Science-Based Dog Training (with Feeling) - Day 1 of 3
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Science-Based Dog Training (with Feeling) - Day 1 of 3

Day 1: We Continue to Waste Puppyhood! Learn how to easily prevent the most common and predictable behavior problems.
0.0 (0 ratings)
Course Ratings are calculated from individual students’ ratings and a variety of other signals, like age of rating and reliability, to ensure that they reflect course quality fairly and accurately.
15 students enrolled
Created by Ian Dunbar
Published 7/2013
English
English [Auto]
Price: $29.99
30-Day Money-Back Guarantee
This course includes
  • 6 hours on-demand video
  • 3 downloadable resources
  • Full lifetime access
  • Access on mobile and TV
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What you'll learn
  • Learn how to raise the perfect puppy
  • Learn how to socialize and housetrain a new puppy
  • Learn how to easily prevent common and predictable behavior problems
  • Learn how to deal with puppy biting
Requirements
  • There are no requirements to take this course
Description

For a limited time use the Promocode "I Love Dogs" to save $10 on this course.

Day 1 - We Continue to Waste Puppyhood

Are we going to raise puppies to be well-behaved, good-natured, friendly and confident adult dogs, or are we going to continue to manufacture large numbers of shelter dogs — dogs that soil the house, chew, bark excessively, become anxious when left at home alone and are wary, fearful, snappy, or aggressive towards people?

Many behavior, temperament and training problems are caused primarily in puppyhood yet are seldom manifested until adolescence and adulthood, namely — housesoiling, destructive chewing, excessive barking, separation anxiety, hyperactivity, lack of attention, fearfulness and dog-human and dog-dog aggression. These problems are predictable and preventable but we are simply not doing one tenth of the training, one hundredth of the socialization, or one thousandth of the classical conditioning. We are not socializing puppies sufficiently and so, many become fearful, scared, anxious and snappy around people. We are wasting a golden opportunity by missing the socialization and impressionable training window.

Puppies need to be safely (at home) socialized and handled when very young (starting with neonatal handling) and require housetraining, chewtoy-training and basic manners programs to be up and running from the outset. Many prospective puppy owners would much rather pay premium prices for housetrained, chewtoy-trained, well-socialized and well-mannered puppies, rather than paying bargain prices for peeing-pooping, chewing, barking, shy/fearful and unruly puppies.

We must teach people how to prevent behavior problems otherwise we'll be out of a job. Common and predictable behavior problems are the most common reason why people become dissatisfied with and eventually get rid of their dogs. Sadly, preventable behavior problems are the #1 terminal illness for domestic dogs. Dogs will still develop behavior problems, but the earlier we act, the easier they are to resolve. Or, to put it another way, the longer the dog has a bad habit, the harder it becomes to break. And if owners think that retraining will require a lot of time and effort, often they won't seek help from a trainer.

We must super-socialize dogs to prevent the development of temperament problems such as anxiety, fearfulness, and aggression towards people and other dogs, otherwise we won't be able to do our job. The whole point of early socialization is that when dogs develop temperament problems, the prognosis is good and trainers can help the owners resolve the problems quickly, easily and safely. Successful rehabilitation usually only takes a few days with a three-month old dog that is fearful around people, however, it would take several weeks for a five-month-old dog and many months or a couple of years for an eight-month old dog. And for dogs that are fearful of people, their life becomes a living nightmare.

Trying to resolve temperament problems in adult dogs is not only time-consuming but also, difficult and sometimes potentially dangerous — often well beyond the budget and capabilities of many owners. For trainers to be able to help owners resolve aggression towards people and other dogs, the dog must have acquired bite inhibition during puppyhood (during socialization and play). When dogs have good bite inhibition, the prognosis is good and the problems may be resolved fairly quickly and safely. Such cases are the most rewarding and fulfilling in dog training. They are pretty straightforward but the owners are relieved and thankful. However, if the adult dog does not have bite inhibition, the dog is dangerous and there is not much that you can do to help.

The secret of a successful dog training business is to promote early socialization and handling to breeders, pet store owners and veterinarians by explaining that is in their best interests (to keep their clients alive) to convince owners of the extreme urgency of errorless housetraining, chew-toy training, preventing habitual barking, home-alone preparation programs and safe (at home) socialization with people before three months of age.

Who this course is for:
  • Professional dog trainrs
  • Pet dog professionals: Veterinary clinicians, sheter workers and volunteers, groomers, dog walkers, pet store personnel
  • Pet dog owners with an interest in the science of dog training
  • Anyone interested in learning theory and the science behind motivation and behavior modification, through the lens of dog-friendly dog training
Course content
Expand all 9 lectures 10:30:53
+ Video Lectures
6 lectures 06:04:53
Puppy classes are great but they are much too little much too late. Socialization has to happen before 13 weeks or 3 months. The most desirable quality of a dog is to be huggable or as a vet would say, handleable. Puppy classes are a place for puppies to learn bite inhibition, for the owners to learn how to control their dogs off leash with distractions.

Pet dog training is not about training the dog, that part is simple. Is it about teaching people what to do, motivating them to do it and then checking that they have done it. Getting them to want to do it, is the trick, motivation is key.

We have to realize that dogs are dogs and they do doggie things. They pee and they poop and they bark. Now what you have to do it teach the dog where to pee and poop, when to bark, and what to chew. Teach confidence and independence right away. This is the only way to prevent separation anxiety problems.

The problem is when you take your puppy home for the first time you don't do this early enough and now its too late. The older the dog the longer its had the habit the harder it is to resolve. Permanent damage can be done here if you don't socialize your puppy early enough. Behavior problems can be solved any time in life even though it gets a little harder with time. But socialization, if not done early enough, can be too late for the dog to be what he could have been. Good habits are just as hard to break as bad habits. The best way to prevent behavior problems from happening is to predict them before they start. 
Preview 59:23
Puppy training initiative outlines all the benefits for all the different dog professions. A benefit for breeders selling puppies is that you can charge much more for house trained puppies.

The best way to house train your puppy is through a confinement area and a total management plan. Keep the dog in a long term confinement area while you are not home with three separate areas with a  bed on one end and a substrate on the other which doubles as a toilet. This area will also have chew toys tied to the area between the bathroom and bed.

In a pet store it is best to have them in their confinement area and tae them out every hour to pee or poop and then play and socialize them during this time. Then put him back into his confinement area with a chew toy stuffed with treats or kibble and reset the clock for an hour to repeat.

Playing with interactive toys with you puppy is a great way to train. Toys provide exercise and allow you to have quality time with your puppy. Most people don't really know how to play with dogs or understand dog toys and how to integrate them in training. Play fetch, Frisbee, tug, and Mr. mousy and Mr. carcass.

Trainers and shelters don't get to see dogs soon enough. Dog owners come to trainers when they have problems behaviors with their dog and the shelters see them when it is too late. But vets and breeders see puppies first off. We need vets and breeders to preach the puppy training initiative to puppy owners before it is too late. Vets and breeders should encourage puppy classes and there they will learn basic manners off leash with distractions as well as preventing behaviors problems and preventing temperament problems.
Video 2 of 6
56:50
House training is really easy when you can predict when your dog needs to go to the bathroom. Now you can take him to the right place and reward him for it. That is what we use the crate for. Take him out every hour on the hour when you are at home to give them an opportunity to go.

From the beginning you can prevent destructive chewing, hyperactivity, excessive barking and separation anxiety all by using their confinement areas. Put them in a long-term confinement area while you are not at home and when you get home clean up the feces and change the substrate once a week. Then when you are home put him is in his crate with a chew toy and take him out once an hour on the hour to go pee and poop. Give three liver treats and take him back inside to play with an empty bladder and rectum.

If you live in an apartment train your dog to go to the bathroom right when you get outside. Stand there until they pee and poop and reward them with the walk. If you train this you can pick up the poop and throw it away and now you don't have to carry it around with you n your walk.

Teaching a dog how to 'shoosh' is simple if you first teach them how to bark. Now you can teach 'shoosh' when you are ready and when it is convenient for you. Well how do you teach the dog how to bark? Lure reward train this behavior. Give a cue ('speak') and lure them to bark, with a door bell for example, and now you can reward and praise the desired behavior.

Owner absent problems need to be assessed whether it is a separation anxiety problem or a owner absent misbehavior. By graphing out the activity levels of your dog before, during and after you leave for work. Separation anxiety is very difficult and takes about two to three months to fix with lot's of dedication and small steps. The dog needs to learn now how to be alone and independent and this training starts when you are at home.
Video 3 of 6
01:10:18
The perennial question in dog training is about genes in behavior. The debate on which is more important, nature or nurture, is a very interesting discussion but the truth is is that they are both as important and you can't have one without the other. If you are talking about breeding, genes are 100% more important then the environment. Upbringing is everything. When you get a dog don't ask why they do what they do, it is a waste of time. Don't blame behaviors problems on breeds. You will train a dog the same no matter what breed.

The most important quality in any dog is bite inhibition. Puppies have needle sharp teeth so they can teach each other bite inhibition during their play sessions. They learn how to use the force of their jaw as a puppy and when they bite too hard.

A temperament test tells you a lot about how a dog reacts and whether or not he has bite inhibition. Pushing a dog to reaction and observing how they handle it by growling, jaw snapping, or biting. A gentle mouth is essential.

When training bite inhibition you first need to decrease the force of the bite by yelping and telling him it hurts to the point where they are not biting anymore but instead they are mouthing. Then you can decrease the number of instances it occurs by training an 'off' 'take it' 'thank you' by playing tug. Now the dog knows 'off' and will remove his muzzle from anything including your arm.

To use a shock collar you have to be extremely trained trainer. You need four skills, you got to have a good understanding of dog behavior, you need to have an unbelievable understanding of learning theory, exquisite timing and manual dexterity. But if you have those four skills you don't need a shock collar because you are a great trainer and you have a trained dog.
Video 4 of 6
43:22
Objectively classify the seriousness of all aggression problems. Hard fact is based on wound pathology. 90% of all dog bites are in level one where there is a warning bite but no injury or broken skin. Looks and sounds aggressive but no action is taken, dos teeth didn't even touch your skin. Level two teeth touched your skin but there is no skin puncture. At this stage all the dog needs oodles of classical conditioning and start to feed all his food from your hands and stop feeding from the food bowl. Hand feeding is the perfect way to solve a level two biter. Get out there and resolve these cases. The dogs usually have good bite inhibition they are just not socialized. Level three you have skin puncture, one to three holes in your arm. No hole is deeper then half the length of the canine teeth. These cases are a little more difficult. Don't work with level 4, 5, and 6.

Viciousness is the intent to cause harm but the question is, do dogs have this cognitive ability. Wound pathology is quantifiable and behavior is observable and quantifiable.

When need to raise puppies outside of the box. Get them into the arms of men and children right away. The more hands handle them the better. The earlier you introduce things to your puppy the better, nail clipping, brushing, check their ears.

Socialization needs to start neonatally especially with hard to handle breeds. A great excuse to have a party with old friends is to have a puppy. All the people from your party gets to hold and handle this puppy. Tell them to bring costumes and props and get your puppy exposed to everything it may encounter in its life time. He needs to meet so many people in his puppyhood that no one he meets will ever be a surprise to him. At 10 weeks you can put your puppy in class. Now socialization can take place with other puppies.
Video 5 of 6
01:02:04
Stop feeding a dog from a bowl. He needs to only eat kibble from the hand for training and learning purposes. Food bowls are graduation presents. Once your dog is now a grown up dog that is the perfect dog for you he can now eat out of a food bowl. Now it means you now no longer need the food in their bowl to change your temperament, to classically condition you, to prevent behavior problems, or to teach you manners.

In a class setting you have to pay attention to all the signs that the puppies show you. There are many warning signs and the two biggest problems are fearfulness and bullies. These two problems need to be fix right away. These are extremes in behavior. With a bully deal with him with a running dialog to tell the dog what he is doing right and wrong. Or put a bully in puppy now into a puppy two class where he will get bullied. Tell him it is ok to play but it is not ok to slat a little dog. If you have a fearful dog by the end of your six week class then have them start up a new class for free where he can be the big dog on campus with all new puppies that are much younger.

Dog dog aggression needs to be assessed with a case history. How many times has the dog gotten into a fight with another dog? What happened in the fight, was there damage done? How much was the vet bill? Now you can assess bite inhibition. Growl classes are good for dog dog aggression. Don't use lure reward training or giving the dogs commands. Don't tell him what to do so then he won't be wrong. All or none reward training is how you will shape their behavior. And classical conditioning by using the jolly routine. This exercise helps you as the trainer change the situation. Don't fuel your dogs fire. This is classical conditioning and stimulus blocking.
Video 6 of 6
01:12:56
+ Notes
3 lectures 00:00
Lecture Notes
6 pages

Everything about dog training is easier if you start it earlier in the puppy's development, especially socialization and housetraining.  The vast majority of behavior problems in adult dogs could have been easily prevented during puppyhood.  These behavior problems are often the reason dogs end up abandoned at shelters.

That's why we make BEFORE & AFTER You Get Your Puppy available as a free download.  This PDF file can actually be customized with your business contact information and then distributed freely as a valuable promotional tool.  You'll be promoting good puppy-raising practices and thereby helping to keep dogs out of shelters, all while promoting your own business.

BEFORE You Get Your Puppy
by Dr. Ian Dunbar

When you choose a new puppy, you need to meet six developmental deadlines before your puppy is just five months old. If your puppy fails to meet any of these deadlines, he will never achieve his full potential and will be playing ‘behavioral catch-up’ for the rest of his life. BEFORE You Get Your Puppy covers the first three developmental deadlines covering the period from puppy selection to your puppy’s first week at home. The last three developmental deadlines that your puppy needs to meet before he is six months old are described in a second book — AFTER You Get Your Puppy

1st Developmental Deadline — Your Education About Puppy Education
You need to complete your education about puppy education before you search for a puppy. You need to know how to select a good puppy and how puppies work. Selecting a puppy is similar to buying a car: Do lots of research beforehand and "test drive" a wide variety, especially including the one you intend to buy. But first, you need to learn how to drive. Specifically you need to know how to teach your puppy: where to eliminate, what to chew, when to bark, where to dig, to sit when greeting people, to walk calmly on-leash, to settle down and shush when requested, to inhibit biting behavior, to enjoy spending time at home alone, and to thoroughly enjoy the company of other dogs and people — especially strangers and children

2nd Developmental Deadline — Evaluating Your Prospective Puppy’s Progress
Before you choose your puppy, you need to know how to assess your prospective puppy’s current socialization and educational status. Regardless of breed or breeding, if socialization, errorless housetraining, and basic manners are not well underway by eight weeks of age, the puppy is already developmentally retarded.

3rd Developmental Deadline — Errorless Housetraining & Chewtoy-Training
Make certain that an errorless housetraining and chewtoy-training program is instituted from the very first day your puppy comes home.

BEFORE You Get Your Puppy - eBook
104 pages

Everything about dog training is easier if you start it earlier in the puppy's development, especially socialization and housetraining.  The vast majority of behavior problems in adult dogs could have been easily prevented during puppyhood.  These behavior problems are often the reason dogs end up abandoned at shelters.

That's why we make BEFORE & AFTER You Get Your Puppy available as a free download.  This PDF file can actually be customized with your business contact information and then distributed freely as a valuable promotional tool.  You'll be promoting good puppy-raising practices and thereby helping to keep dogs out of shelters, all while promoting your own business.


AFTER You Get Your Puppy covers the last three developmental deadlines that your puppy needs to meet before he is six months old.

4th Developmental Deadline — Socializing Your Puppy to People

Your Most Urgent Priority is to socialize your puppy to a wide variety of people, especially children, men, and strangers, before he is twelve weeks old. Well-socialized puppies grow up to be wonderful companions, whereas antisocial dogs are difficult, time-consuming, and potentially dangerous. As a rule of thumb, your puppy needs to meet at least one hundred people before he is three months old. Since your puppy is still too young to venture out to dog parks and sidewalks, you’ll need to start inviting people to your home right away.

5th Developmental Deadline — Teaching Bite Inhibition

Your Most Important Priority is that your puppy learns to inhibit the force of his bites and develop a "soft mouth" before he is eighteen weeks old. Whenever a dog bites a person, or fights with another dog, the single most important prognostic factor is the degree of bite inhibition and hence, the likelihood and seriousness of injury. Accidents happen. Someone may tread on the dog’s paw, or a child may trip over the dog while he’s gnawing a bone. A dog may snap and lunge at a person when hurt or frightened, but if the dog has well-established bite inhibition, it is unlikely the dog’s teeth will puncture, or even touch the skin.

6th Developmental Deadline — Continuing Socialization in The World at Large
The Most Enjoyable Priority of dog ownership is to introduce your well-socialized puppy to the world at large. Your dog will only remain sociable and confident if he continues to meet and greet at least three unfamiliar people and three unfamiliar dogs every day. Meeting the same people and dogs over and over is not sufficient. Your dog needs to practice meeting, greeting, and getting along with strangers, not simply getting along with old friends. Regular walks with your dog are as essential as they are enjoyable.
AFTER You Get Your Puppy - eBook
156 pages