partner, Hyedie Hashimoto, and their rescue beagles, Duke and Petey.
- All dog owners who wish to learn how to use modern, force-free, science-based dog training techniques to improve their dog's in-home behavior.
This section will teach you what you need to know in order to be successful in training your dog through clicker training.
Objective: To teach your dog that it is fun and rewarding to look at the handler.
Benefits of this behavior
- To build value for his name so that he’s eager to respond when you call him.
- To teach your dog that his name means disengage from what he’s into and turn back to looking at you for direction.
- A beginner step for helping a dog with problem behavior by teaching him to look away from his trigger.
|Exercise: Reinforcing Eye contact
Exercise: Building a Name Response
• My dog doesn’t give me any attention!
Check that your the rewards you are giving your dog are high enough value. Make sure you practice when your dog is hungry. It is a bad habit to leave your dog’s food out all day for him to pick at because it devalues his food as a reward. Only put his food down for short periods of time and reserve a portion for training so that you don’t overfeed him.
Objective: To teach your dog to lie down with the cue “Down”.
Exercise 1- Down Luring Method
|Exercise: Down Capturing Method
Troubleshooting the Down
When I move the lure my dog gets up?
- Keeping the lure close to your dog will prevent him from standing. If the lure is too far forward, he may get up to follow it.
- You can use your your leg as a guide. Here’s a short video demonstrating this technique.
- If your dog gets up in a stand, move the treat away, cue “sit” and lower the criteria so you can click your dog for being successful.
You can use your your leg as a guide. Here’s a short video demonstrating this technique.
Start with your dog on one side of your outstretched leg. Bring the treat under your leg and towards his nose. Use the lure to guide him down. You may need to break the behaviour in small steps so that your dog doesn’t give up. Click and feed for a few easy steps building up to the point where he lies down to go under your leg to take his reward.
Go To Your Mat
Objective: To teach your dog to go to his mat when you cue “Mat”.
Benefits of this Behavior
- You can teach your dog to go to his mat anytime you need him to stay put. Whether you are answering the door, eating dinner, or have a guest over, having your dog stay on his mat is an excellent way to manage his behaviour.
|Exercise: Go To Your Mat
Some general training guidelines:
- After every 10 treats take a short break and grab another ten treats. This will give your dog a little break
- Training time in total should be short (between 5-15 minutes). Short sessions throughout the day is better than one long session.
- You are ready to raise criteria when your dog does 5 correct behaviours in a row.
- Where you feed your dog is important. If you want to reinforce your dog to enjoy being on their mat, feed them one treat on their mat and then toss a treat so that you can set your dog up for a new training opportunity.
If your dog is really impatient, try clicking and feeding quickly in the begining (rapid fire reinforcement) or increasing your reward to higher value. It’s your job to convince your dog that being in a sit or down is a worthwhile endeavor.
Adding in a verbal cue.
Because we are using a release cue we technically don’t need a verbal cue for stay as we are basically telling the dog to stay in that position until your are released.
In week 4 we will discuss teaching your dog to “settle” - a long down stay. We will also be adding in distractions to proof the behaviour.
Part 1 - Crate Training
We want to teach your dog that good things happen when he is in his crate. Regardless of whether he willingly will go in his crate or not, we are going to make the crate a positive experience so that he will learn to enjoy going in there.
Caution: Some dogs do not enjoy being confined and get extremely panicky as soon as you shut the crate door. If you notice your dog doing any of the following: ignoring food, panting, salivating, pawing at the door, anxious barking, open the door and allow your dog to leave and come back on his own terms. Start fresh by pairing the crate with good things.
Part 2 - Crate Training
The goal of Part 2 is to build duration.
We want your dog to learn that being in his crate is a good thing.
Management: While you are working towards having your dog crate trained, I’m sure there are times when you need to leave your puppy unattended. Use a small room (laundry room or bathroom) to confine your puppy. Leave his crate in there with the door open. Forcing him into the crate and shutting the door will only serve to make him dislike their crate.
We are going to focus on exercises to teach your dog patience and combat pushiness.
Exercise 1: Closed Hand
Teach your dog to back away from a treat in your hand.
Troubleshooting: If your dog is scratching at your hand too hard consider using a less tantalizing treat, or walk away and come back and click BEFORE he has a chance to mug your hand.
Exercise 2: Open Hand
Teach your dog to wait patiently in front of an open hand with a treat.
Troubleshooting: If your dog tries to jump at your hand, walk away and come back when you are ready to start a new session. Bring it out for a split second, click then treat before he has a chance to jump or lunge. You want to teach him that being patient is what gets him his reward.
Exercise 3: Treat to the ground.
With a treat in your hand, lower your hand to the floor.
More advanced exercises:
Exercise 4: Treat on the table
Exercise 5: Walking by a treat on a floor.
Troubleshooting: My dog won’t turn away from the treats.
- Stand further away from the treats.
- Try treats that are not as high value.
- Make a clicking sound to get his attention the first couple of times.
Adding the “leave-it” cue
Only introduce the Leave-It cue when your dog is already backing away from the treat. We don’t want to introduce the cue unless the dog is already offering the behaviour. When you introduce the cue say it in a calm, happy voice. Cues are not meant to be intimidating. Practice the cue for many repetitions so that your dog is successful before you take it outside in the real world. Once your dog is responding to the cue, you can start to use it earlier to tell him to back away from something.
Can you get eye contact in the presence of a treat?
- Draw a treat away from your dog’s face and click then treat when he looks in your eyes.
- Put a treat on the ground- click, then treat, when your dog breaks his focus on the treat and looks in your eyes.
Can you place a treat on your dog’s paws?
- When your dog is in a down put the treat on the ground and click, then treat, when he looks at you. Move the treat closer and closer to his paw until you can rest a treat on it.
We are putting their lives at risk if we let our dogs dash out of open doors.
Objective: To teach dogs the following:
- To wait for a release at an open door.
- To wait in their crate when the door opens
- To wait in the car when the door opens.
Wait for a release at an open door.
- Have a leash on your dog.
- Approach the door. Wait until your dog offers a sit (make sure you don’t ask him to sit we want this to be automatic). Click then treat when he sits.
- Touch the door handle, click then treat for your dog remaining in the sit.
- Open the door slightly, click then treat for your dog remaining in the sit.
- Repeat this process building up the distraction level by gradually opening the door wider. Click then treat each time your dog remains in the sit position while you open the door. In these sessions, the dog is not going outside but instead being rewarded with a treat for sitting in the presence of an open door.
- If he gets up, shut the door, turn around and restart the session making it easier.
- For the sessions where you are going to go outside. Approach the door, wait for your dog to sit, open the door, click and RELEASE him to move forward (in this case, the reward is a life reward – the opportunity to go outside).
- Choose your release word carefully so that it is unique. Words like “OK” are used too often in our vocabulary. Words like “Break”, “Release”, “Go Free”, “Let’s go”, are a better choice.
- Build up the distraction level. You can put your dog’s toy or some treats on the other side of the door. Make sure you always have a leash on your dog to prevent him from dashing during your training.
- Build duration – keep the door open for longer periods of time while your dog waits patiently.
Exercise 2 - Crate training
In lesson 2 we addressed some crate manners. The crate offers lots of training opportunities as well as combat pushiness. We can teach our dogs to wait patiently when we open the crate door.
- Put your hand on the door if your dog starts fussing wait and don’t open it.
- As soon as your dog is calm open the door, toss a treat and shut the door.
- Repeat several times until your dog learns that you opening the crate door is not an opportunity for him to barge out, but instead an opportunity for him to get a reward.
Exercise 3 - Car Door
Ideally your dog should be in a crate in the car for safety purposes or wearing a harness seatbelt. If he is free to roam in your car practice door manners so that he doesn’t charge out when you open the car door.
- Wait for your dog to be calm
- Open the door, toss a treat, close the door
- Repeat, until your dog expects his reward
- Open the door ask for Sit, Feed, Close the door
- Do a couple of sessions where you open the door, ask for a sit, release your dog out of the car.
Exercise 2 - Teach your dog Bark and Quiet
Why should you teach your dog to Bark on cue and to be Quiet on cue?
- If we teach the dog to bark when we ask for it, and reinforce that behavior, the dog will be less likely to do it unless it’s requested.
- Teaching a Quiet cue allows us to stop barking, and dogs learn behaviors quickly if we can teach them in opposite pairs (in this case, Bark, and Quiet)
Steps to teaching Bark and Quiet.
- Prompt Behavior First. Setup the environment such that the dog is likely to bark. In the case of Elaine, I knocked the wall to prompt a bark, and clicked then treated for the bark.
- Wait for the Behavior to be Offered. After a series of repetitions, I stopped knocking and waited. I wanted to see if Elaine would offer the behavior and bark on her own. As soon as she did, I clicked then treated.
- Shape the Behavior. Elaine’s offered bark ranged from a low growl, to a quiet bark, to a loud, piercing bark. I want the finished behavior to be a loud bark, so I simply stopped reinforcing low growls or quiet barks. I only clicked loud, piercing barks.
- Add the Cue. Once Elaine was offering a bark of a volume I liked, I added a cue. I cued a “talk-talk” hand gesture just as Elaine was about to begin barking. Then, I progressively cued earlier and earlier, until when she was silent, I could cue the “talk-talk” hand gesture, and she would bark after it.
- Work on Stimulus Control. This is a very important part of training a useful Bark cue! It is important that Elaine only be reinforced for barking when cued (the “talk-talk” hand gesture). I intentionally allowed Elaine to offer a bark (uncued), and intentionally did not click then treat for it. After a moment of silence, I gave the cue, and then clicked then treated the resulting bark. The dog must learn that reinforcement only comes from this behavior when it is cued.
- Quiet Cue through Classical Conditioning. Teaching a quiet cue is easy with classical conditioning. Simply give the cue for quiet (I am using a “shhh” hand gesture), pause for half a second, and then give the dog a treat. With the consistent pairing of the quiet cue to the delivery of a treat, the dog will start to anticipate the delivery of a treat once the cue is given. It is very important that during this process that when you give the quiet cue, you give a treat. Using classical conditioning to train behaviors means that once you give the cue, you PROMISE to give the treat, no matter what the dog is doing… including when they continue to bark. In the following video, on the last trial, you will see Elaine look down at the floor when I cue quiet. She’s looking for the treat.
- Closing Thoughts - Quiet as an Operant Behavior. After enough repetitions of pairing the Quiet cue with a treat, you should observe that upon giving the Quiet cue, the dog stops barking and eagerly anticipates (or scans) for delivery of a treat. At that point, you can move to using operant conditioning to reinforce that behavior. Give the quiet cue, observe silence of a short duration, then click then treat for silence.
Bark and Quiet as Paired Cues
Training Bark and Quiet together makes a lot of sense! Cue Bark, and once the dog barks, cue Quiet. When the dog is quiet, click then treat.
For dogs that find barking a reinforcing activity in itself, you can actually cue your dog to be quiet, and then after they have been quiet, reinforce them by cueing them to bark! Permission to bark is the reinforcer for quiet!
Go to your Mat or Crate.
We’ve already covered "Go To Your Mat". This exercise is extremely helpful for teaching proper door manners. If you dog is sensitive to the sound of knocking or the doorbell have your friend text you when they arrive. Then you can cue your dog to go to his mat and answer the door. Practice "Go To Your Mat" until you can reliably cue your dog from all parts of the house. Have a friend help by doing setups and knocking on the door. The same applies for teaching your dog to go to his crate. Both are excellent ways to manage your dog if they are uncomfortable with visitors.
Grab a Toy.
If your dog has a hard time staying on their mat because what they really want is to great visitors but they get too barky and exuberant you can teach them to grab a toy. This is a perfect example of teaching your dog a behaviour that is incompatible with the problem behavior that occurs. Your dog can’t bark if he has a toy in his mouth.
Exercise: Hear a knock - Grab a Toy
- Start with a game of fetch.
- When you dog is reliably going after the toy start to add the cue “take it”.
- Leave the house come back in and cue your dog to “take it” .
- Leave the house, knock, and cue your dog to “take it”.
- Repeat until you can open the door and your dog automatically grabs his toy.
- Make sure to have a designated spot for your dog’s toy so he doesn’t have to search for it
- Practice doing setups with a friend by having them come over and knock.
- Take it one step further and combine the cues "take it" and "go to your crate/mat" so your dog takes his toy and goes and lies down.
- Make sure you also reward your dog with a fun session with the toy. We want him to love grabbing his door when visitors come over.