Growing Peppers From Seed To Harvest

Lesson Summary

Peppers originate in a warm, sub-tropical climate. They thrive in warm temperatures, making them well-suited for summertime growing.

Ideal growing conditions for peppers:

• Most peppers prefer full sun conditions, but they can also do well in part shade, especially afternoon shade.

• Pepper plants prefer evenly moist, well-draining soil with moderate fertility. If your soil does not drain well, pepper plants may struggle to grow well.

• Ideal temperatures range between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and slightly cooler at night. Ideal humidity levels should be between 60 and 80 percent, though some varieties prefer it more dry.

When it comes to growing peppers, there are various methods from containers to raised beds to in-ground, but the basic ideal growing conditions are the same across the board.

Lesson Summary

Soil is essential for a healthy garden, whether planting in containers or directly in the ground.

When considering in-ground soil, it typically consists of four main components:

• Sand: Drains well but doesn't hold nutrients efficiently. Ideal percentage for growing peppers is around 40%.

• Silt: Holds onto nutrients effectively, leading to less frequent watering. Ideal percentage for peppers is also around 40%.

• Clay: Maximizes nutrient storage but can become waterlogged if not well-drained. Ideal percentage is between 15% and 20%.

• Organic Matter: Adds life, nutrients, and biological benefits to the soil. Common types include compost, rotted manures, leaf mold, and worm castings. Ideal percentage is between 3% and 5% in soil.

Soil tests are recommended to understand the composition, pH, and nutrient levels, providing a blueprint for soil improvement over time. When growing in containers, potting soils often contain added nutrients like slow-release fertilizer or compost, but plants may require periodic feeding as nutrients get depleted, especially in containers. Focus on good drainage, nutrient retention, and organic material for successful pepper plant growth in a variety of soils.

Lesson Summary

Plants require various nutrients for healthy growth, including:

• 3 primary nutrients: Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium

• 3 secondary nutrients: Calcium, magnesium, and sulfur

• Micronutrients: Boron, iron, copper, manganese, and more

The concentrations of these nutrients are indicated on fertilizers as NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, ex. "5-3-4"). All-purpose fertilizers generally contain the necessary nutrients in appropriate quantities.

For in-ground beds:

• Amend in-ground soil with compost, manure, or worm castings at least 2 weeks before planting to allow time for these to begin breaking down, releaseing the nutrients

• If performing a soil test, use specific soil amendments to add only the nutrients that are needed in your ground soil

• Maintain beds over time by fertilizing less frequently and relying on compost, mulches, and other natural materials

For potted plants:

• Follow manufacturer guidelines for fertilizing, as potted plants will use up fertilizer during the course of a gardening season

• Use fertilizers containing a balanced blend of nutrients

• Start with a lower amount and adjust based on plant performance

By providing the necessary nutrients (and not over-feeding), plants will be more resilient to pests and diseases throughout the growing season.

Lesson Summary

Peppers prefer growing in consistently moist soil to avoid issues that can arise from dry and wet fluctuations. When watering in-ground peppers, my recommendation is to water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep root growth for better resilience to drought.

Potted pepper plants typically require more frequent watering due to faster drying potting mixes, but larger containers will need less than smaller ones. Consider automating watering with drip irrigation or a soaker hose for efficiency and targeted watering.

• Water deeply and infrequently for in-ground peppers

• Potted pepper plants need more frequent watering, especially in hotter weather

• Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to automate watering efficiently

Mulching can help retain moisture in the soil and prevent it from drying out quickly. When watering, target the base of plants and avoid wetting the foliage to prevent fungal growth.

You can also test the pH of your water, especially if using city water, as peppers prefer a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Collecting rainwater for irrigation can benefit plants, as it often has a more optimal pH and contains nitrates. If your tap water is cold, allow it to warm up to room temp before watering to avoid shocking the plant's root system.

• Mulch to retain moisture and prevent soil drying

• Water at the base of plants and avoid wetting foliage

• Test water pH and consider using rainwater for optimal growth

Managing watering practices with care can significantly impact plant health and growth throughout the season. Plan ahead and ensure plants are consistently watered without being overwatered or waterlogged.

Lesson Summary

Understanding the impact of weather conditions on pepper plants can help you be prepared for adverse conditions outdoors.

The ideal temperature range for pepper plants is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit for growth, and slightly cooler for fruit production.

• In very hot climates, using shade cloth or providing afternoon shade in mid-summer is essential for plant health

• Cold temperatures can cause slow or stunted growth, flower drop, leaf damage, and potentially plant death (in the event of a frost)

• Most pepper plants prefer humidity levels between 60-80%. Low humidity can lead to poor fruit sets and leaf issues, while high humidity can increase fungal infections and fruit cracking.

• Wind can cause damage to plants, so providing support like stakes or cages is crucial. A windbreak can also protect plants from strong winds or severe storms.

• Peppers will grow best with full sun exposure, ideally 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. In very hot climates, provide shade during the hottest part of the day to prevent stress on the plants.

Monitoring the weather forecast and planning accordingly is vital for optimal plant growth and productivity!

Lesson Summary

When preparing for planting, choosing the right pepper varieties is crucial for a successful garden. Here are some key points:

• Focus on heat level and flavor first before deciding on size, color, and other characteristics.

• Consider growing at least one disease-resistant pepper variety for reliability.

• Try a few "fun" varieties that are hard to find for sale in grocery stores.

• Opt for pepper varieties you will actually use to avoid ending up with an excess of unneeded peppers.

Regardless of your choice, it is essential to enjoy the process and select peppers that excite you. This enthusiasm will help you stay engaged and care for your plants effectively. Throughout the course, a wide range of peppers will be grown, from bell peppers to superhots.

Seed suppliers:

• Johnny's Seeds - Reliable hybrids and heirlooms (https://www.johnnyseeds.com/vegetables/peppers/)

• Rare seeds - Open pollinated heirloom types (https://www.rareseeds.com/store/plants-seeds/vegetable-seeds/pepper-seeds)

• Matt's Peppers - Unique and hard-to-find varieties (https://www.mattspeppers.com)

• More seed suppliers (https://peppergeek.com/seed-suppliers/)

Lesson Summary

The course discusses two main methods for growing pepper plants: container growing and growing in the ground.

• Container Growing:

• Benefits include affordability, various sizes, and flexibility in placement.

• Easy to control soil and nutrient levels.

• Drawbacks include the need for more frequent watering, potential top-heaviness, and increased fertilizer requirements.

• Growing in the Ground:

• Benefits include cost-effectiveness as it eliminates the need for potting soil.

• Ground soil consists of minerals that do not break down, leading to less need for replacements.

• Deeper soil leads to much less frequent watering needs.

• Good bacteria relationships help plants grow healthier and can be amended with compost yearly.

• Drawbacks include immobility once established, susceptibility to pests, and the need for good natural soil conditions (not too much clay, enough organic material, etc.).

During the course, we'll focus on these two main techniques, with discussions and demonstrations highlighting the benefits and challenges of each.

Lesson Summary

As you plan your pepper garden, I highly recommend companion planting. The goal is to create a mutually beneficial relationship by planting other species near your pepper plants.

• Companion plants attract beneficial insects like pollinators and predatory insects such as green lacewings, wasps, and hoverflies.

• Beneficial insects like ladybugs help control pest populations in your garden.

• Great companion plants include flowers like:

• Asters

• Alyssum

• Alliums (chives, onions, garlic)

• Cosmos

• Marigolds

• Native flowering plants

• Petunias

• Sea holly

• Yarrow

• Vegetable plants like garlic, onions, basil, and other herbs can also be beneficial companions.

• You may want to avoid planting brassicas like kale, cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli near your peppers as they are heavy feeders that can compete for nutrients.

Learn more here: https://peppergeek.com/pepper-plant-companions/

Diversity is essential in your garden for a healthy ecosystem:

• Interplant a variety of vegetables and flowers.

• Strive for consistent blooms from spring to fall to attract and sustain beneficial insects year-round.

Lesson Summary

To start pepper plants off well and carry them through to harvest, certain supplies are essential:

• Seeds

• Containers: (6-cell seed starting trays, 3-4" pots, large outdoor containers)

• Soil - Potting soil if growing in containers

• Fertilizer: Especially important for growing in pots

• Support system: Tomato cages or 4-5 foot sturdy stakes

• Fan: A fan is important for indoor seedlings to establish stronger stems.

Optional supplies we recommend:

• Seed heating mat (highly recommended for faster gemination)

• Grow lights: Recommended for optimal early growth.

• Thermometer/hygrometer: Useful for monitoring indoor temperature and humidity.

• Pruning shears: Optional but recommended for pruning diseased or damaged foliage throughout the season.

Try our custom seed starting kit (https://collabs.shop/gndplt).

Use our Amazon shop to find many of these supplies online (https://www.amazon.com/shop/peppergeek).

Use the attached supplies checklist to keep track of what items you have on hand!

Lesson Summary

Before starting to plant pepper seeds, it's crucial to keep in mind three essential principles throughout the growing season:

• Organization: Organizing your garden in advance can save you stress and overwhelm during mid-season. Keep on top of labeling plants, planning where each plant will be located, and which other plants will be nearby your peppers.

• Observation: Regularly check on your plants to avoid issues like pests, diseases, and inadequate hardening off. Also, keep checking in later in the season so that your peppers are harvested at the right time.

• Timing: Getting the timing right at each critical stage, from planting seeds to harvesting, is key for success in gardening.

Lesson Summary

It is super important to plant your pepper seeds at the right time! Plant too early, and the plants will pre-maturely outgrow their small pots indoors. Plant too late, and the plants may not have enough time to mature and produce a sizable yield.

In general, we recommend planting seeds indoors about four to six weeks before the last frost date. Your last frost date is the average day of the year when your location experiences its final spring frost. Find yours here (https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates).

Here are some key points to consider when choosing a planting date:

• Planting indoors helps pepper plants get a head start before going outside.

• Resist the urge to plant seeds extra-early unless necessary.

• In very cold climates (USDA hardiness zones 4 or lower), consider planting a few weeks earlier to extend the season on the front-end.

• For longer-season pepper varieties like superhots, plant a couple of weeks earlier than sweet peppers.

• If a seed packet indicates a harvest time of over 120 days, consider planting earlier.

Experimenting with different planting dates can help you find the ideal time for your location and preferences. By following these guidelines, you can optimize your pepper planting schedule for a successful harvest.

Lesson Summary

The process of germinating pepper seeds is fairly straightforward. The most important factors are organization (labeling pots before planting), seed planting depth, moisture, and warmth.

You can plant in 6-cell trays if you have a large number of plants, or 3-4" pots if you have only a handful to plant. If you have the space indoors to plant directly in 3-4" pots, I recommend it.

Here's a breakdown of the steps involved:

• Gather your supplies: seeds, seed starting trays, potting soil, germination tray, humidity dome, plant labels, a spray bottle, and a seed heating mat.

• Choose the type of soil for planting - normal potting soil with added nutrients is recommended over seed starting mixes for simplicity.

• Label your pots with the variety of peppers to be grown and the planting date to track progress.

• Pre-moisten the potting soil and mix it thoroughly, aiming for even moisture without becoming muddy with excess water.

• Fill pots with soil, leaving room at the top; tamp down lightly to remove air pockets.

• Plant seeds by making a shallow hole about 1/4" deep in the soil, adding at least two seeds per cell/container, covering gently, and misting the surface.

• Keep seeds in warm and moist conditions for germination using a humidity dome or alternative cover, and a seed heating mat or warm location in the house. The ideal temperature is around 80-85°F for germination.

• Monitor for signs of sprouting within 4-10 days, ensuring seeds remain moist and never dry out before sprouting.

• After the seeds sprout, remove the humidity dome and shut off the heating mat. The ideal temperature for sprouted seedlings is around 70-75°F.

By following these steps and providing the right conditions, you should successfully germinate your pepper seeds. Be sure to watch for potential issues and stay tuned for germination tips in the next lesson.

Lesson Summary

While germinating pepper seeds, several potential issues may arise:

• A seed's age can impact success rate; older seeds may lead to poor germination rates. If your seeds are older, consider planting more seeds per container so that at least 1 sprouts.

• Not all seeds germinate at the same speed; some varieties need more time. For example, C. chinense and C. pubescens species may need 2-3 weeks or longer to sprout.

• Never allow seeds to dry out before sprouting, as this can halt germination or kill the seedlings before they break the surface.

• Algae or mold growth on the soil's surface is common but usually does not pose a threat.

• Planting seeds too deep can impact sprouting; optimal depth is about a quarter of an inch (1/2 cm).

• Soaking seeds before planting can potentially improve germination rates.

Key tips for successful pepper seed germination:

1. Maintain moisture by regularly spritzing the surface.

2. Keep the soil warm (80-85°F) for the quickest germination.

3. Practice patience as peppers take longer to sprout compared to other plants.

Lesson Summary

In due time, pepper seedlings will sprout and require attention to grow strong. Here are some key points to consider:

• Seedlings require light immediately after they sprout.

• It is helpful to sprout seeds under a grow light, especially when some seeds sprout before others.

• Grouping the same or similar varieties of peppers in separate trays can be useful so that similar types sprout at the same time together.

• After sprouting, remove the humidity dome and heating mat when most or all of the seeds have sprouted.

Window light vs. grow light sources:

• While sunlight through a window is free and energy-saving, it may not provide consistent light or warmth (cloudy days, obstructions outdoors, UV resistant window glass, poor light exposure in late winter/early spring).

• For optimal growth, LED grow lights are highly recommended, providing 15 hours of light daily and 9 hours of darkness.

• The hanging height of grow lights varies depending on the type used.

Other factors to consider for pepper seedling growth include:

• Maintain a temperature range of 70-75°F for ideal growth.

• Provide airflow by using a fan to strengthen plant stems.

• Reflect as much light onto plants as possible and rotate trays for even lighting.

• Spritz the soil surface as seedlings emerge to prevent issues with seed coat.

For the first 2-4 weeks of life, keep your seedlings under grow lights in these ideal conditions until they are ready for transplanting. Monitor for issues like light burn, temperature dips overnight, and even pests.

Lesson Summary

During the winter, your home may have very dry air. After removing the humidity dome from your plants, you may need to water your seedlings more regularly.

Here's how to bottom water your seedlings:

1. Pour room temperature water into a tray without holes, filling it to about a 1/2 inch depth.

2. Allow the water to be absorbed into the soil from below, ensuring saturation of the soil up to the surface.

3. Check that the surface of the soil changes from dry to wet to know if the seedlings are fully watered.

4. Remove any excess water at the bottom of the trays to prevent issues with overwatering.

5. On average, we water our seedlings every two to three days, depending on the humidity and airflow in your home.

6. Most importantly, check the soil's moisture level regularly to determine if the plants need watering, rather than sticking to a time schedule.

When your seedlings grow beyond the cotyledon stage and true leaves emerge, they may require additional nutrients. Here's how to provide supplemental fertilizer:

• If you used a nutrient-free seed starter mix, supplement with a low-strength water-soluble fertilizer after the first 1 week of growth.

• Use 1/4-1/2 of the recommended strength of the fertilizer to avoid overwhelming the plants with nutrients.

• Dissolve the fertilizer in water, bottom water the seedlings with the nutrient solution, and you're done. Follow the recommended guidelines for frequency, usually every 1-2 weeks.

If you used a normal potting mix (with added nutrients), you should not need to fertilize at all during this stage. These types of soil contain sufficient nutrients for young pepper seedlings. Most potting soil can support the initial growth of pepper seedlings through to transplanting outdoors.

Lesson Summary

Common problems that can occur at the seedling stage include:

• Damping off: Caused by a fungal pathogen thriving in cool and damp conditions, symptoms include seedlings falling over at the stem base and brown discoloration. Prevention involves maintaining temperatures between 70-75°F, avoiding overwatering, using a small fan for aeration, and using room temperature water.

• Tall and lanky seedlings: Indicates the need for more light, adjust by moving lights closer to plants or finding a sunnier window. However, keep in mind that some varieties naturally grow taller than others.

• Helmet heads: Peppers emerging with their seed coat stuck on the first set of leaves can restrict growth and potentially kill the plant. To help, moisten the seed coat with water, allowing it to soak for several minutes. Then, gently remove the seed coat, being careful not to break the stem or the first set of leaves.

• Leaf curl: Can result from too much light, overwatering, or pest issues. Natural leaf movement during the night is normal (leaves tend to fold upwards after the lights shut off). Adjust light distance or intensity if leaves appear curling or bubbly.

• Mold or algae growth on soil: White mold or green algae on the soil surface indicates an excess of moisture. Water less frequently, improve airflow. Optionally, sprinkle cinnamon on the soil to suppress fungal growth.

Lesson Summary

If you planted your seeds in 6-cell trays, the seedlings will need to be up-potted after a few weeks of growth.

When your pepper seedlings have two sets of true leaves, it's time to transplant them into larger containers for more room to grow. Here's how you can tell if they're ready:

• Check for two sets of "true" leaves. These are the leaves that emerge after the initial set of seedling leaves (cotyledons).

• Examine the roots for growth to the bottom and sides of the seedling cells.

When you're ready to transplant your seedlings, you'll need a few supplies:

• Larger containers like 3-4-inch square nursery pots.

• Normal potting soil instead of seed starter mix, or a soil mix that has been amended with fertilizer.

• Plant labels or markers for identification.

• Water for pre-moistening the soil.

The transplanting process involves:

• Pre-moistening the potting soil.

• Labeling the larger containers with plant varieties.

• Filling containers and making holes for the root balls.

• Loosening seedling roots and moving them into the new containers.

• Watering the plants in after transplantation.

Make sure not to bury the stem of the seedling, planting it at the same depth as before to prevent rot. With proper care, your pepper plants will thrive and grow rapidly in their new containers.

Next, focus on providing adequate lighting, watering, and fertilizing to support the continued growth of your pepper seedlings during the adolescent stage.

Lesson Summary

When dealing with plants in larger containers, you'll need more space compared to smaller trays.

Here are some key points to keep in mind:

• Consider using a seed starting shelf to accommodate more plants indoors.

• Ensure plants receive adequate lighting by rotating trays for even exposure.

• Plants naturally grow closer to light sources as they develop, but monitor for signs of light burn and adjust the height if necessary.

• Gradually increase light intensity over time, and watch for signs of stress.

• Water plants by bottom watering or top watering at the base of the plant to avoid damaging them.

• Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings to encourage healthy root development.

• Be cautious with fertilizing - wait a week after transplanting before starting, and adjust feeding strength based on plant growth.

• Consider staking weak or flimsy plants to promote upright growth and stem strength.

Lesson Summary

As your plants continue to grow in larger containers, you may start to see early flower buds or even early fruits forming. It's important to manage this growth to ensure the plants prioritize growing larger before beginning fruit production:

• Picking off early flower buds and fruits is recommended for young plants that are still in small containers.

• Continue removing flowers until the plants are established in their final planting location for 3-4 weeks.

• Be careful not to damage the young stems and shoots when picking off these buds and fruits. An simple tip for this is to wait for the flower buds to open or for the flowers to start forming fruits before removing them.

• Early flowering usually indicates that the plant is ready to be transplanted and has outgrown its existing pot.

If you notice many early flowers forming, adjust your planting schedule for the next year. Plant your seeds 1-2 weeks later next year to prevent pre-mature flowering indoors.

Lesson Summary

As spring approaches, the process of transitioning indoor plants to the outdoors, known as hardening off, is crucial to ensure their successful adjustment to the outdoor elements:

• Main factors outdoors include direct sunlight, fluctuating temperatures, and wind.

• Hardening off typically takes about two weeks.

• It is recommended to start about a week or two after the last frost date, or when temperatures are in the mid-60s Fahrenheit during the day.

Here is a step-by-step guide on how to harden off your pepper plants:

• Start on a cloudy day or in the shade.

• Bring plants outdoors for about an hour initially, then back indoors under grow lights.

• Increase outdoor time gradually by 30-60 minutes daily

• Introduce direct sunlight after 2-3 days.

• Focus on the new leaves that form during this process will be hardier to handle direct sunlight.

Additional tips for hardening off pepper plants include:

• Use trays and/or a wagon to transport multiple plants efficiently.

• Protect plants from temperatures below 55°F by bringing them back indoors overnight.

• Protect seedlings from hungry animals by raising them off the ground on a table or similar.

• Monitor soil dryness and water plants as needed - wind and sunlight can cause more water usage.

• Some leaf drooping is normal during this process, move plants back to shade if it seems excessive.

• Transplant to larger containers if necessary during hardening off, as long as you have enough space indoors for the larger containers.

Once plants are acclimated to the outdoors, complete the hardening off process in the final intended planting location. Once the outdoors temperatures are consistently remaining above 55°F overnight, plants can remain outdoors for good!

Lesson Summary

If you are planting in raised beds or directly in the ground, I recommend preparing your soil at least two weeks in advance. This involves adding a granular, slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer and/or compost into the first inch or two of the soil surface. Avoid aggressively tilling the soil to as this can disturb the soil life and bring up dormant weed seeds.

• Rake the soil flat and pull up any weeds before planting.

• If growing in containers, pre-moisten the soil before filling pots and transplanting.

Ensure overnight temperatures do not drop below 55°F before transplanting into the ground. If you want to plant earlier, you can use a cloche or similar covering to insulate the young plants from cold.

Peppers thrive in full sun locations, with taller plants positioned to the North of peppers and shorter plants to the South to avoid shading. Space pepper plants between 18 and 24 inches apart for optimal growth and harvest accessibility.

• Transplant peppers by digging a hole large enough to accommodate the root ball, placing the plant at original soil level, and creating a water-collecting trench around the base.

• Support each plant using a stake or a tomato cage for larger types (bell peppers, poblanos, etc.).

• Water thoroughly, fully saturating the root ball and surrounding soil to help the plants get established.

While watering, focus on deep saturating to encourage deeper root growth and drought resistance. Remove large flower buds or early fruits initially to promote root establishment and foliage growth.

After 2-3 weeks outdoors, plants should be ready to begin forming flowers and fruit production. Care for your plants, but avoid overwatering and over-fertilizing. Adopt the mindset of "less is more" at this stage to avoid over-caring for your plants. Remember that they are busy adjusting to a new home, and will soon be growing larger.

Lesson Summary

Mulch is a simple soil covering that offers numerous benefits in the garden:

• Suppresses weeds by preventing weed seeds from germinating.

• Insulates plants from temperature swings, keeping roots cool in the heat of summer.

• Natural mulches add nutrients back into the soil as it breaks down, aiding in plant growth.

• Helps prevent diseases by creating a barrier between soil and foliage, especially during heavy rain.

When choosing a mulch, consider natural options like leaf mulch or straw for optimal benefits:

• A mulch should be porous to allow water penetration, but also applied at a thick enough depth to prevent weed growth.

• Leaf mulch is our current favorite, but other options include straw, pine needles, dried grass clippings, and wood chips.

• Be cautious with grass clippings or straw treated with herbicides to avoid harming plants.

To apply mulch effectively:

• Layer it at least 2-3 inches deep to prevent weeds.

• Keep mulch 1-2 inches away from plant bases to reduce disease spread.

• Avoid digging mulch into the soil; it should just be laid on the surface of the soil.

There are a few drawbacks to consider when using mulch:

• It can be a home for some pests like earwigs, slugs, and snails.

• Some mulches may create a surface mat that hinders water penetration (like un-dried grass clippings).

• Mulches can be flammable, so caution is advised, especially in arid regions or near homes.

In our opinion, the many benefits of using mulch in the garden outweigh the disadvantages, making it a recommended addition for soil improvement over time.

Lesson Summary

After moving your plants outdoors, it's important to remain vigilant as there are potential threats to your garden:

• Animals like deer, groundhogs, rabbits, and chipmunks can feed on your plants; consider using a physical barrier (such as a fence) or a wildlife deterrent like Liquid Fence (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TS4WBUQ) containing putrescent whole egg solids.

• Unexpected late cold spells can harm your plants; for container plants, bring them indoors during frost. For plants in the ground, use mulch for insulation and cover them with floating row cover or a cloche to protect them from frost.

• Pests like aphids, thrips, whiteflies, caterpillars, beetles, and stink bugs can damage your plants; monitor your garden for signs of pests and beneficial insects. Use a bug identifier app like "Picture Insect" to know what is in your garden before taking any action.

Lesson Summary

After moving your plants outdoors, you may notice some stress in the form of wilting leaves, which is normal on hot days.

To address this:

• Check the soil's moisture below the surface and water as needed.

• Heat and sunlight stress is normal for the first month or so of outdoor growth.

• Stunted growth is also typical for the first few weeks after transplanting as the plants get established.

Plants prioritize root development before foliage growth, so trust the process. Look out for pests and consider applying liquid fertilizer if you notice:

• Pale or yellowing leaves.

• Stunted plants for more than 4 weeks that is not associated with early fruits being on the plant or smaller than recommended pot size.

Water deeply and infrequently to ensure there is moisture at and below the root system. This promotes a robust root system that is deep and able to access nutrients from deeper layers of the ground soil.

Avoid shallow watering to prevent the roots from growing superficially, leading to smaller plants and lower yields. It's essential not to overcare for your peppers as they adjust to their new setting.

Lesson Summary

Once your pepper plants are outside and established, the primary goal is to encourage them to produce a big yield.

Most pepper plants will produce their fruits in batches, with the first batch coming around mid-summer, followed by additional flushes of fruits every month or so until the cold weather arrives.

Here are some tips to maximize your pepper plant yield:

• Provide mid-season feeding to boost plant growth and yield. This is especially crucial for container-grown plants that often deplete the soil's nutrients during early stage growth.

• Keep diseases and pests at bay by mulching around the plants and bottom-pruning lower foliage to prevent soil-borne diseases and improve airflow.

• Improve airflow around the plants to prevent pathogens from thriving, particularly in wet or humid conditions. Do this through proper spacing and thinning of lower foliage.

• To prevent flower drop and lower yields, avoid adding too much nitrogen fertilizer. Look for fertilizers with a lower nitrogen content and higher potassium.

• Provide shade during extra hot weather. Use shade cloth or move potted plants into the shade during heatwaves.

• Regularly harvest peppers to free up space on the plant for new fruit growth, particularly important for green varieties like jalapeños and other green-harvested peppers.

Lesson Summary

Peppers can be harvested before or after ripening. Some of the most popular peppers are harvested before they change color, while others are allowed to turn color and mature before picking:

• Bell peppers, jalapeños, banana peppers, serrano peppers, cubanelles, and others are typically harvested before changing color.

• Scotch bonnets, cayennes, habanero peppers, ghost peppers, and Carolina reapers are allowed to mature and change color on the plant before harvest.

Peppers are edible at any stage of growth, so if you picked too early and you don't like the flavor, consider it a learning experience.

How to know when to pick your peppers

For peppers typically harvested before ripening:

• Allow the pepper to reach a full size, and then leave it on the plant for a week or two longer to begin maturing. Then, harvest it.

• Harvest jalapeños and bell peppers when the green color deepens slightly and the pepper begins to mature, ensuring the pepper is firm and crisp.

For ripe harvesting:

• Wait for the pepper to fully change color on the plant before picking.

• If you notice "corking," or small white lines on your peppers, don't worry, as this is a natural phenomenon.

When it comes to harvesting technique:

• Most peppers will easily snap off at their stems with an upwards motion.

• Be cautious not to damage the plant when picking, especially with larger stemmed types like bell peppers.

• Consider using pruning shears for a clean cut.

Lesson Summary

When growing two different pepper varieties near each other, cross-pollination may occur. While having the plants close won't create hybrid fruits during the same growing season, it can lead to hybrid seeds if you plan to save them for future planting.

• If you wish to prevent hybridization, isolate the flower buds before they open on the plant you want to save seeds from. This can be done using 'organza' bags, cheesecloth, or a cloth bag to cover the peppers and avoid pollen transfer.

• The covering can be used for a single cluster of flowers, a branch, or even the entire plant. Remove the covering once the flowers begin forming into fruits, and allow the fruit to develop. Important: Remember to mark the isolated fruits for harvesting later!

Overall, cross-pollination between peppers is not a concern unless you intend to save and plant the seeds in the future. Proper isolation techniques can help maintain the purity of your desired pepper varieties.

Lesson Summary

Stunted plant growth is a common issue among new growers, and there are several factors that can contribute to this problem:

• Stunted growth is common for the first three or four weeks after transplanting outdoors as plants focus on root system development.

• Timing is critical for transplanting pepper plants; delaying can lead to root entanglement and slowed growth.

• Failing to remove early fruits from young plants can divert energy from leaf and branch growth to fruit production. Always remove early flower buds and fruits just after transplanting.

• Cold weather, poor drainage, low nutrients, or pH imbalances can all cause stunted growth.

• Herbicide contamination in soil, mulch, or compost from store-bought bags can be damaging to peppers and other crops.

• Competition from weeds can hinder growth, so regular weeding is essential.

It is important to assess your garden holistically to identify the most likely cause of stunted growth and take appropriate action to promote healthier plant development.

Lesson Summary

When growing peppers, it's common for some flowers to fall off. This varies from one pepper type to another, as some have a tendency to be more productive than others. For example, bell peppers tend to produce fewer peppers per plant than cayenne peppers. As a result, you are likely to see more flowers falling from your bell pepper plants.

Excessive flower drop and low fruit productivity can be caused by:

• High temperatures above 90°F

• Excessive nitrogen in the soil

• Poor pollination, especially common indoors

• Infertility in the plant (rare)

Here are some solutions to these issues:

• Avoid high temperatures by providing some shade during hot periods, especially in the afternoon heat.

• Be cautious with nitrogen-rich fertilizers, especially later in the season during flowering/fruit production.

• Assist pollination by gently shaking plants, or by using a fan indoors

• Check for self-fertility by observing the presence of white powdery pollen on the open flowers.

Remember, the sight of flowers falling off is generally nothing to worry about, as some flowers will naturally drop while others will produce fruits.

Lesson Summary

Curled pepper plant leaves are a common occurrence, and are usually not a cause for concern unless the issue is severe.

There are natural reasons for leaf curling:

• Young, newly formed leaves tend to be slightly curled upon formation, flattening out after a day or two.

• In hot weather, leaves curl inward to defend against excessive heat.

Environmental causes of pepper leaf curl include:

• Plant edema is common indoors, leading to curled leaves which often resolve when plants move outside. Try to improve airflow and adjust humidity to the ideal range between 50-70% RH.

• Overwatering can cause curling or deformed leaves.

• Pest damage can lead to curled or misshapen leaves, especially on younger leaves. Inspect regularly for pests on young foliage, underneath leaves, and on flowers. If indoors, spraying may be necessary while outdoors we prefer to allow natural predators to help.

• Grow lights that are positioned too close to your pepper plants indoors may cause leaves to curl upwards, forming a "taco shell" shape.

• Diseases can cause curled or deformed leaves that may not reach maturity.

• Nutrient deficiencies, especially calcium, can result in "bubbled" foliage or incomplete leaves and/or fruits.

• Newly transplanted peppers outside often suffer from leaf scorch or sunscald, leading to crispy, misshapen leaves and white discoloration.

• Herbicides from nearby non-organic farms can drift, causing leaf deformation.

Curled leaves are not usually a serious concern and often resolve with improved growing conditions. Addressing the root cause should normalize newer growth, though already-curled leaves will not uncurl.

Lesson Summary

Wilting or drooping leaves on your pepper plants can often be resolved by watering them adequately. However, if the wilting persists even after watering, other factors might be at play:

• Excessive heat during the hottest part of summer can cause wilting, especially in container plants. This is very common just after transplanting outdoors, especially if the hardening off period was rushed. Check on the plants overnight to see if the wilting is rebounding in the cooler overnight temps.

• Overwatering or poor drainage can also result in wilted leaves with signs like bubbling or curling. Root rot is a serious issue, so be sure to address any drainage issues as soon as possible.

• If neither watering nor heat stress seem to be the cause, your plant may be suffering from a disease like verticillium wilt, which can devastate pepper plants and other crops.

To prevent these issues, consider the following measures:

• Water container plants daily during hot weather to keep the root system hydrated.

• Transition plants gradually outdoors to help them adjust to the environment (hardening off).

• Avoid overwatering by ensuring proper drainage and mulching around the plant base.

• Maintain cleanliness in the garden by keeping hands and tools clean and removing diseased plants promptly.

If a disease is suspected, try your best to identify the disease and whether it can be treated. If it is a contagious viral infection, it may be best to remove it from the garden.

Disease resources:

• Pepper crop disease information (Purdue) - https://ag.purdue.edu/department/arge/swpap/pepper-diseases.html

• Disease information (Penn State) - https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/pepper-bell/infos

Lesson Summary

Yellowing leaves on pepper plants can indicate various issues:

• Nutrient deficiencies such as nitrogen or magnesium can be the cause.

• Nitrogen deficiency, one of the most common, causes yellowing starting at the bottom of the plant, moving upward over time.

• Fertilization, particularly with a liquid-based, nitrogen-rich fertilizer, will help.

• Cold weather below 50°F might lead to yellowing leaves, typically in a random scattered pattern throughout the plant.

• Pests or diseases can result in yellowing leaves, often with spots or holes that spread over time.

• Overwatering or poor drainage can also lead to dying, yellowing leaves.

• A plant will often naturally shed a few yellow leaves to conserve energy, typically in areas receiving less light.

• Some yellowing on pepper plants is normal and not necessarily a cause for concern.

Lesson Summary

Since overwatering can cause so many issues, it's important to understand how you can avoid it:

• For potted plants, ensure the container has drainage holes and they are not blocked to allow proper drainage.

• If the pot lacks drainage holes, consider drilling holes or transferring the plant to a container with drainage.

• For in-ground drainage, test soil drainage by digging a 12" deep hole, filling it with water, and measuring how quickly it drains. For ideal drainage, the water should drain about 2-3 inches per hour.

To improve poor drainage:

• For the short term, elevate the root system by planting on top of mounds or in raised beds.

• For a long-term fix, focus on building healthier soil by adding compost to improve drainage and air in the soil.

• Never walk on your garden's soil, as this can lead to compaction. Define clear walking paths in your garden and always use them to navigate through your plants.

• Protect the soil from erosion and heavy precipitation by covering it with mulch or planting cover crops.

Lesson Summary

Pepper plants may have holes in their leaves or fruits, caused by various pests such as beetles, slugs, and caterpillars.

Some pests to watch out for:

• Japanese beetles

• Asiatic beetles

• Slugs and snails

• European corn borer

• Caterpillars

• Pepper weevils

• Cutworms

• Stink bugs

• Earwigs

Inspection is crucial to identify the specific pest that is present. Some pests are nocturnal, so checking at night with a flashlight may be necessary. Solutions vary, from hand-picking pests, to using food-safe pesticides in extreme cases.

For example, if you notice holes directly in the fruits near the top of the peppers, you may have European corn borer larvae boring into the peppers. In this case, you'll find the white worms feeding on the inside of the peppers.

It's important to act promptly if the problem gets worse. Waiting may be an option as well, as most pests have peak active seasons. If the issue worsens and plant health is affected, intervention may be required.

Further guidance on managing specific pests will be covered in an upcoming video.

Lesson Summary

General pest prevention for pepper plants includes three main tips:

• Keep your plants healthy by providing nutrients, light, and proper care.

• Harvest peppers promptly to avoid vulnerability to pests.

• Diversify your garden with various plant types to increase overall pest tolerance.

Common pests that can affect pepper plants include:

• Aphids, thrips, whiteflies, and spider mites - sap-sucking insects that reproduce quickly. Avoid spraying for these pests outdoors, as it is almost impossible to get rid of them completely. You'll do more harm to beneficial insects than the pests.

• Slugs and snails - they can be hand-picked off plants at night or deterred with copper tape.

• Caterpillars - chew the edges of leaves and are best hand-removed or sprayed with BT.

• Japanese beetles and Asiatic beetles - can be removed by hand and placed into soapy water.

• Stink bugs - hand-picking or using neem oil for control.

When using pesticides:

• Indoor pest issues must be addressed, so apply insecticidal soap or neem oil for these dire situations.

• If you intend to spray, try to use pest-specific insecticides such as BT for caterpillars or Spinosad for thrips and leafminers.

• Only spray plants after sunset to avoid harming beneficial insects and to prevent leaf burns.

*Use the "Picture Insect" app to identify unknown insects (some scary-looking insects are actually beneficial!)

Remember to maintain plant health, harvest promptly, and diversify your garden to prevent and control pests effectively.

Lesson Summary

Disease identification resources:

• Pepper crop disease information (Purdue) - https://ag.purdue.edu/department/arge/swpap/pepper-diseases.html

• Disease information (Penn State) - https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/pepper-bell/infos

Growing peppers can be challenging due to the various diseases that can affect the plants. While we won't cover specific diseases in this lesson, here are some tips to help you prevent and manage diseases:

• Plant disease-resistant varieties (https://peppergeek.com/disease-resistant-pepper-varieties/) to avoid infections.

• Avoid watering over plant leaves to prevent the spread of fungal pathogens.

• Mulch and bottom prune to prevent soil splashing onto plants.

• Companion plant to help control pests like aphids, which can introduce diseases to your plants.

• Maintain good hygiene in the garden by washing hands and cleaning tools regularly.

If your plants do become diseased, consider the following:

• Remove dead or diseased foliage promptly to prevent further spread, burning the plant material if possible.

• Identify the type of disease to determine appropriate treatment (see links above).

• Sometimes, certain diseases like viral infections may require removing the plant entirely.

Remember, it's essential to take a proactive approach with your plants, and if needed, be willing to try new varieties to maintain a healthy garden in the future.

Lesson Summary

As you start harvesting your fresh peppers, having a plan in place is ideal to avoid letting any go to waste. There are various ways to utilize your fresh peppers including:

• Making fresh salsa with tomatoes, green onions, and cilantro

  • https://peppergeek.com/jalapeno-salsa-recipe/

• Making stuffed peppers; sweet bell peppers, poblanos, and banana peppers are perfect for this

  • https://peppergeek.com/stuffed-pepper-recipes/

• Making a spicy fermented pepper mash is great for tasty sauces

  • https://peppergeek.com/fermented-pepper-mash/

• Chopping up and frying peppers with seasonal veggies for a side dish

• Experimenting with making hot sauce using different flavor combinations

  • https://peppergeek.com/category/recipes/hot-sauce-recipes/

• Roasting peppers like jalapeños, hatch chilies, or poblanos to bring out flavors

When it comes to preservation, consider these methods for storing your excess peppers:

• Pickling them for a tasty snack or sandwich topper, jalapeños and banana peppers work well for this

  • https://peppergeek.com/how-to-pickle-jalapeno-peppers/

• Freezing them whole or chopped, using a vacuum sealer for longer storage

• Dehydrating them in an oven or food dehydrator for spice blends or hot sauce making

It's important to find ways to store your excess peppers for long-term use, and these methods will help you enjoy your harvest throughout the year!

Lesson Summary

When using up your pepper harvests, consider saving some seeds to plant next year.

Here's how:

• Saving seeds from heirloom pepper varieties is recommended over hybrids. Heirlooms are stable and suitable for saving seeds.

• Remove seeds from fully-ripe peppers and allow them to dry at room temperature for about a week.

• Use a fan or place near a window to aid in drying.

• Avoid using a food dehydrator as temperatures can be too high and may kill seeds.

• Store dried seeds in a labeled paper envelope or plastic baggie for 3-5 years at room temperature, or longer in the refrigerator.

• Ensure seeds are completely dried before storage and use a desiccant packet to remove excess moisture.

• For hot peppers, wear nitrile gloves when handling to prevent skin burns from capsaicin.

• Ensure thorough handwashing after handling hot pepper seeds, even if wearing gloves, using dish soap and friction to remove oils.

• If you get a burn, apply cold milk for relief.

Lesson Summary

To prevent damage to your fruits, pepper plants should be fully harvested before experiencing a hard frost. Once your plants have reached the end of the season, it's a great time to prepare your garden for next spring.

Here are some fall garden tips:

• Clean up plant debris that has fallen to the ground, as it can harbor pests and diseases.

• Uproot plants (optional, you can also just cut them off at the base of the stem and leave the roots in the soil to decompose), shake off excess soil, and compost healthy plant material. If possible, chop up the plant material into smaller pieces for quicker decomposition.

• Create a compost pile for next year's garden by combining leafy plants, grass clippings, shredded cardboard, and dried leaves in a 1:2 ratio of greens to brown materials. Learn more about composting here: https://geekygreenhouse.com/how-to-speed-up-compost-pile/

• Aim for a size of 3x3x3 feet, add water, and turn the pile regularly.

• Avoid composting diseased plants to prevent spreading diseases.

• After 2-3 months of breaking down, cover the finished compost with a tarp to retain nutrients until spring when it can be used as a soil amendment.

• Protect your garden soil over the winter by covering your beds with mulch or a tarp to prevent exposure and erosion, while also adding nutrients back into the soil.

Don't forget, fall is an excellent time to find deals on pots and other gardening accessories for the spring season at home improvement stores. Make sure to take advantage of these opportunities to prepare for the upcoming gardening season!