
Materials needed include:
· 5/32” cotton filler cord for piping
· Fabric suitable for slipcovers
· Bulk zipper
· Nylon or heavy-duty thread
· All-purpose thread
· Sewing Machine
· Sewing Machine Needles (size 16 or 18)
· Pins (longer quilting pins are preferred)
* A quilter ruler
A chair to slipcover
Bias strips are needed any time you need piping. Bias means to cut directly across the grain of the fabric. I make my bias strips 2" wide.
When making templates for a slipcover I like to use old sheets. If you don't have any old sheets often you can find them at a charity shop or thrift store.
After creating templates these will need to be cut out of the fabric. Trace around the template with tailors chalk or another marking tool for sewing. REMEMBER: the chalk line is not the cut line. In this case the chalk line is approximately where you will be stitching. I like to leave about an 1" of seam allowance for slipcovers until after it is all sewn together and then I trim off the extra.
After the fabric is cut out, begin laying the arm pieces onto the chair. Some pieces may need to held in place by pinning them to the chair while you are pin fitting the pieces together.
I cut my bias strips 2" wide. For some pieces I attach the piping to a single piece as shown in this video. Another method will be shown in for the second chair in this course. For wing chairs I typically sew the piping to the outer arm pieces and the back piece. The reason for chosing to sew it to those rather than to the connecting piece is because those surface areas are the flatest and least likely to need pleats.
Once the piping is sewn to the outer chair arm, begin to pin fit the top inner arm. As you come around the curve pleat the fabric a little at a time by folding the fabric over. I usually make three small pleats around the top curve. Make sure that the pleats are all folded in the same direction when sewing.
After the arms are sewn together begin to pin fit the remainder of the chair (except for the skirt). Remember to leave extra fabric in the seams where the fabric can be tucked.
Before trimming any of your extra seam allowances be sure to check the fit!
Piping or cording can add extra bulk to the seam, causing the seams to look puckered. Trimming some of the extra cotton cording out of the seam will help reduce the bulk.
Measuring all the way around the slipcover an equal distance from the floor. This will ensure that the skirt hangs evenly all the way around.
This is also a good time to determine how long you want your skirt to be. If you wanted a skirt to go to the floor I would recommended adding a strip of "boxing" (about a 6" wide strip of fabric) at this point and then having a skirt start from there. You do want the skirt to look proportional to the chair.
For slipcovers bulk zipper is the best way to go. After you have your pull on the zipper I like to add fabric to the end in this manner to create a "stopper" at the top of the zipper.
The zipper gets stitched face down first, turned right side and then top stitched. This provides an extra measure of stability for the zipper seam.
For skirts with pleats (such as this one) add 12" to the length of each side plus seam allowance. This will give you 6" for each side of each corner that you need for the pleats. After all the lengths of the skirt are sewn together then you can iron up for the hem (as shown in this video)
I use a quilting ruler to mark the skirt for the correct length (in this case the skirt is 6 1/2" long all the way around). Draw a chalk line at to mark the length.
This skirt has pleats which means that I added an extra 6" for each side of the each corner. (12" for each corner). This will create a 3" pleat on either side of every corner. Watch careful how I start the skirt at the zipper with a 3" fold under to give the illusion of a pleat and then at the end the excess extends beyond the corner.
Use the piping to act as a guide for the presser foot. Stitch slowly as you go over the pleats to make sure that everything is laying flat. Afterwards you will trim the seams and zigzag or serge the edges.
Add snaps to the skirt to secure it in place over the zipper end. Check the resouces file for a larger image of the snaps and how they will look on the finished skirt.
Test the fit! And iron the skirt.
Congratulations you have learned to slipcover a wing chair!
Make a cushion template using old fabric or a sheet. Make sure that your template is symmetrical.
The boxing is the length around the perimeter of the cushion. Be sure to also make allowances for seams. The zipper panel should be the length of the back side plus 6" on both the right and left side.
The width of the zipper panel will be the width of the boxing plus 3 1/2" of seam allowance. For example this cushion is 3 3/4 " boxing, The zipper panel should be 8 1/4".
Fold the zipper panel in half. Stitch 3/4" from the fold using an all purpose thread. Cut open the fold all the way down. Serge or zigzag those edges. Sew in the zipper. Remove the stitches from the center seam.
Start attaching the boxing from one end of the zipper panel. Make sure to place it evenly on the cushion so there is an even amount of zipper distributed on the sides.
Stitch using the piping as a guide.
Pin the other facing to the boxing. Use the corners to help align the piece.
Trim off the excess and add slits at the corner seams.
Stuff the cushion into the new cover. Make sure to fold the seam allowance toward the boxing.
Carefully measure each piece of the chair. I label the pieces as
arm inside
arm outside
seat
seat back
chair back
bottom boxing
(if you choose to have a skirt you would account for this)
Before this lecture you should have all your pieces cut out. I make sure to pin a label to each piece so I know what they are when I need them.
Lay the seat panel in the chair and mark it accordingly. Trim out the excess, but be sure to leave plenty of seam allowance (at least and inch.)
Pin fit the arms. To do this you will need to pin the arms to the body of the chair, to hold the pieces in place.
Pin the piping to the arm piece with the fewest curves or folds.
After you are done with the arms, pin fit to the seat.
Now it is time to pin fit the piping to the back.
Pin the seat front to the back of the chair.
Add the boxing on the front.
Carefully sew together the slipcover.
Put the slipcover back on the chair and make sure you have a good fit.
Add the back zipper.
Try the slipcover on the chair once more after the zipper is sewn in.
Top stitch around the zipper.
Top stitch along the bottom piping edge. Look at the file under the resources tab of this section to see what the finished result should look like.
Are you ready to take your sewing skills to the next level?
Learning to sew slipcovers is a fabulous way to redecorate your home without buying new furniture. These slipcovers are custom made to exact fit, not like the general one size fits all slipcovers that you find online.
Don’t be intimidated by the size of the task. If you are a seasoned sewist, slipcovers are basic shapes and straight seams. This course covers two common chairs: a wing chair and a more basic boxy chair. Two different methods are demonstrated. One method is to make templates for each facing of the chairs, the other is to pin fit every piece and sew.
Slipcovers can be sewn specifically to fit your taste. You can opt to sew on a skirt or have a tight base. For chairs with charming wooden legs, you can opt to keep the skirt short, to showcase the beauty of the legs. The possibilities are endless.
Materials needed include:
· 5/32” cotton filler cord for piping
· Fabric suitable for slipcovers
· Bulk zipper
· Nylon or heavy-duty thread
· All-purpose thread
· Sewing Machine
· Sewing Machine Needles (size 16 or 18)
· Pins (longer quilting pins are preferred)
· A chair to slipcover