
Switching your camera from its automatic settings to full manual control will help to take your photography to the next level.
The topics covered include:
This course will increase your photo success rate in tricky situations which you'll be able to handle with ease.
Module 1 is all about the basics of exposure:
These are the core skills that once mastered will remain with you for ever.
Exposure - or how bright/dark and image is. The three factors that affect are...
At the end of this lecture you'll understand what each one is, and why you need it.
Cameras have lots of 'automatic' modes, but they're all based around the four basic settings of:
This lecture will outline the differences between them, and why each may be useful to you.
How does your camera know what exposure to set? This lecture will cover...
You'll learn through practical demonstration why your cameras automatic modes can be fooled.
How do the three factors that determine exposure interact with each other?
You'll learn about the linear way in which aperture, shutter speed, and iso work so that you'll be able to change them in conjunction with each other to maintain a correct exposure level.
A practical demonstration of exposure compensation and how it can be used to improve automatic modes, then a switch over to full manual mode! You'll see how there are several ways to achieve the correct exposure using different combinations of aperture, shutter and iso settings on your camera.
You may have seen the 'histogram' feature on your camera and wondered what it's all about! Well, wonder no more - This lecture will show you what it's for and how, together with something called 'flashing highlights', it can be used to check your exposure in tricky lighting situations.
A slideshow summary of the main points covered in Module 1 - Exposure
Getting the exposure right is important.... but you've also got to make sure that the right parts of your photo are as sharp, or as blurred, as you want. This module will show you how!
Why do photographers need so many lenses? What does focal length mean?
At the end of this lecture you'll know why you choose different lenses for different situations and how the 'focal length' relates to different angles of view.
Autofocus is great! But there's different settings... so which should you use?
At the end of this lecture you'll understand the different settings, and know which to choose for each photo.
How much of your photo is sharp? How much do you want to be sharp? That's the Depth of Field.
It's a powerful tool which enables you to draw attention to, or away from, different areas of your photo.
At the end of this lecture you'll understand how Depth of Field can be used creatively when shooting.
Three factors affect depth of field:
At the end of this lecture you'll know which factors you can control, and their effect on Depth of Field.
The Hyperfocal distance is a simple, but often misunderstood, concept that once mastered is an incredibly useful tool when trying to maximise sharpness within an image. This simple slideshow graphic explains the concept in a way that makes it accessible to all photographers.
A practical demonstration of how Depth of Field can be controlled by selecting different apertures.
At the end of this lecture you'll understand exactly what a different the choice of aperture can make to the Depth of Field in your photos. You'll understand the zone of sharpness and how it can be positioned within your photos by selecting the correct aperture and focus point.
A slideshow summary of the main points in Module 2 - Lens Choice and Controlling Sharpness
Light! It's all about light! This module will show you how to control light, particularly in a backlit situation when your camera can easily be fooled.
You'll also learn how to set the correct white balance on your camera to achieve the result that you want.
Balancing light in a backlit situation is a skill thats vital to learn. This lecture is a practical demonstration of how to control the light using a reflector to achieve a balanced exposure using backlighting from a window.
You've probably seen professional photographers using their flashguns outdoors, and wondered why. Chances are, they were using a technique called fill flash, or fill-in flash. This is a practical demonstration of how to use fill flash when your subject is illuminated from behind.
Why do colours change in your photos when you use different lighting? It's all to do with the white balance setting on your camera. This is a practical demonstration of how you can match the white balance setting to the light source, and what happens to the colour when you don't!
A slideshow summary of the main points covered in Module 3 - Balancing Light and Colour
Designed for photographers who are using their camera's 'automatic' settings and are ready to progress to full manual control. You may be just starting out, in which case it’s a great idea to learn all about manual skills straight away - or you may have been using your camera for a while and getting great results on automatic ninety percent of the time. This course will help you fix that elusive ten percent that’s not currently working out the way you want!
The lectures in this course are clear, concise, and short! They're designed to give you maximum information in the shortest possible time - for people who want to improve their photography in a short space of time.
You’re going to learn how to set shutter speed, aperture, ISO and white balance as well as how to choose the correct lens and settings to control sharpness.
You'll finish this course with a much greater understanding of exposure and the skills to override your camera's automatic settings to improve your images.
Main areas covered by this course:
Relationship between shutter/aperture/ISO
Light readings - Incident and reflected
18% grey card readings
Depth of field and how to control it
Why the ‘auto’ settings on your camera sometimes fail
Lighting - Backlit subjects, reflectors, fill in flash.
When is auto best?
Colour temperature and White balance settings
Focus – manual or auto?
How to ‘get it right’ in camera rather than photoshop.