This course will focus on the flat pattern method of fashion design. We will be making patterns for non-strech garments. Designing clothing in two dimensions requires a designer to drape a 3 dimensional foundational garment that becomes a working sloper when deconstructed and presented as 2 dimensional shapes. In this class you will learn to drape a custom foundation for any body. After the garment is draped we will correct the shapes and create a perfected sloper. Draping a Sloper is a pre requisite toward fully understanding how patterns work. Moving forward in the course we will use our slopers to explore the three major concepts of pattern making. 1. How to create shape. 2. How to create volume. 3. How to cut to the body.
Welcome to the course. This course will be composed of there main elements. 1. the Bodice, 2. the Skit, and 3. the Sleeve. You will become familiar with the drafting and draping procedures required to create custom slopers.
For this project you will need Pencils, Erasure, Rulers, Armhole Curve, Markers, Paper Scissors, Fabric Scissors, Tape Measure and Muslin.
Measurements are required before we can plot any guidelines. Learn to measure the front for length and width of your form or subject.
To best help you understand the drafting/draping process we will begin on paper (two dimensions) by drafting the guidelines we will need to control our drape. Learning these guidelines is most important because guidelines are used for every part of the sloper. Guidelines are also important because they transferable, they apply to any form or client you will work with.
We will revisit the bodice drape on the form before we begin to drape.
Prepare the form by creating a bridge from bust point to bust point so that our drape will not fall into the cleavage of our form or model.
Starting at center front neck pin the prepared fabric to form along the center front line. Secure the bust point on the form in relation to our guideline marking. Then continue to drape the fabric to find the seams lines and our basic bodice shape.
Continuing on... Start at center back neck, pin the prepared fabric to form along the center back line. Secure the fabric across the shoulder HBL (horizontal balance line). Then continue to drape the fabric to find the darts and seams lines that make our basic back bodice shape.
Here we begin the truing process. Take the marked draping pieces and correct the shapes so that we will have strong lines that fit well together. In this step we will adjust the side and shoulder seams.
Correct and draw in the bust dart.
Correct and draw in the shoulder and lumbar darts.
Adjust the armhole and draw in additional ease at the side seam to prepare the the bodice for a sleeve.
Close out the bust and lumbar darts to correct the waist line of the bodice.
let's review. Before we transfer our corrected information to the planning sheet where we first established our guidelines this recap will look at where we started and what we are working with after our draping efforts.
Now that we have draped and corrected our shapes lets commit the information to our planning sheet. We will lay the fabric under our drafting paper and trace our new lines.
*If you are working with paper that you can not see through. Lay the fabric on top of your guidelines and use a stiletto/tracing wheel to transfer the new lines. You can also use a push pin and make a series of punctures around the shapes marking your paper. Then connect those punctures to draw your new lines on your planning sheet.
Add seam allowance to the pattern shapes before we cut and assemble the shapes. Basic seam allowances are as follows. 1/4 inch at all faced edges. 1/2 inch at major construction seams, 1 inch at side seams for additional ease for on the body alterations.
Prepare the shapes for the test fit. For this instructional I will use pins to secure my darts and seams to create the shape my bodice will take. I chose to pin pep for the sake of time but also because wanted to be able to release the pinning to easily return to the flat pattern.
*If you choose to sew up your test fit use a long stitch length in case you need to deconstruct your bodice and return to two dimensions.
Place the assembled garment on the form and look at your work.
On the planning sheet make the final correction to the armhole.
Final review of the our bodice.
Now we will move on to drape and draft our skirt pattern.
Here are the supplies you will need to complete this task.
I love to make patterns, plain and simple. As a creative person I have explored many modes of expression, Metal smithing, Fine Art, Photography, Public Access T.V. production, Theater, Stage Craft, Lighting design, Sound production, DJing, Ballroom dancing, Clowning and Flow but my favorite is Fashion Design, more specifically pattern drafting for clothing. It's just fun for me to look at something in a magazine in 2-d knowing that the model and garment is in 3-d and thinking about how it breaks down in 2-d as a flat pattern.
Flat pattern design is one of the most important skills a garment designer can acquire. Without the skill of drafting patterns you can not translate sketched ideas into reality. Understanding cut simplifies the design process when thinking in terms of the 3-d architecture you want to achieve with your garments or collection of garments. Silhouette (Line) and Form are 3-d elements that fashion designers and critics always refer to when describing a group of clothing but it is all built on the 2-d plain before it can be worn.
As for my credentials, I have five years experience teaching pattern drafting by hand in the Community College classroom. Having moved on from my post at the College I am now free to share my knowledge with you, here on UDEMY.
Thank you for investigating my course and Ill see you in class.