Diploma in Luxury Facial, Facial Machines, Chemical Peeling

Beauty is more than skin deep. With a compressive understanding of skin layers and function, you are able to treat the client skin condition and recommend transderma products to help the client. If you cannot extract acne, you need to use a facial machine to kill p.acne bacteria and acidic peels to heal the skin.

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The chart show different skin types and skin conditions.

It provides clear instructions for all steps in the processing of reusable high, intermediate and low risk instruments.

Learn disposals and tools needed for a facial.

This lecture simplifies products used in facials, cleaners, peeling agents, masks, serums, ampoules. There are so many brands in the industry but most of them are under these categories. The point is to be an expert to identify skin types and skin conditions and selecting the correct and suitable products for treatment is the key to success.

The term “pH” refers to “potential of hydrogen”. It concerns the activity of hydrogen ions (ions are molecules that carry a positive or negative charge) in a water-based solution. Hydrogen makes up two thirds of water, water being two hydrogen molecules plus an oxygen molecule, H²o.

Like coffee, your skin is on the acidic side. In fact, it's covered in what's called an "acid mantle. [updated pdf 20 May 20]

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Oil is the most commonly used and has a great glide to it when massaging, and it’s easy to add essential oils. It feels warm on your hands and a client’s skin. Some Clients do not prefer oil especially those with oily and sensitive skin.

Cream thicker and is less slippage – perfect when you need to spend a lot of time in one area. It absorbs into the skin, similar to lotion, and doesn’t leave behind an oily feeling or residue on the client’s skin. Too much is cream may result in breakout. Less is more. It’s also much more difficult to add essential oils.

Gel are great for many massage techniques. Does not require a lot of re-application. They also provide the best glide effect during the massage, and a long, flowing massage technique will benefit from a gel. Gels are perfect for hairy clients or clients with very dry skin. Oily skin clients prefer Gel such as aloe vera. Too much gel may result in a sticky feel and voluminous skin.

Always chose the above to suit the clients skin type. Less is more as adding too much may prevent the face from absorbing more effective serums after this step like the masque etc. A Tip is to add some water to make a thinner liquid. Creativity is yours to explore.

Please explore the pdf of Comprehensive massage steps than you can customise from basic fast facial to extended lifting and pressure points.

Do remember to start and end with effleurage.

This demo is on facial dummy. You could buy a facial dummy online to practice your steps, but if you have a live model, it would be better.

Many people use long staying makeup. Cleansing creams are not effective. Always standby a waterproof make up cleanser. Micellar water is suitable. Washing with a Ph5 gently cleanser after will be sufficient as you would be doing botanical peels, enzyme peels or chemical peels which will provide effective deeper cleansing.

The easiest way to do extraction is to have a method to soften skin. Hot towels, facial steamer or enzymatic peels. You should not use force and it may cause black head plugs to come out which may cause the cell to be damaged. Only extract what is easy. Only on soften skin. Know the difference between extractable acne and not in the additional resources. From a beauty therapist tool. High Frequency is a very useful for acne clients.

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Microdermabrasion is very useful tool that everyone loves. Noninvasive using a vacuum pressure wand that gently exfoliates the surface, removing the top layer. The aim is to make the skin appear younger. Combine with a chemical peel if it is suitable to get smooth skin surface that other beautitican ask about. It;s a secret.

This should be avoided for clients with inflammation acne. Treat the acne first before using this tool. Usually takes about 6 sessions after the treatment and skin renewal of acne clients.

Enzymes are naturally derived active ingredients found in many fruits. Pomegranate, Pumpkin, Papaya, Pineapple and Figs. They help dissolve dead skin to reveal smoother, softer and healthier skin.

Glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid and one of the most effective exfoliating chemicals, to weaken the bonds between cells on the top layer of your skin—effectively removing that top layer. Helps your skin can look brighter and tighter, collagen production and even out skin tone. For Melasma, hyper-pigmentation and acne is a good product to use.

Enzymes and chemical peels should be avoided by users of Retinol products or clients with very sensitive or irritated skin. Please read the Client Consultation Form.

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Ultrasound therapy is a relatively new cosmetic treatment for skin tightening that some consider a noninvasive and painless replacement for face lifts. It uses ultrasound energy to encourage the production of collagen, which results in firmer skin. It uses focused ultrasound energy to target the layers of skin just below the surface. The ultrasound energy causes the tissue to heat up rapidly.

• wrinkle reduction.

• tightening sagging skin on the neck (sometimes called turkey neck)

• lifting the cheeks, eyebrows, and eyelids.

• enhancing jawline definition.

• tightening of the décolletage.

• smoothing the skin.

• modelling face

• infusion of ampoule into smaller molecules for deeper penetration

Benefits : relief tensions, relax facial muscles, helps in blood circulation, natural facelift, absorb products, look younger.

“‘Gua’ means scrape, and ‘Sha’ means sand. Upward scrapping with lymphatic drainage strokes. It relieve tension in the muscles of the face, boost blood circulation, and encourage lymphatic drainage to banish bloat. It helps break up fascia, the connective tissue that hugs muscles but can sometimes interfere with optimal circulation.” It is a very good massage to loosen face knots that normal finger massage cannot access. It is able to go around scars and acne scars and bring circulation to the clusters to improve skin. Make sure to check the smooth edges of your tools before every use. Explore on your own many other gua sha tools. Chose the one that feels comfortable for you.

Photosensitivity, a type of reaction the skin experiences when the treated area is exposed to sunlight. Retinol is to be applied topically at night due

Retinol proven to promote cell turnover and prevents the breakdown of collagen results in beautiful skin. Vitamin A is the only scientifically known to keep skin healthy and combats the effects of aging. A Vitamin A deficiency could lead to skin abnormalities such as pigmentation irregularities, sun damage, aging, and skin cancer.

Always Make Sure To Check.

If A Client is Using or Just started Using Retinol and they have problems managing it. Avoid using facial machines that heat up skin to produce collagen if a client is using retinol.  [ Possibility The skin can burn] . Let the client skin stabalise before you start with facial machines.

You may use a calming hydrating mask or cold mask, ice globes to cool the skin (No heat). Moisturize Hydrate SunScreen. Lay off Acidic products for 3 weeks. Simple is Best. Calm the FACE HYDRATE MOISTURISE PROTECT.

...How long does it take skin to adjust to retinol? about three weeks Know When to Back Off."Clinically, we've seen that it takes about three weeks for skin cells to adapt to retinoic acid and begin building their tolerance," says Engelman, which is why some degree of irritation is totally normal early on.

Wet cotton wool with clean water and squeeze dry. Add some micellar water to remove waterproof makeup.

Soften skin - Use a steamer or use a warm towel

Wash face with a gentle cleanser suitable for the client skin type

Start extraction. Only extract ripe blackheads, acne. DO NOT FORCE.

For inflammatory acne - This course uses Chemical peeling and High Frequency along with deep hydration as a strategy. Always come up with a strategy.

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This is professional Peeling Gel, but using any suitable gel will do. This gel has no beads. As some clients have sensative skin, I found this gel suitable for all skin types and safe to exfoliate without drying the skin. This gel contains calming ingredients such as witch hazel and aloe vera. It is also a brightening gel at the same time.

If the client cannot do chemical peel or microdermabrasion, you can use this gel instead. Massage Gel using circular movements until you see dead sebum appearing. Rinse face in warm water. Change the water after this step.

A Diamond Peel is a mechanical exfoliation that removes excess oil, dirt, and dead cells on the surface of the skin to reveal younger, brighter skin. This non-invasive treatment can improve the appearance of fine wrinkles and lines, even out patchy complexion, and reduce mild to moderate acne breakouts.

For best results, schedule an appointment every 2 to 3 weeks for a total of 6 to 8 sessions, depending on your skin condition.

It is important to know skin renewal takes about 3 weeks. Therefore do not allow your client to request this on weekly basis as even if they love the smoothness after diamond peel.

Adjust the vacuum pressure. Always ask client if they are feeling comfortable. STOP when you see REDNESS. Calm Skin with Rose toner or Cool gel pack or Rose Calamine mix. Apply calming technique for about 2 to 5mins.

AVOID EYE AREA ! Watch Clients face carefully. Watch for redness and wash off immediately if needed until no tingling.

Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid, or AHA, used for chemical exfoliation of the skin. AHAs dissolve the bonds that hold dull, dead skin cells together, so they gently shed, revealing brighter, smoother skin underneath.Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane, and is an expert favorite for treating signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, post-sun exposure, acne, and acne scars.

Side effects can include slight tingling or burning, but they should subside quickly. Professional peel side effects can include redness, dryness, itching or irritation as well as swelling, tightness, peeling or scabbing. With 2-3 days, skin may look flaky or tan as the outermost surface peels off to make room for more radiant, new skin. You may also notice temporarily more pronounced discoloration or age spots as they rise to the skin’s surface before getting sloughed away.

Wash your face with cool water. Warm or hot water might not feel as good as cool or cold water, which can help soothe post-peel sensations.

Moisturize and hydrate. Since peels can temporarily compromise your skin’s protective barrier, it’s important to reinforce that barrier with a medium-to-thick moisturizer. Also, drink more water to help avoid dehydration, which could make your skin feel tight.

Apply sunscreen with SPF30 or more. Your skin is more delicate after a peel, so avoid direct sun exposure, which can lead to even more visible signs of skin aging. If you must be exposed, use a Broad Spectrum physical sunscreen.

Avoid strenuous workouts, dry saunas and steam rooms. Increased blood circulation to the face can intensify warming, tingling, itching, redness or other uncomfortable side effects on freshly peeled skin. Skip such activities on the day you use a peel.

Don’t over-exfoliate. Peels are maximum-strength exfoliants, so you don’t need to use a separate exfoliant (like a scrub, brush or exfoliating cleanser) within 3-4 days of your peel. Over-exfoliating can lead to more redness or sensitivity, so wait until your skin feels up to it.

Once your skin feels “back to normal” after a peel, it’s generally considered OK to resume your normal skin care regimen. Insist to wear sunblock UVA UVB Broad spectrum. Remember your calming technique, use it here too if needed.

Before you start make sure your serums are ready and applied generously. The important point is to glide on the face smoothly. Adding serum bit by bit on to the face part by part. Reapply serum when you feel the glide is not smooth. Watch the clients face if they feel painful.

Starting with Eye Tool adding eye serum around the eyes gently. Followed by face tool. Make sure the tool is warm and not hot. Always check with client if they are feeling comfortable. Eye Tool can be used for the nose and lips.

Adding whitening ampoule or any serums that client needs, massage into face with lifting upward movements to model the face and lift the face. Make sure the tool is vibrating and smooth to glide on the face.

The face should feel warm and you can show the client the face is lifted. Do half of the face to show the client the difference.

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This video shows a basic face massage and you can follow these steps and improve from here. Do this 3 times.

There are many types of facial massage that you can customise to suit your own clients or try different types that relaxes the client. You can use facial oil, creams or gel.

Always continue to read more about massage techniques. There are common and highly effective lymphatic drainage massage.

For Acne or Sensitive skin types you may use pressure points or shiatsu, or you can use ice ball therapeutic massages.

Be creative.

Benefits of Facial Massage:

• Improves the appearance of the skin

• Purifies

• Stimulates

• Relaxes

• Refreshes skin

• Gives physiological and psychological benefits

• Reduces the appearance of wrinkles

• Hydrates the skin resulting in a fabulous glow

• Increases lymphatic flow

• Eases muscle tension

• Helps to improve overall well-being

  
  

  Petrissage is a compression technique, which includes kneading, squeezing and pinching. This affects the deeper muscle tissue of the face.

  Tapotement is a percussive stroke in which the fingertips strike the skin in rapid succession. This technique improves circulation by stimulating the diffusion of the capillary network. It helps nourish the skin. This technique also purifies the skin.

  Friction is an invigorating technique, stimulating circulation and glandular activity. It can be performed in a circular manner or a criss-cross manner with the fingers working in opposition to each other.

  Vibration is a highly stimulating movement and should be used very sparingly. This is a shaking movement and is performed over areas of broad muscle mass. In the facial massage this is the lower part of the face.

Light therapy, or LED treatments have been around for over 30 years and to help with tissue healing and repair. Treating acne, regulating natural oil production, stimulating collagen and elastin and minimising redness and wrinkles. Certain wavelengths have even been shown to reduce dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Red: The majority of at-home LED masks offer a red light setting. At the lighter end of the spectrum, red light works to soothe inflammation and redness, while deeper shades penetrate the skin further to prompt cellular repair and circulation, resulting in a plumper, more vibrant complexion.

Blue: This antibacterial light is used to kill the bacteria that leads to breakouts, making it ideal for treating acne-prone skin. Blue light also helps purify the skin and regulate oil glands.

Amber: Less common in at-home devices, this shade works to revitalise the skin, reducing any swelling and increasing radiance.

Infrared: Invisible to the naked eye, this light penetrates deeper than any other colour in the spectrum. It combats the signs of ageing by replenishing dermal and epidermal cells, stimulates the natural production of collagen and elastin, and speeds up the recovery process.

Apply mask and add on LED for 10-20 mins.  For powder mask, mix 30gms with rose toner or water to a non drip consistency. You can use a gauze over the mask if needed to peel off easily. Or apply mask directly on the face and wash off by using a ball of gauze dipped in water to wipe away mask.

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The safe, gentle oscillating and oxygenating power of high frequency electrical current has been shown to enhance blood circulation, increase collagen and elastin production, eliminate toxins and acne-causing bacteria, encourage lymphatic drainage, exfoliate dead skin cells and improve skin care product absorption.

High-frequency treatments kill bacteria and reduce inflammation, hence the acne-fighting benefits.

The primary action of high-frequency current is thermal (heat producing) and oxygen creating which assists in killing stubborn acne bacteria under the skin. Due to the rapid rate of oscillation, it also works to tone the skin and tighten pores, therefore, making it a perfect Treatment Enhancement to any facial.

Always closing a facial is an important step. However do note on the contraindication for the use of facial machines and tools.

For sanitisation - briefly go over face.

For acne - use spot and tongue tool to tap about 5 to 10 times.

Always watch the skin cells, stop once you see drying of cells.

Do not put in one spot. Always tap lightly.

Important note : Dry area, Dry feet. Dry hands. Dry Hair.  If you touch the client while using HF on the skin, the client may experience a shock.  Therefore starting on smaller level and always check with your client for any discomfort.

This tool can be used on hair to help folicle infection too with use of the above facial techniques like glycolic hyaluronic acid.

Final Step : Apply some moisturiser with sun block. Provide clients with an after care advise.

Always look forward to solving different skin type conditions and clients will come back thanking you. Always provide the best luxury services.

Clients are always very interested to have a small conversation after facial while having their herbal tea, water or small serving of fruits. They will be relaxed and happy when you have done a good job for them. Always take this time to give them "After Care"  solutions including correcting the products they are currently using if needed.

Example: A client comes in for a recurring acne problem that they cannot resolve for 20 years. (Yes, I do have clients like that). Skin consultation and also during the cleansing stage continue to access the skin and their skin products. It is from here and over the next few sessions you will be adding and minus skin products to come to the right combination for this client. It does not mean 1 size fits all. When you recommend even the change of 1 cleanser with PH5 or 1 sunblock with UVA UVB you can see the client's face start to improve.

Do not be discourage if clients says they have acne breakout after your facial. With a good job done through skin care and a complete and great care facial, the detox stage will be over fast and you be on your next stage of treatment plan to help your client reach their wish list. I have personally told my clients not to give up.

Use this valuable time to let them know when to return for a followup session.