
Course Structure
Section 1
Meet the Creator
Section 2
About Gourmet Candle
Section 3
Introduction
Section 4
Candle-Making Safety
Section 5
Candle-Making Equipment and Supplies
Section 6
Common Candle Terms
Section 7
Different Types of Candle Waxes
Section 8
Candle Wick Sizes
Section 9
Candle Colorant
Section 10
Fragrance
Section 11
Making a Container Candle
Section 12
Candle Testing
Section 13
Troubleshooting Candles and FAQ
Section 14
Candle Tarts
Section 15
TYPES OF CANDLES
Section 16
CANDLE BUSINESS MASTER CLASS
Section 17
CANDLE PLANNER TEMPLATES
Section 18
TEST YOUR CANDLE KNOWLEDGE
Section 19
Candle Making Safety
MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT.
Only use containers that are graded for candle making.
Make sure you have a thermometer to monitor the temperature of your wax. If it gets too hot, it could potentially break the glass you’re pouring it into, create a lot of smoke that can cause respiratory problems, or become a fire hazard.
You will also want to make sure that the vessel you are melting your wax in is easy to handle. Aluminum pouring pots are designed with a plastic handle that you can easily hold with your bare hand even if it’s filled with hot wax.
If you are using a mold for your candles or tarts, make sure that it is made of a material that can withstand the heat from the melted wax.
MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING THE RIGHT MATERIALS.
Only use wax that is made for candle-making. If you choose a wax that is not designed for candle making you could cause respiratory problems or create a potential fire hazard.
Make sure you are using fragrance oils or essential oils that are designed for candle making. Perfumes are not safe to use; they can be a potential fire hazard and probably will not give you a good scent throw. Some of the fragrance oils can irritate the skin.
Crayons or food coloring are never acceptable items used to color your candles. Only use candle approved colorant.
Make sure you are using the right size wick for your candles. If you choose a wick that is too large it can create a lot of soot which could cause respiratory problems. If the flame is too large and too hot it could also be a fire hazard so make sure you (and your customers) know to trim the wick between burns. There have even been cases where the wick burned so hot that it caused the glass container to fracture or shatter so be sure to do a test burn to ensure the candle is not burning too hot.
MAKE SURE YOUR WORK SPACE IS ORGANIZED AND SAFE.
Make sure you are making your candles in an open, well-ventilated area so that you are not breathing in the “fumes” from the fragrance oils. Too much exposure to these fragrance oils can cause dizziness, headaches, or respiratory problems if you are exposed to them for prolonged periods of time without proper ventilation. If you’re making candles in your kitchen, turn on your vent hood to keep the air circulating. If you don’t have a vent hood in your work area, open a window/door to help circulate the air.
You’ll also want to make sure you are taking precautions to protect yourself from the hot wax. It is recommended to wear shoes, long pants, latex gloves or even an apron to protect your skin from getting burned by any wax that may splash around when pouring and/or stirring.
Have a dedicated area for your candles to cool. Somewhere that they can sit, undisturbed, for several hours while the wax sets. If your work area is organized and clean it will be much easier to make sure that you, and your candles, are safe from any harm.
Candle-Making Equipment
1. Candle-Making Pot or Double Broiler – A source used for melting your wax.
2. Candle Pouring Pot – Wax, fragrance and candle colorant will all be measured on your scale and mixed in the same pot. This pot will be use to distribute the hot wax into the candle container that your candles will be cooling in.
3. Food Scale – The scale will be use to measure your wax and fragrance.
4. Thermometer – Your candle’s mixing and pouring temperature will be different. A thermometer will exhibit your wax’s temperature, so that you are properly informed and know when to pour your wax into your vessel.
5. Stirring Utensil – Your wax must be mixed with its colorant and fragrance. A (non-plastic) stirring utensil will be essential for the mixing process.
6. Wick stabilizer – Stabilizers keep your candle’s wick centered to help avoid the candle from burning off-center.
7. Scissors or Wick Trimmers – This will allow you to trim your wick so that you wont have to trim them later.
Candle-Making Supplies
1. Candle container – A container used for holding your finished candles.
2. Glue dots – These will be used to attach your wick to your container to ensure that the wick doesn’t move during the cooling process.
3. Candle Warning/Safety Label – All candles should have a warning label that includes burning instructions, candle fire safety and tips on burning your candle. This is usually placed at the bottom, outside of the candle.
4. Candle Label – These labels will be located on the lids of your candles.
5. Candle Wax – Which wax will you be using to create your candles?
6. Candle Wick – Ensure that you have the correct wick size for the candles that you’ll be creating.
7. Candle Fragrance – Quality fragrance or essential oil from a reputable supplier.
8. Candle Colorant – Only use candle-safe colorant to color your candle. Candles with no colorant will remail white once your candle cools. (Never use crayons or food dye)
Candle-Making Wax Melter or Double Broiler – A source used for melting your wax.
Candle Pouring Pot – Wax, fragrance and candle colorant will all be measured on your scale and mixed in the same pot. This pot will be use to distribute the hot wax into the candle container that your candles will be cooling in.
Food Scale – The scale will be use to measure your wax and fragrance.
Thermometer – Your candle’s mixing and pouring temperature will be different. A thermometer will exhibit your wax’s temperature, so that you are properly informed and know when to pour your wax into your vessel.
Stirring Utensil – Your wax must be mixed with its colorant and fragrance. A (non-plastic) stirring utensil will be essential for the mixing process.
Wick stabilizer – Stabilizers keep your candle’s wick centered to help avoid the candle from burning off-center.
Scissors or Wick Trimmers – This will allow you to trim your wick so that you wont have to trim them later.
Candle-Making Supplies
1. Candle container – A container used for holding your finished candles.
2. Glue dots – These will be used to attach your wick to your container to ensure that the wick doesn’t move during the cooling process.
3. Candle Warning/Safety Label – All candles should have a warning label that includes burning instructions, candle fire safety and tips on burning your candle. This is usually placed at the bottom, outside of the candle.
4. Candle Label – These labels will be located on the lids of your candles.
5. Candle Wax – Which wax will you be using to create your candles?
6. Candle Wick – Ensure that you have the correct wick size for the candles that you’ll be creating.
7. Candle Fragrance – Quality fragrance or essential oil from a reputable supplier.
8. Candle Colorant – Only use candle-safe colorant to color your candle. Candles with no colorant will remail white once your candle cools. (Never use crayons or food dye)
Burn time: The amount of time it takes for the wax in a candle to be consumed completely.
Cold throw: The fragrance emitted from a candle when it is not burning.
Cure: To allow a candle to set, or age, to help enhance the fragrance.
Diameter: The measurement of a candle, container or mold at its widest point.
Double boiler: Two nested pans with water in the lower one, designed to allow wax heating.
Double scenting: Adding one ounce of fragrance per pound of wax.
Dye: Colorants that are used to give color to wax.
Flashpoint: The temperature a substance can ignite if it comes in contact with an open flame.
Fragrance Load: The percentage of fragrance you will need, in correlation to the amount of wax you will be using. Fragrance load is always expressed as a percentage.
Fragrance oil: A blend of synthetic and/or natural components used to create scented oil.
Frosting: A white dusty substance that appears in soy wax candles.
Hot throw: The fragrance emitted from a candle when it is burning.
Melt pool: The wax that liquefies as a candle burns.
Relief holes: Hole poked in candles to release air pockets that can form as wax cools to prepare for a second pour.
Scent Load: Amount of fragrance a wax will hold; usually stated in a percentage.
Scent throw: The fragrance emitted by a candle.
Sink hole: Cavity that is formed when a wax hardens and contracts.
Triple Scent: Adding 1.5 ounces of fragrance per pound of wax.
Tunneling: When a wick does not make a full melt pool in a candle leaving a ring of unmeted wax on the sides.
Wick bar: A small metal bar used when making candles to stabilize a wick at the top of a candle.
Burn time: The amount of time it takes for the wax in a candle to be consumed completely.
Cold throw: The fragrance emitted from a candle when it is not burning.
Cure: To allow a candle to set, or age, to help enhance the fragrance.
Diameter: The measurement of a candle, container or mold at its widest point.
Double boiler: Two nested pans with water in the lower one, designed to allow wax heating.
Double scenting: Adding one ounce of fragrance per pound of wax.
Dye: Colorants that are used to give color to wax.
Flashpoint: The temperature a substance can ignite if it comes in contact with an open flame.
Fragrance Load: The percentage of fragrance you will need, in correlation to the amount of wax you will be using. Fragrance load is always expressed as a percentage.
Fragrance oil: A blend of synthetic and/or natural components used to create scented oil.
Frosting: A white dusty substance that appears in soy wax candles.
Hot throw: The fragrance emitted from a candle when it is burning.
Melt pool: The wax that liquefies as a candle burns.
Relief holes: Hole poked in candles to release air pockets that can form as wax cools to prepare for a second pour.
Scent Load: Amount of fragrance a wax will hold; usually stated in a percentage.
Scent throw: The fragrance emitted by a candle.
Sink hole: Cavity that is formed when a wax hardens and contracts.
Triple Scent: Adding 1.5 ounces of fragrance per pound of wax.
Tunneling: When a wick does not make a full melt pool in a candle leaving a ring of unmeted wax on the sides.
Wick bar: A small metal bar used when making candles to stabilize a wick at the top of a candle.
Different Types of Candle Waxes
There are 4 main types of wax that are typically used in candle-making. However, you may find different variations of set candle waxes (multiple types of soy waxes, etc.) as some wax manufacturers use additives to their waxes for different purposes. Additives may be used in candles to allow glass adhesion in certain waxes or used to accept a higher fragrance load to create stronger scented candles.
Paraffin Wax
Paraffin wax is the most common candle wax. It can hold a lot of fragrance, casting a stronger scent, throwing it farther across a room. Paraffin wax is not eco-friendly because it is a by-product of the crude oil refinement and the oil industry and is not sustainable. Paraffin wax has also been found to emit small amounts of volatile organic compounds (toluene and benzene) and when they are lit, they have been linked to asthma and lung cancer. Furthermore, it can cause respiratory irritation when used in an unventilated space. VOCs aside, paraffin wax will also create soot.
Soy Wax
Soy wax can burn up to 50% longer than paraffin and healthier than paraffin wax. Soy wax, a by-product of soybeans and is a more natural wax alternative. It’s better for your home’s indoor air quality, because it’s clean burning, biodegradable and easy to clean (if spilled).
Beeswax
Like soy wax, beeswax is eco-friendly and sustainable. Derived from bees and their honeycomb hives, a beeswax candle even gives off a tinge of sweetness into the air. And unlike paraffin, beeswax produces ions, which are thought to purify the air. Beeswax also offers a hard wax substance, which makes it suitable for shaping pillar candles. Unfortunately, the subtle, sweet aroma of beeswax is also its biggest downside. Beeswax works wonderfully when used in an unscented candle. However, this sweetness isn’t suitable for some candles that offer other scents and may not mingle well or could disrupt the fragrance. Unlike soy wax, beeswax is very expensive.
Coconut Wax
Coconut wax is harvested from coconuts. Coconuts are considered a sustainable crop and renewable material. In addition, coconut wax holds a fragrance very well, making it an excellent substitute for paraffin. Finally, coconut wax can also hold color rather well, making it nice for more decorative candles. Like soy and beeswax, coconut wax doesn't produce much soot and gives a cleaner burn. Coconut wax candles are often more expensive.
BONUS:
Gel Wax
A gel candle is a candle that is made from a material composed of 95% mineral oil and 5% polymer resin. When the oil is mixed with the polymer resin, (a powder), it becomes more solid, making it the consistency similar to Jell-O. Gel wax can be used to make beverage candles such as beer and soda as well as candles with sand, glitter, glass embeds, wax embeds, and seashells. There are different types of candle gel ranging from low density to high density. The thicker/more dense the gel is, the more scent it can hold. Fragrance oils that are safe for gel candle-making are called Non-Polar and are easily available from suppliers that offer high quality fragrance oils. Do not add your paraffin, soy or beeswax scents or essential oils under any circumstances as they will cause your candle to catch fire. It is ESSENTIAL to use a NON-POLAR fragrance oil with a Flash Point of 170° or higher. The flashpoint of medium density gel is 430° F. The flashpoint means at what temperature the gel will catch on fire. Zinc cored wicks work best for gel candles as they burn safely and remain upright whilst the candle is setting.
Candle Wick Sizing
Without the right candle wick, you could experience problems with tunneling, drowning wick, soot, and no hot scent throw. The incorrect wick size could allow your candle to burn down too quickly wasting the ingredients and angering your customers and not want to burn at all.
Characteristics Of A Great Candle Wick
Consistent and steady flame with minimal popping and flickering.
No mushrooming
No soot
Complete wax pool
Choosing the Correct Wick Size
Choose the right candle wick size by measuring the inside diameter of your container and then take that measurement to reference the candlewick size chart based on the type of wax you are using. Many candle supply sites include the suggested wick size for your desired candle size and wax type. While many factors dictate the size wick required to properly burn a candle, there are two that make the biggest difference: the type of wax and the diameter of the candle. You must choose your wax type and container before choosing your wick.
For instance, a container candle made with soy wax that is 3 inches in diameter would require an “Eco 14” or “CD 18” wick.
There are 4 main types of wicks that may be used for your candles:
CD: Flat braided cotton wicks with paper threads woven into the cotton. Designed to ensure a consistent burn with higher fragrance loads, especially with softer, natural waxes.
Eco: Flat cotton wicks braided with thin paper threads that gives the wick a rigid structure without the need for a core. An excellent choice for soy candles, this wick has good burn stability that works well in votives, containers and pillars. ECO wicks also work well with wax blends and low melt-point paraffin waxes.
LX: Flat-braided cotton wicks with a rigid structure for easy pouring. Compared to other wicks, the LX Wick burns with a tighter controlled flame, which helps ensure that glass containers don’t overheat on one side and that pillars don’t ‘tunnel’ or leak out the side of the candle.
Wooden: Wood wicks are strips of wood used in candle making that give off a light crackling sound.
Candle Wick Sizing
Without the right candle wick, you could experience problems with tunneling, drowning wick, soot, and no hot scent throw. The incorrect wick size could allow your candle to burn down too quickly wasting the ingredients and angering your customers and not want to burn at all.
Characteristics Of A Great Candle Wick
ü Consistent and steady flame with minimal popping and flickering.
ü No mushrooming
ü No soot
ü Complete wax pool
Choosing the Correct Wick Size
Choose the right candle wick size by measuring the inside diameter of your container and then take that measurement to reference the candlewick size chart based on the type of wax you are using. Many candle supply sites include the suggested wick size for your desired candle size and wax type. While many factors dictate the size wick required to properly burn a candle, there are two that make the biggest difference: the type of wax and the diameter of the candle. You must choose your wax type and container before choosing your wick.
For instance, a container candle made with soy wax that is 3 inches in diameter would require an “Eco 14” or “CD 18” wick.
There are 4 main types of wicks that may be used for your candles:
CD: Flat braided cotton wicks with paper threads woven into the cotton. Designed to ensure a consistent burn with higher fragrance loads, especially with softer, natural waxes.
Eco: Flat cotton wicks braided with thin paper threads that gives the wick a rigid structure without the need for a core. An excellent choice for soy candles, this wick has good burn stability that works well in votives, containers and pillars. ECO wicks also work well with wax blends and low melt-point paraffin waxes.
LX: Flat-braided cotton wicks with a rigid structure for easy pouring. Compared to other wicks, the LX Wick burns with a tighter controlled flame, which helps ensure that glass containers don’t overheat on one side and that pillars don’t ‘tunnel’ or leak out the side of the candle.
Wooden: Wood wicks are strips of wood used in candle making that give off a light crackling sound.
Dye blocks
Dye blocks are ideal for achieving darker colors or when working with large batches of wax.
In soy wax: Will produce darker, vibrant colors.
In paraffin wax: Will produce light to dark shades of color.
The dye blocks are also very easy to use. Depending on the size batch you are making, you may add one full block or a partial block to achieve the desired color. With each type, you are able to vary the shade by using more or less dye, or you can also blend different dyes to create unique or unusual colors.
Liquid dye
Liquid dye is a great choice for creating custom colors you can't find anywhere else.
In soy wax: Will produce lighter, pastel colors.
In paraffin wax: Will produce light to dark shades.
Because the liquid dyes come with a dropper, they are extremely easy to measure and blend very quickly with the wax. You simply count the number of drops you use per pound, make note of the amount, and this ensures you get a consistent color with every batch you make.
For lighter colors, use less dye; for darker colors; use more. You can test the color of the wax by dripping some out onto a paper plate (or something that would not be damaged) and letting it cool. It is always a good idea to start out with just a little. You can always add a little more to darken it, but it is difficult to lighten the color once the dye is added. For the liquid dyes, you may start with 1 drop per pound for light colors, but do not go over 7 drops per pound for darker colors. The dye blocks usually color anywhere from 5 - 25 pounds per block depending on the shade you are trying to achieve.
Crayons are not recommended for use as dye in candles. The wax used in them is different than candle wax since it is not meant to be burned, and when you use them as dye they will tend to clog the wick as the candle burns. If they are used, your candle will not burn properly.
With lots of different information on the internet, it can be very difficult in finding what’s accurate and what works. My name is Emerald and I’m the owner and creator of Gourmet Candle. I’ll be guiding you through this exciting course. With almost a decade of candle-making experience and running a very successful candle business (Gourmet Candle), I’ll be teaching you the basics of candle making and how to apply your newfound knowledge to the candle making process.
This course is packed with an abundance of information on how to make candles as a beginner candle-maker. After completion you will be able to understand the different types of wax, wicks, fragrance, common terminology, the candle-making process as well as create a variety of candles and know how to test them. You'll be provided with knowledge on how to choose the right wax and wick combination for each candle, decide how much candle fragrance and dye to use for each candle and much more information.
Even if you're not an expert in candle-making, this course will provide you with reliable straight forward knowledge to start making scented candles. Save time and money with this organized beginners candle making course. See you in class!