
Brief intro video defining the courses overall. TLDR:
Training videos fully scripted + kind of fast paced.
Annotations scattered throughout with meaningful insights.
Replay + pause to fully absorb info.
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photoshop overview
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Let's begin with a general overview.
Notice the following main areas.
Here we have the main menu, the toolbar, and the property bar.
You'll notice that the property bar changes according to the selected tool.
Applying proper tool settings for any given task is immensely important.
On the right side of the screen are several window panels.
Each of these provide specific functionality depending on what you need to get done.
The layers panel here is important, as you will be using it often.
You can easily re-arrange these to suit your preference. Just drag them around.
If you messed up and wish to reset, go to Window, Workspace, and hit Reset Essentials, which is the default.
Notice that the window menu also has the complete list of all panels.
The tick icon indicates that this is already open.
So should you find any panel missing, please use this menu to access them.
I will now explain a number of seemingly random items.
However it is crucial for us to get these things sorted out quickly.
Pay attention to this function, also called the history window.
It allows you to undo previous actions.
Recall that you can also open this via the Windows menu.
I recommend expanding the window for better viewing.
Then click on the labels to go back and forth along the history timeline.
The default limit for history states is 50 for Photoshop CC but only 20 for CS6 version
You can increase this by going to Edit > Preferences > Performance.
And then modify the History States setting.
Please use a sensible limit. Setting this too high may result in fatal explosions.
Next, let's address the Move Tool, which is used to move objects around.
Click this icon or just press 'V' on your keyboard to select it.
It's a good idea to have this tool selected if you are not doing anything specific,
Important: Please ensure that Auto Select and Show Transform Controls are checked.
Auto Select allows you to directly select any object simply by clicking it.
If you do not check this, then you must select an object by using the layer window instead.
That other option, called Show Transform Controls activates these handles that allow you to resize and rotate images.
Checking both these options is recommended for your convenience moving forward.
Next, let's get into zooming and panning. We'll use File, Open to load up an image.
Zooming is easily done using the CTRL/COMMAND plus or minus shortcuts.
Expect to use these shortcuts very often.
You can also use the Zoom Tool, but I do not recommend getting used to that.
Panning is performed easily using spacebar.
To move around the screen, hold spacebar and then click and drag with the mouse.
You can also use the scroll bars, although I do not recommend that.
If you are unable to pan around, it is possible that you are not zoomed in enough.
Simply zoom in more and you should be able to pan around.
However, there is a global mode switch that allows unrestricted panning.
Pressing the 'F' key cycles between 3 different modes.
The first is the default mode. It offers these tabs when you open multiple files, but restricts panning when zoomed out.
In this mode, zoomed out images will always be centered.
The second mode allows unrestricted panning but removes the multiple file tabs.
So in order to switch files here, you'd have to use the Windows menu dropdown.
The final mode is minimalist in style and possibly ideal for showcasing your work within Photoshop.
You should also be aware of the tab shortcut key.
This toggles all windows and toolbars if you want to view your work without clutter.
It may be common for beginners to accidentally press this and then get stuck.
Next, lets address the 100% zoom view.
Consider the fact that you can zoom in or out any image. What then is the actual size, or view, of this image?
Answer: It is the 100 percent view. This can be seen at the tab title.
Simply zoom in or out until you hit 100%, which is actual size display.
Do not make the mistake of judging an image using an incorrect zoom.
Actual quality of an image, should be determined at the 100% view.
To get the size in pixels, go to Image, and then Image Size.
This is also where you can resize the image, which we will cover in another session.
Pixel width and length measurement is also called image dimension.
Well, that concludes our overview. Time to Level Up and proceed to the next segment.
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general photo improvement
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There are many methods to perform general photo enhancement.
In this segment we will explore one particular way of doing it.
First, notice that this photo was taken at a tilted angle.
We will use the ruler tool to correct this.
Select it by right clicking this icon or hit SHIFT + I several times until you get ruler tool icon.
Then use it to drag a line parallel to the slanted line.
Next go to Image > Image Rotation > Arbitrary
You'll notice that the angle and clockwise rotation have been auto detected based on the ruler.
Click OK to apply.
We have corrected the tilt, but in doing so created undesirable spacing around it.
An easy way to fix this is to crop the image.
Select the crop tool by clicking this icon, or hit SHIFT + C several times.
Drag a box within the image boundary and adjust each side accordingly.
To apply this, click the Check Icon at the upper right area.
Don't leave the crop tool selected. It is a good if idea to always go back to the Move Tool, when idle.
Now we are ready to do a simple 4 step enhancement process:
Let's begin with Exposure Correction.
Go to Image > Adjustment > Levels or just hit CTRL/COMMAND + L to open the Levels Window.
From here, I would like to recommend 2 different ways to modify exposure.
First is the manual way that requires you to adjust these three little tabs yourself.
The leftmost, dark tab is called the Shadow Tab, and affects the darkest areas strongly.
The middle tab, called the midtone is in charge of ,well....the midtones.
And the rightmost tab, called the Highlights strongly modifies the brightest areas.
Do not over complicate it: Shadow, Midtones and Highlights refers to the dark, medium and bright tones.
If there are gaps at the extreme ends of the graph, you'll usually want to close them up like this.
Feel free to experiment here with different settings.
Use the Preview checkbox to compare results and hit OK if you are happy with it.
So you can manually adjust these settings as I had described. But there is a faster way.
We will undo the last step using the History window, in order to demonstrate the alternative method.
This time, when we get into Levels, click on this Auto button to allow Photoshop to determine the settings.
After that, please manually adjust the midtone slider.
Move it to the left to make it brighter, or to the right for the opposite effect.
Don't forget to compare results using Preview, and click OK when you are done.
Realise that there are several other methods to correct exposure.
This method is fast enough and performs adequately.
They've done studies y'know, 60% of the time it works, evertime.
Next let's enhance the colours.
This step however is optional and should not be applied if the image colors are already vibrant.
Go to Image > Adjustment > Curves or just hit CTRL/COMMAND + M to open the Curves Window.
A popular way to improve color is to use the S-Curve model, which is done with the following:
1. Click right in the center here to anchor midtones.
2. Pull the top right line slightly to the left
3. And finally, Pull the bottom left line slightly to the right
Notice how mild the curve should be. A bigger S-curve results in more drastic results.
Avoid over saturating the image. Sometimes a small improvement is just what we're looking for.
Remember to compare results by toggling the Preview checkbox.
Explanation in order:
What happened was that we reduced midtones, pushing some of it into shadows and highlights.
This creates a wider contrast between tones and in effect, results in a more punchy image.
You'll notice that the dark areas became darker, while the bright areas became brighter.
This has the downside of further darkening pixels that are already dark.
This may cause the loss of details such as texture, gloss, or other patterns.
So the next step aims to correct this situation.
Go to Image > Adjustment > Shadow/Highlight. This function does not have a default shortcut.
In most cases, you will only be using the Shadows Slider.
This is used to brighten up all the darkest areas of the image.
All you need to do here is to adjust the slider.
It always starts at 35% which is usually not ideal.
You have to decide this on a case by case basis depending on the image.
The Highlight slider at the bottom does the opposite, which is to darken the bright areas.
This may be useful in some cases, for example: outdoor photos.
Feel free to experiment with both settings as you wish.
As usual, check results using Preview and click OK to continue.
Image sharpening is usually performed last in most editing procedures.
Go to Filter > Sharpen > and select Smart Sharpen.
You should adjust these 3 sliders to sharpen the image to your liking.
The amounts required depend on the image quality, and also on the file size.
Bigger image dimensions, usually require slightly higher settings.
In summary, you should sharpen the image intuitively to your satisfaction.
For obvious demonstration purposes we will exaggerate the settings.
Drag the thumbnail screen around for a better view of this sharpening process.
You can also zoom in here. Recall that 100% is the actual view.
Hold down the left mouse button over the thumbnail box to compare results.
You can also use the Preview checkbox to compare the image outside the thumbnail.
That completes this general enhancement process.
Notice that all the modification made were global, affecting the entire image.
You may consider spot editing, which is to modify a specific area.
Hitting SHIFT + O cycles between the Dodge, Burn and Sponge Tools.
The Dodge tool allows you to selectively brighten an area.
To use it effectively, it is important to ensure correct tool settings for the task at hand.
Over here, you can adjust the brush size and hardness.
In most cases, you’d want 0 percent hardness, allowing the brush to have softer edges.
Range setting is also important, depending on the tones that you want to modify.
If you are unsure, simply test the results of all 3 and keep the best one.
Exposure setting is basically the strength of the brush.
A medium to low setting here is recommended, because it allows you to re-apply as much as needed.
Burn does the opposite of Dodge. It is used to darken areas instead.
All the settings for burn is similar to that of the dodge tool.
The sponge tool is used depending on an important Mode setting shown here.
On Desaturate, it allows you so gradually remove color from a specific area.
On Saturate it does the opposite and further saturates the colors.
Use a combination of these 3 tools to further enhance the image.
At the end, you may be interested to compare the final result with the original image.
To do this, go to File > and click on Revert.
This will cause the image to enter the timespace continuum, sending it back in time when you just opened it.
Then, just Hold CTRL/COMMAND while pressing the Z key several times to compare results.
You are simply using the default Undo function, which cycles between Undoing and Redoing.
There is one more thing I would like to add,
If you think that the end result is too saturated, and wish to tone down the overall colors.
Then just go to Image > Adjustment > and select Hue/Saturation.
This window provides slider settings for these 3 items.
For our current objective, we are interested only in the saturation slider.
You can tone down the colors by decreasing this slider.
Use preview as usual to compare results.
Additional Info:
The hue slider is used to change the overall color palette of the image.
This is useful when combo'ed with other tools to target specific areas.
The lightness slider is used for uncommon purposes, such as creating faded backdrops.
Well done! So now should be able to perform general photo enhancement.
It is important to note that the method we just covered is a destructive one.
This means that we directly modified the image, so if you overwrite it without making a separate backup, the originals are
destroyed.
A simple way around this issue is to use Save As instead, and save your edited work under a different filename.
This does not diminish the importance of learning how non-destructive editing works.
Which is done by making use of the Layers window, creating separate layers that can retain adjustable values for each process.
This way, the original image is kept intact within the same file.
We will cover non-destructive editing in a future session.
Also, this enhancement method is for editing regular bitmap images like jpg or png files.
It is unlike the RAW format, which can be described as ‘digital negatives’ from a capture device.
Our next session will cover basic RAW editing.
Time to Level up soldier!
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crop, resize, rotate & flip images
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In our last session we briefly covered the basics of cropping.
Let us now explore that in further detail.
Three very commonly used procedures are:
To crop the image without resizing.
To resize the image without cropping.
Or to both crop and resize the image, at the same time.
Realise that all 3 methods produce different results.
Number 1. Cropping images without resizing.
First, select the crop tool. Then ensure that these text boxes are empty.
If they contain input, you can remove it by clicking this clear button for the CC version.
Then, just drag a box within the image and adjust the sides as you wish.
When you are done, either press the enter key or click this check icon here.
The image is certainly smaller now, but not due to resizing.
The other tool options shown up here may be useful in some situations.
For example unchecking Delete Cropped Pixels allows you to use the move tool to reposition the image after cropping.
So then, lets move on to...
Number 2. Resizing without cropping.
Go to Image and then select Image Size. (Shortcut key)
Please ensure that the correct measurement setting is selected.
You can enter a new width or height value here to resize it.
Notice that height will adjust automatically according to the width, and vice versa.
This is to ensure that the image ratio is intact, preventing distortion.
However, you can override this by unlocking the aspect ratio. Click this icon to do so.
You may then freely enter any number for width & height.
Is most cases, you will likely prefer aspect ratio to be locked.
Resolution issues will be covered properly in a future video.
For now, keep in mind that 72 ppi is ideal for screen use, while 300 ppi is recommended for printing.
Avoid resizing small images substantially larger as this causes pixellation, an undesirable side effect.
Number 3: Resizing and Cropping at the same time.
Do this by selecting the crop tool, and then key in the required measurement in these text boxes.
In the following example, let's prepare a FB cover image.
Please ensure that you have selected W/H resolution from this dropdown.
We will type in the appropriate size in pixels, and then determine the area to crop.
It is important to be explicit and type in the sizes using cm, mm, in or px.
Hit Enter to apply this and then hit V to select the Move tool.
Consider double checking your results by going to Image > then Image Size to view the new dimensions.
All the three methods that we have just covered will be immensely useful.
For example: Border mergers happen when a subject is cut off at the edge.
Consider cropping out such things.
There are several such visual composition guidelines available online that you can look into.
You should also be aware that the crop tool can be used to expand the canvas area.
Instead of cropping smaller, just increase the crop area to expand it.
If Delete Cropped Pixels is checked, it will auto filled new spaces using the currently selected background color shown here.
If it is not checked, you will get transparent pixels instead.
The paint bucket tool can be used to re-color these areas.
Consider using this technique to create more space whenever you need it.
I would like to point out that Canvas Size shown here, is unlike Image size.
It allows you to modify the size of the canvas, without having any effect on the image.
The arrows in this grid represents the space that will expand around the image.
This can be useful when preparing game textures or for mouse over effects.
Now, lets get into rotating and flipping images.
Image rotation is easily done by going to Image > Image Rotation, and then selecting the desired angle.
You'll notice that the Flip commands are also found here and can be useful when you need them.
One problem that you may soon encounter, is that this function flips the entire image.
This simply means that all layers will be flipped.
In order to rotate or flip separate layers individually, go to Edit, and then select Transform.
You'll find a range of similar options. However these will only affect the currently selected layer.
Bringing in different images to arrange and modify using layers is part of Photoshop fun.
The very next session will address this topic.
For now, congratulations on your level soldier!
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extraction basics
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Extraction involves selecting parts of a photo, usually to place it onto another image.
Mastering this skill will surely serve you well.
It will allow you to accomplish all kinds of effects & unlock many other feats in the skill tree.
Before we get into proper extraction, let's quickly cover the most straightforward way of placing an image.
We will open 2 image files for this example.
You can switch between files by holding down CTRL/COMMAND and then hit the tab key multiple times.
First we must select the image by going to Select menu and choose All.
Copy it using Edit > Copy or just use the shortcut keys.
And then paste it onto the other image using Edit > Paste.
Notice that Photoshop automatically creates a new layer for this.
If you have imported several images and wish to re-arrange their ordering,
just go to the layers window and drag the individual layers upwards or downwards.
Hit V for the Move tool if you want to reposition, rotate or resize it.
An important shortcut key here is Shift.
While you are resizing hold down the SHIFT key to maintain proper ratio.
Simply dragging it freestyle, that is without holding shift, may distort the image.
Another useful shortcut is to hold CTRL/COMMAND while dragging the edges to match a perspective.
Notice that the image was copied over entirely.
Obviously, this method is not ideal sometimes.
Extraction is required if you want the image to be properly cut out.
If you open a file that has this checkered background, it means that this image has already been extracted.
The checkered background shown here represents transparent pixels.
So in this case, if you select all, copy & paste it as described earlier you will see that its nicely extracted.
Notice all the extra transparent space around this image.
An easy way to get minimise that space is by going to Image, then select Trim.
If you have transparency then make sure Transparent Pixels is checked.
If you have a solid background instead then you can try either of these 2 other options.
One more thing you must know, before we move on:
The bottom most layer in Photoshop shown here is called the background layer.
All jpgs or pngs contain this default background layer.
It is a unique layer with certain behaviours that you should be aware of.
The background layer cannot be repositioned and it will not allow transparent pixels.
This can be annoying at times, where you may want to bypass this limitation.
In Photoshop CC, make a single click on this padlock icon shown here.
(CS6 must double click > OK)
This will convert the background layer into a standard, regular layer.
Only then you can easily reposition it, or remove pixels in order to gain transparency.
It is perfectly fine for an image file not to have a designated background layer.
If you wish to reinstate the background layer, then first select the layer of your choice...
Then go to Layer menu, choose New and select Background from Layer.
That selected layer then becomes the background layer, and goes to the bottom.
If it previously contained any transparent pixels, those will revert to the background color instead.
Understanding these background layer nuances is important to prevent any confusion.
Now, onto extractions, which can be made in several ways:
1. Marquee Tools
Let's start with the Marquee Tools, which provide basic selection capability.
Both the Rectangular or Elliptical Marque Tools allows you to select an area.
The difference is obviously their shapes.
If you wish to enforce perfect squares or circles then please hold down the SHIFT key while dragging.
The Single Row versions are meant for very specific, zoomed in editing purposes.
Dno't worry too much about these ones for now.
The rectangular or elliptical versions are more commonly used and provide a basic way of extracting using shapes.
2. Magic Wand Tool
The Magic Wand Tool is ideal for subjects with a solid background color.
It is important that the background color differs well enough from the object color.
This is a very fast method of extraction but requires specific images with near solid backgrounds to be effective.
3. Polygonal Lasso Tool
The Polygonal Lasso Tool is perfect for objects that are mostly made up of straight lines.
It is a simple tool that many beginners can easily warm up to.
However it suffers when handling curvy lines and is hardly ideal for very organic shapes.
4. Pen Tool
The Pen Tool is versatile as it can handle both straight or curvy lines.
In fact, once you get familiar enough with this tool, you may possibly abandon the Polygonal Lasso altogether.
A possible downside is that it is one of the more difficult tools to master.
Also, it may be very powerful but it is also slow and tedious at times.
However, mastering the Pen Tool will be an extremely useful asset.
5. Quickmasking
Quickmask is yet another method that is meant to be fast, although less accurate compared to the other tools.
It is basically performed by coloring the object that you wish to select.
So as you can see, there is a variety of methods to extract an image.
This may depend on the image colors, or the shape of objects, or even your time constraints.
Understanding the nuances of these tools will help you to pick an ideal option based on your situation & objective.
In addition to these main selection tools, are various modification functions that allow you to fine tune your selection further.
The next several sessions will cover all these things in further detail.
Level up, and lets recap the basic stuff.
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magic wand tool
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The magic wand tool works by selecting all similar color tones within a specified tolerance range.
Notice that a selection is made based on the scope of color tones.
And if the result is not accurate, you may need to adjust the tolerance value.
Extracting subjects from a solid background is fairly easy.
Use the Magic Wand tool and click anywhere on the background.
A clean background that contrasts clearly with the object usually produces good results.
Unfortunately, having a background color that matches the object's color will be problematic.
(Such errors can be fixed with the help of other tools.)
Upon zooming in, you'll notice some areas that require attention.
One way to solve this is to readjust tolerance setting.
A higher tolerance will include a wider range of pixels, and vice versa.
This will also depend on the exact pixel that you clicked on, as it uses that sample to compute.
Let's try a more appropriate value in our example here.
To review again, please go to SELECT and then DESELECT, or just use shortcut keys to remove the current selection.
Use the Magic Wand and click on the background again.
Zoom in to check the selection.
Notice the improvement made due to optimising tolerance setting.
In actual practice you may have to decide this using a trial and error process.
Consider that we currently have the background selected, and not the subject.
Therefore we need to inverse this selection.
Go to the Select menu > an d choose Inverse.
So now we have the subject selected instead.
You can go to Edit menu to Copy the selection, and then paste it into another image.
If you prefer to save this as a standalone transparent image.
Then go to Edit and Copy the selection.
Next go to File and select New.
The image dimensions will be auto detected.
Set background contents dropdown to Transparent and click Create.
Notice the checkered background which represents transparency.
You should then save this file as a PNG, or PSD format to retain transparency.
Saving this as a JPG will cause all transparent pixels to become white.
There is one more thing,
The SHIFT key is an important shortcut when using the Magic Wand.
It allows you to add in additional areas.
Use this to include additional areas without having to exert tolerance.
This is especially useful in cases where a single tolerance value is insufficient to get the job done.
Lets also quickly review that one other tool under the same group called Quick Selection
It allows you to hold and drag to make a selection instead of using single clicks.
It is simply an alternative method that you can consider.
Inaccurate selections made by the magic wand can be repaired using other selection tools.
For example the polygonal lasso or the pen tool, can be used to make further modifications.
This is usually to repair imperfect selections, by way of adding or subtracting from the selection.
So then, we know that the magic wand works by identifying differences between colors.
There is another similar but different function that you should be aware of.
Select > Color Range shown here allows you to select all pixels of a certain color.
Choose a color selection by clicking directly on the canvas.
Adjust this fuzziness slider, to increase or decrease selection boundary.
The white area denotes the selection that will be generated.
You can easily get the opposite result by checking this Invert option.
This function affects the entire canvas regardless of pixel position.
On the other hand, the magic wand tool works differently by affecting pixels from the point of click. This may not affect the entire canvas.
A common way to use Color Range is to first sample the color that you want to select.
Do this by using the Eyedropper Tool and clicking on the target color.
Notice that the foreground color will be updated.
Go to Select, Color Range, and then adjust the fuzziness slider.
Determine how much color range you'd like to include, and hit OK.
You should get a selection of all similar colors tones within range.
This can then be used to perform a variety of things depending on your objective.
Next we will address the polygonal lasso tool.
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polygonal lasso tool
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The polygonal lasso tool is ideal for selections made up of straight lines.
Start with a single left click, and then proceed to click from point to point of the intended object.
You can hold the spacebar key to move around the image while working.
Also feel free to zoom in or out. It does not interfere with your selection.
To complete the selection at the end, you can either...
look for this circle icon and make a single left click, or
avoid the circle icon and make a double click.
Mistakes can be undone by hitting the backspace key, even multiple times as you wish.
If you hit the ESC key, it will remove all lines. Basically a reset.
This is useful whenever you inadvertently clicked the workspace with this tool, creating an annoying starting line.
Just hit ESC whenever this happens to remove the line.
A useful shortcut key is to hold SHIFT key, which enforces straight lines in every 45 degree angles.
Use this to ensure perfectly straight horizontal or vertical lines.
When selecting subjects that hit the edges of your canvas,
you don't have to follow the outlines exactly as shown here.
Instead, just overshoot and wrap around until you have to re-enter the image accurately.
There are 4 important modes for this tool located here.
The first option restricts you to having only a single selection at any given time.
The second option supports multiple selections. Overlapping selections will simply join.
The third option allows you to remove parts of the current selection.
The last option is not commonly used, but when the time comes I hope you will be ready to wield its power.
Feel free to use a combination of these options to repair or enhance your selections.
Keep in mind that this can be used to modify any given selection, whether made by tools or functions.
Lets quickly go over the other two lasso versions...
You'll find that the standard Lasso tool is freestyle and follows your mouse movements.
It can be useful on occasions where precise accuracy is not too important.
The magnetic lasso tool works by clicking a point to start, and then carefully moving your mouse along the outline.
It attempts to auto detect the selection although you can also make manual clicks.
This works best for specific images where the subject is clearly contrasted from the background.
These alternate versions can be useful in their own way, although the polygonal lasso is likely to be used more often.
A major disadvantage to the polygonal lasso is that it is a poor choice to handle curvy shapes.
It can be done of course, you'd have to zoom in and perform some very tedious micro editing.
Of course, that is hardly recommended so we should move on to the next tool.
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pen tool
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Mastery of the pen tool is a skill worthy of your attention.
Let's begin with the basics.
You can use it exactly like the polygonal lasso tool.
That is, right clicking to create a selection made up of straight lines.
However, you can make a curve line by dragging instead of single clicking.
You can adjust the angle, and also the length of these handles.
Which determines the curve created.
Creating good selections require you to adjust these handles properly.
Controlling curves using the pen tool can be tricky at times.
You will usually want to drag a line that is somewhat parallel to the shapes outline.
This helps to determine the angle direction of the mouse drag.
So then, you just need to figure out the the required length.
Take your time to adjust this handle using small and deliberate movements.
Try to absorb and understand how the curve can be controlled.
To undo pen tool mistakes, you may use the history window.
Recall that the polygonal lasso tool uses the backspace key instead to undo mistakes.
Next up is yet another important bit.
The forward handle that is created every time you make a curved line, affects the next line.
That is, the next line created will auto curve
and also skew towards the forward handle as though some sort of magnetic force is affecting it.
So by default, you do not have full control over the next line's behaviour.
You can override this by deleting the forward handle, to gain full manual control.
To do this, move your cursor over the last anchor point created.
Hold down ALT key and make a single left click,
this should remove the forward handle.
Now, you can adjust the following line without restriction.
Essentially, the forward handle applies an algorithm for the next line
This is to help create natural looking curves.
While it maybe be useful sometimes, this feature can be annoying in other situations.
Constantly removing handles can be useful during initial learning process.
However, there is a side effect to this procedure.
By removing the handle's auto pilot, you are in full manual control.
So if you are not careful, it may result in unnatural looking curves.
Bumpy curves like this may happen because of flawed pen work or making frequent anchor stops.
It is not recommended to make multiple stops whenever you can 'one-shot' a given curve.
On the other hand, try to reach too far and you'll find the job becomes impossible.
Generally, you should try to use the least amount of anchor stops to maximise efficiency.
Sufficient practice with this is important to unlock other related feats.
You may easily modify anchors point & handles while using the Pen tool.
Holding down CTRL/COMMAND allows you to reposition anchor points or these handles in order to readjust curves.
To modify like this, the pen tool must be selected
and secondly, the selection paths should not be completed yet.
Also, Handles may not appear unless you click on a point first.
To complete the selection, look for this 'o' icon over the final anchor point
then left click or drag around to finalise the last line.
With the Pen tool still selected, right click anywhere on the canvas and select Make Selection.
Click OK to get an active selection, which can then be copied out.
Next, let's cover modifying selections using the pen tool.
Recall that the polygonal lasso tool can modify selections using these icons.
The Pen Tool provide similar functionality, they are found here at the Make Selection window.
New Selection will remove all previous selections and create a new one.
Add to Selection will combine it to an existing selection.
Subtract is used to remove parts of an existing selection.
Intersect returns the overlapping selection area.
These versatile functions enable the pen tool to reshape any selection.
The pen tool is powerful indeed. And even more so, if you get into Illustrator.
Practice enough to take good advantage of it.
Earn your level up and see you in the next session.
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quickmask
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Quickmask is a mode that can be toggled on or off by pressing 'Q',
or by clicking the Quickmask button found here.
This label at the tab title will notify you if quickmask mode is active.
In quickmask mode, we use the brush tool to determine selection area.
Press 'B' or click here to select the brush tool.
You may adjust brush size using these bracket shortcut keys.
Expect to adjust brush size often.
Next, open up brush options by clicking this button
and then set an appropriate amount of hardness.
100% hardness results in selections that have clearly defined edges.
On the other extreme, 0% hardness creates very soft edges.
You should adjust this depending to your design objective.
Also ensure that these other brush settings are at their normal defaults.
Then press 'D' to set foreground & background colors to black & white.
With all that in place, we can proceed to paint a red overlay that represents the selection that we want.
Mistakes can be easily corrected by hitting the X key.
This shortcut key swaps the foreground & background colors.
Black color creates more selection, while white color works as an eraser.
In quickmask, you'll notice that the color pallet is restricted to greyscale.
Using grey color instead of pure black will result in semi transparency.
If you do not want that, then it is important to check the colors codes.
Click on the foreground or background color here and then manually key in the color code.
Color the subject by adjusting brush size & making corrections as you go.
Zooming and panning around during such work should be easy & natural.
If you encounter straight lines, consider loading up square brushes by clicking this button.
Look for square brushes option and then select Append.
Additional brush shapes will be added at the bottom of the list.
Upon completion, hit 'Q' to exit quickmask mode.
Notice the active selection created.
However this is actually a selection of the background, not the subject.
So now we need to inverse it.
Go to Select and choose Inverse.
Job done. From here, you can extract the selection or perform other editing.
Quickmasking is ideal for creating quick mock ups.
One possible method is to zoom in with a small brush size and carefully paint along the outer rim.
Once that is completed, filling up the inner space becomes easy.
Keep in mind that you don't have to use Quickmask t select a subject entirely.
(this is also true for selections made by any other tool)
Feel free to combine quickmasking with the pen or polygonal lasso.
Recall that these tools provide functionality to add or subtract parts of a selection.
More complex selection may require a combination of tools to get the job done.
The next session will address additional selection functions and capability.
Till then, congratulations on your new level, soldier.
Covers:
Photoshop overview.
General shortcuts.
Selection tools:
Magic Wand Tool
Polygonal Lasso Tool
Pen Tool
Quick Mask
General photo enhancement.
Correcting exposure.
Curves for color enhancement.
Shadow/Highlights.
Smart sharpen.
Resizing, cropping and rotating images.
How to learn Photoshop effectively:
Get familiar with the interface, tools, and key shortcuts. Focus on foundational skills like layers, masking, selections, and adjustment layers. Follow structured tutorials that guide you through real-world projects, such as photo editing, retouching, or creating graphics. Practice regularly by recreating designs or experimenting with your own ideas. Don’t try to learn everything at once—master one tool or concept at a time. Join creative communities for feedback and inspiration. Most importantly, be patient and consistent.
A Note from the Author:
Due to shifting priorities, I’ve had to step away from creating new video content on Udemy. However, all the materials I’ve developed so far are now available here at no cost. While the collection is modest, I hope it serves as a helpful resource on your learning journey into Photoshop. Thank you, and I wish you continued success in your growth as a designer.
If you enjoyed this course, please don’t forget to leave your review. I'd love to hear from you!