Learn Derby Pattern Making – A Fundamental Shoe Style

Name: Learn Derby Pattern Making – A Fundamental Shoe Style
Rating: 4.7 (6 reviews)

Learn Derby patternmaking: shoe design, upper drafting, lining creation and pattern prep for handmade shoes.

Created byIUSTIN IGNAT

Last updated 10/2025

English

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What you'll learn

Understand the structure and design features of the classic Derby shoe style.
Create a complete Derby shoe pattern from scratch, including the upper and lining components.
Apply professional patternmaking techniques using a standard shoe last.
Prepare and adjust patterns for cutting leather and assembling a Derby prototype.

Course content

2 sections • 15 lectures • 2h 34m total length

Thank You for Enrolling – Let’s Get Started! ✨0:23
About Me0:55
Meet Justin, Valevlo's owner and a seasoned pattern maker and shoemaker with over 10 years of experience. Learn to design, pattern make, and construct derby shoes step by step.
Needed tools for Pattern Making2:35
Identify essential tools for pattern making, including the shoe last, paper tape, rulers, protractor, compass, pencils, scissors, glue, tracing paper, and cutting mats.

1.1. Wrapping the shoe last22:57
1.2. Establishing the main points and lines of the shoe last19:06
Establish the main points and lines of the shoelast, including vamp point and ball line, set the central axis, and determine the quarters height for derby models.
1.3. Drawing the design lines of the model9:07
Draw the derby pattern lines with a protractor, including a tangent curved line and 5 mm parallels from the central line. Establish stay stitch and lace eyelets with precise spacing.
1.4. Transferring shoe last shells in 2D11:40
Transfer shoe last shells to a 2D pattern by applying 5–8 mm overlapped paper tape along the central axis, then flatten on cardboard to form a crease-controlled 2D copy.
1.5. Obtaining the Mean Forme12:38
Derive the mean form from a shoelast by overlapping shells to create a two-dimensional pattern template for shoe construction, noting length 330 mm, size 42, and heel height 20 mm.
1.6. Placing the Mean Forme in the xOy coordinate system7:28
Set up the xoi axis system on A3 paper, measure hill height, and align the mean form so the middle of points 1 and 2 sits on the ox axis.
1.7. Transferring the design lines6:29
Transfer the design lines from the outside shell to the main form by making small cuts and fitting at points, trace, add stay stitch and eyelets, join and smooth.
1.8.1. Technical drawing - Part 114:34
Apply technical drawing techniques to adjust the back curvature and set lasting and overlapping allowances for a derby upper, including quarter and tongue construction and dog tail reinforcement.
1.8.2. Technical drawing - Part 213:01
Draw the lining quarter and lining back, add trimming and lasting allowances, and mark the lining upper; construct toe puff, counter stiffener, and eyelets reinforcement with mirrored axes.
1.9. Extracting the patterns from technical drawing23:28
Extract patterns from the technical drawing by copying external and internal quarter lines with tracing. Use axes and rotation to assemble uppers, linings, eyelets reinforcement, and toe puff.
1.10. Getting the final patterns on cardboard9:08
Stick tracing-paper patterns onto flexible cardboard, trim excess, and separate pieces. Cut outer lines and notch marks for overlapping quarters and internal quarters to prepare final shoe patterns.
Congratulations0:31

Requirements

No prior shoemaking or patternmaking experience is required – this course is beginner-friendly.
You will need a shoe last and basic tools such as paper, pencil, tape, ruler, cutter, and patternmaking materials.

Description

Imagine being able to design and draft your own shoe patterns — not just any pattern, but a timeless and essential model: the Derby.

In this course, you’ll learn how to create a professional Derby shoe pattern from scratch using traditional hand patternmaking techniques. Whether you're just starting out or aiming to refine your footwear skills, this course provides a solid foundation for anyone interested in shoemaking design, leathercraft, or fashion.

Through detailed, step-by-step video lessons, you’ll master the entire Derby patternmaking process — from wrapping the last and transferring the mean forme, to building the technical drawing and cutting the final cardboard pieces.

You’ll also gain the confidence to apply these techniques in other shoe styles and take your craft further.

What You’ll Learn

How to analyze a Derby shoe and identify its key design elements
Wrapping a last and establishing key points and construction lines
Transferring the mean forme and design lines into a 2D layout
Building the technical drawing and extracting final patterns
Creating professional cardboard patterns ready for leather cutting

What You’ll Need

A shoe last
Basic tools: pencil, ruler, cutter, eraser, A3 paper, and other accessible items
No software needed — this course focuses on hands-on, manual techniques

Who This Course Is For

Beginners who want to learn classic shoemaking from the ground up
Aspiring footwear designers looking to create patterns that fit real lasts
Leathercrafters who want to expand their skillset into footwear
Hobbyists or professionals seeking creative, made-to-measure projects

This course is part of a larger shoemaking journey that includes 9 different footwear models — from Derby and Oxford to Sneakers, Loafers, Boots, Heels, and more. When you’re ready, you’ll have the skills and tools to go beyond the Derby and start building your own full collection.

Who this course is for:

Beginners interested in shoemaking and footwear design
Hobbyists who want to learn how to draft their own shoe patterns
Aspiring footwear designers looking to understand classic Derby construction

Learn Derby Pattern Making – A Fundamental Shoe Style

What you'll learn

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Course content

Introduction3 lectures • 4min

Pattern making - Derby Model12 lectures • 2hr 30min

Requirements

Description

Who this course is for: