Oak Framing

Design oak frames with function first, using compression joints over pegs. Plan on-site assembly, document dimensions in sketchup, and consult a structural engineer early to meet building regulations.

learn how to design and fit a mortise and tenon joint in green oak, using a roofing square for marking, with a 38 mil tongue and 40 mil mortise.

Learn how oak framing achieves square, true joints by planing timber, marking faces and edges, and using double cutting or plumb bob marking out.

Explore alternative ways to cut joints for oak framing using hand tools, including marking knife, chisels, rebate plane, circular saw, and auger drill to shape tenons and mortises.

Keep oak timbers level and plumb by marking datum lines and returning them to the same position with a laser or spirit level, ensuring precise joints.

Explore peg making for oak framing: shape and taper pegs to securely pull joints, select slightly dry stock, and hand-work them with a draw knife to fit drilled holes.

Learn how to assemble mortise and tenon joints using draw boring and offset peg holes to pull timbers tight, align shoulder lines, and control joint strength.

Marking out practical oak framing starts with inspecting the rafter for defects, then scribing datum lines 40 mm from the top edges using a roofing square and ink line.

Cut mortises and tenons in oak framing by aligning the tendon and mortise, setting cuts with a circular saw, and testing fit for accurate 90-degree joints.

Align the principal rafters with a laser or spirit level, set datum lines with Dayton marks, and triangulate from the apex to transfer accurate angles for a true oak frame.

Fine tunes the fit of principal rafters by using a packer to fill the gap, mark and score the joint, and pare back to cut line on shoulders before reassembly.

Mark peg hole positions from the edge with roofing square, spacing 50 mil and 100 mil; drill upright with a 19 mm auger and mirror plate, reassemble, ensuring tendon meat.

Reassemble the joint after trimming the tendon and pegging, then level and triangulate the beams, and finish with saw carving to achieve a precise, even-fit joint.

Inspect plumb, level, and triangulation, then use the offset picker to mark the draw on the tendon, assemble the joint to pull tight, drill holes, and insert temporary pegs.

Use a plumb line to mark mortise and tenon positions on the principal rafters and high collar, align with datum lines, and set the tenon drop.

Cut and clean the tenons on a high collar in oak framing. Mark waste, set cut depths, and refine shoulders with planes and chisels to fit the mortises.

Mark mortices on principal rafters by aligning pencil lines with the plumb bob, using dividers for prick marks, and squaring across to fit slope and depth.

Learn to machine mortises in oak framing by following marked lines, deepening gradually, and cleaning slopes with a framing chisel, leaving six to seven mill clearance for snug tendon.

mark peg holes on the tenon and square to full depth, measure 60 mil and 150 millimeters, then transfer marks to principal rafters and drill with a 19 mill auger.

Reassemble the oak truss and level the frame using laser level, packers, and wedges to align the high collar with the principal rafters, then check joints and triangulation.

Fine tune the joints after reassembly, ensuring level, plumb, and triangulation align the truss, then close gaps with a Japanese pull saw and chisel, marking pegs.

Mark the peg draw and align joints with a 90-degree offset picker to pull them tight, drill peg holes through the tendon, then reassemble using datum lines and temporary pegs.

Position the tie beam precisely using plumb bob marking, datum lines, pencil marks, and laser alignment, while hoisting it onto the principal rafters and checking level, plumb, and rotation.

Learn to use a plumb bob and plumb line to mark joints in oak framing, accounting for rotation, twist, and precise mortises and tenons with shoulder lines.

Mark shoulder lines on the rafters with pencil and a roofing square, cut the tenon, then shape mortises with depth and slope and drill peg holes to reassemble oak frame.

Tie the joints to the rafters, apply pressure with a ratchet strap, then use a Japanese saw and offset picker to mark pegs, drill holes, reassemble, and fit queen posts.

Inspect timber for defects in oak framing, transfer templates to mark symmetry, rough cut queen posts with a portable band saw or alternatives, then clean up with a curved planer.

Position queen posts precisely by marking the timing, applying center lines and datum marks, and using a plumb line and string line to verify level and symmetry.

Cut the queen posts to length and form the tenons with haunches, then lay out mortises, drill peg holes, and reassemble the frame for a precise, tight oak joinery fit.

Assemble the frame, level the queen posts and joints against the rafters, mark and pare the joints with a saw and chisel, drill peg holes, and drive in temporary pegs.

Carve carpenter's marks permanently into the frame using a large gouge, a v-groove carving chisel, and a straight side with a 50 mm frames chisel to guide reassembly.

Trim excess timber from the oak frame and the principal rafter. Remove sharp edges with a spoke shave or smoothing plane.

Take timbers to site and install the truss, using a metal tie bar between walls and pocket holes in the concrete ring beam, while lifting principal rafters with a telehandler.