The Art of Sewing

MARKING TOOLS AND METHODS

Use the method, or combination of methods, that suits your needs and the fabric.

FABRIC MARKING PENS are one of the fastest and easiest ways to mark. These pens contain a disappearing ink that makes it possible to mark on either the right or wrong side of the fabric.
There are two types of disappearing ink pens:

• WATER-SOLUBLE MARKING PENS contain a blue ink that disappears when the marks are treated with plain water.

• EVAPORATING, оr AIR-SOLUBLE, MARKING PENS contain a purple ink that simply evaporates from the fabric, usually in less than 48 hours. To make sure that your markings will still be visible when you need them, don’t use these pens until just before you’re ready to sew.

No matter which type of marking pen you choose, be sure to test for removability on a scrap of your fashion fabric. If your fabric water-spots or is dry-clean-only then the water-soluble pen is not a good choice. If the evaporating ink leaves an oily residue on the fabric, it’s not a good choice, either.

DRESSMAKER’S MARKING PENCILS are available in two styles. The first contains a lead-like substance that can be washed out of the garment. The second contains a soft, chalklike substance. The chalk pencils have a stiff brush on one end to “erase” the markings once the garment is completed. Test first on a scrap of your fabric to determine if you can use the chalk on the right side of the fabric. Mark as the disappearing pens, using straight pins to locate the position of the symbols. Mark on the right or wrong side of the fashion fabric, as appropriate.

TAILOR’S CHALK is washable chalk used to mark the fabric at hemlines and other construction lines.

CHALK WHEEL has a small wheel that rolls smoothly across the fabric and disperses an even, fine line of chalk. Pre-test on sample fabric before using.

TRACING PAPER (sometimes called dressmaker’s carbon) and a tracing wheel are a good choice for marking smooth, flat-surfaced fabrics. On textured or bulky fabrics, the markings may be hard to see.
Traditionally, tracing paper markings were permanent. This meant that you couldn’t use this method for sheers or for marking on the right side of the fabric. The introduction of “disappearing” tracing paper has changed all that. The markings can be sponged off with clear water. If you use one of these new tracing papers, read the manu­facturer’s directions carefully. Test first on a scrap of your fashion fab­ric. The heat of your iron may per­manently set some of these formu­las. If this is the case, sponge off the markings before you press that area of the garment.

You can usually save time by marking two layers at once. How­ever, heavyweight fabrics must be marked one layer at a time so that the markings are visible.

THERE ARE THREE TYPES OF TRACING WHEELS to choose from smooth edge, blunt edge teeth or sharp (pinpoint) teeth. If you are using one with sharp teeth, mark it on a protected surface, such as a cutting board, or slip a magazine or piece of cardboard underneath the fabric and pattern.

To mark, remove any pins that are in your way and position the tracing paper between the layers of fabric and pattern. For standard tracing paper, the carbon sides should face the wrong sides of the fabric; for disappearing tracing paper, the carbon can face either the right or the wrong sides of the fabric. Roll the tracing wheel over any symbols to be marked. Use a ruler as a guide when tracing straight lines. Mark dots with an X so that one of the bars of the X is on the stitching line.

HERA MARKER. Hera has been used in Japan for centuries and is used to make non-permanent crease “marks” on silks and other fabrics. It leaves no residues. Use this tool to create creases in fabrics. It has been a favorite tool of quilters for years to create patterns and guidelines on quilts. A hera is used similarly to a paper bone folder and will make creases that can be seen on the front and back of the fabric. Hera is comfortable to hold and can be used to create curved or straight lines.

HAND OR MACHINE BASTING is a way to transfer markings from the wrong side to the right side of the fabric. It’s particularly useful for indicating placement lines, such as those for pockets or buttonholes, for marking center front and center back along the full length of the pattern piece, and for marking pleat fold lines and placement lines.

Use any appropriate method to mark the wrong side of the fabric. Then separate the layers of fabric and hand- or machine-baste along the marking points. Now the markings are visible on the inside and outside of the garment.

SNIP MARKING is a fast way to mark the ends of darts, fold lines, pleats, and tucks, as well as center fronts and center backs. It’s also an alternative way to mark notches. Just make a small clip in the seam allowance at the marking point.

PRESS MARKING is used in conjunction with snip marking to mark fold lines for details such as extended facings, folded casings, pleats and tucks.

Make a tiny clip in the seam allowance at each end of the fold-line. If pleats or tucks do not extend the length of the pattern piece, use one of the methods described earlier to mark the end of the fold line.

• Unpin and remove the pattern tissue so you can press-mark each fabric layer separately.

• Fold the fabric's wrong sides together, using the clip marks as guides, and press the fold.

Intro to Hand Sewing or the Art of Couture.

Stitches are created in a complete sewing action, using a threaded needle. They may be produced either by hand or machine. Stitches may be functional or decorative, and they may be concealed within or show on the face of a garment.

Permanent Stitches are used for seams, darts, and tucks. The length and tension of the stitch vary, depending on the fabric used. On most mediumweight fabric, there are about 10 to 12 stitches per inch; sheers require a finer stitch length, about 14 stitches per inch; heavyweight fabric generally needs 8 to 10 stitches per inch.

Tip: Areas where there is a strain or a need for reinforcement, such as points of collars, cuffs, and pointed-faced openings of necklines, need a finer, tighter stitch, usually 16 to 18 stitches per inch.

Basting stitches are long temporary stitches made by hand or machine, approximately 6 stitches per inch. The ends are not fastened or backstitched. Before basting stitches are removed, threads are every few inches to facilitate removal.

Tip: In pin basting, pins are used to hold fabric pieces together, and placed so that they can be easily removed as stitched. You use as many pins as necessary to keep the layers of fabric from slipping.

PLAIN SEAM USING A BASTING STITCH.

A basting stitch is used to sew two pieces of fabric together when a temporary seam is needed. This may be in the slot seam, an open welt seam, or the preliminary seam for setting a railroad zipper. It may also be used in seam areas of the garment for preliminary fittings. The length of the stitch is about 6 stitches per inch and is generally the longest stitch on the machine. The width of the seam allowance is the same as that of the plain seam.

1. Place one piece of fabric on the sewing table with the correct side up.

2. Place the second piece of fabric on the first piece, with the correct sides together.

3. Pull both the bobbin and needle threads under and behind the presser foot.

4. Place both pieces of fabric under the presser foot at the beginning of the garment piece stitch line, with the edges of the fabric on the seam guidelines.

5. Following the seam guidelines, use the longest stitch. Do not backstitch. Continue sewing along the stitchline to complete the seam.

6. Pull the fabric and slip the threads.

7. Press the seam open.

DIRECTIONAL STITCHING refers to the rules you should follow on the direction of your seam stitching. In general, shoulder seams are stitched from the neckline to the armhole; side seams from the underarm to the waistline; sleeve seams from the underarm to the wrist; and skirt seams from the hem to the waistline.

PLAIN SEAM

A plain seam is the simplest seam to make and is the basis for many other seams. It is a good choice for the novice sewer. This seam can be used on woven and knit fabrics and on straight or curved areas. It can be constructed by hand or machine. A seam finish is needed on most woven fabrics, especially when the seam is exposed, and when knit fabric curls or rolls. Plain seams may be straight-stitched or zigzagged.

Steps:

1. Place the right sides of the fabric together, matching the stitching lines. Pin and/or hand baste.

2. Stitch along the 5/8-inch seam line. Stitching may begin and end with backstitching (stitch forward a few stitches, then backward, then forward to the end). A narrow, open zigzag stitch can be used on knit or stretch fabrics.

3. Press the seam flat and then open it.

Zig-zag stitches are sewing machine stitches that have a saw-toothed shape.

Zig-zag stitches are used to join two pieces of fabric together to create a decorative design. The stitch length and width can be varied, depending upon the desired use. Also, when using a zig-zag stitch on the seam edge this will prevent raveling.

UNDERSTITCHING is a row of stitching on the facing or underlayer that keeps the facing, underlayer, or seam edge from rolling to the outside of the garment. When understitching, you press the facing away from the garment and position all the layers of the seam allowance to the facing side. On the correct side of the facing, you machine stitch close to the seam edge. While stitching, gently pull the facing and the garment sections on both sides of the stitch line to help make both pieces lay flat.

STITCHING IN THE DITCH is sewing in the ridge of a previously stitched seam, on the correct side of the garment. Because it is sewn into the ridge of a seam, it is an inconspicuous stitch. It is used to complete waistbands, cuffs, collars, and French bias binding when you don’t want the stitching to be obvious. You use a regular stitch length and thread, whose color matches the fabric.

EDGE STITCHING is stitching that is close to the seamline. Edge stitching should be right on the edge. If stitching is more than is inch from the edge, it is considered top stitching.

TOP STITCHING is a single or multiple rows of machine stitching made on the outside of the garment, through all layers of the garment. Top stitching is used to outline seams; attach pockets, plackets, or yokes; and add stability to a garment. It is mainly used as a decorative stitch. Usually, top stitching is done an inch from the edge. Top stitching is usually done with a longer-than usual plain stitch. The stitch length should be set to 6 to 8 stitches per inch so that it appears uniform. Top stitching is a smart and practical way to accent the seams of a fashion garment. It is usually done with thread the same color as the fabric. However, to accentuate the decorative effect of top stitching, a contrasting thread or buttonhole twist may be used as the upper thread. Because top stitching is visible on a garment, it requires careful placement and execution.

When positioning top stitching, always follow a guide. The edge of the presser foot is the most common guide used to apply straight and accurate topstitching. Other guides include a strip of masking tape, lines marked on the machine, and a guide attached to the throat plate or presser foot of the machine, such as a quilting guide.

Crimping and ease stitching are stitching methods used when one edge of a garment is slightly longer than the matching edge that is to be sewn to it. For the seam to appear smooth and not pucker or pleat, the longer piece must be crimped, or ease-stitched, to the shorter piece.

Crimping and ease stitching are most commonly used on sleeve caps, neckline edges that have been stretched out, princess seam curves over the bustline, and turned hems on slightly flared skirts.

FRENCH SEAM.
The French seam is strong and durable. Because the raw edges of this seam are completely enclosed, there is no need for an additional seam finish. This seam is usually used on lightweight woven, sheer, and other delicate fabrics. French seams may be constructed by hand or sewing machine.

Steps:

1. Place the wrong sides of the fabric together.

2. Stitch 3/8 inch from the cut edge of the fabric. Press.

3. Trim to within ⅛ to 1/4 inch of the stitching. Press the seam open.

4. Fold the fabric over at the seam, right sides together, covering the cut edges. Press again.

5. Stitch on the seam line, approximately 1/4 inch from the folded edge, to enclose the raw edges.

6. Press flat and then to one side. Easily done on straight edges, the French seam can also be used on curved edges. The enclosed edges may need to be clipped before pressing in Step 3.

FLAT-FELL OR FLAT-FELLED.

This seam is designed for woven fabrics and straight edges. It is used when constructing sportswear, men’s and children’s wear, reversible items, and heavy-duty items requiring strong, durable seams. It is usually made with a sewing machine and can be difficult to construct on heavy fabric. No additional seam finish is necessary.

Steps:

1. Place the wrong sides of the fabric together. Stitch along the 5/8-inch seam line to make a plain seam. Press seam allowance to one side. Care should be taken to avoid pressing a
   pleat along the seam line.

2. Trim lower seam allowance (inside seam allowance) to 1/8 inch. Press.

3. Turn the top seam allowance edge under 1/4 inch. Press.

4. Stitch folded edge to under fabric, enclosing the raw edges.

HONG KONG

The Hong Kong finish is closely related to the bound finish but may not be as bulky as a bound finish using bias tape. It is used for coats, jackets, and other items with exposed seams. It can add a decorative touch if a contrasting or coordinating print fabric is used as the binding substance. Select a lightweight, firmly woven fabric, such as lining fabric or batiste, to use as binding. Choose a binding fabric that requires the same care techniques as the fabric.

Steps:

1. With the right sides of the fabric together, prepare a plain seam. Press open.

2. Cut several 1 1/4 – to 1 1/2-inch-wide bias strips from the lining, lightweight broadcloth/print cloth, or other lightweight woven fabric. Strips can match or coordinate with the fabric color. Sew bias strips together lengthwise. making a long continuous strip.

3. Stitch in the ditch (the crevice created by the seam) securing the bias strip to the underside of the seam allowance. Trim excess bias fabric close to the line of stitching on the underneath side.

SELF-BOUND

This finish is designed for lightweight fabrics. It is well suited to sheer or see-through items, especially when other finishes do not give them an attractive appearance, as in a sleeve cap or armhole. At least a 5/8-inch seam allowance is required.

Steps:

1. Begin with a plain seam. Trim one seam allowance to 1/8 inch.

2. Turn the remaining seam allowance under 1/8 inch and press.

3. Turn the folded seam allowance edge again over the 1/8 inch seam allowance so that it is enclosed/encased. Stitch close to the folded edge and the first line of stitching. This last stitching can be done by hand or machine.

MOCK FRENCH

This seam works on the same fabrics as the French seam. It looks like a plain seam from the right side and a small enclosed double-stitched seam on the underneath side. It can be constructed by hand but is usually done on a sewing machine. This seam is used when a French seam cannot be handled well, such as on a curved seam line. This is an excellent seam to use in the sleeve/armhole area of a sheer, special occasion garment, such as a wedding or prom dress, or a sheer blouse/jacket. No additional seam finish is required.

Steps:

1. Place the right sides of the seam allowances together. Stitch along the regular seam line.

2. Press the seam open, then flat.

3. Turn in both edges of the seam allowance approximately 1/4 inch. Press, then press together.

4. Stitch the folded edge together close to the edge.

Download half-scale bodice patterns to practice sewing and create facings.