
To get started, you'll need to know some basic information about the anatomy of the guitar. In our first few lessons we cover the important vocabulary terms that apply to all types of guitars. These are really important terms to know if you are going to buy your first guitar or if you are just starting to learn how to play. If you want to play anything from Metal, to Blues, to Samba, to Rock, understanding the anatomy of the guitar will get you headed in the right direction.
The body is the largest part of the guitar, where you strum or pluck the strings.
The part of the guitar where the strings attach to the body of the guitar.
The smaller piece that stops the strings from vibrating on the body of the guitar.
The pegs that fasten the strings to the bridge.
The hole cut out of the center of the body of the guitar.
The flat, protective piece of plastic beneath the soundhole. The pickguard protects the top of the guitar from damage by the pick or fingers.
The long skinny piece of wood that extends out from the body. It is the area of the instrument played by your left hand (assuming you are right-handed).
The thin, flat slab of laminated wood on top of the neck. The fretboard is generally made of a hardwood such as rosewood or maple.
The thin metal bars laid into the fretboard.
Gently press a fingertip onto a string to the left of one of your frets.
The head, or headstock, is at the end of the neck of the guitar.
The small skinny piece of bone, plastic or metal, where the neck ends and the headstock begins.
The six posts which are used to attach the six strings to the headstock.
The part of the tuning post that rotates, so you can tighten or loosen the tension of the string by twisting the peg.
6th String: The thickest string that is closest to the ceiling.
The body is the largest part of the guitar. Assuming you are right-handed, the strings attached to the body of the guitar are strummed or plucked by your right hand to produce sound.
The bridge is the piece of wood where the strings are fastened to the body of the guitar.
The saddle is the piece of bone or plastic laid into the bridge of the guitar. It stops the vibration of the string on one end when plucked or strummed.
The long skinny piece of wood that extends out from the body is called the neck. It is the area of the instrument played by your left hand (assuming you are right-handed).
The fretboard is the thin, flat slab of laminated wood on top of the neck. It is generally made of a hardwood such as rosewood or maple. It is also sometimes referred to as the fingerboard.
The thin metal bars laid into the fretboard, the frets are used to shorten the vibrating length of a string being played. Most guitars have between 18 and 24 frets.
The head or headstock is at the end of the neck of the guitar. It is the part of the guitar where the strings are attached, other than the bridge (on the body of the guitar.)
The nut is the small skinny strip of bone, plastic or metal, where the neck ends and the headstock begins. The nut has slots that hold the strings into place, and stops the vibration of a plucked string on one end. The saddle provides the same function on the other end of the instrument.
This type of guitar is well known for its large and hollow body.
Steel strings are made with a steel core that is wrapped with a different type of metal (usually copper, nickel or bronze).
Similar to the steel string guitar, the nylon has a large hollow body—although it is typically not quite as large as the steel string.Note: The nylon string guitar is also commonly referred to as a Classical Guitar.
All nylon strings are generally softer and more flexible than than those used on a steel string guitar.
Electric guitars have the thinnest bodies, which generally makes them more comfortable to play than acoustic guitars at first.
Pickups are the set of magnets placed where the sound hole would be on an acoustic guitar; they measure the vibration created when you pluck a string.
Strings: Similar to the strings used on a steel string acoustic guitar, electric guitar strings are made from a steel core wrapped in other metals such as bronze or nickel. However, electric guitar strings come in a lighter gauge (thickness of string) than acoustic guitar strings, thus making them more flexible and easier to play.
Cord: The wire that transmits the signal created by vibrating guitar strings from the guitar to its amplifier. Electric guitars universally use a 1/4 inch cord.
Amplifier (A.K.A. Amp): The piece of equipment that interprets the vibrations sent from a guitar’s pickups and broadcasts them through a set of speakers. Guitar amplifiers have various controls—including volume, tone and distortion—this can change the original sound coming from the guitar.
Whammy Bar: A lever attachment to the guitar that, when pushed, flexes a joint in the bridge that increases or decreases the tension on the strings. This change in tension creates changes in the pitch being played.
High Action: When the strings are very far away from the fretboard, a guitar with high action is harder to play because it requires more finger strength to press the strings down against the frets.
Low Action: When the strings are very close to the fretboard. A guitar with low action is usually easier to play, but can also give off a “buzz” sound because the strings may hit the fretboard in multiple places.
The piece of plastic or bone on the bridge that raises the strings away from the body of the guitar. The height of the saddle can be adjusted to raise or lower the guitar's action.
The spaces carved out of the nut that hold the strings in place. The depth of the slots determine the height of the action on the neck of the guitar the same way the saddle does on the bridge.
To enable an acoustic guitar and make sounds louder than those naturally produced by its hollow body, a pickup, cord and amplifier are needed. While some acoustic guitars have pickups installed, most do not. If you decide you want to amplify an acoustic guitar that does not have a pickup, an aftermarket one can either be clipped onto the sound hole or permanently installed inside.
Important Tip: Make sure to use strings that are designed for your type of guitar. For example, if you're playing an electric guitar, only use strings that say "Electric Guitar Strings" on the packaging. Using strings that are not designed for your guitar can cause permanent damage.
A tool that is primarily designed to help you twist the tuning pegs, and depending on the direction you twist, loosen or tighten the tension of your strings.
Drag your finger all the way to end of the string that you want to change to make sure that you are loosening the correct tuning peg. Use the string winder (or your fingers) to rotate the tuning peg which loosens the strings. Pluck the string you are loosening.
Make sure you loosen the tension on the string before cutting. Use the wire cutter or a string cutter to cut the middle of the string.
Use the notch on the back of the string winder (or a pair of pliers) to pull the bridge pin up and out of the bridge. Use your hand to carefully unwind the string from the tuning post and be careful, string ends can be sharp!
Be sure to select the correct string. Packaging varies by string manufacturer.
Find the end of the string that has a ball on it and insert it into the open hole in the bridge.
Feed the string into the correct slot on the nut.
Use your sting winder (or fingers) to rotate the tuning peg. Be careful not to tighten it so much you risk breaking the string.
Use your string cutter to clip off any loose ends like you did when you removed the string. Remember, be careful of the sharp ends of the strings.
Loosen and cut the old string. On most electric guitars, you will need to push the ball end of the string though the back of the guitar.
Select your string. Be careful to choose the correct replacement string! Feed the non-ball end of the sting through the correct hole in the back of the guitar. Pull the non-ball end of the string though the hole in the front of the guitar until the ball end of the string catches in the back of the guitar.
Feed the string into the correct slot on the nut. Lay the string against the inside of the tuning peg. Wrap the string around the tuning peg 1-3 times, depending on which string you are fastening. Make sure you wrap the string below the hole in the tuning post. Feed the string through the hole in the post. Exit the hole above the loops you've made to ensure that the string is locked into position on the post.
Use your string winder (or fingers) to rotate the tuning peg. Be careful not to tighten so much you risk breaking the string. Unlike stringing an acoustic guitar, the tuning posts for electric guitars are normally all on the same side. Pluck the string you are tightening. If the tone gets higher while you tighten, you are rotating in the correct direction.
Feed the non-braided end of the string through the correct hole in the back of the bridge.
Take the short end of the string and loop it under and around the longer length of string.
Tuck the short end of the string behind the bridge.
Feed the string into the correct slot on the nut.
Use your string winder (or fingers) to rotate the tuning peg. This will use the loops you’ve created to lock the string in place. Be careful not to tighten so much as to break the string.
Pitch Fork: A metal fork that, when struck, makes a specific tone which matches the tone your guitar makes when you pluck a string.
Microphone Tuner: An electronic tuner that uses a microphone to listen to the tone a string makes. These are much easier to use than a tuning fork but require that you tune in a quite environment.
Vibration Tuner: An electronic tuner that clips onto the headstock of your guitar and measures the vibration from a string that you pluck. Because this type of tuner doesn’t use a microphone, you can use it in a noisy room.LESSON SUMMARY: READING A GUITAR TUNER
E(6)
In Tune: Make sure that the name or number on the tuner corresponds correctly to the string you are plucking. If the tuner points at the center mark in its display dial when you pluck a string, that string is in tune.
Sharp: When a pitch is too high. When tuning, if the needle goes past the center mark of the dial that string has too much tension and is sharp.
Flat: When a pitch is too low. When tuning, if the needle does not make it to the center of the display, the string you are tuning needs more tension and is flat.LESSON SUMMARY: PLAYING GUITAR WITH PROPER POSTURE
Sit in a comfortable chair with your chest up and your feet on the ground. Keep your knees at a right angle to the floor (90 degrees). Some prefer to elevate one leg to help raise the guitar.
Both electric and acoustic guitars should rest against your right leg.
Angle the guitar neck slightly up towards your eyes. This will help you see the fretboard while you play. In general, it is better to bring the guitar to you than for you to lean over to see the guitar.
A piece of cloth, nylon, leather or plastic that attaches to the guitar goes over your right shoulder to hold the guitar in place while you play.
Nylon string guitars should be placed on the left leg. This allows you to rest your wrist on the guitar so you can easily pluck strings with your right hand.
Place the crease of your right elbow onto the top edge of the front of the guitar to lock the guitar against your body.
Your arm should be placed in a position that allows you to freely swing your forearm from the elbow. If held correctly, nothing on the guitar should impede the motion of your forearm swinging.
When you swing your arm, your right hand should pass by the pickup (on your electric guitar) or sound hole (on your acoustic guitar).
Practice dragging your right thumb over all of the strings slowly. This will get your arm used to swinging and get you ready to start strumming. While doing this exercise, try to get all six strings to ring out equally as loud.
An tool used to help pluck the strings of the guitar. Picks are made from various materials (plastic, nylon, shell, etc.) and come in different thicknesses and sizes.
Make a relaxed fist so you can see a one-inch circular hole in the middle.
Balance the pick on your index finger so the tip points away from the palm of your hand.
Lightly place your thumb on the pick to secure it against your index finger.
While you strum, the pick should start away from the guitar and dip down into the strings, then raise back away from the guitar in a fluid arching motion. Slowly swing your arm from the elbow.
Rotate your wrist in rhythm with the movement of your elbow. Rotate counter-clockwise while your arm is moving down and clockwise as it returns.
Bend your wrist so it's far from the guitar at the top and bottom of your arc, and close to the guitar in the middle.
Flex your thumb slightly to angle your pick. This will stop the pick from getting caught on the strings and round out the sound when you strum.LESSON SUMMARY: PLAYING THE GUITAR WITH YOUR FINGERS
Rest your right thumb on the 6th string, allowing your hand to stay in place over the strings. Try to keep your thumb reaching out towards the head of the guitar, so it doesn't collide with your other fingers when you use it to pluck.
Curl your fingers up so that your index finger rests on the 3rd string, Middle finger rests on the 2nd string and your ring finger rests on the 1st string. Try to avoid putting your pinky finger down to anchor your hand.
When your fingers pluck inward toward the palm of the hand to pluck a string and then follow through in a natural motion. Any finger can make a free stroke, including the thumb. When playing free strokes, try to keep your hand on the guitar. Free strokes are generally used when playing chords.
When you pluck the string by pushing the string downward into the face of the guitar, and the follow-through lands the finger on whatever string is adjacent. Rest strokes are generally used when playing a melody.LESSON SUMMARY: TIPS FOR YOUR RIGHT HAND
LESSON SUMMARY: POSITIONING YOUR LEFT HAND
Place the pad of your thumb on the back of the neck of the guitar. Point the thumb at a 45-degree angle, away from the body of the guitar so your fingers are slightly farther away from the headstock than your thumb. It is OK to roll onto the outside of the thumb or move your thumb below the middle of the neck at times.
Secure your thumb on the back of the neck of the guitar. Move your hand forward so the line where your fingers connect to your hand is slightly beyond the bottom edge of the fretboard. Curl your fingers so they are arched and the tips face the fretboard. Push the tips of your fingers (not the pads) against the strings.LESSON SUMMARY: FRETTING NOTES
Place your left hand in the proper position on the neck.
The 6 horizontal lines that are meant to represent the 6 strings on your guitar. The strings on a tab staff are laid out in the opposite order from your guitar:
The numbers on a tab staff are meant to represent the note that is fretted. Numbers on a tab staff are NOTwhat fingers you use or what strings to press.
The numbers get higher when you read them from left to right. This means the 3rd fret on the 6th string was played first and the 6th fret on the 6th string was played last.
The numbers on the 6th String (E) are placed before the numbers on the 5th string (A). This means that you should play the notes on the 6th string first.
Notes placed on top of each other are strummed at the same time. Lines without a number are not strummed.
An open string is a string that you strum without a pressing any of the frets.
6th String (E): Press 5th fret then 8th fret. LESSON SUMMARY: READING CHORD DIAGRAMS
Sometimes known as a "chord grid," this is a chart that is used by guitar players as a snapshot of where to put their fingers to play multiple notes/strings at once at a time.
Chord Diagrams are displayed like the guitar neck is being held so it is pointing into the air. Lines that run from left to right represent the frets on the guitar. Generally, the top line represents the nut unless there is a number outside the grid that indicates otherwise.
Lines that run up and down represent the strings of the guitar.
2nd finger > 5th String (A) > 2nd fret
2nd Finger > 5th String (A) > 2nd Fret
Stings that have the number zero (0) on the top of the chord diagram represent open chords.
Lines with an "X" over the top of the chord diagram represent strings that you should not play.
Chord Diagrams: A grid that gives you a snapshot of what strings and frets to press at a single point in time. Chord diagrams also tell you what fingers to use.
Tablature: A set of six lines that tells you what strings and frets to press in a timeline format. Tabs can express both harmony and melody.
E-Minor in Chord Diagram |
E-Minor in Tablature |
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LESSON SUMMARY: INTRODUCTION TO CHORDS
First Finger (1): 3rd String (G) > 2nd Fret
Keep your wrist straight.LESSON SUMMARY: TRANSITIONING BETWEEN CHORDS
2nd Finger (Middle): 5th string (A) > 2nd fret
1st Finger (Pointer): 3rd string (B) > 2nd fret
Strum E-Major (E) chords four times in an slow and even pace.
Strum 4 A-Major (A) chords four times in an slow and even pace.
1st Finger (pointer): 2nd String (B) > 1st Fret
4th Finger (pinky): 1st String (e) > 3rd Fret
4th Finger (pinky): 2nd String > 1st Fret
Using one of your fingers to deaden the vibration made when you strum a string. This is done on the F-Major chord on the 1st string to prevent that string from ringing out.LESSON SUMMARY: MUSICAL KEYS
C-Major (C)
G-Major (G)
G-Major (G)
A-Major (A)
2nd Finger (middle): 5th String (A) > 2nd Fret
2nd Finger (middle): 4th String (D) > 2nd Fret
1st Finger (pointer): 1st String (e) > 1st Fret
When your 1st finger is on the 6th string (E). This type of chord can be played with either 2 or 3 fingers.
1st Finger (pointer): 6th String (E) > 1st Fret
These are played the same as the 2 string power chords but with an added pinky finger in the same fret on the string below your ring finger. Playing your power chords with three fingers will make the tone of your chords slightly richer.
When your first finger is placed on the 5th string (A). These chords can also be played with 2 or 3 fingers.
First Finger (pointer): 5th String (A) > 5th Fret
When you use one finger to press multiple strings at the same time. This is used to make all Barre Chords and requires a fair amount of hand strength.
3rd Finger (ring): 5th String (A) > 3rd Fret
3rd Finger (ring): 4th String (D) > 3rd Fret
LESSON SUMMARY: MAJOR AND MINOR BARRE CHORDS
3rd Finger (ring): 5th String (A) > 3rd Fret
3rd finger (ring): Barre 2nd (B), 3rd (G), 4th (D) strings > 4th fret
In this class you'll learn everything you need to know to get started playing the guitar from SQUARE ONE! These are lessons that all guitar players need to master no matter what genre they want to play. This included: