
Grid work is important as it teaches the dog to read the distance between the jumps so they get their stride right.
We do 3 main exercises using 3-4 jumps, spaced at 6-8 strides apart (depending on your dogs size).
You can do the exercises in any order and they are sending your dog to the target, recalling your dog to the target and standing in the middle so your dog passes you to their target,
Gridwork also helps to teach the dog to be independent of you
When introducing a new dog to gridwork, we reward 1 jump, then 2 jumps and so on, usually with poles on the floor. Making sure we do the exercises on both arms and you can also change directions and start from the finishing end.
This is a really basic exercise and a really valuable one. More often than not as our dogs get to learn the contact equipment and weaves, that is where their reward ends up coming from. Unless we are doing grid work or reinforcing our wing wraps, the jumps often don't get rewarded enough.
To start with have treats in both hands, standing in 'No Mans Land' ( a foot each side of the jump) and lure the dog over. NO verbal commands. What we are looking for is voluntary behavior.
Once your dog gets the idea that jumping the jump 'pays' stop luring and wait for the wanted behavior.
It's important to learn about the dog's line. This is the line the dog see's on a course and it helps to show you how important your positioning is, especially when you both are learning.
Wing Wraps are where the dog goes over the pole then around the wing coming back in the direction it came from.
They never back jump or retake the jump they have just taken. In a competition this would cause you to be eliminated.
This one is for the handlers to help them with their handling, positioning and movement of the wing wrap. Its all in the rocking movement ;-)
A few exercises we do to help teach our dogs a tight wing wrap
Part 1 we introduce Lottie to going round the wings. We start by luring and rewarding behind the wing and progress at her speed to going all the way round.
We then start to teach her a 'figure of 8'- left wing wrap and then straight into right wing wrap.
Now Lottie is starting to understand the exercise, we introduce her to 2 jumps
A front cross is where we need to step across our dogs’ path to swap drive arms and direction. You cross facing your dog.
A Blind is where you still cross the dog's path ahead of them but you have your back to them.
You can use this handling skill on all obstacles, but I like to teach it using a tunnel and jumps.
It allows the handler a few nano seconds more time to cross while their dog is in the tunnel than if they are learning it in front of a jump.
A front cross is where we need to step across our dogs’ path to swap drive arms and direction. You can use this handling skill on all obstacles, but I like to teach it using a tunnel and jumps.
A Blind is where we are in front of the dog and step across their path to swap drive arms and direction, keeping your back to your dog
A Box is 4 jumps positioned in a box like formation and you usually use wing wraps to direct your dog.
You can make up loads of sequences, but the dog must jump each of the four only once, in any direction for it to a Box
A ‘snake’ or ‘serp’, ‘serpentine’ as it also gets referred too, consists of 3 jumps, in a line but next to each other, rather than after each other.
We teach the dog to jump away from us, then towards us and then away, while we stay on the one side of all 3 jumps.
So how do we teach them this? We adjust the jumps so there is a straight line down the centre of them.
A ‘snake’ or ‘serp’, ‘serpentine’ as it also gets referred too, consists of 3 jumps, in a line but next to each other, rather than after each other.
A Threadle is a maneuver where the dog takes an obstacle, then comes between two obstacles to take the next obstacle in the same direction.
It can also be used to tell the dog to do a send around
In this tutorial, I've set the jump up in front of the camera to show you the handling skill needed for this maneuver.
Part 1 Teaches the dog and handler to use a threadle for a send around. This is where the dog goes around the wing before taking the jump.
In Part 2 we teach the dog to 'Pull through' using a Threadle
Practicing our Threadle and Pull Throughs
A Pivot or Post Turn as its sometimes called, is where the handler does a 360 degree turn. They tuck them selves into the wing, lowering their arm as they turn.
This technique is used when the dog needs to do a wing wrap but the handler needs to get on to the other 'drive arm'
A short tutorial explaining the difference between 'stop contacts' also known as '2on 2off' and 'Running Contacts
One way of teaching Stop Contacts, also known as '2on 2 off' is by back training the behavior. For this we only need to use the bottom part of the A-Frame.
We will shape the behavior and mark and reward the correct position ( 2 feet on the contact area and 2 feet on the ground) and we will also mark and reward the release.
Eventually the reward will be the release off the contact.
Now that Willow is learning to stop on her contacts with us in front of her, we are now going to send her over the A-frame to a dead toy. (toy on floor) I need to be close enough to the reward to be able to remove it should she not stop on her contacts.
When teaching 'contacts' we start with just the end of the contact, we don't need to use the whole piece of equipment. This is for both running or stop contacts.
We usually roll the toy down or throw it, to cause the dog to drive down and through their contacts. This doesn't always work and we have to adjust our methods to suit the dog.
In this session, if the reward was moving Lottie was jumping / pouncing onto her reward causing her to miss her contacts. So, we changed it to a 'dead toy' like we would for stop contacts. Placing it a Lottie body length away from the end so she would run down, through the contact area and onto her reward.
This is Willows first time on the See Saw.
As you can see she's quite confident on it but not all dogs are.
We will need to do more work on the tilt, as Willow is causing it to bounce as she's not fully understanding that she needs to move to the end once tilted.
The See Saw can be a very scary piece of equipment if not introduced properly and the 'tilt' can frighten them as they think they are going up the Dog Walk
Lottie may be small but she is very confident and the tilt never phased her.
This normally indicates to me, that if a dog is very confident on the See Saw, we need to make sure in future training sessions, that she doesn't go on it at full speed. Not until she's fully able to tilt the See Saw unaccompanied, and has been doing the full size Dog Walk.
Otherwise, she will run up this full speed, not stopping on the tilt and it will give her a scare and then Lottie wont want to go on the Dog Walk either.
There are a few different methods of teaching weaves and Channel/ swivel weaves is one of them.
This method teaches the dog to run down the center of them being fully opened to start with, and then gradually closing them until they are upright closed weaves.
In this tutorial we show Ed learning to do closed weaves and how to help him get it right when he comes out to early
A very basic course to start with when you are starting to link obstacles together.
You could also do a wing wrap at jump #7 and go back, so you finish where you started. This would make a course of 13 obstacles instead of 7
You can also start off with 2 jumps each side of the tunnel instead of 3.
A basic course set up to practice Front crosses and Blinds. You would cross while the dog is on the tunnel before taking jump 5.
You can practice this with less jumps, one just each side of the tunnel but i do suggest you practice your crosses while the dog is on the tunnel
A Steeplechase consists of jumps and tunnels, its usually fast and flowing with change of direction at the tunnel. These are a non progression class with in the Kennel Club
A Beginners Agility Course is run mainly on the left drive arm, with a cross usually at a tunnel. The majority of Grade 1-2 dogs will have left hand weave entries and sometimes additional wing wraps are included.
A beginners Jumping Course usually has a wing wrap or a couple of turns and like the agility, is mainly on one drive arm
Welcome to our Dog Agility for Newcomers - The Next Jump
This is the follow on from our Dog Agility For Newcomers Course. As the dogs have now been introduced to the agility equipment and are jumping a few jumps, we can start to teach you some handling skills and show you how to teach the dog the technique.
This will help you to put the obstacles together allowing you to run small courses and once you have taught your contacts and weaves you’ll be able to run a full agility course.
In competition a course consists of 14-20 obstacles
We will also show you how to teach stop or running contacts by back training the behaviour. You will also be shown how to teach channel/swivel weaves, to help your dog be weave independent.
The course explains each skill, shows you how to teach it and then we have included videos of teaching the skill to my clients which shows some trouble shooting we had with running contacts.
Also included at the end of the course is a short video of some exercises you can practice with just 2 jumps or 1 jump and a cone.
All training is taught in a positive reward-based way.