Make a 'Full height' Yard Gate - simple joints, basic tools

Please read and watch through the whole course before you start.

All projects in Woodworking always start with setting out. This is making a full-size drawing or whatever you intend to produce. The professional term for this is a setting out ROD, I've included a printable resource of an example of a five panel door which shows this. From this drawing we mark all the pieces of timber, this is so that we don't have to keep measuring each piece and it also avoids making mistakes. So this is done on a sheet of plywood, a spare piece of timber, or even a large sheet of paper.

Note: You just make a drawing of the edge and/end of the gate, not the whole front! example; I used to use a piece of floor board

You can determine the exact size of all the parts of the gate and then you combine it with your cutting list. But always buy timber slightly longer than you need, you then go and make your cuts as per setting out.

I've included a PDF to show you how to write out a cutting list. Lessen your risks. By this I mean using decent quality timber and applying preservative on the various parts even before the gate is assembled.

Note: Before you start setting out, determine which side of the gate will have the hinges, refer to the Page 2 PDF in the next lecture.

A list of tools needed is on the last lecture.

This lecture will not just help you squaring the gate, but you can use it to check anything, any size, for square (90 degrees). You can make a large square yourself from 3 scraps of wood.

Remember as you work doing this squaring up to keep the T&G joints as tight as you can. You see me tapping the boards at the top of the gate, but of course you may also need to tap the boards from the other end to get all the boards to line up.

Get into the habit of marking all the parts of the gate/door, as the parts will not be interchangeable. It's a this point that you need to decide which side the gate is hung on (hinged) as this will determine where the brace joints will be. on my gate it's the left.

Joints with the braces to the battens (sometimes called 'ledges') makes for a much stronger gate. When making these types of joints it's always better to cut one part first (brace), and then once you're happy the cut end is accurate, you can then use it to mark the battens.

This lecture video includes an animated graphic showing you the layout for marking.

Included in this lecture is a safety tip for sawing.

When working with timber, especially sawing, always try and clamp it to a bench or a trestle, you have more control of the saw and therefore it's safer, this is beneficial when you are learning to use tools.

Although most joints on doors are glued together this type of joint does not warrant any glue it would not be of any benefit.

By the end of this lecture you will have learned some setting out, marking out, sawing, chisel work, using a plane and safety tips.

We now use the 4 cut ends of the braces to mark the 'sockets' on the battens for these to fit into.

Tip: Measure twice, cut once. This avoids making mistakes. This advice is for all woodworking.

Notice how I mark the joints as they are paired up, 1 + 1, 2 + 2 etc.

Whilst using the saw and chisel, always try and anchor or secure the wood you are working on firmly, this makes for easier working, and is safer.

Safety: watch the lecture through to make yourself fully aware of the safety tips shown.

On the gate I made, I included a 'stopped chamfer' (see photo) this type of addition is called an embellishment, and is purely aesthetic, but it makes for a more pleasing looking gate.

By the end of this lecture you will have cut all the joints, picked up some safety tips, had some experience in using hand tools, and now you have the satisfaction of seeing all the battens (ledges) and braces laid out ready to fix on the boards. Check out the Gate 1 image to view mine.

Give yourself plenty of room for working. Ideally this should be done in a garage or outside.

Fit the T&G boards together with a hammer to tap them in, use a block of wood against the edges so as not to damage the them.

An advantage to assembling this gate would be a sash clamp, (see photo) this would mean that you can put it across the width of the gate and 'squeeze' all the boards together and then start fixing the battens and braces.

If you don't have a sash clamp, just make sure that all the tongues and grooves are fully inserted. What helps with this is when you select the boards at the timber yard, have a look down each board and pick the straightest, and of course the boards need to be dry.

TIP: Screw the first board through the batten, as you see me do, then ensure all the boards are tight together, then screw the last board, now you have all the board tight to screw the rest.

At the end you should now have a fully assembled gate, congratulations! in this lecture you have had more experience in using a chisel, plane and other tools, and picked up more safety tips.

Here I show you one of two options for fitting both jambs, to which you can fit the gate. This method is more traditional but has been replaced in favour of using the power drill, plastic plugs and screws. Depending on your location you may have difficulty buying a plugging chisel, but there are other means of removing the mortar from joint from brickwork, but you then have the option of using a drill and screws. Included in the video lecture is an animation showing how to achieve the correct shape of the wood plugs.