This course is an excellent sequel to the Designing For 3D Printing with Fusion 360 course by Vladimir Mariano. We learn how to tackle a multi-part design by taking advantage of using components and other powerful design tools in Fusion 360. We will design an LED tea light that functions as a mechanical switch and can be used to light up our other 3d prints. It's an excellent example of using 3d printing for practical and functional designs.
At the end of this course you will have gained the design skills and confidence to take a multi-part design from concept to 3d printed prototype.
We will cover many sketching and modeling concepts and also go through some best practices when designing for 3d printing such tolerances needed for a snug fit when assembling two or more parts.
I will guide you through easy to follow step by step instructions as we create a rewarding model.
Besides our 3d printed parts we will only need an led and a coin cell battery for this build. Below are the links for the parts discussed in the video.
LED - Color Changing
Coin Cell Battery - CR2032
A brief explanation of how the model will function in being able to turn the LED on and off.
Design more efficient and stay better organized by taking advantage of components in your multi-part designs.
Modify preferences in order to change the default orientation to z up instead of y up. Having proper orientation in your models guarantees that they print correctly when sending to a 3d printer.
In this lecture we modify our preferences to allow the sketch color to be based on whether our sketch is fully constrained or not.
Although we will not be printing the battery it is beneficial to create a model of it so that we can make sure things line up correctly in our assembly.
We begin with the top component. We will obtain our shape by creating a sketch and revolving. Revolving a sketch is a very effective and efficient way to obtain a cylindrical shape.
We create a sketch on top of our part in order to extrude the holes and groves for our led fit. An effective way of making the grooves is by using the pipe command.
Using an offset plane we draw the required sketch to allow us to extrude holes create pipes on the side of our cylinder.
We extrude a cutout at the bottom of our part. I show how to reference the sketch to determine the correct distance to make the extrusion.
We use the arc tool and the mirror tool to create a shape that will allow us to extrude a bumpout in our cylinder that will be critical in forcing our battery to make an electrical connection. We apply some fillets in the end to smooth our shape.
Since our bottom part is also cylindrical, the best way to approach the shape is to create a sketch and revolve the sketch just like the top part.
Using our existing sketch and the revolve tool, we create the bumpouts. This time instead of revolving a full 360 degrees we give the revolve a specific angle. We then mirror the revolve in order to get the same shape on the opposite side.
Using the offset command we create a sketch and extrude it a couple millimeters. This part will serve the purpose of guiding our battery to one side to make an electrical connection and will also serve as an insulator to prevent the battery from coming in contact with the led when the switch is turned to the off position.
Now on to our final component, the cover. We could have approached this design by also creating a sketch and revolving it but I chose instead to sketch a circle and extruding it.
After printing this part I noticed that the fit was a bit too tight so we go back to the sketch and amend the radius.
We need a way of securing our cover to the top component so that the cover does not spin. By extruding a little "key" into the cover we can line it up with an opposite extrusion on the top component so that both lock into place once fitted together.
We sketch on the cover and extrude little on / off indicators so that we know which direction to turn the knob.
We sketch and extrude a slot on our top component that will mate with the extrusion we made on the cover component.
We go back and add an arrow indicator on the bottom component to show the position of the knob and let the user know whether it is point to the on or off position.
After printing it appears that the overhang is a bit much and can sometimes lead to improper adhesion of the layers so we go back and add a fillet for a smoother transition.
An important concept to keep in mind when designing for 3D printing is the relation between your wall thickness and your extrusion width. In this lecture I talk about some important things to consider when designing.
I demonstrate how to assemble all the parts together to create your own led tea light.
Congratulations on completing this course. Remember to download and share your certificate and leave a rating if you haven't.
Vladimir Mariano is cofounder and president of the Fairfield County Makers’ Guild, an independent makerspace in Norwalk, CT and founder of CT Robotics Academy. He teaches 3D printing and design at the makerspace as well as electronics and programming classes. Vladimir also teaches several maker related classes at local libraries and schools and was the coach for a local robotics team. He has a degree in Geology from West Virginia University and a RobotC Programming Instructor Certification from Carnegie Mellon Robotics Academy.