SIRIUS® Dog Training Academy - Day 4 of 4
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SIRIUS® Dog Training Academy - Day 4 of 4

Day 4: Puppy Classes & Home Training
0.0 (0 ratings)
Course Ratings are calculated from individual students’ ratings and a variety of other signals, like age of rating and reliability, to ensure that they reflect course quality fairly and accurately.
20 students enrolled
Created by Ian Dunbar
Published 9/2012
English
English [Auto]
Price: $29.99
30-Day Money-Back Guarantee
This course includes
  • 5.5 hours on-demand video
  • 4 downloadable resources
  • Full lifetime access
  • Access on mobile and TV
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What you'll learn
  • Learn how to start, structure and run classes for training puppies safely and profitably
  • Learn appropriate exercises for puppy training classes
  • Learn how to prevent the most common behavior problems
  • Learn how to structure an off-leash puppy training class
Requirements
  • There are no requirements to take this course
Description

For a limited time use the Promo Code "I Love Dogs" to save $10 on your registration

Day 4: Puppy Classes and Home Training

Dr. Dunbar taught the world's very first off-leash puppy socialization and training classes and he has been perfecting the SIRIUS Dog Training business model for the past 30 years. If you are a dog training professional, or you're thinking of becoming one, this is the course you simply must take.

The SIRIUS Academy is a structured and comprehensive course on how to run a successful dog training business. This course cuts to the chase and focuses on the essential information that you absolutely need to know in order to effectively teach people to train dogs as quickly, easily and enjoyably as possible.

Day 4 of the Academy consists of 6+ hours of video lecture and two free eBooks. It does not include all the notes that come with the full 4 day Academy. It has been approved for 6 CEUs by the CCPDT & IAABC.

The full Academy consists of 4 days of video lecture, 6+ hours each, as well as substantial notes, including notes for the lectures, a Behavior Problem Solving Matrix, and the complete SIRIUS Syllabi for Puppy 1, Puppy 2, and Adult 1 classes, with week-by-week-schedules and minute-by-minute class notes.

“Whether you're new to dog training and wondering how to get started in the business, or you've been doing it for ages (like me) and you're looking for some fresh ideas to super-charge your business, this is the very best place to get what you need. I found myself taking detailed notes for some long-term changes, and then also jotting down little nuggets of gold to go home and immediately implement into my classes or business practices…

This four-day event, and yes, you MUST attend all four days, offers the attendee who already has some hands-on experience with dogs everything they need to start up their own classes. Those of us who've already been running our own classes come away with many new ideas for classroom games and exercises for both puppies and adult dogs, PLUS a comprehensive, tested plan to measure and increase our success, and to market ourselves (which we could all use help with).

I am so excited to make some changes! Thanks so much for everything!"


- Michelle Douglas, CPDT-KA, CDBC – Past President of the APDT

Who this course is for:
  • Professional dog trainers and anyone thinking about becoming a dog trainer
Course content
Expand all 10 lectures 10:35:51
+ Notes
4 lectures 00:00
SIRIUS Academy Slides
9 pages
Everything about dog training is easier if you start it earlier in the puppy's development, especially socialization and housetraining.  The vast majority of behavior problems in adult dogs could have been easily prevented during puppyhood.  These behavior problems are often the reason dogs end up abandoned at shelters.

That's why we make BEFORE & AFTER You Get Your Puppy available as a free download.  This PDF file can actually be customized with your business contact information and then distributed freely as a valuable promotional tool.  You'll be promoting good puppy-raising practices and thereby helping to keep dogs out of shelters, all while promoting your own business.

BEFORE You Get Your Puppy
by Dr. Ian Dunbar

When you choose a new puppy, you need to meet six developmental deadlines before your puppy is just five months old. If your puppy fails to meet any of these deadlines, he will never achieve his full potential and will be playing ‘behavioral catch-up’ for the rest of his life. BEFORE You Get Your Puppy covers the first three developmental deadlines covering the period from puppy selection to your puppy’s first week at home. The last three developmental deadlines that your puppy needs to meet before he is six months old are described in a second book — AFTER You Get Your Puppy

1st Developmental Deadline — Your Education About Puppy Education
You need to complete your education about puppy education before you search for a puppy. You need to know how to select a good puppy and how puppies work. Selecting a puppy is similar to buying a car: Do lots of research beforehand and "test drive" a wide variety, especially including the one you intend to buy. But first, you need to learn how to drive. Specifically you need to know how to teach your puppy: where to eliminate, what to chew, when to bark, where to dig, to sit when greeting people, to walk calmly on-leash, to settle down and shush when requested, to inhibit biting behavior, to enjoy spending time at home alone, and to thoroughly enjoy the company of other dogs and people — especially strangers and children

2nd Developmental Deadline — Evaluating Your Prospective Puppy’s Progress
Before you choose your puppy, you need to know how to assess your prospective puppy’s current socialization and educational status. Regardless of breed or breeding, if socialization, errorless housetraining, and basic manners are not well underway by eight weeks of age, the puppy is already developmentally retarded.

3rd Developmental Deadline — Errorless Housetraining & Chewtoy-Training
Make certain that an errorless housetraining and chewtoy-training program is instituted from the very first day your puppy comes home.
BEFORE You Get Your Puppy
104 pages
Everything about dog training is easier if you start it earlier in the puppy's development, especially socialization and housetraining.  The vast majority of behavior problems in adult dogs could have been easily prevented during puppyhood.  These behavior problems are often the reason dogs end up abandoned at shelters.

That's why we make BEFORE & AFTER You Get Your Puppy available as a free download.  This PDF file can actually be customized with your business contact information and then distributed freely as a valuable promotional tool.  You'll be promoting good puppy-raising practices and thereby helping to keep dogs out of shelters, all while promoting your own business.


AFTER You Get Your Puppy covers the last three developmental deadlines that your puppy needs to meet before he is six months old.

4th Developmental Deadline — Socializing Your Puppy to People

Your Most Urgent Priority is to socialize your puppy to a wide variety of people, especially children, men, and strangers, before he is twelve weeks old. Well-socialized puppies grow up to be wonderful companions, whereas antisocial dogs are difficult, time-consuming, and potentially dangerous. As a rule of thumb, your puppy needs to meet at least one hundred people before he is three months old. Since your puppy is still too young to venture out to dog parks and sidewalks, you’ll need to start inviting people to your home right away.

5th Developmental Deadline — Teaching Bite Inhibition

Your Most Important Priority is that your puppy learns to inhibit the force of his bites and develop a "soft mouth" before he is eighteen weeks old. Whenever a dog bites a person, or fights with another dog, the single most important prognostic factor is the degree of bite inhibition and hence, the likelihood and seriousness of injury. Accidents happen. Someone may tread on the dog’s paw, or a child may trip over the dog while he’s gnawing a bone. A dog may snap and lunge at a person when hurt or frightened, but if the dog has well-established bite inhibition, it is unlikely the dog’s teeth will puncture, or even touch the skin.

6th Developmental Deadline — Continuing Socialization in The World at Large
The Most Enjoyable Priority of dog ownership is to introduce your well-socialized puppy to the world at large. Your dog will only remain sociable and confident if he continues to meet and greet at least three unfamiliar people and three unfamiliar dogs every day. Meeting the same people and dogs over and over is not sufficient. Your dog needs to practice meeting, greeting, and getting along with strangers, not simply getting along with old friends. Regular walks with your dog are as essential as they are enjoyable.
AFTER You Get Your Puppy
156 pages
+ Video Lectures
6 lectures 05:34:51

Before you start a puppy class it is a good idea to have a private consultation with your new clients in the home so you can assess their home set-up and make sure they are house training and feeding their puppy properly. Puppy-proof the house and add enrichment for their puppy to keep them active while they’re at home on their own.

Make sure that you discuss bite inhibition at this time and explain that it is OK to bite. The more the puppy bites as a puppy the safer he will be as an adult. Don't stop frequency before decreasing force. Mouthing is essential but only on hands and never on clothing, which is not able to feel the amount of force and give the appropriate feedback. Explain to your clients the importance of beginning a socialization schedule right away. Their puppy needs to meet lots of people before they even take a puppy class. 

Now the puppy is ready for class. Owners will never forget puppy class and as the trainer you have to be great and have fun and smile. Make sure your clients are having fun. You have to be a good leader and it has to be a jolly place. Tell every dog you love them. Always greet people when they come in and hug them on the way out. Talk to all the puppies and get the puppies off-leash the whole time.

Make sure you are looking at all the puppies in your puppy class and looking for early signs of problems so that you can address them before they start. Prevention is key. If you can nip a problem in the bud you should pat yourself on the back, because you just saved a puppy and increased their quality of life. 

Preview 58:30

You should get insurance before you teach a class. Be very careful because anyone can sue you at any time. Make it a happy place to be and then they won't want to sue you.  Deal with complaints right away.

The most common problem in a puppy class is to have a bully and a fearful dog. Fearfulness and bullying must be addressed immediately. Both situations can be devastating for that dog’s long-term quality of life, unless you deal with it now.

Fearful dogs are suffering unnecessarily.  It’s as if they were in a metal box covered with snakes and spiders and rats, suspended 300 ft in the air, naked in the dark and they have to give public speeches everyday of their lives.  Don’t let another day go by where they are left to live with anxiety.

Bullies are usually just pups with an over-the-top style of play and they need to learn how to act appropriately with other dogs. If they don’t learn these skills they’re going to get to go on fewer walks and enjoy less time off-leash because their owners will be worried about them hurting another dog.  When talking to the bully puppy give lots of praise and reprimand over-the-top behavior. Be insistent. If that doesn’t work bring them into your Puppy 2 class and the bully will then be bullied by safe and reliable older dogs.  This can have an immediate and profound effect on temperament.

Everyone is biased against reactive dogs, but reactivity can be a good thing because it’s the only way to learn about a dog’s bite inhibition. Why do puppies have needle-sharp teeth? To learn bite inhibition. When a puppy bites it hurts, giving you a chance to communicate that they used too much pressure. If a puppy never mouths then they don’t learn bite inhibition and they become potentially more dangerous in the future.  Similarly, until you’ve seen a dog react you don’t know what their bite inhibition is like.  If a dog has bitten on multiple occasions but never caused real damage, you can be fairly confident that they have solid bite inhibition, and while you have a problem that needs to be addressed, it is a manageable problem that is not very dangerous.  If you have a dog that has never bitten, you don’t know how much damage they will inflict if they ever do bite, so you have an unknown level of danger.

Day 4 Video 2/6
59:15

Puppies should be 12-18 weeks on the first week of class. The most common argument for why this should not happen is concern about spreading Parvo. Some people believe that the risk of contracting Parvo is significant enough that it makes puppy classes unsafe, but it is possible to maintain a very safe puppy class. The real danger comes from the bottom of your shoes. And there are many riskier places than a regularly disinfected puppy class room, like for example a vet’s parking lot and waiting room. 

In a puppy class, keep everyone active and training the whole time. Everything you say is an instruction on what to do next. Don't lecture and keep demonstrations to a minimum. People should do the training themselves. If people can't train in your class they can't train at home. Make sure they do it correctly in front of you. They should be handling their own dogs and all the other dogs the whole time. 

Quantify progress. Use the exam in your notes to test if puppy classes worked. Test week one and again on week six and plot the progress and you will see that puppy classes work wonders. You can also look specifically at the changes in each behavior and the response reliability between hand signals and verbal commands. 

There is no research in dog training as to what are the quickest ways to train a behavior. We need a base for behaviors on how long it takes to accomplish a behavior and have reliability. A study you can do is time and trials to criteria. Count trials or repetitions before the dog completes a behavior after the initial command. Then how long does it take to get their response reliability up to a criteria. Be sure to explain your techniques.

Solicit owner evaluations for your classes and always work to improve your classes. Find ways to make training more fun, quicker and easier. Pay attention to your evaluations. These evaluations are usually based on whether or not they like you. You want to be loved by your clients so they keep bringing their dogs to you and recommending you to their friends, and you want your classes to produce huge increases in response reliability, so your clients have control over their dogs and enjoy a high quality of life together. 

Day 4 Video 3/6
48:02

Your syllabus for each class should reflect the most common behavior and training problems. List them all in rank order of importance and there you have your syllabus. Which behaviors are urgent, which ones are dangerous? Define what is urgent and dangerous. Which training techniques cause owners most difficulty and what are the questions most dog owners have? Cover everything you think is important.

In your notes you have a list of some very important things to address in class. Bite inhibition, socialization, household etiquette, being home alone, sitting, settling and bullying are all great things to tackle. Make sure they are off-leash the whole time. Play lots of games and give out prizes or ribbons. Discuss the Emergency Sit and how to get reliable Downs. The highway recall is a good exercise. And make sure there’s plenty of time for handling, gentling and desensitization.

Day 4 Video 4/6
52:26

In a puppy class you will have puppies off-leash, so how do you practice heeling? Following exercises are a fun way to keep your puppy by your side so you can eventually turn it into a heel behavior. Engage your dog so that they want to follow you and interact with you on their walk. A very important skill for owners to learn is how to control their dogs on their walks. Teach them to walk faster and slower, closer and farther. This is done by speeding up and slowing down your own pace. Take back control of the walk, and don't let your dog walk you.

Walking on trails is very similar. Train your dog to follow you on trails by using lots of games and exercises. Change direction often or play hide and seek if they get too far ahead. These games teach them to pay attention to where you are.

Open field follow is very difficult. The key is to walk away from the dog no matter what, and never follow them. Change direction constantly. Don't accommodate for your dog. Do this correctly and you’ll see a bungee cord effect, where as you move away from your dog, they snap back towards you.  Practice this often and you’ll and up with a dog that is always paying attention to you and ready to follow your every (unpredictable) move.

Day 4 Video 5/6
46:42

There are very different skills you must have when teaching a puppy class vs an adult class. Puppy classes are easy and fun and you just need to remember a couple of basics to be successful.

A great and fun way to desensitize the puppies for anything in life is to have your students bring in costumes and dress up. Tell them to act silly or wear masks. If you have a wheelchair bring that in or blow up some balloons. Anything a dog might encounter in life, bring it to class. Now they won't fear it later in adulthood because they saw it in puppyhood. Then these dogs are ready to face the world and all its scary things.

In more advanced puppy classes start teaching them more vocabulary. Teaching Go To and Fetch behaviors allows you to teach them the names for lots of things. Teach them names of people. Then you can practice sending them to different people, or you can have them fetch different items from around your home. These are all great ways to exercise your dog on a rainy day.

Day 4 Video 6/6
01:09:56