Boating Safety and Operation

It is critical that you, as a boat operator, recognize behaviors or events that contribute to most boating-related incidents and fatalities so that you can avoid them. Many actions can be taken to avoid or reduce boating-related incidents: wearing a personal flotation device; knowing how to recover a person who has fallen overboard; knowing what to do if your watercraft is involved in a collision or is about to capsize; being aware of the impact and effect on the operator if his or her faculties have been reduced by alcohol or drugs; the impact of operator fatigue and heatstroke.

This section and the information throughout the course are meant to inform you as a boater about the specific on-water danger that all too often goes unacknowledged. This is to be better prepared and be able to deal with on-water dangers and/or emergencies.

As boat operators, you must be aware of situations that could jeopardize the safety of people aboard while on the water as situations keep changing and you must adapt to these altering situations. In particular, the operator should recognize that small open boats such as rowboats, kayaks, canoes, etc. could be subject to capsizing or taking on water while operating close to them.

To assist you in the event of such accidents, wearing your PFD or your life jacket will possibly prevent you from drowning. Statistics show that the vast majority of boating victims were not wearing their PFD or their life jacket when they drowned. Don’t just have it in the boat, choose one that fits you and wear it.

One must be able to recognize when an operator has driven his or her pleasure craft too long and must rest (dizziness, nausea, headaches).

Sunburn is a skin irritation caused by exposure to sunlight. Prolonged exposure to the sun without proper protection can cause severe burns. There are different levels of severity of sunburn depending on skin type, duration and intensity of sun exposure.

Symptoms of sunburn are:

• redness of the skin;

• itchiness;

• appearance of plaques on the skin;

• skin peeling;

• dehydration;

• headache;

• fever;

• fatigue;

• vertigo.

  
  

Repeated exposure to sunlight and repeated sunburn can cause skin cancer (melanoma).

There are several ways to prevent sunburn. Here are a few:

• avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight;

• use of protective sunscreen;

• cover yourself with light clothing;

• wear a hat and sunglasses.

There is no miracle cure against sunburn. We can try to decrease the inflammation by applying moisturizers containing hydrocortisone or aloe to the burned skin. We can also take anti-inflammatory such as aspirin or ibuprofen. The best treatment against sunburn is still prevention.

Now, we are going to study all aspects of safety regarding a pleasure craft, starting with the required safety equipment on board. Let’s begin by identifying each piece of safety equipment required. This is determined by the type and the length of the craft in accordance with the Rules and Regulations.

It is important to maintain the safety equipment that is on board. This means it must always be kept in perfect working order. It should be carefully checked prior to departure. Also, safety equipment should always be placed in the craft where it can be made quickly available for all passengers.

A very high percentage of people that drown following an accident are not wearing personal life-saving devices. Even if you have one on board, conditions like rough winds, waves, and cold water can make it very difficult, if not impossible, to find it and put it on. Worse yet, if you unexpectedly fall into the water, the boat, with your life jacket on board, could be too far away to reach. Therefore, everyone that comes on board must know where the personal lifesaving devices are located and know how to use them.

Some of the personal lifesaving devices are personal flotation devices (PFD). The law requires that all crafts be equipped with a PFD of the appropriate size for everyone on board and those being towed and must be U.S. Coast Guard approved either type I, II, III, or V. On crafts 16 feet or longer, an approved PFD type IV must be on board. Some states specify age requirements regarding the wearing of a PFD at all times. Check your state’s requirements for the specifics regarding age. PFDs must be worn according to the manufacturers’ recommendations.

TYPE I

These PFDs provide the most buoyancy and are designed to turn the person face up upon submersion. They are excellent for flotation and are designed for rough waters.

TYPE II

These PFDs provide good buoyancy in less than rough waters. They are designed to turn the person face up but not as apparent as TYPE I.

TYPE III

These PFDs are either vest type or inflatable and provide good buoyancy in calm waters. They are designed to be comfortable with the intent to practice a water sport (e.g., skiing, tubing). They will not turn the wearer face up upon submersion. Some inflatable PFD are designed to inflate automatically upon entering the water.

TYPE IV

These ring buoys are designed to be thrown to the person overboard and are not designed to be worn. It is not for rough waters or for persons having difficulty grasping them.

TYPE V

These PFDs are designed for specific activities such as kayaking, windsurfing, waterskiing, and/or for paddle boats and must be used according to the manufacturers’ recommendation labels that are affixed to the garment.

Now you know there are PFDs for various activities such as kayaking, canoeing, fishing, sailing, etc. When selecting a PFD, choose the appropriate model for the appropriate sport by keeping in mind the following:

1. They should be snug-fitting yet allow freedom of movement for the arms and legs.

2. They should be a proper size for the person (adult sizing for adults, child sizing for child).

3. They should be suitable for the water activity.

4. They should be S. Coast Guard approved

The lifejacket should be snug fitting and provide sufficient flotation to turn an unconscious person face-up in the water.

A child must wear a PFD that corresponds to his or her weight. A child can easily slip out of a PFD that is too large. If it is too small, the person will have difficulty getting out of the water or keeping afloat.

Boaters and guests should familiarize themselves with the different flotation devices and how they operate as well as test them (under supervision) for proper fit and operation so that if needed, they will be able to stay afloat. It is the responsibility of the operator to inform his/her guests of the above before departing.

One may also refer their guests to check the manufacturer labels of a device. By reviewing the label, you will know the intended use, the size of the intended wearer, the turning ability, any care instructions, and how to properly wear the PFD. Every U.S. Coast Guard approved PFD will have a label. If there isn’t one, the PFD is not approved and cannot be used. With this U.S. Coast Guard approval, you can be assured that the life jacket has been thoroughly tested for performance.

In 2014, the Coast Guard removed references to the different “type” categorization on the labeling of approved PFDs. This change in labels was to create an approval system that works in Canada as well. The old system of “types” to categorize PFDs has been replaced by “Performance Levels.” 50, 70, 100, and 150.

• Level 50 Buoyancy Aid: Not recommended for weak or non-swimmers. Will not self-turn.

• Level 70 Buoyancy Aid: Equivalent to the old system’s Type III PFDs. They are the most common PFDs worn by recreational boaters. Will not self-turning.

• Level 100 Life Jacket: A High flotation PFD. Some self-turning ability.

• Level 150: A High flotation PFD. Offshore waters, self-tuning ability.

Next, the new system has icons for the PFD’s ability to turn an unconscious or incapacitated person face-up in the water.

The next set of icons shows what activities the PFD is not approved for. These icons replace the old “intended use” descriptions.

This is a picture showing a label you would find on the life jackets being phased in with the “performance level” system.

Remember, in emergencies or when a situation starts deteriorating, all passengers should wear their PFD. That is why they must be aware of where they are, how to use them, and their role as described above.

Treat your flotation device as an investment and take good care of it. Devices that are ripped or in poor condition are not considered approved.

Lifesaving equipment should never be kneeled on, sat on, or used as a fender for your boat. Any use outside of its intended purpose is illegal and can result in serious penalties or worse, loss of life.

Follow these tips:

• Check its buoyancy regularly by wading out to waist-deep water and bending your knees to see how well you float.

• Ensure that straps, buckles, and zippers are clean and in good working order.

• Tug on straps to ensure they are well attached with no sign of wear.

• Dry your device in the open air and avoid direct heat sources.

• Store it in a dry, well-ventilated, easily accessible place.

• Do not dry clean. Use mild soap and running water to clean.

When an inflatable life jacket fails to inflate properly, the results can be life-threatening. The manufacturers of inflatable PFDs have different maintenance instructions for their products and directions for the user to service and inspect the devices. These instructions have important information regarding parts like the bladder, inflation mechanism, and CO2 cylinder. Routine maintenance in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions is highly recommended by the Coast Guard.

Here we provided you with guidelines to ensure your inflatable PFD is ready for use however, one must always refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations or instructions.

• Check for visible signing of wear or damage. Look for tears, inspect the seams and fabric, ensure the straps are intact.

• Check CO2 cartridges regularly and replace them as soon as they are empty.

• Periodically inflate the bladder orally and leave it overnight. If the bladder has lost air, bring your PDF in for maintenance.

• Verify the inflator status indicators are not broken or otherwise non-functional.

• Rinse your PFD with fresh water and use mild soap for cleaning.

Safety equipment varies by the length of the craft. A larger boat needs more safety equipment as it can travel farther and hold more passengers. The following safety requirements are the minimum for each application and are based on the length of the craft.

Boating safety requirements for boats under 16 feet:

1-PFDs: one type of USCG approved life jacket for each person on board.

2-Visual Distress Signal: one electric distress light or three combination red flares when operating between sunset and sunrise.

3-Fire extinguisher: one marine-type USCG B-I if equipped with an inboard engine or enclosed compartments where fuel is stored or built-in fuel tanks.

4-Ventilation: Natural ventilation is required for boats built after April 25, 1940 and if it uses gasoline in an enclosed engine. If it was built after July 31, 1980, it must have an exhaust blower.

5-Sound producing device: whistle or air horn not produced from a human powered device.

6-Navigation lights: required to be displayed between sunset and sunrise.

7-Back-fire flame arrestor: except outboards, all boats manufactured after April 25, 1940.

Boating safety requirements for boats 16 feet to under 26 feet:

1-PFDs: one type of USCG approved life jacket for each person on board also a type V, throwable type of PFD.

2-Visual Distress Signal: one orange distress flag and one electric distress light or three hand-held or floating orange smoke signals and one electric distress light or three combination red flares hand-held, meteor or parachute type.

3-Fire extinguisher: one marine-type USCG B-I if equipped with an inboard engine or enclosed compartments where fuel is stored or built-in fuel tanks or closed living spaces.

4-Ventilation: Natural ventilation is required for boats built after April 25, 1940 and if it uses gasoline in an enclosed engine. If it was built after July 31, 1980, it must have an exhaust blower.

5-Sound producing device: whistle or air horn not produced from a human powered device.

6-Navigation lights: required to be displayed between sunset and sunrise.

7-Back-fire flame arrestor: except outboards, all boats manufactured after April 25, 1940.

Boating safety requirements for boats 26 feet and less than 40 feet:

1-PFDs: one type of USCG approved life jacket for each person on board also a type V, throwable type of PFD.

2-Visual Distress Signal: one orange distress flag and one electric distress light or three hand-held or floating orange smoke signals and one electric distress light or three combination red flares hand-held, meteor or parachute type.

3-Fire extinguisher: a fixed system or one marine-type USCG B-II or two marine-type USCG B-I if equipped with an inboard engine or enclosed compartments where fuel is stored or built-in fuel tanks or closed living spaces.

4-Ventilation: Natural ventilation is required for boats built after April 25, 1940 and if it uses gasoline in an enclosed engine. If it was built after July 31, 1980, it must have an exhaust blower.

5-Sound producing device: whistle or air horn not produced from a human powered device. Boats greater than 39.4 feet must have a sound signaling appliance capable of producing a sound signal for up to 0.5 miles for a duration period of 4 to 6 seconds. These boats must also carry a bell with a clapper and have a diameter larger than 7.9 inches.

6-Navigation lights: required to be displayed between sunset and sunrise.

7-Back-fire flame arrestor: except outboards, all boats manufactured after April 25, 1940.

Boating safety requirements for boats 40 feet and less than 65 feet:

1-PFDs: one type of USCG approved life jacket for each person on board also a type V, throwable type of PFD.

2-Visual Distress Signal: one orange distress flag and one electric distress light or three hand-held or floating orange smoke signals and one electric distress light or three combination red flares hand-held, meteor or parachute type.

3-Fire extinguisher: a fixed system or one marine-type USCG B-II and one USCG B-I or three marine-type USCG B-I if equipped with an inboard engine or enclosed compartments where fuel is stored or built-in fuel tanks or closed living spaces.

4-Ventilation: Natural ventilation is required for boats built after April 25, 1940 and if it uses gasoline in an enclosed engine. If it was built after July 31, 1980, it must have an exhaust blower.

5-Sound producing device: whistle or air horn not produced from a human powered device. Boats greater than 39.4 feet must have a sound signaling appliance capable of producing a sound signal for up to 0.5 miles for a duration period of 4 to 6 seconds. These boats must also carry a bell with a clapper and have a diameter larger than 7.9 inches.

6-Navigation lights: required to be displayed between sunset and sunrise.

7-Back-fire flame arrestor: except outboards, all boats manufactured after April 25, 1940.

It is important to note, all recreational boats operating in U.S. Coastal Waters or the Great Lakes, or adjoining rivers directly connected to U.S. Coastal Waters or the Great Lakes up to the first point where those rivers are less than 2 miles wide, are required to be equipped with visual distress signals.

Watertight Flashlights

A watertight flashlight (that floats and can work in the water) is a piece of visual signal equipment required on board. You must check that the batteries are in good working order before every trip. A watertight flashlight qualifies as navigation lights on non-powered vessels. In an emergency, it can be used to signal for help.

Distress Flares

A visual distress signal is any device designed to show that your boat is in distress; this signal would help others locate you. A wide variety of signalling devices, both pyrotechnic and non-pyrotechnic, can be carried to meet the requirements of the regulation. Visual distress signals may only be used in emergency situations.

Distress flares are used to send a distress signal. The length of your boat will determine if you must carry flares and of which type to have on board. You might be exempted from carrying flares, based on the size of your boat and where you are navigating. For instance, flares are not required for a boat that is operating on a river, canal or lake in which it can never be more than one nautical mile (1.15 miles) from shore. No person in a boat shall display a visual distress signal on water, under any circumstances, except a situation where assistance is needed and there is immediate or potential danger to the people on board. In other words, you cannot send a false message. Although flares are potentially dangerous if misused, if you have them on board, they should be easily accessible. They should be stored in a watertight container and in a cool, dry location. They must be approved by USCG. You must always read and follow the manufacturers’ instructions before use.

They are usually a one-time use; you should know how to use them before you actually have an emergency situation. Use flares only in emergency. Aerial flares should be fired at an angle and downwind. In strong winds, lower the angle to 45° at most.

Flares are only good for four years from the date of manufacture. For disposal of expired flares, contact the local fire department, the police department, or even your retailer for places they can be safely disposed of. Remember that hand-held marine flares are to be used in emergency only and are to attract attention day or night and serve as a beacon for rescuer to identify your position.

Flares come in 4 categories:

1- Rocket parachute flares: creates a single red star, reaches a height of 984’ (300m), and is seen from the ground or air and burns at least 40 seconds.

2- Multi star flares: creates two or more stars, reaches a height of 328’1” (100m), and is seen from the ground or air and burns for four or five seconds.

3- Hand-held flares: red flame torch held in your hand and is best used to help air searchers locate you as they provide poor visibility from the ground.

4- Buoyant or hand smoke signal flares: creates orange smoke for three minutes and can only be used in daylight.

Boats less than 39.4 feet long must be equipped with a sound signalling device such as a whistle without a ball, a compressed gas horn or an electric horn. Boaters should be able to recognize sound signals from other boats. A short blast will last one (1) second, a long blast is four (4) to six (6) seconds. Sound signalling devices are used as a method to communicate manoeuvring, to alert others of your presence in restricted visibility and finally, to draw attention in case of emergencies. Here are various codes or combinations used to indicate manoeuvres:

1 short: Altering course to starboard

2 short: Altering course to port

3 short: Operating astern propulsion

5 short: Danger

1 long: A large boat is leaving the dock

With regards to boats of 39.4 feet long or more, they must be equipped with a permanently fitted whistle (see above) as well as with a bell.

In reduced visibility, all boats must use sound signals to inform other vessels of their presence. Therefore, operators are required to know that there are various sound signals (as well as knowing how to use them) that indicates movement in a particular direction or that attract attention to themselves especially in restricted visibility such as fog. Such sound signals could be continuous fog horns, bell, whistle, or at the extreme, a gun shot at one-minute intervals.

A pleasure craft must carry a fire extinguisher on board if it has an engine and any of the following characteristics:

• Fuel tanks stored in compartments

• Closed living areas

• Inboard engine

• Permanent fuel tanks

• Double bottoms not sealed to the hull or not filled with flotation material.

It is important to have the fire extinguishers mounted in an easily accessible location for the operator or passengers.

The larger the boat, the more fire extinguishers will be required in different locations of the craft. You must familiarize yourself with your fire extinguisher by reading the manufacturers’ instructions. As for all safety equipment on board, they should be in good working conditions with sufficient pressure. Portable fire extinguishers are classed according to the type of fire that they can put out:

CLASS A: Effective against solid combustibles (wood, textile, paper, etc.)

CLASS B: Effective against liquid combustibles (gasoline, grease, oil, paint, and inflammables) and is the class required on most crafts since gasoline fires are the most common type on crafts.

CLASS C: Effective against electrical fires (engine, dashboard, and electrical wires)

New U.S. Coast Guard regulations took effect on April 20, 2022, changing the extinguisher expiration dates as well as the minimum classification of fire extinguishers carried aboard newer crafts.

These regulations put a 12-year expiration on all disposable (non-rechargeable) fire extinguishers. You can locate the two or four digits (e.g., 07 or 2007) manufacture year on the bottom of the extinguisher or near the UL label.

The other change is for crafts from 2018 or later where newer 5-B, 10-B, and 20-B classified extinguishers must be onboard instead of the former B-I and B-II which are being phased out. The numbers 5, 10, and 20 give an indication of the effectiveness of extinguishing a fire and refer to the square foot size of the potential fire which can be handled by the device (e.g., 5-B can put out a smaller fire than a 10-B). For crafts less than 26 feet and 2018 model year or later, extinguishers must be unexpired 5-B, 10-B, or 20-B. For 26 to 65 feet crafts, 2018 and later, requirements will vary.

The regulations are summarized as follows:

Craft Length                   With No Fixed System      With Approved Fixed Systems

Less than 26 feet          TWO B-1 / 5-B / 10-B               NONE

26 - less than 40 feet   TWO B-1 / 5-B / 10-B or          ONE B-1 / 5-B / 10-B

                                             ONE B-II / 20-B

40 feet to 65 feet            THREE B-1 / 5-B / 10-B          TWO B-1 / 5-B / 10-B or

                                             or ONE B-II / 20-B and

                                             ONE B-1 / 5-B / 10-B                ONE B-II / 20-B

A compromised fire extinguisher is useless in an emergency. To help make sure that your fire extinguisher will work when you need it, turn your fire extinguisher upside down and shake it at least once a month to prevent the firefighting agent from clumping.

Properly maintained fire extinguishers are:

1. On board and readily accessible

2. Of an approved type

3. Not expired or seem to be used

4. Maintained and in a serviceable condition with firmly placed lock pin, clean nozzle, absence of corrosion, and if present, a pressure gauge needle in the operable range.

Prevention

Until more recent fire extinguishing agents were developed, three elements were thought to be needed to start and maintain a fire that is heat, fuel, and oxygen. If any one of the three elements were removed, the fire would stop. Studies of modern fire extinguishing agents have uncovered a fourth element - a self-propagating chain reaction in the combustion process. As a result, the basic elements of fire are represented by the fire tetrahedron - HEAT, FUEL, OXYGEN, and CHAIN REACTION. The theory of fire extinguishment is based on removing any one or more of the four elements in the fire tetrahedron to stop the fire.

On a watercraft, a spark (heat) can ignite gasoline fumes (fuel) which may collect in poorly ventilated areas and cause a fire.

Response

Here are the steps to follow if a fire starts on your craft:

1. Stop the engine

2. Have the flames and smoke blow away from the vessel using the wind

3. Cut off the fuel source from the fire

4. Locate your fire extinguisher and:

- pull the pin

- aim at the base of the fire

- engage the extinguisher by squeezing the levers

- use a sweeping motion along the base of the fire

- keep spraying until the fire stops

1. Notify other boaters, if necessary, by using a distress signal or marine radio.

The anchor is another piece of safety equipment on a craft. There are different types of anchors with different characteristics, shapes, and sizes. They are chosen based on weather conditions, type, and size of the vessel, as well as bottom conditions.

If there is a risk of bad weather, or if the pleasure craft is in trouble, a safety option is to drop the anchor. To drop anchor is a safety technique as well as an alternative to mooring at a dock when spending the night away from the marina. As a precaution, the anchor must be easily accessible. If by misfortune the engine breaks down, the craft must be anchored to proceed with repairs. The anchor prevents the boat from drifting into dangerous areas. In a storm, look for an anchorage site safe from strong winds and other boat traffic. The site must be sufficiently deep. Make sure there is enough anchor line to keep the craft in place. There should be enough space around the boat if the wind happens to change direction.

Often operators have an anchor too small to do the job. If unsure as to what to get, buy an anchor heavier than what you believe is required. It is recommended to carry 2 different types of anchors like a fluke (Danforth) anchor and a Plow . This will give you more flexibility when anchoring in different terrain. It is also important to have enough length of line and chain known together as the rode. When the anchor is attached to the rode, it is known as the tackle. It is important to have a certain length of chain between the anchor and the rope. The weight of the chain improves the efficiency of the anchor and prevents premature wearing of the rope. Before dropping the anchor do not forget to fasten the opposite end of the rode to the craft (bow). Many anchors have been lost because this precaution was not taken. The selection of an anchor will depend on holding power and the type of underwater bottom. Commonly found bottoms consist of sand, mud, clay, and weeds. Popular anchor styles listed previously function in all these conditions. However, plow anchors function well with rocky bottoms, flukes function better in mud, and heavier anchors are ideal for weeds. Always attach your line from the bow.

Never throw the anchor. It could reach the bottom at a bad angle and not hold the craft. Let it drop down slowly until it touches the bottom. Then put the craft in reverse and let the rope unwind. Your line must be long enough so that the anchor does not break off the bottom from the pull of the vessel. You should use at least a 7:1 ratio, meaning that for every foot of water, you should use 7 feet of rode. This ratio is called the scope. Stay in reverse until the craft stops then put the gear into neutral. Never anchor small crafts from the side or the stern (back) as this could risk overturning the boat.

Anchoring is made up of choosing your location, dropping the anchor, laying out the scope, setting the tip, and determining where the vessel will position itself.

To achieve success:

• Make sure that the bottom is safe and allowable by checking your charts

• Once anchored, your vessel will move around with the wind so make sure that the area is free from obstacles

• If you have a specific area where you want to end up, drop the anchor upwind so that the wind will bring you back to that area

• Make sure that your line and chain (rode) are long enough, secured to the bow, and not tied around your leg. When the rode is about 1/3 out, pull on the line to see how it is set and then release.

Many types of EPIRB are available for pleasure crafts. They are designed to save your life if you get into trouble by alerting rescue authorities of your location. They can be manually or automatically activated. They range from about $200 up to $1500. For more information regarding these devices, please refer to the following website: http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=mtEpirb

A pleasure craft less than 65 feet long or which is mainly built of non-metallic materials and regularly used in areas where large ships navigate must be equipped with a passive radar reflector. Radar reflectors are a valuable piece of safety equipment because they help larger ships detect your presence on their radar screens. It must be mounted or suspended on the craft according to the manufacturers’ specifications and as high as possible. If the craft is used in light traffic conditions during the day and with favorable weather conditions, the law does not require the use of a radar reflector. The craft is not required to have one if it is not essential to the safety of your vessel or it is impractical to mount.

To deal with situations beyond your control, you can add other safety equipment in addition to the minimum required by law such as:

• a knife;

• a first aid kit including a survival guide;

• emergency rations;

• drinking water;

• dry clothes;

• hand compass or GPS;

• VHF radio;

• tool box containing matches, duct tape, spare flashlight batteries, basic tools and spare parts e.g., spark plugs, drain plug.

All this may be useful and/or necessary in case of an emergency

Boat operators need to remember that negligence of their boat maintenance and inadequate preparation for boating trips can lead to unsafe boating experiences, resulting in injuries and loss of life. Boat operators must also understand the importance of demonstrating life-saving equipment and providing safety instructions to their guests.

It is important to consult what is commonly known as the Pre-Departure checklist (see sample checklist at the end of chapter 5). The goal of it is to avoid situations that could lead to emergencies. Get to know your boat!

If you have passengers on board, it is essential to show them how to correctly wear the PFD/ lifejacket and make sure they are the appropriate size for each person. You must also inform your passengers on the readily accessible location of all the safety equipment (PDFs, fire extinguishers, visual distress signals) and how to use them. Passengers should also be informed about important procedures like; emergency radio operation, anchoring, rough weather, falls overboard, and line handling. Make sure that all the basic tools and the necessary replacement parts are on board. A toolkit may include pliers, some wrenches, screwdrivers, a knife, a hack-saw, tape, bolts, fuses, and replacement light bulbs. Check your navigation lights even if you plan to come back before sunset. Check the electric bilge pump and test the craft’s battery. If you have an inboard or an outboard four-stroke engine, check the oil level before departing and add accordingly. On two-stroke engines, if the oil is not mixed with the gasoline also verify the oil injection reservoir and add accordingly.

If your boat is equipped with a marine radio (VHF) verify that it is working by calling the marina on channel 68 or 70. (Channel 16 is exclusively for emergency calls).

Place safety equipment for easy access on board and let all passengers know their location and usage.

Before your departure, get into the habit of always looking at your pre-departure checklist to ensure your craft is in good working condition. This will avoid unnecessary problems later. Here are some of these things you should look for:

• The weather forecast, local hazards, or boating restrictions.

• The general condition of the craft.

• You have an ample amount of fuel for the trip (1/3 out, 1/3 return, 1/3 reserve).

• You have a complete First Aid Kit.

• You have the safety equipment according to the regulations.

• You have manual pumps available.

• All navigation lights are working properly.

• Completing the trip plan and leaving it with a responsible person.

• That your drainage plug is in.

Overloading your boat with passengers, equipment, or both is extremely dangerous for you and the people on board. If the weight is too heavy, your boat will become unstable and prone to rollover. It will be difficult to stabilize it again.

In accordance with the U.S.C.G. capacity plate, the craft operator must comply with maximum security limits. These limits apply only in good weather and when the weight is evenly distributed on board. In difficult conditions, you should use common sense. Keep the load as low as possible and tie down the equipment to limit its movement.

If your boat is over 19’8”, the capacity plate will not have any recommended limits. However, if overloaded, these boats can also become unstable. You should refer to your boat manufacturer’s user guide for recommendations, you should also use your judgment when loading and operating the boat.

Raw fuel is extremely harmful to the environment and the vapors can create a dangerous fire hazard. To ensure safe refueling procedures, follow these steps:

• Moor the craft tightly to the dock to prevent spillage and tie-down to prevent movement;

• Turn off the engine;

• Before beginning the procedure, extinguish all onboard flames (smoking or cooking flames, etc.);

• All uninvolved persons must leave the craft;

• One must not smoke while refueling;

• Turn off all electronic devices such as radios, switches, and batteries; one spark caused by a short in those electrical devices could produce an explosion;

• The hatches and port holes must be closed. Gasoline fumes are heavier than air, so they could spread to the bottom of the craft and cause an explosion when the engine is started;

• Portable tanks must always be filled off the boat while refueling. If there is any spillage of fuel, it would not land on the boat, but on the dock so there would be less chance of an explosion;

• With a fixed tank, it is important to ground the gas nozzle against the filler pipe to ensure it is safe;

• This will avoid static as a spark could cause an explosion;

• Do not overfill the fuel tank. Any overflow could leak through the ventilation or into the water and pollute the environment. You are obligated to clean up any gasoline spilled on the craft or the dock immediately. Throw away rags in approved containers;

• Check for vapor odors.

Most crafts require special ventilation systems used to remove accumulated gasoline fuel vapors that can be trapped in the closed engine compartment. These fumes can be highly explosive and flammable.

One of two ventilation systems can be used, depending on the kind of craft. Natural ventilation systems are not powered. They require at least two ventilator ducts to function, one intake duct to bring in the fresh air, and an exhaust duct to remove fumes from the bilge.

The air intake duct must extend midway to the bilge or below the level of the carburetor air intake.

The ducts in a natural ventilation system should be covered with cowl vents to increase airflow when the vessel is in motion.

Powered ventilation systems are also common in newer crafts. These systems use blowers to circulate air. The fan blades spin to force air to flow in and out of spaces where fumes can accumulate. Powered ventilation systems are required on crafts built after 1982 with installed fuel tanks or an enclosed engine.

Because of the explosiveness of gasoline fumes, before starting the engine, the blower must be turned on for a minimum of 4 minutes. Once the craft is moving, it is safe to stop the blower but at slow speeds or at idle, it is important to turn it back on. The avoidance of smoking around the exhaust is also compulsory.

Vessels with outboard motors where fumes cannot build up do not require a ventilation system.

Carbon monoxide (CO) is an invisible odorless gas. It is very difficult to detect without monitors and it kills hundreds of people every year. Organic material such as oil or gasoline produces CO when they are burned in an area with a limited supply of oxygen. CO is also generated when a flame contacts a surface that is cooler than the flame’s gas ignition temperature. The most common source of carbon monoxide is incomplete fuel burning – often from motors, generators, cooking ranges, heaters, and the like. People don’t realize that CO is present, since you cannot see it or smell it. You can die in minutes if you inhale large amounts of carbon monoxide. Inhaling even small amounts can cause health problems. It is important to be alert to the risk of this deadly gas.

Carbon monoxide is very dangerous because it can get into the bloodstream when inhaled. Once it is there, CO interferes with the blood’s ability to send oxygen to the tissues – including the heart and the brain. In worst cases, it can cause permanent brain damage or even death. The risk is even higher for pregnant women, as the blood carries the CO to the unborn child. Get the victim into a well-ventilated area, call 911 and seek medical attention immediately.

You should know the symptoms of CO poisoning. At a moderate level, you can get severe headaches, become dizzy, mentally confused, nauseated, or faint. You can even die if these levels persist for a long time. Low levels can cause shortness of breath, mild nausea, and mild headaches, and may have long-term effects on your health. Be aware of the symptoms because other conditions like seasickness have similar side effects.

Help protect yourself and others from CO poisoning by following these precautions:

• Let the motor run at idle only in a well-ventilated area.

• Heat the cabin and cook only when there is proper ventilation.

• Extensions and cabin areas that have canvas awnings should be well ventilated.

• Engines and fuel-burning appliances must be certified or designed for marine purposes and should only be used in well-ventilated areas.

• Use a carbon monoxide detector designed for boats and verify its batteries before each departure.

• Maintain the appliances according to the manufacturers’ recommendations.

• Read and follow all the instructions that accompany any fuel-burning devices.

• Only use approved for marine use equipment regarding fuel-burning appliances or devices.

• Follow all manufacturers’ installation instructions of fuel-burning appliances and devices.

Boaters should be aware of the circumstances when CO can build up, for example:

• Two vessels are tied to each other;

• You are docked alongside a seawall;

• Your load causes the bow to ride high;

• A fuel-burning appliance or engine is running while your vessel is not moving.

Warning to swimmers:

A swimmer can be overcome when inhaling CO and even drown within a short time. The underside of swimming platforms and the space between the pontoons of houseboats are also areas of risk. Platform dragging, which is when a boat is dragging a swimmer who is holding onto the swim platform, is illegal for this reason. The swimmer will have direct exposure to CO.

Gas emissions and leaks of propane or butane can spread rapidly in the lower parts of a boat. They are very explosive and difficult to identify. Devices that run on propane or butane pose a higher risk than those that run on gasoline.

Use the propane and butane safely by following these procedures:

• Use these devices only in a well ventilated area.

• Firmly attach the cooking appliances and portable heaters so that unexpected movement does not cause leakage.

• Secure the gas cylinders and gas tanks in an area with good ventilation.

• Install any fuel-burning equipment following the manufacturers’ instructions.

• Always supervise heaters, open flame cooking or refrigeration.

• Follow all manufacturers’ recommendations according to appliance installed.

Every vessel that is powered by gasoline or uses propane on board is at risk of fire or explosion caused by these vapors.

Vapors, especially by gasoline, can remain behind and build up in the engine compartment of a boat, even after its ventilation system blowers have been running for more than 4 minutes. Gasoline vapor is flammable and poses an explosion hazard if ignited. Reducing the risk of fire or explosion depends on eliminating flammable gasses and sources of ignition. Proper maintenance, safe fuel practices and use of approved parts will easily accomplish this safety task.

Here are a few steps a boater can take to reduce the risk of explosions:

• Make sure preventive maintenance is carried out regularly and when parts need replacement, they are replaced with marine compliant parts (some parts may look like automotive parts but differ for marine use);

• Loose, corroded or frayed electric wires and cables can cause sparks and must be changed or repaired;

• Inadequately mounted lead-acid battery can shift in the engine compartment and should be repaired or changed;

• Cracked, broken and weathered fuel lines can lead to gasoline leaks into the engine compartment;

• Fuel filters can rust, corrode or freeze, causing leaks of their own;

• Follow safe refueling practices as described previously in this course (Safety Procedures While Refueling);

• The simplest way to reduce the risk of explosion is to remove sources of heat and ignition. If an electrical component is in the engine room, fuel tank space, or space where fuel lines are, then the electrical component must be ignition protected. What does ignition protected mean? It means that a spark from the device will not ignite an air/fuel mixture in the same area. In other words, it won’t cause an explosion.

Onboard engines that burn gasoline as fuel must be equipped with flame arrestors. These units mount on the engine’s air intake and prevent engine backfires. A backfire is a small explosion outside of the sealed cylinders of the engine. The backfire arrestor prevents that small explosion to start a fire when encountering other fuel or fumes.

These devices must be installed and serviced according to the manufacturer thus ensuring proper function. Regular inspections and cleaning should occur by following the instructions in the owner’s manual or with the help of a marine mechanic. You should look for holes in the grid screen or other damages, and make sure that it is properly fastened to the carburetor. They cannot be removed or modified in any way.

Pleasure crafts are often hauled on trailers to and from a lake, river, or ocean. Preventive maintenance and care must be taken before departure to ensure a safe and problem-free towing of a boat on a trailer.

A correctly designed boat trailer will handle your boat securely on public access roads. Care must be taken that the craft is appropriately loaded and attached to secure points on the trailer according to manufacturers’ recommendations.

Handling of the towing vehicle will be impaired by the trailer as acceleration and braking are affected. Accelerate moderately and practice safe stopping before coming to a stop sign or circulation lights. The tow vehicle will handle differently with the trailer hooked up.

You need to be mindful when taking turns with a large load like a boat and trailer. You need to take them at a slower speed and at a wider angle to make sure you and your trailer make it around the corner.

Trailer Capacity Plate

Your trailer should have a capacity plate permanently attached. Just as you do for your boat, check the plate to make sure that you can carry not only your boat but everything additional as well. (motor, fuel, gear, etc.)

Something to pay attention to is the tongue weight. Which is the downward force put on the hitch ball. The tongue weight is determined by where the load is positioned in relationship to the trailer axle(s). If the tongue of the trailer does not use enough downward force on the tow vehicle's hitch ball, the trailer could sway. If the tongue weight is too heavy, it will be hard to steer.

Lastly, it is important to have the correct trailer class for the corresponding hitch:

TRAILER CLASS                      TOWING WEIGHT

Class 1                                        not to exceed 2000 lbs.

Class 2                                       2001 lbs. to 3500 lbs.

Class 3                                       3501 lbs. to 5000 lbs.

Class 4                                       over 5000 lbs. up to 12,000 lbs.

Trailer care includes but is not limited to verification:

• and adjustment of the tire pressure to manufacturers’ specifications (verify when the tire is cold as a hot tire will give a false reading);

• of the torque setting on each lug nut to manufacturers’ specifications using a torque wrench (follow the correct tightening sequence);

• of all safety tie-down straps and chains;

• of all lights in accordance with the towing vehicle’s parking, signal, and brake lights;

• of proper towing ball size in accordance with the towing vehicle and latches;

• of wheel bearings for excess end play and greasing according to manufacturers’ recommendations;

• of towing vehicle’s capacity of load handling according to manufacturers’ specifications;

• of all accessories which are fastened and working properly (e.g., winch, rollers, torsion bars).

NOTE: Upon attaching the trailer to the towing vehicle, the mandatory safety chains must be crossed under the tongue of the trailer (right side chain is installed on the left side loop of the towing vehicle, and left side chain is installed on the right side loop of the towing vehicle); in case the coupler accidentally unlatches, the chains will steer with the vehicle rather than wandering side to side.

Before heading out with your pleasure craft and trailer, one should practice in an open area to get the proper feel of the trailer and boat being towed. Practice is needed to back-up a trailer safely and without incidents. An incident at a launching ramp can be costly and can be avoided by practicing in a parking lot or a field. It is recommended, if possible, to observe another vehicle at the proposed launching ramp to avoid incidents.

Launching requires following these steps:

• locate the launching ramp and inspect prior to backing up to it to get a sense of direction and observe the hazards in the area (e.g., rocks, depth of water, buoys, ramp, dock);

• disconnect the trailer lights (to prevent bulbs from shattering in cold water or cause a short) from the vehicle connector;

NOTE: At this point it is good practice to verify that the cranking battery is adequate to start the engine or motor momentarily.

• disconnect the stern tie-down straps;

• install the fenders on the side that the boat will dock;

• attach the mooring lines (one at bow and other at stern);

• install drain plug;

• disconnect the front bow hold down chain from trailer (but leave the winch in locked position until boat or trailer touches the water);

• slowly back-up into the water, guiding the boat as near as possible to the dock;

• have your help hold on to both mooring lines to guide the boat;

• back-up until the trailer tires are less than half submerged (by submerging the trailer bearings cold water can enter the hot greased bearing area and cause future damage);

• free the winch bow hook cable or strap to let boat launch by gravity or by floating in water;

• pull the boat towards the dock and once freed from the trailer pull the towing vehicle out slowly (care must be taken to ensure that no lines, cables, chains or such are dragging on the ground and may get tangled in rotating tires);

• before driving out, take note roughly where the trailer was according to the water level. This will help with retrieving the vessel;

• before exiting the vehicle (for any length of time), make sure that the transmission is in the PARK position with the emergency brake fully applied. If the vehicle is equipped with a standard transmission; turn the engine off, put the shift lever in first gear and apply the emergency brake before leaving vehicle. All this to make sure the vehicle, trailer and boat don’t back up and plunge into the water.

*Note variations can occur depending on steepness of the ramp, condition of ramp/docking area, helping hands on deck, water level and weather conditions. Also, it is a good practice to wear appropriate footwear as a ramp can be slippery or have sharp rocks which can cause injury.

Retrieving or loading a boat on a trailer requires care and attention to avoid damage to property and/or avoid incidents.

It is not recommended to power load a boat on a trailer, which is when you drive a boat directly onto the trailer from the water, as such practice can be dangerous and costly to repair damages (e.g., to bow or bottom of boat and/or trailer hardware). This practice can also cause irreversible damage to the environment when the propeller pushes excess water and washes the bottom of lake, river or ocean.

Steps for the safe retrieval and loading of the boat on a trailer include but are not limited to:

• raising the motor or outdrive to full up position (to avoid propeller and outdrive damage upon retrieval);

• installing the mooring lines (one at bow and other at stern) from the docked boat;

• backing-up the trailer on the same side as the docked boat until approximate depth as noted upon launching;

• using the mooring lines, guide the boat onto the trailer until the winch cable can reach the bow hook cable or strap;

• having help guide the boat as it is being winched on the trailer;

• attaching the bow chain from the trailer on the bow hook once the boat is on the support rollers or bed and is level on the trailer;

• pulling the trailer out slowly to make sure lines, ropes, chains don’t come in contact with rotating tires;

• removing the drain plug and any weeds from the boat and/or trailer as soon as the boat is out of the water, (upon arrival at the destination, it is recommended to pressure wash the underside of the hull to remove any unwanted invasive species (e.g., zebra mussels, clams, algae));

• attaching the stern tie-down straps;

• re-installing the trailer light connector and verifying that all lights work in sync with the vehicle’s lights;

• removing the fenders, mooring lines and all loose articles that can fly off when driving and store accordingly;

• driving away slowly and keeping a watchful eye on the trailer and boat.

Pleasure crafts are easier to steal than land vehicles. They are often left unattended for long periods of time and thieves can easily identify a craft that has been left alone for a number of days/months without usage. A boat on a trailer is also easier to steal than in the water. One can protect his or her valuables by following these simple steps:

• Verify your coverage with your boat insurance company regarding theft of a boat or its content and make sure you meet the insurance’s requirements (e.g., locks on trailer and or latches, chains, alarms);

• Keep track of all serial numbers including the Hull Identification Number (HIN) and all equipment on board (e.g., outdrive, engine and all its accessories, fish finder, down rigging equipment, radio) and if possible take accompanying pictures. Note all scratches, color of accessories and if special numbers or markings are engraved or written using an UV pen;

• Keep receipts or credit card statements of all purchased equipment and store in a place out of boat;

• On smaller crafts the use of a chain or cable through removable items and the dock will reduce the risk of theft;

• Keep valuable out of reach and locked in storage compartment when leaving boat docked or on a trailer;

• Install a professional alarm system including decals. Installing only decals or fake cameras can also prevent boat thefts from occurring.

It is important before heading out on the water to make sure your boat is safe and ready. Here are a few recommended maintenance steps to ensure everyone can have an enjoyable time on the water:

- Change your engine’s oil at proper intervals according to the manufacturer's oil change recommendations or once each season

- Periodically inspect your boat’s hoses and belts and make sure they are securely fastened to their respective fittings.

- Check all through-hull fittings for leakage and corrosion. Ensure their valves can open and close.

- Maintain electrical connections and batteries especially when signs of corrosion are visible.

- Keep the decks and the hull of your boat cleaned and waxed. This will make for better fuel efficiency and a longer life span for your boat.

- Test the use of your engine cutoff device (if installed)

While navigating on the water, boaters are responsible for being knowledgeable of the waterways, its rules, regulations, navigation aids, general rules of the roads, restrictions and especially how to navigate safely including speed safety, weather conditions, local hazards, etc. It is important the operator not operate the vessel in a careless manner or without reasonable consideration for other people, vessels or the environment. Navigation aids are systems or devices installed by government or local authorities and private groups that warn of any hazards or obstacles such as shallow areas.

U.S. Aids to Navigation System is provided by the U.S. Coast Guard as an aid to the operator of a pleasure craft. This system uses simple arrangements of colors, shapes, numbers and lights to indicate navigable channels, and/or obstacles in our waterways. They also help determine one’s position on the water and to find the best route to one’s destination. These guidance devices could be buoys, lighthouses, nautical charts and other aids to navigation. For a complete coverage of these aids, a pamphlet of the U.S. Aids to Navigation System is available. Please refer to the U.S.C.G. website at:

https://www.uscgboating.org/images/486.PDF

The U.S. Aids to Navigation System is meant to be used in conjunction with nautical charts. These charts are an important component used by operators of pleasure crafts when planning for trips and to safely navigate in our waterways. The information found on these charts include:

• shape of the coast;

• location of buoys;

• location of beacons;

• depth of water;

• land features (towers, hydro dams);

• directional information (cardinal points. North, East, South, West);

• location information (latitude and longitude coordinates);

• marine hazards (shoals, shipwrecks).

For the pleasure craft, nautical charts (or hydro-graphic charts) are graphic nautical representations that indicate the different bodies of water, such as shipping lanes. These may point to adjacent waters for navigation (neighboring coastal areas), points of reference such as bridges and their height, etc. These are used to simplify navigation.

Nautical charts have particular characteristics that do not exist on ordinary road maps or atlas. They have the 32 points of the compass (compass rose) which allow one to trace one’s exact route and even help determine one’s exact position using the latitude and longitude coordinates. Large scale charts, which show a section of the territory, are often very useful as they are more detailed.

The topographic maps are used for traveling on land and show natural characteristics of the land above the water and details of the land areas. They include artificial land obstacles, elevation points, coasts and rocks don’t offer the proper information to the operator of a pleasure craft and should not be used as reference.

NOTE: U. S. Aids to Navigation System refers to waters west and east of the Mississippi river. Please refer to your boating location regarding the different applications on aids to navigation.

These markers are aids to navigation that are fixed permanently. They may be located on land or in the water. They can be lit for night or poor visibility or they can be day beacons, which are not lit. Day beacons have a contrasting color from their background to easily spot them.

The port-hand day beacon

- Is similar to a port-hand lateral buoy. It indicates the left side of a preferred channel. It must be on the left when the craft is going upstream.

- It is a green square with odd numbers

-It has no lights and is visible only during daylight.

The starboard-hand day beacon

- Is similar to a starboard-hand lateral buoy. It indicates the right side of a preferred channel. It must be on the right when the craft is going upstream.

- It is identified as a red triangle with even numbers

- It has no lights and is visible only during daylight.

These markers are also aids to navigation that float in the water. They come in various shapes and sizes and are moored to the bottom of the water using concrete and tied with a chain or other materials. They are used to give important information to the operator of a craft. It is illegal to moor to a buoy as they can be made invisible to another boater and cause property damage, serious injuries or death. They are intended to transmit information to the operator by their shape; color; visible signal and/or audible signal.

These dayboards markers are used in pairs. They are located and colored in such a way to spot them easily. They are used together and once aligned indicate the correct path to navigate in a channel. When they are not aligned the craft is off course and running aground could occur. Some may be lettered as others are not, most are lit but not always and the far away beacon is taller than the closer one.

All other aids to navigation not overseen by the U.S. Coast Guard are Private Aids to Navigation. They can be a buoy, light or day beacon. They are owned and maintained by any individual or organization other than the U.S. Coast Guard. These aids are designed to mark private channels, marine obstructions or similar hazards found on private waterways.

Lateral Aids to Navigation indicate which side of the channel to navigate a vessel or pleasure craft. They announce potential danger or hazards that exist in the waterway. It is important to recognize if you are going upstream or downstream when using these aids. The reference to these directions is as one enters from seaward or entering a body of water from a larger body of water. This can be determined by looking at your nautical charts unless you are familiar with the area. The 3R rule “RED, RIGHT, RETURNING” is the rule of thumb to remember the correct use of the lateral system. Thus, keeping the red (RED) aids to starboard (RIGHT) returning to a harbor from the ocean (RETURNING). Returning can also be defined as:

• going up a river (upstream);

• southerly along the Atlantic Ocean;

• northerly along the Pacific Ocean.

Lateral buoys are located alongside the recommended channel and can be seen from a good distance. The recommended passage is between those two buoys.

The port-hand buoy is green and is located on the port-side (left) of your boat as you are travelling upstream. The green buoys are identified with odd numbers.

The starboard-hand buoy is red and is located on the starboard-side (right) of your boat as you are travelling upstream. The red buoys are identified with even numbers.

Preferred Channel Marks are found at intersections of navigable channels and mark wrecks or obstructions. The top color or band indicates the preferred channel. When the top band is red, it must be kept on the starboard side of the craft. The appropriate nautical chart should always be consulted. They are identified with letters rather than numbers.

Non-lateral aids to navigation consists of safe-water marks, ranges, isolated danger, marks, mooring buoys and special marks. These are compared to road signs bearing informational, regulatory and warning signs.

They are:

Diamond Shaped Day Boards used to determine location. They indicate that you are here. An appropriate nautical chart must be used as reference for these signs.

Safe Water Marks used to indicate safe passages in fairways, mid-channels and off-shore approach points. They are safe on either side. As other aids, they must be used in conjunction with appropriate nautical charts.

The mooring buoy is used for mooring or securing vessels. Be aware that when you see one, a vessel may be secured to it.

The swimming buoy marks the perimeter of a swimming area.

The diving buoy marks an area where diving activities are in progress and are not usually shown on charts.

Diving Flag

The blue and white flag of the International Code of Signals is to be displayed on the diving boats. The diving buoy is a red flag with a white diagonal line across it and it indicates the location where the divers are under the water. This flag can be seen floating on the water or sometimes it can be attached to the diver so that when the diver moves, the flag will follow. You should be careful to make sure that your vessel stays outside a radius of 328 ft (100 meters) of their flag. If you cannot keep such a large distance, slow down as much as possible, move cautiously and stay away from the boat and the diving area to avoid any underwater collisions between the engine’s propeller(s) and the diver(s).

Remember: keep your distance from divers below the surface.

The keep out buoy marks an area where boats are prohibited. These buoys are white with an orange diamond with a cross of the same color on the two opposite sides on the inside and two orange bands over and below the diamond.

The control buoy marks an area where boats are also restricted. The buoy is white with an orange open-faced circle on two opposite sides and two orange horizontal bands, one above and one below the circle. A number or a symbol inside the circle indicates the restriction in effect.

The hazard buoy marks random hazards such as rocks and shoals. It is white with an orange diamond at the center of two opposite sides and has a band above and below the diamond. Information regarding the hazard is illustrated inside the diamond.

The information buoy displays, by words or symbols, information of interest to the craft operator. It is white with an orange open-faced square symbol on two opposite sides and two orange horizontal bands, one above and one below the square symbol.

All operators of a pleasure craft must navigate safely and above all, share the waterways so as not to create situations of risk or potential danger to other boaters, swimmers, divers, wildlife and the environment in general.

You must always maintain a constant lookout, meaning you must always look around you to see if there are hazards or other boaters giving distress signals.

Some boaters do not realize the risk they take when they cross shipping lanes or pass in front of larger vessels. You must never interfere with the passage of large shipping vessels in a shipping lane. A shipping lane is the predetermined channel used by commercial vessels. You must always give way to those vessels. It is very difficult for them to change their course and they require a very long distance to come to a full stop. The crew of those vessels are standing very high above the water line which makes it very difficult for them to see smaller boats on the water. Most of the time they will navigate using sophisticated electronic equipment, such as radars and GPS.

Since these vessels probably will not see you until it is too late, remember to:

• always watch for others on the water and be ready to yield to large vessels in the safest way;

• keep in mind the water and weather conditions. Use radar and radio if you have them;

• navigate in groups of other small boats when possible, to be more visible;

• stay off the water in fog or high winds;

• stay clear of docked ferries, ferries in transit, vessels in tow and working fishing vessels.

To remind you of the requirement to give way, the large ship will issue five or more short blasts. This means that the situation has reached the level of urgency and you need to clear the way.

All motorized crafts must take early and substantial action to stay clear of sailing crafts or active pleasure fishing crafts, paddle craft, canoes and kayaks. However, pleasure crafts that practice line or fly-fishing must also abide by the same regulations as those of other power-driven vessels. A sailboat operator must take early and substantial action to keep clear of a pleasure craft on which the passengers are fishing. An active net-fishing craft is not maneuverable.

Speed limits depend on the craft and the prevailing conditions.

The operator, when determining a safe speed, must consider the following factors: visibility, traffic density, wind conditions, tides, currents, ice, weather conditions and navigational hazards. The operator of a pleasure craft that is not within sight of other vessels and in or near an area of restricted visibility must navigate at a safe speed at all times. Operators must adapt to the prevailing circumstances and conditions of restricted visibility.

When operating a craft at high speed, a longer distance is required to come to a stop. The operator has to be more attentive because his reaction time to changing conditions has diminished. At times of low visibility, the regulations require an operator to adopt a speed based on the prevailing conditions, like at night or when there is fog. The operator must slow down in bad weather to avoid losing control of the craft and endangering people on board.

It is dangerous to navigate close to the wake of a large ship. The water turbulence that it produces could cause a loss of control of their craft. The wake produced by a pleasure craft is not like those of a large ship, but they could easily overturn a canoe. Therefore, keep in mind when navigating that the wake created could endanger other pleasure craft operators.

Each operator is responsible for the wake that he or she creates with his or her pleasure craft. Therefore, you must be alert and overtake another boat with care at all times and at a safe speed so that your wake will not adversely affect:

• other vessels, including anchored vessels, grounded vessels, wrecks, dredges, tows, rowboats or canoes;

• work being done on the shoreline, docks, floats, or wetlands;

• other waterway users such as swimmers;

• areas of bathing beaches, areas where divers are working, or areas of anchorage.

The operator of a pleasure craft should always check the weather forecast before departing to verify that his or her vessel and passengers on board are safe from possible danger. The weather and water conditions can play an important role in your safety on the water. Before you leave, make sure you get the latest weather forecasts for your area. You should also be aware of local factors (such as topography) that may affect the weather. A good source of information for specific situations is local people who are familiar with the area. Summer thunderstorms can strike quickly and without warning when you are navigating. Remember to keep an eye on the sky. If the sky starts to look dark and cloudy and conditions are changing rapidly, head for shore. Remember to check your references for navigation, including charts, before you leave so you know where to find a refuge quickly in time of need. If you do not have charts, you could find your bearings by observing the shore or the area and establish reference points.

You can obtain the weather forecast via all media (radio, television, newspaper, etc).

You can also contact the National Weather Service http://www.weather.gov/, use the marine radio and, finally, you can make your own personal observations. There are many ways of observing the local weather: by flying a flag, by watching the movements of tree branches; the direction of smoke from a chimney; or by the direction and height of waves; and for the well informed, by observing a barometer and the clouds.

The wind speed in knots: 1 knot = 1.1 miles/hour (mph)

When high wind speeds are expected, National Weather Service will issue a wind warning in the marine forecast and categorize them in four levels:

• Strong Wind Warning (20 – 33 knots) (22 – 36 mph)

• Gale Warning (34 – 47 knots) (37 – 52 mph)

• Storm Warning (48 – 63 knots) (53 – 69 mph)

• Hurricane Force Wind Warning (64 knots or more) (70 mph or more)

There are various local risks and hazards on each body of water and each have their own characteristics. Rapids are a hazard because of the speed of the current that prevents you from being able to properly maneuver your craft. Rapids are usually shallow water with large rocks scattered beneath the surface of the water. If you hit a rock, the boat, the propeller or lower unit could be damaged. Low-head dams, white water and bridges can also impede the operation of a pleasure craft. If navigating a sailboat, it is important to properly evaluate the space between the top of the mast and overhead electric cables as many sailboat operators have been electrocuted because of this carelessness.

You must always be ready for all unforeseen eventualities. You must also make sure that your boat and all its equipment are in good condition and operate according to standards. You must also:

• carry up-to-date nautical charts of the area where you are navigating so that you are aware of the location of raised obstacles, bridges and underwater cables;

• learn how to read and interpret nautical charts - consult tide tables and other documentation, which will help you learn more about water levels, periods of low tide, slack and high tide, and the direction of the current;

• always keep clear of swimming areas - even boats without engines such as canoes and kayaks can cause accidents and injure swimmers;

• avoid navigating too close to shore as this can damage the banks by creating erosion;

• (strongly recommended) prior to navigating in an area where you are not familiar, contact the area residents who are familiar with the waters, especially if you are in uncharted areas. They may be able to identify local hazards such as shallow areas or rapids and white water, and to describe the local wind conditions, currents and areas where high waves are easily formed.

Underwater cables also represent danger. When the anchor is dropped, it can get caught on the underwater cable and potentially cause an electrocution. A craft can also be overturned while trying to haul up an anchor that is caught on the cables. Nautical charts point out underwater cables. There are often signs located on shore that mark the presence of these underwater cables.

Lakes surrounded by hills are susceptible to sudden wind changes. There can be a rapid change in wind speed and direction without warning, thus, causing a craft to become unstable and possibly overturn.

Areas where tides and different currents exist, all add to the complexity of navigation, they must not be overlooked.

When the tide is in the opposite direction of the wind, you can face ripples of the waves which may overturn a craft, even if the wind is light. If the amplitude of the tide is not known when a craft is anchored, you could be surprised to find the craft completely out of the water when the tide recedes.

When the water is shallow and the intensity of the wind increases, waves can become very large and will break. You must always be alert to wind conditions and always maintain a constant watch on weather patterns and changes.

The main objective of the float plan is to help a search and rescue team in the event you get lost. Before heading out, complete the float Plan with the necessary details that could assist if an emergency call is necessary.

The first section of the float plan should include a full and detailed description of the boat (size, color, make, engine type, etc.). It should also include a list of the major safety equipment on board and the type of monitored radio channel (HF, VHF, MF). A section of the float plan should include details of the trip: itinerary, dates, length of the trip, etc. Finally, it should also include information on the owner (or operator if different) and all passengers on board. All this information can be proven to be important and pertinent when a search and rescue party is sent out.

In the last part, provide instructions in case of emergency. Before heading out, it is important to leave a copy of the plan with a responsible person such as the port master, a good friend, or a family member.

If, for any reason, your itinerary changes and you decide to return to the marina or point of departure earlier or later than planned, inform the person who has your float plan so they will not inadvertently start a search. It is then important to close the float plan when it has been completed.

A model copy of a float plan is located at the end of Chapter 5.

The popularity of Personal Watercrafts (PWC) has increased in the past years. These watercraft handle differently from a pleasure craft as the power to weight ratio is increased. They are also designed to be sat, knelt, or stood on unlike typical boats where passengers sit or stand. The quick acceleration is enhanced and requires more ability to maneuver these crafts. Age restrictions also apply on these watercrafts as manufacturers’ recommendations limit operators to a minimum of 16 years of age. State laws that dictate age restrictions must be verified before riding a PWC in the respective state.

Each manufacturer offers an accompanying safety guide booklet or owner’s manual that must be left on board and must be read by the operator before heading out.

Typical safety awareness labels are located in view of the operator. Read them and respect them. They are there to help prevent personal injury or cause property damage.

The propulsion on a PWC comes from a jet drive as shown above, which is powered by an inboard engine that is located under the seat or near the rear of the craft. The engine is directly coupled to an impeller via a driveshaft and pushes water out the rear to move water thus pushing the PWC forward.

The jet drive is also the steering component of the PWC; therefore, if no water is moved out the rear because no throttle pressure is applied, no steering will be available making it impossible to veer. It is important as you drive a PWC to not release the throttle when trying to steer away from an object; you need to throttle to steer the PWC. It is therefore important that you proceed with care when you are returning to shore or dock, or near obstacles.

Steering, stability, and handling are affected depending on the number of passengers, load, and weather conditions (e.g., waves, wind). Practice and care must be considered when driving a PWC to familiarize yourself with slowing down, stopping, and avoiding obstacles.

Make sure to consult your owner’s manual and the onboard label for your PWC’s load capacity. The recommended load capacity should never be exceeded to stay safe and to respect the law in many states.

The rear of a PWC is a dangerous area of the craft and care must be taken when boarding from the water to make sure the engine is not running. Water and debris exiting the jet drive can result in serious injury or death.

The intake grates located under the PWC must be kept clear of incoming articles (e.g., long hair, linens, clothing, or towels). Severe damage to the impeller can occur if a foreign object enters through the grate. Serious injury or death can occur if hair or body parts are introduced through the grates. Follow the manufacturers’ recommendations for caring and maintenance of the water intake system.

It is recommended by all manufacturers to enroll in a safe boating course like this one to understand the rules of the road as all other boaters should. The wearing of an approved and properly fitted PFD is also mandatory to operate or ride as a passenger on a PWC. Make sure to always have a free seat for the towed person onboard the PWC.

All PWCs are equipped with a safety lanyard that must be attached before operating. The picture below indicates the black connector (on right) which is installed on the PWC, and the other metal clip (on left) is attached to the PFD or clothing of the operator. If the operator suddenly falls off, the engine will turn off and your PWC will come to a stop quickly for your safety and that of other boaters and swimmers. It is impossible to start the engine without having this safety device installed.

The quick acceleration and maneuverability of PWCs mean that it is common for them to turn over. Turning them upright is simple but must be done correctly. Most PWCs will have a decal on the transom which shows the proper direction to turn to the upright position.

Practice in calm waters should be done before reboarding a PWC and following the manufacturers’ recommendations is a must. These general guidelines should be followed:

• Move towards the PWC from the directions marked on the hull

• Pull yourself up and kneel on the boarding platform

• Slide onto the seat

• Attach lanyard to yourself

It is your responsibility as an operator to follow and observe the boating laws in your state while riding a PWC. Onboard safety equipment varies by state and it is the operator and the owner’s responsibility to verify that the PWC meets all requirements before riding. More on your state’s PWC requirements in chapter 6.

It is required by law that all operators of PWC watch out for other smaller crafts that are not as maneuverable (e.g., kayaks, canoes, paddleboards) in the area where you’ll be riding. In general, it is important to operate your PWC respectfully by being aware of others and your surroundings. Make sure to slow down when close to shore, near other vessels, or at the dock.

Always follow the 1/3 rule for fuel usage; 1/3 for operation, 1/3 to get back to shore, and 1/3 as a reserve for emergencies. Most PWCs have a reserve fuel tank to allow you to head to shore if you run out of fuel.

In conclusion, the safe operation of your PWC is a priority to prevent accidents. Some important points to remember are:

• Avoid sharp or erratic turns

• Do not operate in shallow water to avoid pump clogging

• Keep aware of other vessels and swimmers

• Know how to turn the PWC upright and to reboard

• Do not exceed the load capacity

• Wear an approved lifejacket

• Do not drink alcohol before or during boating

• Check weather and water conditions before and during use

• Follow correct refueling procedures

• Do not operate between sunset and sunrise

This term is used when a craft approaches a dock for storage or fueling. Proper speed is important upon docking in all conditions. The load and weight of a boat also influences the stopping distance of the craft. Too fast an approach will result in damage to hull, dock or other crafts nearby. Too slow an approach will result in little or no control over the craft. Make sure all helping hands are advised of your intentions. You as the operator, has the responsibility to assign tasks for each person helping. Identify the docking side of the boat prior to approaching and prepare the fenders by adjusting their height accordingly. Wind and current directions play an important role upon docking and one must identify the effect on one or both before approaching a dock. As a safety precaution, hands and feet must be kept clear of areas between dock and boat. Wind and waves can shift a boat violently towards dock and could cause serious bodily injury or even death. Docks are sometimes accessible on both sides and a beginner should consider the easiest approach. The use of an extendable pole can ease docking by bringing boat towards dock or pushing it away upon leaving.

Next is a list of different approaches according to wind and/or current direction:

Wind or current towards dock (easiest of approach):

• approach the dock slowly and parallel but not too close to the dock;

• let the wind or current push you in towards the dock;

• tie down either bow or stern (no preference).

Wind or current coming off the dock (more difficult an approach):

• as the wind is coming from the front of the boat, approach the dock at a 30° angle;

• slowly power the vessel forward until deck hand tosses a mooring line or carefully steps and secures the bow of the boat;

• after the bow of the boat is secured, shift into reverse and steer towards the dock (the propeller will pull the boat towards the dock);

• tie the stern of boat.

Wind or current coming at the front of boat and parallel to the dock (this approach needs practice):

• approach the dock at a 15° to 20°;

• when the bow of the boat is near the dock but not touching, shift into reverse and turn the wheel all way towards the dock (the propeller will draw the boat towards the dock);

• tie the bow followed by the stern.

Wind or current coming from behind of boat and parallel to the dock (this approach needs practice):

• approach as near and parallel to the dock as possible;

• let the boat coast in after shifting to neutral;

• shift into reverse momentarily to bring the boat to a stop;

• upon approaching, tie the stern mooring line first;

• as soon as the boat is in proper location, tie the bow mooring line;

• pull the boat towards dock and tie it down.

Similar to docking, weather conditions, the load, the wind and/or current, all have a part to play when leaving from a dock. Make sure the engine has reached operating temperature to avoid stalling.

Next is a list including different wind and/or current directions upon leaving from a dock:

Wind or current coming off the dock (easiest of leaving)

• untie only the bow mooring line, the wind or current will push the front of the boat away from dock;

• slowly release the stern mooring line and the boat will push away from dock;

• once the boat has cleared enough at stern, drive forward and away.

Wind or current parallel to the dock (easy leave from dock)

• the wind or current will help push the boat away from dock;

• untie the stern mooring line and shift into reverse while turning the wheel away from the dock (this will pull stern of boat away from dock);

• with the bow mooring still attached to dock and once the boat is at an acceptable angle, slowly release the bow mooring line while returning the steering wheel in a straight reverse direction.

Wind or current towards the dock (more difficult of leaving)

• the wind or current pushes the boat towards the dock making it more difficult to release;

• maintain the bow mooring line attached to the dock;

• untie the stern mooring line;

• apply light forward engine power to overcome the wind or current and the boat will pivot at the bow;

• when the boat is near 90° to the dock, shift into reverse while releasing the bow line;

• navigate in reverse until it is safe to shift into forward to clear dock and other crafts or surroundings.

Waterskiing and other water sports include all sports in which a person is being towed by a craft. Each state has specific regulations regarding the towing of skier(s) and includes boarder(s), tuber(s) and gives very precise rules that must be followed in order to ensure everybody’s safety, both on board and on the water. Some states accept the usage of mirrors mounted on the towing vessel but with specific details regarding their size and location and or the use of a spotter. There must also be enough seating capacity in the boat to accommodate every person being towed. Every person being towed must be wearing a PFD or life jacket or it must be available in the boat for all those being towed. This is the same rule that requires that every person on board must have a PFD or life jacket of appropriate size to be available for them.

It is prohibited to tow anybody in periods of restricted visibility or in the period beginning one hour after sunset and ending at sunrise. Water sports have a certain degree of risk and danger; it would be responsible and logical not to increase these risks and danger by not following these safety regulations on water sports.

Exemptions for these above regulations exists when competing or during a skill demonstration but is also defined by each state. However, the vessel must nonetheless meet the safety requirements of a governing body respecting that training, competition or demonstration.

When an emergency occurs on the water, it is essential to be able to communicate with the authorities on the shore or with other vessels in the area in order to get assistance. To achieve this, a new international system called the Global Maritime Distress and Safety System (GMDSS) has been developed. This system increases the efficiency of marine communication. This system can be used by any type of vessel, from the smallest one to the largest one. It can quickly transmit a distress call to the Coast Guard and to other vessels in the area. Finally, it also enables other types of non-emergency communications, like ship to shore, ports of calls and canal locks system authorities. Marine radios are used to incorporate safety calls as well; a message calling from shore “SECURITY, SECURITY, SECURITY” is about to transmit a message concerning navigation safety or an important weather warning.

Here is a list of regulated marine distress and safety communication equipment:

• marine VHF radios (with the new Digital Selective Calling [DSC] option on channel 70);

• marine MF/HF – DSC radios;

• Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRBs);

• Navigational Text Messages (NAVTEX);

• Inmarsat.

Although it is not mandatory, it is recommended that pleasure crafts carry GMDSS-compatible equipment. If your pleasure craft has such equipment on board, you can connect it to a Global Positioning System (GPS). This way, your exact position can be transmitted automatically as a distress signal and in a digital format.

Marine VHF radios are the most common way of communicating a distress signal. When you can, always keep your VHF radio on channel 16. VHF radio channel 16 is used for emergency calling purposes only. Once you contact another vessel on channel 16 to give your exact position and the nature of your emergency, switch to another working frequency.

If you have a marine VHF radio on board and you need to make an emergency distress call (e.g., your craft is rapidly taking water and/or you are in immediate life threatening danger of capsizing or sinking) use the channel 16 to make that call. Then say very clearly “Mayday – Mayday – Mayday” and give the name of your boat, its position, the nature of your problem and the type of help you need.

If you need help but are not in immediate danger (e.g., your motor has stopped working and you cannot reach the shore), use channel 16 and say “Pan Pan – Pan Pan – Pan Pan” then give the name of your boat, its position, the nature of your problem and the type of help you need.

Depending on where you are located and if you have a cellular signal, you may use your cell phone to get search and rescue assistance by dialing *16. Because cell phones are not always in range of a signal, this should not be considered as a substitute to a marine radio. These radios are recommended in case of emergency to ensure that your distress calls are received properly.

Marine GPS were originally used by the Coast Guard to be able to track ships as they travelled along the coastline. This gave them an idea as to what direction they were heading and how quickly they were travelling. It also enabled them to maintain communication between land and the vessel in case of an emergency.

Marine GPS units have greatly evolved over the years; the technology now enables us to determine our exact position and use them along with nautical charts to plan our routes and determine the safest way to get to our destination. More and more boaters have and use GPS systems on board. It is a world-wide radio-navigation system that links satellites and monitoring stations. It can determine your exact position with no less than 25 feet of accuracy. This type of technology could also allow you to avoid collisions with other crafts by determining your position and that of other crafts in the area. Although all this new technology is very reliable and has proven itself over the years, it is always a good thing to have a backup system, like nautical charts and a compass.

If you use a GPS on the water, make sure it is a marine GPS which incorporates the navigational charts and are waterproof. Road GPS will not provide you with all the information you need on the water.

• Arm signal: outstretch your arms on each side and do slow repetitive gestures from top to bottom. (Do not use this technique near a helicopter because the meaning is different).

• Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRB): this is used to signal an emergency location.

• Signal transmitted by radiotelephony or by any other signal system.

• S O S (…- - -…) in Morse code or possibly using a flashlight.

• A shot gun or other explosive signal may be fired at intervals of about 1 minute.

• A continuous sound with any fog-signaling device.

• Rockets or shells that shoot up red stars one at a time at short intervals.

• Use distress flags N and C from the International Code of Signals.

• A rocket parachute flare or hand flare shoots up a red light.

• A smoke signal that gives off orange colored smoke.

• A piece of orange canvas with a black square and a black circle.

• A dye marker.

• A square shape.

• A high intensity white light flashed at regular intervals of 50 to 70 times per minute.

• A signal consisting of a square flag with a ball or anything resembling a ball.

In case of engine malfunction or the breakdown of a pleasure craft, take the following steps depending on the circumstances:

1. Alter the speed of the craft

2. Anchor the craft

3. Investigate the problem

4. Correct the problem, if possible

5. Use or exhibit signals to indicate distress and need of help

There are a few steps and procedures to take when your boat takes on water.

First, attempt to locate the source of the water leak. Is there a leak in the hull? Is an underwater component defective such as the engine’s water cooling system or electric bilge pumps? Did you forget to install the rear drain plug? Once you have discovered where the water is entering the vessel, attempt to stop the leakage. If it is an underwater hull breach, use any type of plug (such as a piece of wood) in order to try to block the hole. If it is a crack caused by friction on a rock, the use of an epoxy that hardens or catalyzes underwater can sometimes repair the problem (providing you have the necessary materials on board). If the hole is below the waterline, you must generally remove the pleasure craft from the water to correct the problem. Every emergency must be assessed properly to prevent further emergencies or even loss of life.

Once the leak has been sealed, remove the water that has accumulated in the hold or other compartments by using the handheld bailers, manual pumps or the bilge pumping system. This might be a situation where you might have to use distress signals to indicate you need assistance. If necessary, use channel 16 on your marine radio with a <<PAN PAN>> signal or use the pyrotechnic distress signals. The pleasure craft operator should always have the tools and the necessary material onboard to stop a hull leak or a flood. Making sure you have a handheld bilge or a manual water pump capable of reaching the bilge and discharging water over the side of the boat is part of the pre-departure checklist. The operator should always assess the situation and establish the safety risks for all people on board.

It is important to note that according to the Navigation Rules, boat operators are required to render assistance to a boat in distress to the extent they are able. Depending on the circumstances, do the following:

• ensure that everyone puts on a PFD or a life jacket;

• keep close to the craft depending on the circumstances;

• do a head count of those who were on board;

• use or show the signals to indicate distress and need of assistance.

The most common causes of on-water incidents and fatalities are due to a collision with other vessels, capsizing and people falling overboard. There are many other causes such as reckless driving, excessive speed, operator inattention, and lack of experience of the operator. Every boating fatality and reported incident are investigated and it was determined that most of these accidents could have been prevented, sometimes with just basic boating knowledge from the operator. The majority of the victims falling overboard and drowning were not wearing a life-saving device. Alcohol was shown to be involved in near 40% of boating fatalities. Statistics also show that 25% of people who fall overboard and 40% of people involved in their boat capsizing have drowned.

Getting in and out of a boat can sometimes be tricky and can create additional risks of falling overboard. When getting into a boat, make sure you are starting from a stable position; remember you are going into a boat that is probably not as stable as solid ground since it floats on water. Always shift and adjust your weight and your body position accordingly, and try to hold on to something stable, like a dockside post, a cable on a ramp post or even another person. The best way to remain stable is to maintain 3 points of contact at all times. In the event you do fall into the water and the water is deep enough, swim to the nearest place where you can get out of the water easily, either by simply walking or using equipment, such as a ladder fixed to the dock, a reboarding device or a swimming platform, if these are already installed on the boat. Depending on the time of the year, the water could be colder than you think and you should get out of the water as soon as possible in order to prevent hypothermia.

People can fall overboard while the boat is moving. For instance, if the boat hits a wave at a wrong angle, then the weight of a person is thrown off balance and they can be ejected from their seat. When people are boarding a pleasure craft, the operator (who is responsible for the people on board) should always decide everybody’s seating position so as to distribute all the weight evenly, thus stabilizing both the people and the material on board. When the boat is moving, passengers should always stay seated. This will also maintain a low center of gravity, which helps to stabilize the boat. Passengers should never stand in a moving boat as it might render it unstable. You should have equipment on board to help a person who has fallen in the water, back in the boat. Know your water depth to avoid damage to the propeller and or lower unit, turn off engine when retrieving a person from the water.

In the event of a person falling overboard, alert everyone immediately. Proceed very cautiously taking the following steps, when possible:

• slow down, stop if possible and throw a floating object to help him or her out (or to indicate where the person has sunk);

• when the person is being retrieved from the water, the engine should be turned off; (this could prevent further emergencies, like the person being hit by the propeller)

• if you have other passengers onboard, ask them to maintain eye contact with the person who fell overboard. Otherwise, if the operator is alone in the boat he or she must operate the boat and maintain eye contact. Emergency situations can happen very quickly, we must always be prepared to react and maintain control;

• steer your boat with care while keeping the person who has fallen in your field of vision to recover the person in a safe manner;

• throw the person a buoyant heaving line or lifebuoy attached to the boat and pull the person up on the windward side.

Boaters should be familiar with different methods to recover someone who has fallen overboard. They should also be able to decide which method to use based on the conditions of both the water and the person overboard. Safety is always the most important issue, even after the emergency has occurred.

Propeller Intervention & Awareness

Motor and propeller strikes can cause severe injury or even death. Serious injuries from such accidents commonly include loss of extremities, disfigurement, disability, or severe permanent deformities. Common propeller strike situations are man-overboard and “circle of death” from the runaway vessel when the operator goes overboard and/or loses control of the steering. Even propellers that are at rest or in neutral can cause injury because they have very sharp edges.

Any person who is in the water near a boat, including swimmers, downed skiers, and divers, can fall victim to such accidents. To avoid a motor/propeller strike, boaters should:

• Turn off the engine when passengers are boarding or exiting the vessel

• Maintain a lookout for people in the water

• Take action to prevent passengers from being thrown overboard.

Keep in mind that most propeller injuries occur on open motorboats that measure 16-25 feet long. Common factors include carelessness, inexperience, and operator inattention. Engine cut-off devices can be useful to limit propeller casualties. An engine cut-off device disables the propulsion of the engine when the operator has unexpectedly fallen from the vessel. In fact, on April 1, 2021, a new federal law went into effect that requires the operator of a boat with an installed Engine Cut-Off Switch (ECOS) to use it. The law applies to any motorized boat with 3 or more horsepower that is less than 26 feet in length and applies to all navigable waters of the US.

Another danger comes from starting a boat while it is in gear. If an engine starts up suddenly while in gear, a person could be knocked down or even thrown out of the boat when the boat suddenly accelerates. Start-in-gear protection will prevent the motor from being started while in gear to avoid accidents due to a sudden thrust. Most new vessels will be equipped with the protection however it is important to be aware of the dangers.

Most incidents where a boat has capsized were caused by mistakes from the operator, such as changing the boat’s direction too quickly while using excessive speed. Another reason would be when they anchor the boat inappropriately against the current or during strong winds, thus rendering the boat unstable. However, it is not always due to errors by the operator. The weather can change quickly, winds can pick up, sudden thunderstorms occur seemingly out of nowhere. You might start a boating expedition early in the morning when the weather is nice and the water is calm but then, hours later, everything can change. If the operator is not experienced in facing these sudden changes, an avoidable incident can turn into a crisis. Keep in mind, the operator is ALWAYS responsible for the people on board. His or her decision to go boating has an impact on everyone aboard.

As mentioned before, boats capsize because they become unstable. A well-designed boat will resist capsizing in severe weather if it is properly loaded and operated. There are many things to keep in mind to reduce the risk of capsizing:

• check the weather forecast before departure. Be aware of external forces such as wind, waves, water depth and the period of the year;

• don’t overload the pleasure craft. Be aware of your boat's capabilities and the fact that adding weight to the boat will affect the available freeboard (distance between the water and the working deck of the boat). If it is overloaded, the freeboard will be reduced which could cause the water to come aboard;

• try to operate your pleasure craft with fuel tanks and water ballasts filled as much as possible. This reduces the possibility of weight shifting, thus increasing the boat’s stability;

• keep all your hatches and port-holes closed. This will prevent water from entering the lower parts of the boat. Checking the conditions of the seals/gaskets and replacing if needed will also prevent water from entering;

• adjust your course and speed accordingly in order to minimize the boat’s motion and increase it's stability;

• avoid sharp or high speed turns where loss of stability can occur.

There are always warning signs that will tell you if your boat becomes unstable and if you run a risk of capsizing, swamping or sinking. Perform visual checks of your boat. If it leans to one side, it could mean it is taking on water. As simple as it may seem, check if the drain plug at the stern is fitted properly. Check if the cargo has shifted during your trip. On larger boats, make sure the bilge level alarms are operational. Sometimes if the bilge pump is operating at unusual frequencies, it could be a sign that the boat is taking in water. These warning signs, along with preventive maintenance and efforts will greatly reduce the risk of instability and possibly save many lives.

If the boat capsizes, everybody should stay close to the pleasure craft; it is easier to locate a boat and its occupants instead of trying to locate scattered individuals. Everybody should try to climb up on the capsized craft. This could prevent hypothermia. If the boat has actually sunk, then everybody should stay close together and ensure that everyone is accounted for.

Running aground, which is when your vessel gets stuck on the bottom, is often due to the operator not being familiar with the area they are navigating. Nautical charts are the key to preventing running aground unless you are experienced in navigating in that area. You must know your water depth, not only for safety but to avoid damages to the engine’s propeller or outdrive. Not all hazards and shallow areas are marked by a buoy so using an onboard depth finder can be a useful tool in avoiding groundings but cannot be the only thing you rely on. Keeping a proper lookout, maintaining a safe speed, and being familiar with your environment are three guidelines that will avoid running aground. Propeller or outdrive strikes on the bottom of the water area can also cause important ecological and sometimes environmental damages.

What do you do in the case where your vessel has run aground?

• Like any accident, the first thing to do is check with everyone on board to make sure none is injured. If so, use your VHF radio or distress signals to contact authorities.

• Then you need to assess if the vessel has sustained any damage. If so, how serious is the damage, and is the boat taking on water? If it is, do not try to return to deeper water.

• If there is no severe damage, you can try some of the maneuvers we talk about next to get your boat free.

After you have assessed the situation and decided you are going to try to get your vessel free, here are a few methods you can use.

If you have an inboard/outboard vessel, shift some weight away from the grounded area of the hull, tilt the engine slightly upward and try to reverse out into deeper water.

If reversing using your motor does not work, you can try pushing off. The execution of this method depends on the type of bottom you are stuck on. If you are stuck on a sand bar, for example, you may be able to get out onto the sand and push the boat free. If it is not safe to get out, start by shifting some weight away from the grounded area of the hull the use a paddle or oar to push off the bottom.

Lastly, you can use the kedge anchor method. A kedge anchor is a small anchor that can be set away from your vessel and then used to haul yourself free from the grounding. Extra PFDs can be used to help support the weight if you are swimming the anchor to its desired spot. The kedge anchor can be brought out by dinghy as well if one is available.

Once the boat is free, continue to monitor for hull leaks and perform the sniff test to be sure you do not have a gasoline leak.

Many of the fatal boating accidents occur in the months when the water is cold (out of season). For instance, many hunters will navigate on the waters to get to their hunting grounds. Cold-water shock occurs when you are suddenly plunged in water that is 60° F and colder. Most people do not understand the dangers and do not know how to deal with it.

The first hazards to contend with are panic and shock. The initial shock can place severe strain on the body; it could paralyze your muscles instantly and, in some cases, even produce instant cardiac arrest. Wearing a PFD or a life jacket during this phase is critically important to keep you afloat and breathing.

Survivors of cold water accidents have reported getting their breath knocked out upon first impact with the water and lasting the first minute of exposure. Should your face be in the water during that first involuntary gasp of breath, you may well be inhaling water rather than air. Cold water shock will pass after about 1 minute. During that time, concentrate on avoiding panic and getting control of your breathing. Immersion in cold water can quickly numb the extremities to the point of them becoming useless. Cold hands cannot fasten the strap of the PFD or the life jacket, grasp a thrown rescue line, life-buoy or hold onto an overturned boat. Within minutes, severe pain will cloud all rational thoughts. Finally, hypothermia (exposure) sets in, and without rescue and proper first aid treatment, unconsciousness and death will follow.

Cold water robs the body of heat 32 times faster than cold air. If you should fall into the water, all efforts should go to getting out of the water by the fastest means possible. It is very important when navigating in cold water, that everyone should wear their PFD or their life jacket since it may save their life. If possible, wear an immersion suit or an anti-exposure suit. These are usually one-piece suits that act both as a jacket to keep you warm and as a personal floatation device. They must follow the same criteria as other PFDs, they must be U.S. Coast Guard approved.

Should you find yourself in the water, avoid panic. Air trapped in clothing can provide buoyancy as long as you remain still in the water. Swimming or treading water will greatly increase heat loss and can shorten survival time by more than 50%. The major body heat loss areas are the head, neck, armpits, chest and groin. If you are not alone, huddle together or in a group facing each other to maintain body heat.

Treatment for hypothermia depends on the condition of the person. Mild hypothermia victims, whose only symptom is shivering and are capable of rational conversation, may only require removal of wet clothes and be replaced by dry clothes and blankets.

In more severe cases where the victim is semi-conscious, immediate steps must be taken to begin the re-warming process. Remove clothing only if it can be done with a minimum of movement to the victim’s body. Do not massage the extremities. Lay the semi-conscious person face up, with the head slightly lowered, unless vomiting occurs. The head down position allows more blood to flow to the brain. A First Aid course is obviously helpful when anyone is faced with emergency situations. Consult organizations in your community that offer such programs to possibly enlist. Never give alcohol to a hypothermia victim.

Most people recovered in cold water (near drowning) show typical hypothermia symptoms. Here are some of these symptoms:

• shivering, slurred speech and semi-consciousness;

• cyanotic (blue) skin coloration;

• breathing difficulty (hyperventilation);

• muscle spasm;

• loss of body movement;

• pupils fully dilated (open);

• become unconscious;

• increased heart rate and blood pressure.

Numerous children have been brought up from freezing water after 30 minutes and have been successfully resuscitated.

The major lesson learned is very simple. It is not enough to carry a PFD or a life jacket on your boat. Once in the water, you may not be able to swim the 6-10 feet or more necessary to locate, reach and put on a PFD or a life jacket. You may not have the dexterity to put it on.

The only effective prevention is to wear a PFD or a life jacket at all times where there is a risk of falling overboard or being ejected from the boat. Once you have entered the water it is too late – the psychological and neurological response of your body to the sudden cold may make it impossible for you to keep your airway above water.

Things to do that may help you survive in cold water:

• wear your PFD/life jacket; some PFD’s come as a one-piece suit commonly used by ice fishermen;

• climb onto a nearby floating object to get as much of your body out or above the water as possible;

• Use the "HELP" or Heat, Escape, Lessening Posture. This posture requires a lifejacket to be effective. You cross your arms tightly against your chest and draw your knees close to help you keep your body heat;

• huddle with others with chests close together, arms around mid-lower back, and legs intertwined.

You can protect yourself by wearing multiple layers of dry clothing and a water or windproof outer layer under a life jacket. Other equipment that can offer extra protection against hypothermia could include:

• floater or survival suits: a full nose-to-toes life jacket;

• anti-exposure work suits: a life jacket with a thermal protection rating;

• dry suits: to be used with a life jacket and a thermal liner;

• wet suits: to be used with a life jacket, will trap and heat water against the body;

• immersion suits: to be used in extreme conditions when abandoning a vessel.

Remember to always make sure that your safety equipment is adequate for navigation in cold water and that everybody on board knows how to operate that equipment.