
The great thing about moccasins-making is that you will require very few and very simple tools.
Choose the right pattern according to the width of the feet and assemble it. Please find the downloadable patterns in the resources below and the PDF tutorial.
Place your template on the leather and trace around it with a permanent marker before cutting it out in leather. Make sure you are placing the template in the right direction according to the elasticity of the leather (length of the foot in the direction of the spine.)
Place your template on the leather and trace around it with a permanent marker before cutting it out in leather. Make sure you are placing the template in the right direction according to the elasticity of the leather (length of the foot in the direction of the spine.)
Place your both pieces of leather on top of each other and after correcting any imperfection of the cut, place the pattern on top of it. Copy the stitching marks from the pattern onto the leather by tracing them carefully and precisely on the edge. Make sure all marks are well visible before going on to the next step.
Use your awl to make holes according to the stitching marks. Make sure that you are poking holes perpendicularly to the leather. Holes should be very close to the edge, about 2 mm.
Stitch the front part of the shoe with the "invisible stitch" method. Measure the size of your stitch loosely and triple it. This should always be enough thread.
This is how to custom-fit the heel. Place the feet with toes touching the end and put comfortably, without any pressure on the toes. Gather the two sides behind your heel. Pull towards the back to make sure the sides are well in place and flat along the ankle. Check also the size is well-adjusted around the instep/bridge. If necessary, remove a few stitches to make it wider. Trace two small marks behind the heel where the sides gather at the center of the Achilles tendon, adding 2 or 3 mm of stitching margin. It doesn't matter if one side is higher than the other, as long as it reaches high enough on the heel to hold well. You will cut the excess after. Trace a line behind the heel, perpendicularly to the ground.
In this video, I show how to draw and cut the heel to the right size and shape.
Here is how to finish the front stitch and the heel.
You've made it!
Use off-cuts to make leather laces
Here I show how you can quickly stretch the leather to gain a few millimeters up to 1 cm if your moccasins are really too tight. If this is not enough, and it still hurts to wear them, you can try this method on wet leather and also wear your moccasins while they are wet. If this is still not enough, add a strip at the back following the other "HELP" video: "Shoe too Small"
Here are a few tips about holding your work while stitching and what you need to stay careful about.
Here is an easy method to make holes with a cork if you find it too difficult to make them by hand or if you are getting tired. It also helps to know this technique when you need to make holes in corners and small pieces of leather that are difficult to hold in the hands.
Here I show you how you can add a strip on leather on the heel to enlarge any moccasins. It is very useful for baby and kids shoes but for adults in case of mistake with the fitting.
Here is how to readjust a fitting when it is too big. Sometimes it's just a matter of a few millimeters to get a perfect fit...
Over the course of 2 hours of video, Lougaya clearly and precisely explains how to make your own moccasins with very few simple hand tools.
The great difference with most other moccasins and patterns that you can find on the market is that ours are made to be adjusted exactly to the morphology of each person. Patterns will suit people from size 34 to 48 EU / 3 to 14 US.
Just like a second skin...
Our moccasins are like barefoot or minimalist leather shoes, 100% in leather. In fact, they truly are like a second skin that can be worn on all occasions and on all grounds. If you are looking for natural footwear with high sensory feedback, you're at the right place.
We are convinced that even people without prior experience in leather work, sewing, and shoe making can complete this project quite easily.
We are convinced that even people without prior experience in leather work or sewing can complete this project quite easily.
When purchasing our tutorials, you will gain instant access to the videos that you will be able to watch and replay as many times as you like.
Along with the videos, you will receive the PDF tutorial as well as the printable patterns.
The video tutorial helps to understand the right gesture, whereas the PDF tutorial highlights important details in large images and written explanations and helps you to keep track of each step in order. Even after your first pair, it is a useful document to remember how to make them without having to watch all the videos again.
With practice, a pair can be made in only 2 to 3 hours, but it would usually take about 1 day on the first trial.
Patterns should be printed in A4 or US letters. If you are not able to print the patterns at home, please send us a request.
The tutorials also cover the topics of choosing leather and tools, making soles, leather conditioner, and even some ideas to make use of leather off-cuts and other projects to apply the techniques that you will have learned.
To make good-looking and comfortable moccasins, you need to find very soft leather that will easily pucker around the toes. Ideally, it should be thick as well (1.8 to 3 mm thick / 4 to 6 oz leather). We know that such leather is not that easy to find, especially when you can't go to a leather shop in person and/or that you are a novice.
Feel free to reach out to us if you need help finding the best quality leather suitable to work with our patterns at contact@earthingmoccasins.com