The Pool Technician and Business Start Up Course

A Perfect Day as A Pool Service Technician.

In the morning, you should already have your client list printed from the day before, but double-check your texts and emails to see if any clients have special requests or have changed their service day.

Check your vehicle and make sure you have enough bags of salt and the right chemicals onboard.

Make sure you have your client list for the day in your scheduling program or app (pre-scheduled by text message two days before), your EFTPOS machine charged (if you have one), and your mobile phone ready to go.

Set your sat-nav or phone maps and head to the first house on the list. It will be a regular or a new customer.

When you arrive at the first house, park considerately outside or on their driveway. Be mindful they may need to get out, especially if it is early morning.

Knock on the door, greet the customer, introduce yourself, and if it is a new customer, give them a business card or magnet, then proceed to the pool. If it is a regular customer and they are not home, let yourself into the pool area as pre-arranged with the customer.

Do the pool service: inspect the pool, ask the customer questions (if present), check chemicals, check the equipment is working, check water flow, clean the pool surface, vacuum the pool if needed, add chemicals if needed, and add salt or treatments if needed.

Remember, if it is a new customer, all they are expecting to pay is your pool service price they have seen advertised or that you have quoted over the phone or via messages. If you are doing a deal with included chemicals, then the basic chemicals will be included in the price, but if the pool needs extras like salt or treatments, it is respectful to recommend them and confirm any extra cost before adding anything.

Once the customer becomes a regular, you can pre-arrange with them that if, on any service, the pool needs extras like salt or treatments, you will add it and then send the invoice afterwards.

If you get to the pool and it has bad algae or is green, do not proceed with a normal service. Estimate how much it will cost and inform the customer of the price before proceeding with the green pool recovery treatment. This process will be covered in another module of this course.

Once finished at the pool, put all equipment back in your vehicle.

If the customer is present, let them know you have finished and explain what you have done to build trust and rapport, then take payment by whichever method you use. Either take payment on the card machine, or let them know an invoice will be sent to their email. Tell them you will contact them and see them in four weeks, or next month.

Return to your vehicle and write a brief note on your client schedule sheet for that customer, detailing what was done, the price, how payment was received, and any brief notes for next time.

Drive to the next house on the client sheet and follow the same procedure. Remember to take photos of each pool so you have content for your social media and website.

After finishing your last client service, return home. If you are near your chemical supplier, check your stock levels and pick up supplies if needed.

Once home, if you have not checked already, check your chemical and salt levels in the vehicle and replenish stock as needed.

Log onto your laptop or computer, open your accounting program (such as Xero), and send invoices to any clients who have not paid.

Go to your scheduling program and move completed client jobs forward by 28 days, or whatever timeframe has been arranged with them.

Double-check your schedule for tomorrow to make sure clients are confirmed and you are ready for the next day.

Upload photos and posts to social media, respond to new enquiries, process emails, and book new customers.

Make time in tomorrow’s schedule to visit suppliers, if needed.

Go to your scheduling program and text clients who are booked for two days’ time to remind them of their upcoming pool service. This gives them enough time to confirm their booking.

Please note that some clients may take a long time to reply to your text message, sometimes up to two days, so when arranging your clients for that day, leave space for late replies.

Also be aware that you may get other local enquiries during the day that you can fit in if you are in the area.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

What Is A Standard Pool Service

At the end of this course, you will have the information and guidance to start your own pool servicing business, including the practical skills for the job itself and the basics of running a good business.

Let’s start with the job itself.

The beginning. What is a standard pool service?

A standard pool service consists of:

1. Visual inspection of the pool and equipment

2. Chemical testing

3. Chemical balancing

4. Scoop leaves and debris out of the pool

5. Vacuum and brush the pool floor (only if needed)

6. Cartridge filter cleaning (only if needed)

7. Sand filter backwash (only if needed)

8. Empty the skimmer basket and the main pump basket

9. Acid clean the salt chlorinator cell (only if needed)

10. Set and adjust the clock and timers on the chlorinator unit (only if needed)

11. Full equipment check of operation and any visible leaks

Visual Inspection Of The Pool And Equipment

On arrival at any pool, whether it is a regular pool you have visited before or a new pool, it is extremely important to visually inspect everything before you begin any physical service.

A visual inspection of the pool and equipment includes the following:

• Look at the colour, clarity, and water level.

• Check for algae and green, black, or brown spots.

• Check for debris in the pool and whether the pump is running.

• Visually inspect the equipment for leaks or damage while it is running.

• For new customers, check the age and condition of the equipment and whether it is working.

• If there is a sand filter, check the valve is set to “Filter”.

• Check the filter and look at the chlorinator to see if it is set to auto mode or timer.

Checking The Pool Is Running

Once a visual check has been made and you are satisfied with your inspection, check the operation of the equipment.

• Switch the pump on manually at the chlorinator, or whatever system is installed.

• Check the pump to see if water is running through it.

• Check the pool to see if water is moving and coming out of the jets.

• Check water is being drawn into the skimmer box correctly.

• Fit a vacuum plate to the skimmer basket to test suction.

• Check the pump is running and not leaking.

• Check there are no unusual sounds and that the pump primes properly.

Chlorinator System Or Chemical Feed System

Check the chlorination system installed and be aware of its make and type of chlorine production.

Check the timers and system are working. Check the chlorinator is switching the pump on and off as required.

If it is a salt chlorinator, make sure the cell is producing chlorine while the system is running.

If it is a chemical feed system, check all components are working correctly.

Filters

Usually, you will work with either a sand filter or a cartridge filter.

If there is a sand filter:

• Check the multiport valve is working correctly.

• Check that when the system is on Filter and water is running through it, water is not also going to Waste.

• Check the pressure gauge, but be aware gauges can stop working.

If there is a cartridge filter:

• Check water is flowing through correctly and check the gauge.

• These can block more easily than sand filters, so check for good water flow at the jets and strong suction at the skimmer.

• Switch off and remove the cartridge for cleaning if needed.

Please note:

• If there is a heat pump, check that it switches on when water flows through it.

• If there is a solar heater pump, check that it works and you can hear water flowing through the pipes to the roof.

• The solar pump is not essential to normal pool operation.

Checking And Adding Chemicals

When testing water, we test 7 elements:

• Free chlorine

• pH level (the balance between alkaline and acid)

• Total alkalinity

• Calcium (water hardness)

• Stabiliser (cyanuric acid)

• Salt (if it is a salt water pool)

• Phosphates

It can be valuable to offer a simple service deal such as a pool service including chemicals.

The included chemicals are the normal pool chemicals. Anything else can be classed as a treatment that you charge extra for, for example $50 to $60 per litre. It is recommended to charge separately for added bags of salt.

Included chemicals can be bought at a low price in bulk, and the marketing advantage is the value it creates for you and the customer. This is part of a good business strategy.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Equipment And Stock Needed To Start Your Business

Pool Cleaning And Servicing Equipment

Let’s look at a basic setup of pool cleaning equipment to start your pool service business.

The equipment listed below is enough to get started and can last anywhere from 3 to 24 months, depending on how often you use it and how well you look after it. Check your gear regularly and replace worn items before they fail on a job.

As you grow, you will naturally add or change tools to suit your own style. Suppliers also release improved equipment over time, so your setup will evolve as you gain experience and build your business.

It can be tempting to buy cheap when starting out, but it is far better to buy decent quality equipment where you can. Cheap gear usually breaks sooner, performs worse, and can affect the standard of your work. A professional looking setup also shows customers you take the job seriously.

The following items are recommended to keep in the van.

Pool Equipment Stock List

Telescopic Pole (8ft to 16ft)
For attaching the vacuum head, brush, and scoop

Super Rake
Scoop or net

Multi Purpose Brush
For brushing walls, steps, and the pool floor

Wire Brush or Algae Brush
For stubborn algae

Flexible Vacuum Head
For vacuuming the pool floor

13 Metre Vacuum Hose
For connecting the vacuum head to the skimmer

Test Kit 4 in 1
Chlorine and pH testing

Digital Salt Tester
Measures salt level (ppm)

Phosphate Testing Kit
For phosphate testing

Stabiliser Tester or Cyanuric Acid Plunger
For stabiliser testing

Test Strips For Bromine (50 pack)
For spa testing

Skimmer Plate 190mm
Common size (other sizes available)

Skimmer Plate 210mm
Common size (other sizes available)

Toolbox For Test Kits
To store test kits and tools

Universal Grip Tool (rubber strap)
For opening fittings and pump lids

20L Drum Opening Tool
For opening 20L drums

Cell Cleaning Jug
For acid cleaning salt cells

Hydra Slip Silicone Grease
For rubber seals and o rings

Skimmer Socks
For skimmer baskets and some granular treatments

DPD1 Tablets
For chlorine test kits

Cyanuric Acid Tablets (250 box)
For stabiliser test kits

Hose Joiners
For joining vacuum hoses

Skimmer Weir Adaptor
Rubber cone adaptor to fit into the skimmer plate

Universal PVC Elbow
For vacuum attachment

Lay Flat Blue Hose (50mm x 20m)
Ideal for running water to waste from the filter

Hose Clamps (40mm)
For securing the lay flat hose

Set Of Plastic Jugs
For measuring and dispensing liquids

Basic Pool Chemicals

Below is a recommended starter list of chemicals for your pool service business.

Some chemicals may last a week, others may last months. The key is stock control. Regularly check what you have, check expiry or shelf life where relevant, and store chemicals correctly. Old or poorly stored chemicals do not perform properly and can lead to poor results for the customer.

You should also keep the relevant MSDS (material safety data sheets) for the chemicals you carry. These cover correct use, storage, and disposal.

The following items are recommended to keep in the van.

Chemical Stock List

Liquid Chlorine (20L drum)
For treating pools

Hydrochloric Acid (20L drum)
For treating pools

Algaecide Treatments
For algae treatment

Flocculant Treatment
Liquid or powder treatment

Phosphate Remover
For phosphate treatment

Soda Ash (25kg bag)
For low pH

Alkalinity Increaser or pH Buffer (25kg bag)
For low alkalinity

Stabiliser or Water Sunscreen (10kg bag)
For low stabiliser

Calcium or Water Hardener (tub or bag)
For increasing calcium

Black Spot Algae Killer (cartons)
For black spot treatment

Granulated Chlorine (10kg tub)
Granular chlorine

Spa Bromine (1kg tub)
For spa treatment

Spa Shock (1kg tub)
For spa treatment

Liquid Chlorine (5L)
Carry size

Hydrochloric Acid (5L)
Carry size

Water Clarifier (cartons)
Clarifying treatment

Salt (20kg bags)
For salt pools

5L Containers With Lids
Carry size for decanted liquids or granular chemicals

20L Tub Lid Screw Tap
For decanting 20L drums into smaller containers

Additional Tools

In pool servicing, you will regularly run into small equipment issues, especially at new customer pools where equipment may be old or poorly maintained. Having basic tools on hand helps you diagnose problems quickly and handle simple fixes professionally.

Recommended tools to keep in the van:

Spanner Set
Screwdriver Set
Pliers
Wire Snips or Cutters
Allen Keys
Stanley Knife (for opening salt bags)
Large Clamp Tool
Vice Grips (for stiff valves)
Hammer
Rubber Mallet
Multimeter (for electrical testing)
Tape Measure
Garden Hose and Roller Stand (20m) in case the customer’s hose is faulty
T Bar and 10mm socket set (or a set of sockets) for attaching waste hose
Wire Brush
Insulation Tape
Funnel
LED Torch

Safety Gear And First Aid

Safety is paramount. You work outdoors, around water, electricity, and chemicals. Protecting your health and safety helps you work consistently and avoids preventable accidents.

It is recommended you complete basic first aid and manual handling training as your business develops.

Recommended items to keep in the van:

Hat With Neck Sun Cover
Knee Pads
Work Gloves
Chemical Gloves
Disposable Gloves
Sun Cream
Safety Glasses
Ear Defenders or Ear Plugs
Breathing Mask
First Aid Kit
Eye Wash Bottle
Small Fire Extinguisher
Manual Handling Notes
Pool Chemicals Information Sheet

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

How A Residential Swimming Pool Operates

It is important to understand the basic equipment, the water flow, and how everything works together.

The diagram in the resources shows a typical setup of basic swimming pool equipment and water flow.

In most systems, the equipment in order of water flow is a pool pump, a filter, and a salt chlorinator cell (auto chlorinator in the photo). Some pools also have a heater or heat pump, which is usually installed between the filter outlet and the chlorinator cell inlet.

There is also a control unit, often called the chlorinator or controller. This unit usually has a timer and other features. It switches the pool pump on and off at set times, and while the pump is running it supplies power to the salt cell, which produces chlorine for the pool.

A salt chlorinator system is common because it is simple to maintain. The pool water contains a recommended salt level, and when the water passes through the salt cell, the cell produces chlorine. That chlorine then returns to the pool to sanitise it. Without chlorine, bacteria can grow, algae can form, and the pool can eventually turn green.

In the diagram, the filter may be a sand filter or a cartridge filter, depending on what was installed. The filter’s job is to remove fine particles from the water to keep it clean and clear.

When the pool pump switches on, it draws water from the skimmer box at roughly 200 litres per minute, depending on the pump size. The water then flows into the pump, through the filter, through the heater if fitted, through the salt cell, and then back to the pool through the return jets.

Some pools have an adjustable valve after the filter that can divert water to the return jets or to a water feature if one is fitted.

Some pools also have a separate solar heating system with another pump and a smaller controller. This runs independently from the main system, with its own suction and return points, and sends water to pipework on the roof. Solar heating can be important for warming the pool, but it is not essential to the pool’s normal filtering and chlorination.

Circulation is a major part of the whole process. Circulation allows the water to be filtered and cleaned, and it also spreads chemicals through the pool. Think of it like stirring a cup of coffee after adding milk and sugar.

Every pool should have at least a pump and a filter.

Return jets are usually adjustable, which allows you to direct the water flow to improve circulation. It is good practice to aim the jets in a way that spins the water around the pool.

If the pool only has one jet, aim it toward the opposite side of the skimmer and slightly downward. This helps circulation and mixes the deeper water with the surface water.

Poor circulation areas are spots where the water does not move well. Common examples include behind ladders, around steps, in creases or corners, and underneath skimmers. Some of these areas are unavoidable, which is why it is important to brush them during a service.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

How a Basic Salt Chlorinator Works

In this lecture I show you how a basic AstralPool E25 salt chlorinator system works, using a newly installed unit as the example. The E25 is a simple, reliable salt chlorinator that produces up to 25 g/hr of chlorine, with a controller (power pack) and a salt cell installed in the return line back to the pool.

You will learn:

• How water should flow through the cell, and why the cell must be installed on the return line after the filter and any heater or heat pump connections

• How to use the controller’s modes: Auto (timer-based), Manual (runs continuously), and Off (stays off)

• How to set the clock and program the two daily timer periods (Timer 1 and Timer 2) so the chlorinator can switch the pump on during scheduled run times

• How the output setting works (P1 to P8), what those numbers mean in real terms, and how changing output affects chlorine production

Salt level and basic setup notes (important):

• The E25 requires salt in the water to operate. One Astral E25 manual states a recommended salt level of 6,000 ppm and an operating range of 4,000 to 6,000 ppm.

• Astral’s newer E Series documentation also notes salt efficiency changes with water temperature (higher salt needed in colder water, lower salt needed in warmer water).

• For safety and reliability, follow the installation guidance: correct flow direction, cell positioned as the last piece of equipment in the return line, and avoid plumbing that can trap gas.

Practical takeaway (how I recommend you adjust it):
If chlorine is running high or low, it’s often better to adjust daily run hours first (time on the timer), then fine-tune output only when you need longer filtration time for other equipment like a heater but still want to control chlorine production.

Bigger picture:
This is a “basic” chlorinator setup, and most residential chlorination systems follow the same core idea: pump running, water flowing through a cell, and the controller managing run times and output. Higher-end systems may be more powerful, run at different salt levels, or add automation features like ORP (chlorine) sensing to automatically reduce output, plus pH monitoring with acid dosing. If you come across those systems, always read the specific manual thoroughly before changing settings, because sensors, calibration, and dosing equipment introduce extra steps and safety considerations.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Test kit and toolbox overview

Clear water can still be chemically unbalanced. Accurate testing starts with having the right tools and knowing what each one is used for. The equipment covered includes:

• Liquid dye test kit (2-in-1 or 4-in-1) with a dual test tube for free chlorine and pH

• DPD No.1 tablets for chlorine testing (colour change indicates level)

• Phenol Red drops for pH testing (colour scale indicates pH)

• Test strips (4-in-1 or 5-in-1) commonly used to check total alkalinity and calcium

• Cyanuric acid (stabiliser) test tube kit and tablets

• Digital salt meter (ppm)

• Phosphate test kit (colour change shows phosphate presence)

All test kits and chemicals vary by brand. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the products you use.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Testing and balancing fundamentals

Pool water can look clean but still have poor hygiene or balance. Testing at every service confirms what is happening in the water and guides what to adjust. A standard service commonly checks up to seven key readings:

1. Free chlorine (typical target 1.0 to 2.0 ppm)

2. pH (typical target 7.4 to 7.6)

3. Total alkalinity (typical target 80 to 120 ppm)

4. Calcium hardness (typical target 150 to 400 ppm)

5. Stabiliser (cyanuric acid) (ideal 20 to 30 ppm, avoid exceeding 50 ppm)

6. Salt (for salt pools, ppm varies by chlorinator model)

7. Phosphates (aim to keep low, often under 100)

Interpreting results and what to do next

• If chlorine is low or zero, investigate likely causes (run time, salt level, phosphate load, scaling on the salt cell, or lack of chlorine generation). Until the cause is fixed, add chlorine to prevent algae and a green pool.

• pH high is typically corrected with hydrochloric acid. pH low is typically corrected with soda ash, noting the relationship between pH and total alkalinity.

• If both pH and total alkalinity are low, it is often better to raise alkalinity first rather than adding multiple products.

• High calcium can contribute to scale and can affect salt cells.

• Stabiliser takes time to dissolve and excess stabiliser generally requires water replacement to reduce it.

• Salt requirements vary. Some chlorinators run around 3,000 ppm while others need around 6,000 ppm. Know the model requirement before adding salt.

• Phosphate treatment can cloud the water temporarily while the filter clears the bound particles.

Chemical addition basics

• Do not mix granular and liquid chlorine.

• Add granular products via the skimmer (with pump running).

• Add liquids slowly in front of a return jet (with pump running).

• If adding more than one chemical, allow a short gap between additions and keep the pump running to circulate properly.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

The Pool Service Log Sheet

The PoolServ Service Log Sheet was created as a bonus for regular and membership customers.

It follows the same concept as a car service log. It is completed at every service (monthly or every 28 days, depending on the schedule) and dated, with a record of the work completed and any chemicals added on that visit.

For the customer, the benefit is a written history of the pool’s upkeep and the condition of the water and equipment. This can add value when selling the property. For the technician, it is a reliable reference point for previous readings, past treatments, and any ongoing issues.

Because it also records new equipment installed, it becomes a quick “history check” for the pool. Many real estate agents view this as an extra selling feature for prospective home buyers.

For that reason, it is often “too good to lose” for customers. It can also be used as an upsell tool for new customers who are weighing up the benefits of signing up to a servicing membership, which can help build long-term loyalty.

The service log is a Word document branded with your business details such as your logo, address, email, ABN, and any relevant online contact points. The document should look professional.

The service log is kept near the pool equipment so it is always accessible to the pool technician and pool owner. Because it may be stored outside or in a shed, it should be laminated for weather protection. Use a permanent marker so the information will not rub off. If it is not left in direct sunlight, it will last a long time.

How to fill it out

1. Record the service date.

2. Enter test results from the standard water checks:

3. • Free chlorine

   • pH

   • Total alkalinity

   • Stabiliser (cyanuric acid)

   • Calcium hardness

   • Salt (if applicable)

4. Use the “Notes” section to record work completed, job codes (from the key at the bottom), and any chemicals added.

5. Use the bottom sections to record:

6. • Phosphate results (record positives and note “treated” when applicable)

   • Pool technician notes (equipment issues, repairs needed, extras completed, or new equipment installed)

It is highly recommended to use a service log system. It keeps your servicing consistent, helps you track chemical trends, and improves communication with the customer.

If the customer is not home during the service, they can check the log when they return, see what was done and what was added, and follow up if anything needs clarification. This helps build trust, professionalism, and long-term customer loyalty.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Chemicals and Treatments Used

It’s vital that you understand how to use and store the chemicals you handle as a pool technician.

Below are common chemicals and treatments used to maintain residential swimming pools.

Please note

• Always source and read the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for every chemical or treatment you buy and use. This protects you, the customer, the environment, and wildlife.

• Never mix chemicals.

• Always follow the product label and dosing instructions.

• You will not use every chemical on every pool, every visit.

I categorise products into two groups:

• Normal pool chemicals: used during regular servicing when needed to balance and sanitise water.

• Special treatments: used when there’s a specific issue, such as algae, black spot, cloudy water, high calcium, phosphates, or when flocculant is required.

There are many other products on the market (stain removers, spa care, winter solutions, bio-film products, and more), but you may rarely need them unless you specialise.

Normal Pool Chemicals & Treatments

20L Liquid Chlorine

• Controls algae and bacteria in indoor and outdoor pools

• Suitable for daily chlorination or shock dosing

• Typically very alkaline (around pH 12 to 13)

20L Hydrochloric Acid

• Lowers pH

• Helps reduce total alkalinity (depending on conditions and dosing)

Granulated Pool Chlorine

• Fast-acting chlorine for sanitising and shocking

• Helps kill algae and bacteria

Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate) 25kg

• Raises pH quickly

Alkalinity Increaser 25kg

• Raises total alkalinity

• Helps stabilise pH and reduce rapid pH swings

Cyanuric Acid (Stabiliser) 25kg

• Helps protect chlorine from sunlight (outdoor pools)

• Typical target range is about 20 to 30 ppm

• Avoid exceeding 50 ppm

Liquid Clarifier

• Helps restore clarity to dull or cloudy water by improving filtration

Special Treatments

Liquid Algaecide (Copper Based)

• Used to help control algae

• Follow label instructions carefully, and be mindful of copper build-up and staining risk

Flocculant (Liquid or Powder)

• Used to drop suspended debris and dead algae to the pool floor for vacuuming to waste

• Often works within 3 to 6 hours (varies by product and conditions)

Black Spot Algae Killer

• Used for black spot algae infestations

• Follow the specific product method, as treatment usually requires repeated steps

Phosphate Remover

• Reduces phosphates (algae nutrients) to help limit algae growth

• Always follow label directions and filter cleaning guidance

Calcium Hardness Increaser (Calcium Hardener)

• Raises calcium hardness

• Typical target range is about 200 to 500 ppm (varies by surface type and manufacturer guidance)

Calcium Hardness Reducer

• Used to help lower calcium hardness or manage scale risk (product dependent)

• Follow label instructions and confirm compatibility with your sanitiser and pool finish

Pool Salt 20kg

• Standard sodium chloride (NaCl) used in salt chlorinated pools

• Salt dissolves in the water and the chlorinator converts it to free chlorine for sanitising

• Always test salt level and follow the chlorinator manufacturer’s target range

Brand note
I do not include brand names because availability varies by supplier. Your local pool chemical supplier can advise on what they stock and what they recommend.
Please note: Many of the chemicals and treatments listed are available in different sizes, for example 2kg, 4kg, 5kg, 10kg, 20kg, and 25kg bags, and 1L, 2L, 5L, 10L, and 25L liquids (and other sizes). Check what is available in your country or area.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Adding chemicals and treatments to a residential pool (PoolServ method, with label-first rules)

Before adding anything, I always test the water, confirm what the pool actually needs, and then read the product label and MSDS for the exact application method, dose, and safety steps. Labels vary by product and country, and the label is the final authority for how that chemical must be applied.

Core safety rules (non negotiable)

• Never mix chemicals. Add them separately and allow circulation time between additions.

• Use PPE as required (gloves, eye protection) and handle acids carefully. Many guides also stress add acid to water, not water to acid, if diluting.
  

1) Liquid chemicals and treatments (chlorine, hydrochloric acid, liquid algaecide, phosphate remover, clarifier, black spot treatments, flocculant)

Best practice: with the pump running, gently pour the liquid in a slow stream in front of a return jet. The return flow helps disperse the chemical quickly through the pool.

Important: acid and chlorine must be added separately and never combined. Space them out and let the pool circulate between additions.

2) Powders and granular chemicals (soda ash, alkalinity increaser, stabiliser, granular chlorine, calcium hardness increaser, some flocculants)

Many manufacturers recommend pre-dissolving some granules in a bucket and then adding to the pool, particularly for granular chlorine products.

PoolServ method (as shown in the video): where the label allows it, I add powders or granules via the skimmer box with the basket in place while the pump is running, so the product is drawn through the system and returned through the jets.

Update: use a skimmer sock whenever possible

Where possible, I now recommend using a skimmer sock:

1. Put the powder or granules into the skimmer sock

2. Tie a knot in the top

3. Place the sock into the skimmer basket with the pump running

This slows the dissolve rate and reduces the chance of undissolved product travelling as concentrated granules.

Why the update matters, especially for granular chlorine

We have found that adding granular chlorine directly into the skimmer can create issues in some systems over time, particularly with laterals in older sand filters.

3) Salt (20 kg bags)

Salt is typically added by broadcasting it into the pool and brushing to help it dissolve, then running circulation until fully dissolved. Always target the chlorinator manufacturer’s salt range.

Practical habit to keep you safe and consistent

• Add one chemical at a time, circulate, then retest if needed.

• Keep everything label-led, and back it up with the MSDS for storage and handling.
  

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Adding Granular Chlorine And Stabiliser

In this video, I show you how I add granular chlorine and granular stabiliser (cyanuric acid) to a residential swimming pool using the skimmer box method while the pump is running. You will see the correct setup with the skimmer basket in place, and how circulation pulls the product through the system and distributes it back into the pool through the return jets.

Important: Always read the product label and follow the manufacturer’s recommended dosing and application method. Labels can vary between countries and brands, and the label is the final authority.

Update: use a skimmer sock whenever possible

Where possible, I now recommend using a skimmer sock:

1. Put the powder or granules into the skimmer sock

2. Tie a knot in the top

3. Place the sock into the skimmer basket with the pump running

This slows the dissolve rate and reduces the chance of undissolved product travelling as concentrated granules.

Why the update matters, especially for granular chlorine

We have found that adding granular chlorine directly into the skimmer can create issues in some systems over time, particularly with the laterals in older sand filters.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Black Spot Algae in Residential Pools

Black spot algae (often called black algae) shows up as dark, stubborn spots on pool walls and floors, most commonly in low-circulation areas like steps, corners, and shaded sections. It is hard to remove because it can form a protective layer and anchor into porous or textured surfaces, so normal chlorine levels and light brushing often will not shift it.

The best results usually come from a combined approach:

• Balance water first so sanitiser works properly (many guides recommend keeping pH in the effective range for chlorine).

• Brush firmly to break the protective layer so chemicals can reach it.

• Maintain good circulation and filtration during treatment.

Black Spot Algae Liquid Treatment

A black spot liquid treatment is designed to target and kill black spot algae and is typically used alongside brushing and correct water balance. Copper-based black spot treatments can be effective, but they must be used carefully because incorrect use can increase the risk of staining, and some guidance warns against adding alkaline products during treatment. Always follow the label directions exactly.

Label-first rule (non negotiable)

Always read the product label before dosing and application. Brands vary, strengths vary, and instructions vary. The label is the final authority for dose rates, contact time, filtering instructions, and what not to add before or after treatment.

PoolServ method for adding liquid treatments

With the pump running, gently pour the black spot liquid treatment slowly in front of a return jet. This helps disperse and spread the liquid quickly through the pool water.

General dosing guide (always confirm on the label)

As a general guide, you can add around 0.5L to 1L depending on the pool size and severity. For very large pools (for example over 100,000 litres), re-check the label for the correct dose rate and adjust accordingly rather than guessing.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Dispensing 20 Litres To 1 Litre Of Chemicals And Treatments

In this video, I show you how to safely and neatly dispense liquid pool chemicals and treatments from a 20L drum into 1L bottles. This makes your day-to-day work easier, reduces waste, and helps you control costs.

Why I do this

• Smaller bottles are faster and easier to handle on-site than carrying full 20L drums.

• Better cost control: buying in bulk and dispensing correctly can reduce your cost per litre.

Non negotiables

• Label first: always read the product label and SDS before handling or transferring chemicals so you follow the correct safety, storage, and handling instructions.

• Keep products honest: only dispense the same chemical and brand into the matching bottle. Never put a cheaper product into a premium bottle. That is deception.

• Use the correct container: use bottles that are suitable for that chemical, in good condition, and dedicated to that product.

• Never use drink bottles or any food containers for chemicals, and never leave unlabelled chemicals lying around.

PoolServ method shown in the video

• I use a red dispensing cap that screws onto the 20L drum, allowing controlled pouring into 1L bottles with less mess and less risk of splashes.

Extra best practice to add (recommended) ( If the bottle you dispense to are blank with no label.)

• Label your 1L bottles clearly with the product name at minimum, and include hazard info if the bottle will be stored or transported. Workplace guidance in Australia requires correct labelling for hazardous chemicals, including when they are decanted from the original container.

• Decant in a safe area with good ventilation, away from kids, pets, and anything you do not want contaminated.

• Prevent cross-contamination: do not reuse containers that previously held another chemical unless they are properly cleaned and confirmed compatible.

• Spill readiness: have water for rinsing splashes (as per label), and an appropriate absorbent for spills as advised by the MSDS.
  
  Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Setting up a manual pool vacuum via the skimmer box.

What you need

• Vacuum head (use a standard wide head for floors, and a smaller head for corners, steps, and tight areas)

• Telescopic pole

• Vacuum hose long enough to reach the furthest point of the pool

• Skimmer vacuum plate (skim vac)

• Weir adaptor or elbow adaptor (depends on the skimmer plate and hose)

• Patience

Step 1: Prep the equipment

1. Clip the vacuum head onto the telescopic pole.

2. Push one end of the vacuum hose onto the vacuum head’s hose cuff so it is firmly seated.

Step 2: Prime the hose (pre-fill with water)

1. Put the vacuum head into the pool and lower it to the floor.

2. Feed the hose into the pool hand-over-hand until the entire hose fills with water (you want to remove air from the hose).

This step matters because air in the hose reduces suction and increases the chance of the pump pulling air.

Step 3: Fit the skimmer plate and connect the weir adaptor

1. Make sure the skimmer basket is in place.

2. Fit the vacuum plate on top of the skimmer basket so it seals properly (each model locks/seats slightly differently).

3. Fit the weir adaptor or elbow adaptor into the vacuum plate, then connect the hose end to the adaptor.

Optional best practice: put a skimmer sock in the skimmer basket before vacuuming to catch finer debris and reduce what reaches the pump basket and filter.

Step 4: Start suction and vacuum

1. Ensure the filter valve is set correctly for what you are doing (normally Filter, unless you are intentionally vacuuming to waste).

2. Turn the pump on (or keep it running if you connected it safely) and confirm strong suction at the vacuum head.

3. Vacuum slowly and methodically. Rushing stirs debris and clouds the water.

Critical rule: do not lift the vacuum head out of the water while connected

If the vacuum head comes out of the water while the hose is still connected to the skimmer plate, the system can suck air, which can de-prime the pump and stop suction.

When you are finished:

• Leave the vacuum head in the water.

• Turn the pump off if needed, then disconnect at the skimmer plate, then remove the gear.

Quick troubleshooting tips

• Weak suction: check hose is fully water-filled, skimmer plate is sealed, pump basket is full of water, and skimmer basket is not clogged.

• Lots of air bubbles at returns: you are pulling air somewhere (hose not primed, plate not sealed, low water level, or loose connections)

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Cleaning a Pool and Vacuuming

Ask the pool owner to remove the pool blanket before you arrive, so any debris caught on the blanket can settle to the pool floor.

On your first inspection, assess the pool floor and water condition so you can plan the quickest course of action. If the water level is low, place the garden hose in the pool and top it up while you work. Remember to turn it off before you leave. Preparation is key to doing a good job in the time you have allocated.

An average pool clean includes

• Scoop leaves and debris from the surface using a net or leaf rake

• Brush the waterline

• Remove any large items from the pool floor (twigs, branches, etc.)

• Vacuum the pool floor

• Empty the skimmer box basket

Be careful when removing items from a dirty pool floor, as it can disturb settled debris and cloud the water. In some cases, it is better to vacuum first and remove large items afterwards.

Vacuum setup and method

After switching on the system, check water flow and suction.

1. Attach the vac head to the telescopic pole.

2. Attach the vacuum hose to the vac head.

3. Holding the pole with one hand and the hose with the other, lower the vac head into the water until it reaches the pool floor.

4. Extend the pole so it will not fall into the pool when you let it go.

5. Feed the hose into the water so the entire hose fills with water. Do this near the skimmer box or vacuum point.

6. Make sure the skimmer basket is in place.

7. Fit the elbow adaptor to the end of the hose.

8. Fit the vacuum plate on top of the skimmer basket.

9. Feed the hose through the skimmer opening and connect it to the vacuum plate.

10. It is ideal to have the pump running during connection to confirm there is adequate suction.

11. Before vacuuming, confirm the sand filter is set to Filter.

12. Vacuum slowly and methodically, working from the deep end to the shallow end.

When finished vacuuming

Once the pool is clean of debris and dirt:

• Lay the pole (still connected to the hose and vac head) in the water.

• Do not remove the vac head from the water until you have removed the hose from the suction plate, otherwise the pump may suck air and de-prime.

• Switch off the system and do a quick visual check while the water is still.

• If you see missed dirt or debris, switch the system back on and re-vacuum those areas.

• When satisfied, remove the hose from the suction plate.

• Remove the suction plate to prevent whirlpooling.

• Remove the pole and vac head, then pull out and roll up the hose ready for the van.

• Re-check the surface for floating debris, brush the sides as needed, then scoop any remaining debris.

Arrange all equipment ready to return to the van.

Post-cleaning checklist

• Add chemicals and salt if needed

• Carry out equipment maintenance if required (for example backwash, see backwashing)

• Ensure equipment is switched back to Auto

• Confirm skimmer basket is in and the lid is on

• Turn off and remove the water hose if used

• Leave the property with respect

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Skimmer Basket and Vacuum Plate Connection

Most residential pools use a skimmer box with a removable skimmer basket. The basket catches larger debris before it reaches the pump basket and filter. A vacuum plate (skim vac plate) sits on top of the skimmer basket and creates a sealed suction point so you can connect a manual vacuum hose or a suction-type automatic cleaner without removing the basket. A poor seal or a warped plate can reduce suction and performance.

In this video, I show you how to correctly fit the skimmer basket into the skimmer box so it sits level and seals properly, with no gaps that can allow air into the system. I then demonstrate how to fit the vacuum plate, including the Paramount SP5000, so it seats correctly on the basket and provides a strong, consistent vacuum connection.

You will also see how to confirm you have good suction, and how to use a three-speed pool pump by switching it up to maximum speed when you need the most vacuum power for manual vacuuming.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

Pool Vacuuming To Waste

In this lecture, I take you through a real vacuum-to-waste job after a flocculent treatment that was added two days earlier. You will see exactly what floc looks like once it has done its job, a very fine, ash-like layer sitting on the pool floor and steps, and I explain why that matters for the way you vacuum.

I break down the correct method for vacuuming so you do not stir the floc back into suspension. If you move too fast, it plumes into the water, starts floating again, and can take a long time to settle back down. That is why slow, controlled movements are essential, especially when the debris is this light and fine. I also show you how to work in neat rows, then turn at the end and come back, so you cover the entire pool systematically. This back-and-forth pattern helps you avoid missing patches and stops you from wasting time re-vacuuming the same areas.

I also explain the key difference between vacuuming on filter versus vacuuming to waste. For normal dirt and leaves, vacuuming on filter is fine. But after floccing, you cannot send this material through the filter because it is so fine it can pass through and return into the pool through the jets. In this situation, it needs to go straight to waste.

Because vacuuming to waste sends water out of the pool, I highlight the practical side too, including the approximate water loss (around 200 litres per minute). You will learn why planning matters, and how using an efficient vacuuming pattern reduces the time on waste and helps minimise unnecessary water loss.

To wrap up, I show you what I do once the vacuuming is complete, including going to the filter for a backwash, following it with a short rinse (around 20 seconds), and then returning the system to filter so everything is set up correctly again. This lecture gives you a clear, repeatable process you can use whenever you need to vacuum floc to waste without undoing the work the flocculent has done.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

External Pool Pump Set Up For Vacuuming

In this lecture, an external vacuum pump setup is explained and demonstrated for situations where the pool’s existing pump cannot be used for vacuuming due to a fault in the system. This commonly happens when the pool runs normally on circulation, but as soon as a vacuum load is applied the pump deprimes, indicating a suction-side issue such as a skimmer problem, a valve restriction, or underground pipework that cannot maintain flow under vacuum.

The lecture covers why normal vacuuming is not possible in this scenario, and why blocking one suction point to increase suction on another can starve the pump of water and cause it to lose prime. From there, the correct workaround is shown using a separate one-horsepower external pump to achieve full vacuum without relying on the faulty suction line.

The setup is broken down step by step, including connecting PVC pipework to the inlet of the external pump, using rubber couplers for tight seals, and keeping the suction connection fully underwater to prevent air being drawn in. Airtight connections are emphasised because even a small air leak can cause the external pump to deprime itself. The discharge side is then routed through the original sand filter so the water continues to be filtered and returned to the pool as normal.

An important distinction is also explained between vacuuming to waste and vacuuming through the filter. In this case the issue is dirt only, not algae, so there is no need to send water to waste. Running the external pump through the filter keeps the pool from losing water while still allowing proper cleaning.

Finally, the lecture covers practical operation, including priming the external pump, powering it from a separate outlet, switching it on, confirming strong water flow, and checking for minor leaks at joints. The system is shown operating correctly with water returning through the jets, and normal circulation components such as the chlorinator still receiving flow.

By the end, the full method is clear for restoring vacuum capability using an external pump, while keeping filtration running and avoiding unnecessary water loss when the main system cannot vacuum normally.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

ACID CLEANING SALT CELL

During a pool service, the equipment should always be checked and maintained, not just for general operation but for condition, wear and tear, sun damage, leaks where seals may need lubricating, and calcium build-up inside the chlorinator salt cell.

Calcium scale is often visible through the clear Perspex housing as a white, flaky formation on the cell plates. If this residue is not removed, it can reduce chlorine production or cause the cell to stop making chlorine altogether. Scale can also break off, travel through the system, return through the jets, and settle on the pool floor.

This lecture covers how to inspect the salt cell, when it is safe to simply reinstall it, and when cleaning is required. The process begins with flushing the plates using a high-pressure garden hose. If scale remains, careful cleaning is shown using a plastic or wooden tool to avoid damaging the plates, and then progressing to acid cleaning only when needed.

Acid cleaning is demonstrated using a safe mixing method in a plastic container with a 3:1 water to hydrochloric acid solution (for example, a 1-litre mix using 550 ml water and 450 ml pool acid). The cell is soaked for 10 to 15 minutes while the solution fizzes and bubbles as it dissolves the scale. The cell is then rinsed thoroughly and refitted, repeating the soak only if deposits remain.

A second method is also explained for systems where the cell housing can be removed with the cell still inside. In this setup, the housing can be used as the cleaning container by turning it upside down, filling it with the solution, allowing it to soak, then disposing of the contents safely before refitting.

Safety is emphasised throughout. Always wear gloves, eye protection, and a suitable mask, keep the container stable to prevent spills, avoid fumes, and remember the key rule: always add acid to water, never add water to acid. Any leftover solution should be stored or disposed of in line with the manufacturer guidance and MSDS.

Final steps include restarting the system, confirming water flow, checking for leaks, ensuring the chlorinator is back on Auto, and confirming the cell is producing chlorine.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

ACID CLEANING THE CELL IN ITS OWN HOUSING

During a pool service, salt chlorinator cells should be inspected regularly for calcium build-up, wear, and general condition. Calcium scale commonly appears as a white, flaky residue on the cell plates and can reduce chlorine output or stop chlorine production if left untreated.

This lecture focuses on an alternative acid-cleaning method where the salt cell is cleaned inside its own housing, rather than being removed and placed in a separate container. This method is suitable for systems where the cell housing can be disconnected from the pipework while the cell remains installed inside it.

The process is shown from start to finish, beginning with isolating the system, disconnecting the cell housing from the pool pipes, and placing it safely on the ground with the union connections facing upwards. Water is added first, taken directly from the pool, and then pool acid is added to create the cleaning solution inside the housing itself. The housing is used as the container, eliminating the need for a jug or separate vessel.

The cell is left to soak for around 5 to 10 minutes while the solution fizzes and dissolves the calcium scale. Once clean, the solution is carefully poured back into the pool, where it can assist with lowering pH if required. The housing is then reinstalled onto the pipework, and the system is restarted.

Final checks include confirming water flow, checking for leaks at the unions, ensuring the chlorinator is set back to Auto, and confirming the cell is producing chlorine.

Safety is emphasised throughout. Always wear gloves, eye protection, and a suitable mask, keep the housing stable while cleaning, avoid fumes, and follow the key rule at all times: always add acid to water, never add water to acid. Any handling, storage, or disposal of acid should follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and MSDS.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

HOW TO CLEAN A CARTRIDGE FILTER ELEMENT

Correct cartridge filter maintenance is a core skill in pool servicing because it directly affects water clarity, circulation, and overall equipment performance. In this lecture, the full process is demonstrated for cleaning a cartridge filter element (such as an Astral ZX150 or similar) using only the water pressure from a standard garden hose.

The lecture starts with the correct shutdown procedure. The pump is turned off and the controller is taken off Auto so the system cannot start on a timer while the filter is open or the element is removed. The filter housing is then depressurised safely by opening the bleed screw on the cartridge filter lid. This step releases trapped pressure and air before the lid is loosened, making the job safer and preventing the lid from being forced up under pressure.

Once the lid is removed and the element is taken out, the cleaning method is shown in a simple, repeatable way. The cartridge is cleaned from the top down, working section by section so debris and fine particles are washed out of the pleats rather than pushed further into them. A normal garden hose provides enough pressure when the nozzle is aimed correctly. The lecture shows how to direct the water into the pleats at a consistent angle and distance, taking time to open up each pleat line and flush out trapped dirt. When done properly, the cleaning process typically takes around 10 to 15 minutes depending on how dirty the element is.

After cleaning, the element is refitted and the housing is reassembled correctly. Restarting is handled the right way by bleeding air again through the bleed screw while the pump is running, allowing the filter to fill properly and preventing air locks. The bleed screw is closed once a steady stream of water is flowing.

Final checks are covered to finish the job professionally. This includes confirming normal water flow back to the pool, watching the pressure gauge settle into the expected range for that system, and inspecting the lid seal and all unions for leaks.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

HOW TO BACKWASH A SAND FILTER

Maintaining strong water flow is a key part of professional pool servicing. A sand filter removes dirt and debris as water circulates through the system on timed intervals, but as the sand bed traps more contaminants, flow reduces and filter pressure rises. Backwashing restores performance by reversing the water flow through the filter and flushing trapped dirt out through the waste line.

This lecture explains when to backwash and why it matters. A backwash is recommended after heavy vacuuming, when suction has been reduced by large amounts of dirt and debris, and when the filter pressure gauge reads around 8 to 10 psi above the clean starting pressure (some systems may show reduced flow earlier). The difference between normal filtration flow (top to bottom through the sand bed) and backwash flow (bottom to top through the laterals and sand) is clearly explained.

The common valve type is a "Multiport Valve" (typically 6 positions)

Safety is emphasised throughout. Always turn the pump off before moving the filter valve to prevent gasket damage, water hammer, and possible equipment failure. Multiport positions are explained in practical terms, including Filter, Backwash, Rinse, Recirculate, Waste/Drain, and Closed, plus the critical warning not to run the pump on Closed.

A full backwash and rinse procedure is demonstrated for a multiport valve, including rolling out the backwash hose, switching to Backwash, monitoring for pressure spikes or hose kinks, running backwash until water clears (commonly 1 to 2 minutes), then using Rinse for around 15 seconds before returning the valve to Filter.

Final checks are included so the job is finished correctly: confirm pressure drops back down, check return flow at the jets or water features, confirm there are no leaks, and make sure no water is running down the waste line. .

Darren F Heath & PoolServ

This lesson covers the health and safety basics needed for professional pool servicing, including WHS responsibilities, first aid readiness, and the correct use of PPE. It explains why the pump must be isolated before working on equipment, how to reduce common risks such as chemical exposure, electric shock, manual handling injuries, and slips and trips, and what safety items should always be kept in the vehicle. A practical PPE and safety checklist is included so safe habits become part of every service call.

Darren F Heath & PoolServ