Ten skills that you need in sewing as a beginner.

EASING:

Easing controls a little extra length, while gathering controls a large amount. The purpose of easing is to give a small amount of shaping. Garment areas that might use easing include back shoulder seams, set-in sleeve caps, waistbands, and hems. The eased area should be smooth and unpuckered when complete.

CATCH STITCH

The catch stitch is a hand stitch that is most commonly used on garment hems but can also be used to tack 2 pieces together. Its zig-zagged pattern allows for movement and give, making it an ideal stitch even for thicker fabrics and knits as well.

TACKING OR BASTING

In sewing, to tack or baste is to sew quick, temporary stitches that will later be removed. Tacking is used for a variety of reasons, such as holding a seam in place until it is sewn properly, or transferring pattern markings onto the garment.

THREAD CARRIER

It's simply a chain stitch where this loop of thread is going to go back through that loop continuously, creating a thread chain. It can be used as a hook eye, belt loops and also to keep linings together.

CLOSED SEAM

Step 1:

Place 2 pieces of fabric right sides together.

Step 2:

Straight machine stitch a 1cm seam.

Step 3:

Overlock the edge together and press to one side.

EDGE STITCH:

A cousin of topstitching is edgestitching, which is defined as a row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, normally ⅛” or less from the edge. It provides a crisp edge for facings, collars, pockets or any situation where you want a tight, professional finish along a seamed edge.

TOP STITCH:

In sewing, a top stitch is a row of stitching on the top of a garment that finishes raw edges as well as enhances the appearance. In addition to finishing fabric edges, it also strengthens them and prevents unraveling or stretching out of shape.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

CUT OUT 3 PIECES OF CALICO (30cm X 10cm or 4" X 11 1/2" ) OR ANY FABRIC YOU SO DESIRE.

EDGE STITCH

        Step 1:

• Make 3 closed seams. (closed seams video and instructions in the resources)

  
  

  Step 2:

• Press to one side.

  
  

  Step 3:

• The stitching closest to the edge is edge stitching. The stitch furthest from the edge is top stitching.

  
  

  Step 4:

• Create a top stitched seam, an edge stitched seam and a seam with both.

  
  

  Step 5:

• Overlock all around sampler and press.

FRENCH SEAM

Step 1:

Place 2 pieces of fabric WRONG sides together and plain machine 0.5cm seam.

Step 2:

Trim out 0.2cm of the seam.

Step 3:

Fold over press the seam towards one side.

Step 4:

Next press the seam together. Then straight machine stitch 0.7 from the folded edge. Press to one side.

Step 5:

Overlock around and press.

TIP: The recommended seam allowance for a FRENCH SEAM is 1.2/25 cm.

FLAT FELL SEAM : A strong seam with two lines of stitching showing on the right side that is produced by folding one raw edge under the other and stitching it flat or slip-stitching it on the wrong side

The flat-felled seam is the type of seam used in making denim jeans, although it appears inside-out to reduce stitching.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

Cut of  a pair of Pattern A (provided in the downloadable section) in your desired fabric.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1:

Mark out a 1 cm line on one front and one back.

Step 2:

Place the pieces of fabric RIGHT sides together.

Step 3:

Press the seam over to one side.

Step 4:

Straight stitch on the folded side.

Step 5:

Press the seam over to one side.

Step 6:

Straight stich on the edge from the WRONG side.

OPEN SEAM

Step 1:

Overlock 2 pieces of fabric on the long edge, right side up.

Step 2:

Place 2 edges of fabric, right sides together and plain machine a 1cm seam.

Step 4:

Press seams open.

BOUND SEAM:

A bias bound seam finish is when the raw edges of your seam allowances are bound in a length of bias binding, preventing any possible fraying and hiding the unsightly raw edges within the binding.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS :

Cut a pair of Pattern B and a pair of Binding pattern.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS :

Step 1:

The seam allowance required for this bound seam is 2.5cm.

Step 2:

Open up pre-folded bias binding and sew on folded line of both pieces from the RIGHT side.

Step 3:

Press and fold the binding back.

Step 4:

Stitch in the ditch on both pieces from the RIGHT side.

Step 5:

With RIGHT sides together sew on the 2.5 cm seam line.

Step 6:

Press seam open and neaten sample.

PATCH POCKET FOLDING

Step 1:

Overlock top of pocket; then fold down the top (2.5 cm) using the template with RIGHT side facing up.

TIP : The template has no seam allowance.

Step 2:

With the WRONG side up place the template and pin. Then fold the seam allowances as shown using the template.

Step 3:

Bag out top and by stitching along the folded line. Trim allowance back.

Step 4:

Press again and check to see the size.

OPTIONAL

You may choose to stitch across top of pocket.

CURVED PATCH POCKET:

A curved patch pocket is a pocket that is placed onto a piece of fabric and sewn into place. They are one of the easiest types of pockets to sew and add to a garment, however one of the hardest to get perfect; especially for a beginner.

A curved patch pocket has many uses from shirts, jeans, tops and even jackets.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS:

A: Cut out the Ready Pocket pattern ( in card) - This is WITHOUT seam allowance.

B: Cut out one Pattern A.

C: Cut of the Pocket Pattern WITH Seam allowance.

CURVED PATCH POCKET FOLDING:

Step 1:

Overlock top of pocket; then fold down and press the top (2.5 cm) with RIGHT side facing up.

TIP : The template has no seam allowance.

Step 2:

Hand stitch all-round the middle of the seam allowance of the pocket keeping the ends longer.

Step 3:

Stitch the pocket top sides.

Step 4:

With the WRONG side up place the template and pin. Then fold the seam allowances as shown using the template and the thread.

Step 5:

Bag out the top sides. Trim allowance back.

Step 6:

Press again and check to see the size.

PATCH POCKET SEWING

Step 1:

Pin the folded pocket on to cut out Pattern A

Step 2:

Edge stitch the pocket, leaving the top open.

CENTER BACK DRESS ZIP WITH FACING

The most most common zipper for dresses and skirts. Done well can make a garment look really polished. However to get to a professional level it takes practice; especially for a beginner.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

Cut a pair of Pattern D and a pair of Facing.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1.

Overlock C.B. seams separately with R.S up. Attach binding on to the facings.

Step 2:

Step 2: Plain machine C.B. seam together in two stages. First increase stitch length to maximum and stitch the top section. Next change the stitch length back and sew the bottom section.

Step 3:

Press open. Unpick the top section.

Step 4:

Pin the welted-side of the zip (left side – womenswear is right over left)

Step 5:

Stay stitch the zip from the WRONG side (non-welted side – left). Pin the Welted side (Right) and repeat the process. (Use a zipper foot if necessary)

Step 6:

Stich a line on both sides of zip opening. (This ensures that the zip lines up at the top) Sew facings to top, stopping 5cms. from C.B.

Step 7:

Sew edge of facing onto non-welt side of zip tape, using 2.Scms of seam allowance on facing, so that when zip is folded back, the fullness disappears and facing is pulled taught. Repeat on the Welted side using approx. 3cm.

Step 8:

Finish sewing top of facing with a 1cm. seam that should sit just above the zip lock. Bag out corner and back stitch top of facing as far as possible.

Step 9:

Stitch around zip from the RIGHT side.

One of the most fundamental topics in women's fashion is darts and shapes. The faster a 1st years learns this the superior the quality of the fit and finish.