Fashion Design through Patternmaking - The Sloper
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Fashion Design through Patternmaking - The Sloper

The Sloper is the foundation to flat pattern clothing design. Begin at the beginning and cut your own custom patterns.
4.1 (6 ratings)
Instead of using a simple lifetime average, Udemy calculates a course's star rating by considering a number of different factors such as the number of ratings, the age of ratings, and the likelihood of fraudulent ratings.
123 students enrolled
Last updated 12/2014
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  • 2.5 hours on-demand video
  • Full lifetime access
  • Access on mobile and TV
  • Certificate of Completion
What Will I Learn?
  • Gain a better understanding of how two dimensional shapes translate to three dimensional garments
  • Learn how to use drafted guidelines for draping on the form
  • Use drafting guidelines transfered to fabric to drape the form.
View Curriculum
  • You will need large format paper, paper scissors, pencils, erasure, colored markers, fabric scissors, straight pins and muslin.

This course will focus on the flat pattern method of fashion design. We will be making patterns for non-strech garments. Designing clothing in two dimensions requires a designer to drape a 3 dimensional foundational garment that becomes a working sloper when deconstructed and presented as 2 dimensional shapes. In this class you will learn to drape a custom foundation for any body. After the garment is draped we will correct the shapes and create a perfected sloper. Draping a Sloper is a pre requisite toward fully understanding how patterns work. Moving forward in the course we will use our slopers to explore the three major concepts of pattern making. 1. How to create shape. 2. How to create volume. 3. How to cut to the body.

Who is the target audience?
  • The course is the foundation of cutting garments, how to make patterns that work and how to see the relation ship between the 2 dimensional flat pattern and finished 3 dimensional garment.
  • Students who will benefit from this class include... Home sewers who use commercial patterns and would like more information about how patterns are created. Future younger students who may not be at the college level. Fashion enthusiasts who may not have formal fashion education in their communities. Students who may want tot study fashion but it may not be able to fit it into their formal academic course load. Cos-players and theatrical performers.
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Curriculum For This Course
57 Lectures
The Bodice - Parts one and two of the FIVE piece sloper
3 Lectures 02:36

Welcome to the course. This course will be composed of there main elements. 1. the Bodice, 2. the Skit, and 3. the Sleeve. You will become familiar with the drafting and draping procedures required to create custom slopers.

Preview 00:09

For this project you will need Pencils, Erasure, Rulers, Armhole Curve, Markers, Paper Scissors, Fabric Scissors, Tape Measure and Muslin.

Preview 00:36

Before we begin
2 Lectures 01:47

Measurements are required before we can plot any guidelines. Learn to measure the front for length and width of your form or subject.

Preview 01:05

Measurements are required before we can plot any guidelines. Learn to measure the back for length and width of your form or subject.

Preview 00:42
Bodice guidelines
2 Lectures 02:30

To best help you understand the drafting/draping process we will begin on paper (two dimensions) by drafting the guidelines we will need to control our drape. Learning these guidelines is most important because guidelines are used for every part of the sloper. Guidelines are also important because they transferable, they apply to any form or client you will work with.

Preview 01:57

Draft guidelines for the back pattern.

Preview 00:33
Prepare the Fabric
3 Lectures 06:40

Learn how to find and rip the vertical length of your bodice draping fabric.

Preview 01:45

At this point we will repeat the guideline drawings and apply them to our ripped fabric pieces.

Mark fabric with guidelines
4 Lectures 20:28

We will revisit the bodice drape on the form before we begin to drape.

Introduction to the drape

Prepare the form by creating a bridge from bust point to bust point so that our drape will not fall into the cleavage of our form or model.

Prepare the form

Starting at center front neck pin the prepared fabric to form along the center front line. Secure the bust point on the form in relation to our guideline marking. Then continue to drape the fabric to find the seams lines and our basic bodice shape.

Drape Bodice front

Continuing on... Start at center back neck, pin the prepared fabric to form along the center back line. Secure the fabric across the shoulder HBL (horizontal balance line). Then continue to drape the fabric to find the darts and seams lines that make our basic back bodice shape.

Drape Bodice back
Truing your drape, Intro to drafting
5 Lectures 12:25

Here we begin the truing process. Take the marked draping pieces and correct the shapes so that we will have strong lines that fit well together. In this step we will adjust the side and shoulder seams.

Adjust side and shoulder seams

Correct and draw in the bust dart.

Bust dart

Correct and draw in the shoulder and lumbar darts.

Back darts

Adjust the armhole and draw in additional ease at the side seam to prepare the the bodice for a sleeve.

Adjust armhole and draft new side seam with added ease

Close out the bust and lumbar darts to correct the waist line of the bodice.

True the waistline
1 Lecture 01:25

let's review. Before we transfer our corrected information to the planning sheet where we first established our guidelines this recap will look at where we started and what we are working with after our draping efforts.

Recap of our work so far
Drafting and Test fit
5 Lectures 18:53

Now that we have draped and corrected our shapes lets commit the information to our planning sheet. We will lay the fabric under our drafting paper and trace our new lines.

*If you are working with paper that you can not see through. Lay the fabric on top of your guidelines and use a stiletto/tracing wheel to transfer the new lines. You can also use a push pin and make a series of punctures around the shapes marking your paper. Then connect those punctures to draw your new lines on your planning sheet.

Transfer draped information to the planning sheet

Add seam allowance to the pattern shapes before we cut and assemble the shapes. Basic seam allowances are as follows. 1/4 inch at all faced edges. 1/2 inch at major construction seams, 1 inch at side seams for additional ease for on the body alterations.

Side bar: Intro to seam allowance

Prepare the shapes for the test fit. For this instructional I will use pins to secure my darts and seams to create the shape my bodice will take. I chose to pin pep for the sake of time but also because wanted to be able to release the pinning to easily return to the flat pattern.

*If you choose to sew up your test fit use a long stitch length in case you need to deconstruct your bodice and return to two dimensions.

Prepare for test fit

Place the assembled garment on the form and look at your work.

  1. Do the guidelines rest where they should?
  2. Hows the fit at the side seam at the armhole?
  3. Is there one inch of ease in the circumference out the body at the underarm?
Test fit

On the planning sheet make the final correction to the armhole.

  1. Measure the front and back armholes.
  2. Determine the total length.
  3. Divide the total length so that the front arm hole measures 1/2 inch less than the back arm hole. (Example. front arm hole equals 8 3/4 inches, back armhole equals 8 3/4 inches. 8 3/4 + 8 3/4 = 17 1/2 inches. Divide the length into two numbers so that one number is 1/2 inch longer than the other. In this case our new armholes equal 8 inches for the front and 9 1/2 inches for the back.)
  4. Redraw your new armhole lengths on your planning sheet.
Balance the armhole on the planning sheet
Final review
1 Lecture 00:51

Final review of the our bodice.

Closing review
The Skirt -Parts three and four of the FIVE piece sloper
2 Lectures 00:31

Now we will move on to drape and draft our skirt pattern.

Welcome to Class

Here are the supplies you will need to complete this task.

Supplies List
13 More Sections
About the Instructor
Prof. Anthony Riojas
3.9 Average rating
30 Reviews
414 Students
3 Courses
Fashion Design through Patternmaking

I love to make patterns, plain and simple. As a creative person I have explored many modes of expression, Metal smithing, Fine Art, Photography, Public Access T.V. production, Theater, Stage Craft, Lighting design, Sound production, DJing, Ballroom dancing, Clowning and Flow but my favorite is Fashion Design, more specifically pattern drafting for clothing. It's just fun for me to look at something in a magazine in 2-d knowing that the model and garment is in 3-d and thinking about how it breaks down in 2-d as a flat pattern.

Flat pattern design is one of the most important skills a garment designer can acquire. Without the skill of drafting patterns you can not translate sketched ideas into reality. Understanding cut simplifies the design process when thinking in terms of the 3-d architecture you want to achieve with your garments or collection of garments. Silhouette (Line) and Form are 3-d elements that fashion designers and critics always refer to when describing a group of clothing but it is all built on the 2-d plain before it can be worn.

As for my credentials, I have five years experience teaching pattern drafting by hand in the Community College classroom. Having moved on from my post at the College I am now free to share my knowledge with you, here on UDEMY.

Thank you for investigating my course and Ill see you in class.