E | N | L Acrylic Nail Training: Prep, Apply & Fill Basics

Brush Cleaning 101

Brush cleaning is very important to insure your very expensive brushes last a long time. In this module we will cover some of the basics of brush cleaning do's and don'ts.

When should I clean my brush?

You know that time in middle school art class when you were painting? The teacher would give everyone a cup of water and remind you to clean out your brush.... and then you didn't and now you have a hard crunchy brush? Yeah lets avoid that lol

Very simply put.... your should clean your brush every time you use it. Your brush is your tool and you want to make sure it stays in pristine condition! Not only is this your main tool for creating works of art, they are also very expensive, with some brushes costing well over $75!!

The do's of brush cleaning

When you clean your Kolinsky or Kolinsky / Sable mix brush, you want to make sure that you soak your brush in monomer. This will allow for the lingering acrylic to works itself out of the brush. Once you allow your brush to soak in monomer you will want to gently wipe your brush on an absorbent cloth. We recommend using Viva paper towel (The original cloth) for this as it is very gentle on your brush and is very absorbent. While you are wiping the brush it is important to reshape the brush to what it looked like originally. For example, if you have an oval brush you need to make sure to reshape the brush into an oval shape once you are done.

another important thing to keep in mind. The best cleaning solution for your brush, is monomer. It will keep your brush silky soft. There are also brush cleaners out there, however please be aware that more than likely they have acetone in them.... which can cause your brush to dry out and hairs falling out. so be sure to read your label.

The don'ts

So we have talked about the do's and now it is time to touch on the don'ts. I am going to start with the biggest thing.... Never..... Ever.... ever ever ever ever...... Clean your brush with acetone. The reason for this is because acetone is a very strong chemical, and will actually ruin your brush after a while. Generally, people that come to me and ask why there brush is starting to fray or look like your three year old got too it, is because the acetone has eaten away at the brush.

Now please keep in mind, a nylon brush (typically your art brushes) are okay to soak in acetone. They normally no fray from cleaning it in this way.

Time for a video!

Now that you have read through all of this, we have put together a short video to show the process on an oval brush.

So to recap

• Never ever use 100% acetone on your kolinsky brushes! You should always be using monomer as this will keep your brush soft and will last you a long time to come!

• You should clean your brush after every nail seasion to make sure it stays soft and ready for next time.

• Never use an aggressive towel such as a shop towel or napkins. This will damage your brush and cause you to need to buy a new brush very very quickly.

Conclusion

Proper brush cleaning is important to make sure your expensive nail brushes last a long time. As you start your journey, We always recommend starting with an inexpensive brush, because you will make mistakes and it is best to do this on something that cost $20, than on a $75 brush.

Tip: It is always best to go to your local nail supply store for a nail brush. This will give you the opportunity to look it over and make sure it is a brush that you will want to use. Ordering online can be difficult since you are not able to inspect the brush.

In this section we are going to go over how to use an E-File! Pull out your manikin hand so we can do this together! Below is a video on some of the features of an E-File and some basic safety things to keep in mind!

The cuticle

The cuticle area of the nail is actually pretty important. It helps to protect new nail growth from infection. It is very important to take care of the cuticle area as it can dry out from the elements or from contact to chemicals, such as soaps and degreasers.

Prep

Along the natural nail and along the the cuticle area, lives dead cuticle. This can me cleaned in a few ways and every tech has there own way of doing it. We will cover a couple of these options for you, so that you can make a decision on what works best for you.

Push the cuticles

The very first step in any of these methods is to push the cuticle forward. This way the cuticle is exposed and much easier to trim. A cuticle push is a must for any cuticle removal process. Below is a video of this process.

Exfoliate

Now it is time to exfoliate the cuticle area. When doing this you will want to use a football shaped diamond bit to very gently go under the cuticle area. Below is a video on how to do this properly.

Cuticle Nippers

This is my favorite way to remove dead cuticle. Generally with this method you will take a cuticle nipper and then go along the cuticle area, removing the dead skin. This method can be nerve racking for new techs, since you do not want to harm the client, but if done correctly the client should feel no pain. This is normally a two step process. First you will want to use a cuticle pushed to go around the cuticle area to push up and expose the dead skin. Once this is completed you will take your cuticle nippers to trim away what you pushed up. Below is a video on how I use cuticle nippers to remove the dead skin.

Dimond Bits

Diamond bits are a safe and easy way to remove excess cuticle from the nail. It is important to mention to not stay in one spot too long as you can cause burning or "Rings of fire" on the natural nail which will take time to heal since the nail will need to grow out.

There are multiple bits that you can use to remove excess cuticle. Some techs us a ball bit, others may use a cone. We have found that a Cross Cut bit is very effective in removing excess cuticle as it is a diamond bit and is also a safety bit to prevent hurting the client.

Just like with the first two methods you will want to start by using a cuticle pusher to expose the excess cuticle. Once you have completed this you will then need to gently use your E-File and diamond bit to shave away the excess cuticle.

It is important to note that you should never ever use a carbide or ceramic bit to remove excess cuticle as you can damage the natural nail or even injure the client.