** Voted by students as one of Udemy's outstanding instructors of 2014 **
'Bernie does it again'
... another brilliant course by one of the very best instructors on Udemy. (thanks Marie)
'Worthy of Ten Stars' (thanks Diane)
Learn the fundamental principles and advanced concepts of using off-camera flash to take stunning portraits. This is a very comprehensive, practical photography course that covers everything you need to know.
Just because there is enough light in a room or outside to take a photo, doesn't mean that it's great light....
Learn how to create beautiful light using small flashes.
A powerful skill at your fingertips
Advanced and professional photographers do not generally use any of the semi-automatic modes (e.g Aperture / Shutter Speed priority etc..) when shooting in a studio environment. This course will demonstrate why, and show you just how easy it is to use Manual modes for consistent exposures and how it can aid the learning process.
Content and Overview - Downloads are ENABLED for this course!
The course goes right back to basics, but also covers advanced topics. You'll learn about the equipment, what to buy and what not to buy if on a tight budget. It demonstrates how to put the gear together, how to modify it, and shows various ways of triggering the flashes, Exposure is covered in great details, with one video on each of the 5 aspects of exposure.
Come with me on these photo sessions, and watch as I talk through the camera and flash settings and take (mostly) great photos with (mostly) gorgeous models, using a fun teaching style.
A bonus video on product photography is included, a DIY setup that can provide spectacular results. Great for eBay or just making some money on the side.
Designed for beginners (although not complete beginners), through to enthusiasts and professionals, on completing this course you'll have the knowledge and confidence to start taking beautifully lit portraits that will wow your family and friends.
Modesty almost forbids me publishing some comments about my teaching style, taken from reviews of some of my other courses, but I overcame that, so here they are:-
Bernie is really easy to listen to, and his videos were really entertaining and kept you listening. (I also like his accent!)
Many online courses suffer from over prepared, monotonic boring voice overs but Bernie's style is a bit like having your mate round to show you how to do something. This even goes to leaving some bloopers in which makes it human and fun.
Bernie is a hoot! He knows his material, presents it well, and is witty to boot. It's a great combination in a teacher.
I love Bernie's approach. Such a great instructor,
Bernie is an excellent teacher and his enthusiasm for photography is contagious.
Bernie is a fantastic tutor,
Love it, love it, love it!!
Cameras and flashes - what do you need?
The chances are you already have some of the equipment you need, but even if you don't, it's not necessary to spend a small fortune, it can be done on quite a small budget. Speedlights in particular can be purchased at low cost, but what type of off-camera speedlight do you need.
After watching this video you will know if your camera and flash is suitable, and if not, what gear to to buy.
How to mount your flash onto a stand using a flash umbrella bracket.
In this video, I demonstrate how the flashes, stands and umbrellas all fit together. It's quite straightforward, but you're going to need a flash umbrella bracket to make sure the flash fits on the light stands along with either a shoot thorough or reflective umbrella.
In this video I go through each of the various ways to trigger off-camera flash, and there's a few of them, some more expensive than others! This video goes into detail but please take a look at the 'Triggering Summary' PDF document for a brief summary.
Shoot through umbrellas, softboxes, reflective umbrellas, grids, snoots and gobos. The generic term for these is 'Light Modifier', because they erm... modify the light.
This video describes them in details and points out some pros and cons for the type of off-camera flash photography that I'll be demonstrating later videos.
You may not be making the most of your large modifier, maybe it's not as large as you think! This lecture demonstrates the reason for this, and shows a simple solution.
In the context of off-camera flash, some light meters are commonly referred to as flash meters. But do you need one for this type of photography. Some would argue that you should always use them, others that they're antiquated in this digital age.
In this video, I offer you my opinion.
In this whole series of lectures, i'll only be using the Manual mode on both the camera and flash. No Aperture priority, no Shutter speed priority and no TTL.
Manual mode is easy to understand and do, and is another 'string to your bow' when it comes to exposure.
The aperture settings is one of the 5 aspects of off-camera flash exposure settings. Although it controls both the ambient and flash light, in the world of indoor off-camera flash, it's generally used mainly to control the flash exposure.
The overall exposure is controlled by the Aperture, the Shutter Speed and the ISO, flash to subject distance and flash power.
The shutter speed has no impact on the flash exposure because it's a very fast burst of light compared to shutter speeds which are much slower. So what does the shutter speed do? Well, it has a specific role to play when using flash.
When we increase the ISO, we increase our camera’s sensitivity to light, and so it becomes more sensitive to both the ambient light and the flash light together.
So how and when should you use it for off camera flash photography?
You can almost think of flash power as being like a domestic dimmer switch, except that instead of the light output changing smoothly like it does with a dimmer, the light output jumps up or down, by whatever power setting you’ve chosen.
You would think that if you moved the flash twice as far from the subject, that you would halve the light.
But you'd be wrong, in fact you'd lose a whole lot more light than that. This video explains in simple terms, the effect it has when you change the distance from flash to subject, especially on the background.
This lecture is from my other course, Become a Better Photographer - Part II
What is flash sync speed exactly, why is there a maximum sync speed, and what's the way around it?
Maybe you're already aware that your camera's shutter speed is limited to (usually) around 1/250th of a second when using flash. But why is that, and what happens if you ignore it, (assuming your camera allows you to ignore it?) There is a way round it using High Speed Sync, but it's not a perfect solution.
This film includes some focal plane shutter animation to explain in detail what it's all about.
Great results with a simple one-light setup, and you can get vastly different results by simply moving the light around the subject.
This lecture demonstrates the first steps needed in order to improve the look of the background.
Now that you've learnt how to control the light spill on the background, you can start thinking about lighting it.
You can easily change the look and feel of the background using readily available gels.
The dramatic type of light seen so far isn't suitable for everyone, here's how to flatter your subject a little by using a fill light.
Here's a great lighting setup for flattering your subject, commonly called Clam shell lighting
We've been using a quite soft light so far in these videos, but sometimes you can get a more 'edgier' feel using a hard light
The patterns of light and shadow on your subjects face will change depending on the position and height of the light and also the angle of the face.
You can make terrific looking backgrounds by firing a flash through various objects that find lying around the house This lecture demonstrates some great examples.
Sometimes, the less you light something, the more interesting it becomes. Honeycomb grid attachments for speedlights are great because they produce a small shaft of light. They can give a really cool look, terrific for a little extra creativity.
Shooting outside with off-camera flash requires a little more thought than when shooting inside. With off camera flash exposure indoors, you usually (but not always) want to avoid including any of the tungsten or fluorescent ambient light, outdoors you usually want to balance the ambient light with that of the flash.
With careful use of off-camera flash, you can get dramatic images by using the sky as the background. When using manual triggers, this is much easier to do when light level are lower, i.e dusk or early morning.
Outdoor photo session at dusk
Outdoor sessions are much easier when you shoot at dusk or in a shaded area because the lower light levels allow more flexibility regarding wider apertures.
Not only are larger aperture easier on your flashgun, but they are great for blurring the background.
On a bright day, typical exposure settings for off camera flash might be 1/250th at f8 or f11, ISO 100, so at your maximum sync speed it's impossible under normal circumstances to shoot with wide apertures in order to blur the background or do selective focusing.
There a couple of solutions, neither is perfect, but they do work. you can use either High Speed Sync (HSS) or a Neutral Density filter. There are pros and cons of each and this video explains them, I also carry out a simple experiment to compare the two solutions.
Demonstration of the benefits of High Speed Sync
So far in these videos, i've been using manual triggers, and they work just great. However, they restrict you to the maximum sync speed of your camera, and that becomes a problem when shooting outside in bright conditions. In bright conditions at your max sync speed, you're forced to shoot at small apertures like f11, but sometimes it's great to be able to blur the background using wider apertures.
If you've watched some videos on my other courses you'll know I like to use graphic or grungy or backgrounds, here's the first of several shoots using these type of backgrounds
Another idea for creating great backgrounds, this time it's the use of graffiti, here I use High Speed Sync to blur the background
I just love these grungy backgrounds, especially when you can throw them out of focus, which I've done here using High Speed Sync.
Also, I tried a little experiment with blue gels, I'll leave it up to you to decide whether it worked!!
This video describes an easy to do method of taking professional product photos on a budget. Get terrific results that belie the nature of the method used.
** Voted by students as one of Udemy's outstanding instructors of 2014 **
Bernie is a professional photographer based in the UK, and has been passionate about photography ever since his parents bought him his first camera when he was just 11 years old (a Kodak Brownie 127)!
He's qualified as a photographer to 'Associate' level with both the MPA (Master Photographers Association), and the SWPP (Society of Wedding and Portrait Photographers) in the UK.
Bernie loves sharing his passion for photography, and students really enjoy his fun teaching style which has earned him over 100 five star reviews. These entertaining and informative films will demonstrate, without blinding you with science, how you can be a better photographer, taking more creative and dramatic photos that will wow your friends and family.
He is in demand as a speaker to other professionals and to beginner and keen amateurs at camera clubs... he's also an occasional guest speaker on cruise ships.