Science-Based Dog Training (with Feeling) - All 3 Days

Name: Science-Based Dog Training (with Feeling) - All 3 Days
Rating: 4.5 (1594 reviews)

Learn effective and enjoyable dog training methods that are science-based and ready for real-world dog training.

Created byIan Dunbar

Last updated 1/2016

English

What you'll learn

Learn how to raise the perfect puppy
Learn how to socialize and housetrain a new puppy
Gain a fundamental understanding of the field of Learning Theory
Learn how to measure the effectiveness of different behavior modification strategies
Learn to train your dog to be a well-behaved canine companion
Learn to train your dog to be reliably under control, off-leash, at a distance, around distractions
Learn to phase out the use of food and other external rewards in training

Course content

5 sections • 37 lectures • 17h 50m total length

Video 1 of 659:23
Puppy classes are great but they are much too little much too late. Socialization has to happen before 13 weeks or 3 months. The most desirable quality of a dog is to be huggable or as a vet would say, handleable. Puppy classes are a place for puppies to learn bite inhibition, for the owners to learn how to control their dogs off leash with distractions.

Pet dog training is not about training the dog, that part is simple. Is it about teaching people what to do, motivating them to do it and then checking that they have done it. Getting them to want to do it, is the trick, motivation is key.

We have to realize that dogs are dogs and they do doggie things. They pee and they poop and they bark. Now what you have to do it teach the dog where to pee and poop, when to bark, and what to chew. Teach confidence and independence right away. This is the only way to prevent separation anxiety problems.

The problem is when you take your puppy home for the first time you don't do this early enough and now its too late. The older the dog the longer its had the habit the harder it is to resolve. Permanent damage can be done here if you don't socialize your puppy early enough. Behavior problems can be solved any time in life even though it gets a little harder with time. But socialization, if not done early enough, can be too late for the dog to be what he could have been. Good habits are just as hard to break as bad habits. The best way to prevent behavior problems from happening is to predict them before they start.
Video 2 of 656:50
Puppy training initiative outlines all the benefits for all the different dog professions. A benefit for breeders selling puppies is that you can charge much more for house trained puppies.

The best way to house train your puppy is through a confinement area and a total management plan. Keep the dog in a long term confinement area while you are not home with three separate areas with a bed on one end and a substrate on the other which doubles as a toilet. This area will also have chew toys tied to the area between the bathroom and bed.

In a pet store it is best to have them in their confinement area and tae them out every hour to pee or poop and then play and socialize them during this time. Then put him back into his confinement area with a chew toy stuffed with treats or kibble and reset the clock for an hour to repeat.

Playing with interactive toys with you puppy is a great way to train. Toys provide exercise and allow you to have quality time with your puppy. Most people don't really know how to play with dogs or understand dog toys and how to integrate them in training. Play fetch, Frisbee, tug, and Mr. mousy and Mr. carcass.

Trainers and shelters don't get to see dogs soon enough. Dog owners come to trainers when they have problems behaviors with their dog and the shelters see them when it is too late. But vets and breeders see puppies first off. We need vets and breeders to preach the puppy training initiative to puppy owners before it is too late. Vets and breeders should encourage puppy classes and there they will learn basic manners off leash with distractions as well as preventing behaviors problems and preventing temperament problems.
Video 3 of 61:10:18
House training is really easy when you can predict when your dog needs to go to the bathroom. Now you can take him to the right place and reward him for it. That is what we use the crate for. Take him out every hour on the hour when you are at home to give them an opportunity to go.

From the beginning you can prevent destructive chewing, hyperactivity, excessive barking and separation anxiety all by using their confinement areas. Put them in a long-term confinement area while you are not at home and when you get home clean up the feces and change the substrate once a week. Then when you are home put him is in his crate with a chew toy and take him out once an hour on the hour to go pee and poop. Give three liver treats and take him back inside to play with an empty bladder and rectum.

If you live in an apartment train your dog to go to the bathroom right when you get outside. Stand there until they pee and poop and reward them with the walk. If you train this you can pick up the poop and throw it away and now you don't have to carry it around with you n your walk.

Teaching a dog how to 'shoosh' is simple if you first teach them how to bark. Now you can teach 'shoosh' when you are ready and when it is convenient for you. Well how do you teach the dog how to bark? Lure reward train this behavior. Give a cue ('speak') and lure them to bark, with a door bell for example, and now you can reward and praise the desired behavior.

Owner absent problems need to be assessed whether it is a separation anxiety problem or a owner absent misbehavior. By graphing out the activity levels of your dog before, during and after you leave for work. Separation anxiety is very difficult and takes about two to three months to fix with lot's of dedication and small steps. The dog needs to learn now how to be alone and independent and this training starts when you are at home.
Video 4 of 643:22
The perennial question in dog training is about genes in behavior. The debate on which is more important, nature or nurture, is a very interesting discussion but the truth is is that they are both as important and you can't have one without the other. If you are talking about breeding, genes are 100% more important then the environment. Upbringing is everything. When you get a dog don't ask why they do what they do, it is a waste of time. Don't blame behaviors problems on breeds. You will train a dog the same no matter what breed.

The most important quality in any dog is bite inhibition. Puppies have needle sharp teeth so they can teach each other bite inhibition during their play sessions. They learn how to use the force of their jaw as a puppy and when they bite too hard.

A temperament test tells you a lot about how a dog reacts and whether or not he has bite inhibition. Pushing a dog to reaction and observing how they handle it by growling, jaw snapping, or biting. A gentle mouth is essential.

When training bite inhibition you first need to decrease the force of the bite by yelping and telling him it hurts to the point where they are not biting anymore but instead they are mouthing. Then you can decrease the number of instances it occurs by training an 'off' 'take it' 'thank you' by playing tug. Now the dog knows 'off' and will remove his muzzle from anything including your arm.

To use a shock collar you have to be extremely trained trainer. You need four skills, you got to have a good understanding of dog behavior, you need to have an unbelievable understanding of learning theory, exquisite timing and manual dexterity. But if you have those four skills you don't need a shock collar because you are a great trainer and you have a trained dog.
Video 5 of 61:02:04
Objectively classify the seriousness of all aggression problems. Hard fact is based on wound pathology. 90% of all dog bites are in level one where there is a warning bite but no injury or broken skin. Looks and sounds aggressive but no action is taken, dos teeth didn't even touch your skin. Level two teeth touched your skin but there is no skin puncture. At this stage all the dog needs oodles of classical conditioning and start to feed all his food from your hands and stop feeding from the food bowl. Hand feeding is the perfect way to solve a level two biter. Get out there and resolve these cases. The dogs usually have good bite inhibition they are just not socialized. Level three you have skin puncture, one to three holes in your arm. No hole is deeper then half the length of the canine teeth. These cases are a little more difficult. Don't work with level 4, 5, and 6.

Viciousness is the intent to cause harm but the question is, do dogs have this cognitive ability. Wound pathology is quantifiable and behavior is observable and quantifiable.

When need to raise puppies outside of the box. Get them into the arms of men and children right away. The more hands handle them the better. The earlier you introduce things to your puppy the better, nail clipping, brushing, check their ears.

Socialization needs to start neonatally especially with hard to handle breeds. A great excuse to have a party with old friends is to have a puppy. All the people from your party gets to hold and handle this puppy. Tell them to bring costumes and props and get your puppy exposed to everything it may encounter in its life time. He needs to meet so many people in his puppyhood that no one he meets will ever be a surprise to him. At 10 weeks you can put your puppy in class. Now socialization can take place with other puppies.
Video 6 of 61:12:56
Stop feeding a dog from a bowl. He needs to only eat kibble from the hand for training and learning purposes. Food bowls are graduation presents. Once your dog is now a grown up dog that is the perfect dog for you he can now eat out of a food bowl. Now it means you now no longer need the food in their bowl to change your temperament, to classically condition you, to prevent behavior problems, or to teach you manners.

In a class setting you have to pay attention to all the signs that the puppies show you. There are many warning signs and the two biggest problems are fearfulness and bullies. These two problems need to be fix right away. These are extremes in behavior. With a bully deal with him with a running dialog to tell the dog what he is doing right and wrong. Or put a bully in puppy now into a puppy two class where he will get bullied. Tell him it is ok to play but it is not ok to slat a little dog. If you have a fearful dog by the end of your six week class then have them start up a new class for free where he can be the big dog on campus with all new puppies that are much younger.

Dog dog aggression needs to be assessed with a case history. How many times has the dog gotten into a fight with another dog? What happened in the fight, was there damage done? How much was the vet bill? Now you can assess bite inhibition. Growl classes are good for dog dog aggression. Don't use lure reward training or giving the dogs commands. Don't tell him what to do so then he won't be wrong. All or none reward training is how you will shape their behavior. And classical conditioning by using the jolly routine. This exercise helps you as the trainer change the situation. Don't fuel your dogs fire. This is classical conditioning and stimulus blocking.

Video 1 of 656:33
Through Pavlov, Skinner and Thorndike’s discoveries, the history of learning theory was crafted. Edward Thorndike created Thorndike’s law of effect, which described how to change behavior. He stated that when a behavior is followed by a reward, that behavior increases and if the behavior is follow by a punishment, that behavior decreases.

In training you can’t separate classical conditioning and operant conditioning. In training you have an antecedent, behavior and a consequence, A B C. A reward as a consequence of behavior is so effective. Using punishment is effective if it is used right but there are a lot of side effects and secondary punishers that are created through this method.

Instructive reprimand used to be the most effective way to eliminate behavior you don’t want and get your dog back on track. That is not how Sirius does it today. The use of the words ‘punishment’ and ‘reprimand’ comes with a lot of baggage and you immediately think of pain and retribution.

Now we use our voices in training. With our voices we can communicate three pieces of information: what you are doing right now is wrong, this is what I want you to do, and the potential danger of noncompliance. With one word and without raising your voice all that can be communicated and we can stop behavior quicker with this technique then any other behavior out there.
Video 2 of 634:10
Learning theory has been generated through laboratory experiments with consistent computers generating data. But this method is irrelevant to humans and putting training into practice can be very simple. Rewards and punishers have become too technical and we are not consistent enough with them. By formalizing your inconsistencies, you will get better reliability with your training.

There are many pros and cons to computer based schedules of reinforcement and punishment. There are also many pros and cons to when people try and apply these methods. The good news is that we can devise a more practical reinforcement schedule that is more efficient and effective and can now use punishers in a non-aversive way.
Video 3 of 61:00:16
The whole point of using intermittent schedules of reinforcement is to train animals to work more and more for less and less food rewards. You are preparing your dog to work more trials without rewards.

The single biggest problem with dog training today is that people are using too many food treats. Continuous schedules of reinforcement initially result in quick learning but end up with a decrease in rates of response and quality of behavior. With this method of reinforcement dogs learn that they get a treat after every behavior, which in turn denatures the food treat, and now it is no longer reinforcing.

Fixed interval and fixed ratio schedules of reinforcement you see either a scalloping of behavior or a increase in speed but a decrease in quality. We don’t want variable behavior from our dogs so why would we ever use these schedules.

Variable schedules of reinforcement are incredible at maintaining behaviors but they are almost impossible for a human to compute. Random reinforcement is so easy for humans to practice and is good for maintaining behavior but not improving behavior.

The best way to maintain behavior and also to improve the quality and speed of behavior is differential reinforcement. Reinforcement is given only to the above average responses and better responses get better rewards and the best responses get the best rewards.

What is punishment? It is a stimulus that causes the immediately preceding behavior to decrease in frequency such that it is less likely to occur in the future. It doesn’t have to be painful or nasty.
Video 4 of 61:18:58
Punishment must be effective, immediate and instructive. Punishment must also fit the crime. If your dog has previous training they should know what it is they are doing wrong and what it is they should be doing. Give them prior warning before a punishment so they have the option of correcting their own behavior.

There is an infinite amount of things to punish and only one thing to reward. Consistency is absolutely important with punishment training. The danger here is the dog now learns something different then what you are trying to teach.

Many owners are afraid of using punishment in training because they believe that is has to be harmful so they opt to use only reward based techniques. In actual fact aversive punishments are rare. Punishment doesn’t need to be aversive it just needs to be effective. Using your voice as a non-aversive punishment is a great way to train. Use your voice to correct and give instruction to undesirable behaviors.
Video 5 of 659:00
Verbal feedback does not have to be aversive. The voice is analogue versus non-instructive quantum feedback given by a computer. Communication is easy with analogue feedback. You can say the same words in many ways to communicate different things. Now your words can be instructive by using your tone of voice.

Tone reversals are useful in training. Shouting now means better rewards if you listen and only communicates urgency. With your voice you can give specific redirections. Now you can communicate what you are doing is right or wrong, how well you did, and the potential danger of non-compliance, all with one calm word with analogue verbal feedback. Teaching your dog the meaning of words now gives you the ability to instruct them what to do and use specific redirection and repetitive reinstruction when they err.

Repetitive reinstruction is useful when initially training a behavior or when demanding compliance. You will begin with poor response reliability but with repetition you can achieve greater response reliability. The difference between repetitive reinstruction and nagging is compliance.
Video 6 of 651:09
Data gathered from studies shows that verbal commands are less reliable then hand signals and are even less reliable with distance. With repetitive reinstruction you are building comprehension when training for distance.

We have to acknowledge the fact that we are inconsistent with training. A very useful trick you can use in training is called the dog con system. Have two different names for your dog, a pet name and a serious name. When you use his pet name you are simply suggesting he dog something but when use his full name you mean business and there is no option other then to do what you ask. When you are in dog con 2 that is the only time you have to be consistent and follow up.

Take learning theory and apply it with a basic training sequence 1234, request, lure, response, and reward. It is important to fade out the lure quickly and now your sequence will be 134 and you will be able to reward with life rewards.

Video 1 of 659:23
We are teaching two parts of training, to have a reliable response on cue and the session of a behavior on cue. Another thing we do as trainers is increase and decrease the frequency of behaviors.

The five reward based training techniques are physical prompting, lure/reward training, all or none reward training, shaping and auto-shaping. Physical prompting and lure reward training follows a basic sequence of 1 request, 2 lure or prompt, 3 response, 4 reward. If you follow this sequence then you will be able to accurately be predict the response because you cause the behavior to happen. But if you want to increase or decrease the frequency of the behavior only lure reward training will work.

The beauty of all or none reward training and shaping is that you don’t ask for the behavior, so the dog can’t be wrong. Just wait for a desirable behavior to occur. However with these two techniques it is much harder to put the behavior on cue because you have to capture it.
Video 2 of 61:13:38
The first stage in lure reward training it to teach the dog what we want them to do and phase out the lure. The second stage is to then teach the dog to want to do what we want them to do by phasing out the food reward and replacing it with life rewards. You want the dog to enjoy training and the worst punishment you could give him is to stop the training session.

Stage three is to enforce compliance without force, insist the dog does it. By using the dog con system you can let the dog know they have to do it and calmly insist they do it and repeat it before life can continue for your dog.

The art of training is discovering the most effective lure. But the trick is you have to get rid of the lure as quick as you can. A food lure in your hand is only to help teach the dog what the behavior is and what the hand signal is. Remove the food from your hand quickly. If you do not remove the food lure then you are simply bribing your dog.

When giving a verbal cue you must be careful not to give any body cues as well. And it is important that the verbal cue precedes the lure by half a second or the dog wont hear the verbal cue at all.

Now you can use differential reinforcement by rewarding responses that are above average. The best rewards are given to the best responses. The biggest life rewards you can give your dog is to walk with them or to let them go play. Your walk with your dog is a great training opportunity to reward our dogs responses with a continued walk.
Video 3 of 656:06
There are about seven different behavior problems that become distractions in training that could work against you. These are all behaviors that occur frequently and something the dog usually likes doing. We can use these behaviors in training as a reward for low frequency behaviors.

Jazz up and settle down is a great way to gain control over a high energy dog. Ask your dog to woof and shush on cue to control that alert bark. After your dog offers a sit then he can jump up. Teach your dog to pull on leash or speed up and slow down. Have then take something from you then let it go or drop it only to take it again. Reward a recall and sit with a game of chase. Now that food rewards are phased out and replaced with life rewards, the behavior sequence becomes 1-3 as the behaviors themselves are self-reinforcing.

Remember to use the dog con system when demanding compliance from your dog. Just make sure you follow up if you mean it. And if you ever have to repeat the command, they have to repeat the exercise. So they learn the quickest way to t go play again is to sit on the first command the first time you give it. Its so simple and takes a lot of punishment out of learning. You will have a much easier life with your pet this way.
Video 4 of 658:27
Face up to the fact that there are times when your dog is going to be out of control. Meet the beast and deal with it right away, don’t avoid it. Now teach him that sit means sit even when there is another dog around or when there is someone coming in the front door. Trouble shoot these behaviors by repeatedly exposing the dog to the same stimulus.

There are seven steps in training. These steps will accelerate training. The first step is defining your rules and all verbal commands used to communicate with your dog. Define the criteria and what you want the behavior to look like. What do you want your dog to do and what not to do and when. Define all these variables to your training because if you don’t know them, your dog won’t know them either.
Video 5 of 61:11:31
It is very important to train off leash so you do not use a physical prompt as a crutch. If you have a leash in your hand you will learn so many bad habits. It is much quicker to put responses on cue instead of relying on a leash.

Centripetal attraction towards you is also important. We want to be the center of our dog’s universe and have owner gravity with our dogs. There are a lot of really great exercises you can do with your dog but the best one is a following exercise. A trail walk is a perfect place to take your dog. Set the criteria to how close you want the dog to be to you. Once your dog approaches that distance ahead turn around and go the other way.

Teaching body position changes, is better then just teaching body positions. If you work with at least three positions at a time then your dog is less likely to predict which behavior is coming next. Now teach each of the three positions from the other two. When you randomize the commands it forces the dog to pay attention.
Video 6 of 645:51
Distance commands can be achieved by using a physical barrier like the edge of stairs or a crate. Practice body position changes there and make sure your dog doesn’t creep in towards you with every change. The most important distance command is the emergency sit. The emergency sit is a great way to integrate distance commands into walks and play time.

Now you want to proof your dog’s stay. Work towards duration, distance and distractions but not all at once. Teaching stay and proofing the stay with repetitive instruction is a great way to work on emergency sit and to get reliable distance commands. Having a bomb proof stay is very important.

Just as important is walking on leash. This is a difficult exercise for owners. If people have dogs that pull on leash, it can destroy a dog’s quality of life. Pulling on leash is a sign that the dog doesn’t want to be with the owner. Give your dog a reason to be close to you. If you accomplish off leash following and heeling then you will have a great walk on leash.
Congratulations on Completing This Course0:22

Lecture Notes17:00
BEFORE You Get Your Puppy - eBook1:44:00
Everything about dog training is easier if you start it earlier in the puppy's development, especially socialization and housetraining. The vast majority of behavior problems in adult dogs could have been easily prevented during puppyhood. These behavior problems are often the reason dogs end up abandoned at shelters.

That's why we make BEFORE & AFTER You Get Your Puppy available as a free download. This PDF file can actually be customized with your business contact information and then distributed freely as a valuable promotional tool. You'll be promoting good puppy-raising practices and thereby helping to keep dogs out of shelters, all while promoting your own business.

BEFORE You Get Your Puppy
by Dr. Ian Dunbar

When you choose a new puppy, you need to meet six developmental deadlines before your puppy is just five months old. If your puppy fails to meet any of these deadlines, he will never achieve his full potential and will be playing ‘behavioral catch-up’ for the rest of his life. BEFORE You Get Your Puppy covers the first three developmental deadlines covering the period from puppy selection to your puppy’s first week at home. The last three developmental deadlines that your puppy needs to meet before he is six months old are described in a second book — AFTER You Get Your Puppy

1st Developmental Deadline — Your Education About Puppy Education
You need to complete your education about puppy education before you search for a puppy. You need to know how to select a good puppy and how puppies work. Selecting a puppy is similar to buying a car: Do lots of research beforehand and "test drive" a wide variety, especially including the one you intend to buy. But first, you need to learn how to drive. Specifically you need to know how to teach your puppy: where to eliminate, what to chew, when to bark, where to dig, to sit when greeting people, to walk calmly on-leash, to settle down and shush when requested, to inhibit biting behavior, to enjoy spending time at home alone, and to thoroughly enjoy the company of other dogs and people — especially strangers and children

2nd Developmental Deadline — Evaluating Your Prospective Puppy’s Progress
Before you choose your puppy, you need to know how to assess your prospective puppy’s current socialization and educational status. Regardless of breed or breeding, if socialization, errorless housetraining, and basic manners are not well underway by eight weeks of age, the puppy is already developmentally retarded.

3rd Developmental Deadline — Errorless Housetraining & Chewtoy-Training
Make certain that an errorless housetraining and chewtoy-training program is instituted from the very first day your puppy comes home.
AFTER You Get Your Puppy - eBook2:36:00
Everything about dog training is easier if you start it earlier in the puppy's development, especially socialization and housetraining. The vast majority of behavior problems in adult dogs could have been easily prevented during puppyhood. These behavior problems are often the reason dogs end up abandoned at shelters.

That's why we make BEFORE & AFTER You Get Your Puppy available as a free download. This PDF file can actually be customized with your business contact information and then distributed freely as a valuable promotional tool. You'll be promoting good puppy-raising practices and thereby helping to keep dogs out of shelters, all while promoting your own business.

AFTER You Get Your Puppy covers the last three developmental deadlines that your puppy needs to meet before he is six months old.

4th Developmental Deadline — Socializing Your Puppy to People

Your Most Urgent Priority is to socialize your puppy to a wide variety of people, especially children, men, and strangers, before he is twelve weeks old. Well-socialized puppies grow up to be wonderful companions, whereas antisocial dogs are difficult, time-consuming, and potentially dangerous. As a rule of thumb, your puppy needs to meet at least one hundred people before he is three months old. Since your puppy is still too young to venture out to dog parks and sidewalks, you’ll need to start inviting people to your home right away.

5th Developmental Deadline — Teaching Bite Inhibition

Your Most Important Priority is that your puppy learns to inhibit the force of his bites and develop a "soft mouth" before he is eighteen weeks old. Whenever a dog bites a person, or fights with another dog, the single most important prognostic factor is the degree of bite inhibition and hence, the likelihood and seriousness of injury. Accidents happen. Someone may tread on the dog’s paw, or a child may trip over the dog while he’s gnawing a bone. A dog may snap and lunge at a person when hurt or frightened, but if the dog has well-established bite inhibition, it is unlikely the dog’s teeth will puncture, or even touch the skin.

6th Developmental Deadline — Continuing Socialization in The World at Large
The Most Enjoyable Priority of dog ownership is to introduce your well-socialized puppy to the world at large. Your dog will only remain sociable and confident if he continues to meet and greet at least three unfamiliar people and three unfamiliar dogs every day. Meeting the same people and dogs over and over is not sufficient. Your dog needs to practice meeting, greeting, and getting along with strangers, not simply getting along with old friends. Regular walks with your dog are as essential as they are enjoyable.

Requirements

There are no requirements to take this course

Description

This three-day seminar by world-renowned dog training expert Dr. Ian Dunbar is the product of a lifetime of studying dogs. This course brings together a wide variety of lessons learned from Dr. Dunbar's training as a veterinarian, a scientific researcher, an animal behaviorist, a professional dog trainer and a young boy growing up on an English farm. This seminar will focus on many principles and methods that have been scientifically proven in the research lab, and then adapted for the real-world environment and the many constraints that exist when a family of novices trains a pet dog in their home. And just because his methods are supported by science doesn't mean that they have no heart. In fact, Dr. Dunbar is quick to criticize techniques that ask trainers to behave like dispassionate laboratory robots. Instead, he believes that we as trainers need to utilize our strengths as humans: our intuition, our voice and our relationship with our dogs, in order to be the best trainers we can be. Then we can dispassionately measure and evaluate the results of our training, so we can scientifically determine whether or not our methods are effective. Whether you are a professional dog trainer, veterinary clinician, shelter worker, groomer, dog walker, or simply a pet owner who is interested in the science of dog training and behavior modification, this course will provide you with a wealth of exciting new ideas that you can immediately use to bring about positive change in your life with your dog. Dr. Dunbar was instrumental in the popularization of dog friendly training methods that are enjoyable for dogs and their owners, but also efficient and effective. You'll learn techniques that are perfectly appropriate for the whole family, and designed to produce well-behaved canine companions that are friendly and reliable. This course consists of 18+ hours worth of video lecture by Dr. Ian Dunbar, a set of accompanying notes and 2 eBooks: BEFORE You Get Your Puppy & AFTER You Get Your Puppy

Friday – We Continue to Waste Puppyhood

Saturday – Transcending Reinforcement Schedules, Going Way Beyond “Dominance" and Punishment and Rekindling the Relationship

Sunday – Off-leash Verbal Control with Distance and Distractions; Phasing out Food Lures and Rewards and Naturally Motivating your Dog to Perform Quickly, Reliably and Willingly

Who this course is for:

Professional dog trainers
Pet dog professionals: Veterinary clinicians, sheter workers and volunteers, groomers, dog walkers, pet store personnel
Pet dog owners with an interest in the science of dog training

Science-Based Dog Training (with Feeling) - All 3 Days

What you'll learn

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Course content

Day 1: We Continue to Waste Puppyhood6 lectures • 6hr 5min

Day 2 - Reinforcement Schedules, Punishment and Rekindling the Relationship6 lectures • 5hr 40min

Day 3 - Off-leash Verbal Control, Phasing out Food Lures and Motivating Your Dog7 lectures • 6hr 5min

Documents3 lectures • 4hr 37min

Behavior Blueprints15 lectures • 30min

Requirements

Description

Who this course is for: