Classic Eyelash Extension Course

Welcome to Beauty Fetish's Classic Eyelash Extension Course by Lash Expert and Educator, Sandye Lomax. Sandye is a licensed Cosmetologist, Esthetician, Nail Tech and Certified Eyelash Extensions. Sandye has been honing her craft for well over a decade. You have seen her work on some of your favorite celebrities, new anchors, tv, film, ads and magazines.

During this course Sandye shares her technique from start to finish in applying classic eyelash extensions. The application of eyelash extensions is a highly technical and meticulous process. She even shares all you will need to start your beginners kit so you can get to lashing! Practice makes perfect so always practice and be patient with yourself as you move into the realm of becoming a professional Eyelash Artist!

Cycle of Eyelash Growth

There are three phases of eyelash growth cycle:

Anagen lashes are the smallest, finest, shortest, least~developed eyelash hairs. They exist for up to two months.

Catagen phase also known as the transitional or resting phase lashes are medium in length texture and diameter.

Telogen is the last phase. The longest, darkest and coarsest eyelash hairs.

Anatomy  & Physiology of the Eye

~The Contuntiva is a thin, clear, moist mucous membrane. It coats the inner surfaces of the eyelids and the outer surface of the eye.

~The Cornea is the transparent covering over the iris (the outer, circular part of the eye gives us our eye color) and the pupil (the smaller, black center of the eye). It protects the lens, the anterior chamber, the iris and other structures. Its main purpose is the refract light and assist in focusing.

~The Eyelid  is a thin covering of skin that protects the eye. Its main function is to spread tears to the keep the cornea and conjunctiva moist through continuous blinking. The eyelid also acts as a barrier to keep the from drying out during sleeping. At the edge of the eyelid are two glands; one at the end of the eyelash follicle (Zeis gland) and a large one at the back of the lid (Meibomian gland).

~The Eyelash acts as a sweeper to keeps debris from irritating the eye. It also acts as a sensor, stimulating the blink reflex when it feels foreign objects close to the eye.

Our eyelashes exist in a constant cycle of growth, rest and loss. All three stages take place at the same time. Eyelashes constantly and quickly regenerate.

Classic Eyelash Extension Technique and Process

First you always wanna sanitize your hands. It gives your client a comforting feeling knowing you are sanitizing your hands prior to coming close into their immediate space.

Tear off four strips of medical grade tape. I'm going to secure her bottom lashes down. Notice I am going in a crisscross position, makes it comfortable for the client.

Apply gel pads over top of the tape. This keeps the bottom lashes from touching or sticking to top lashes while you work.

I love to use a soft paper towel across the forehead. This way I can dispose after each client and it prevents skin on skin contact. It gives a spa like relaxing feeling.

I'm right handed so I prefer to set up on my right side. I use disposable adhesive mini pallets. The palletsI use have several separated grooves so that I can drop just enough adhesive for each set. This way I can do several clients in a day without double dipping.

Shampoo lashes thoroughly using Beauty Fetish sensitive foam cleanser. Dry them and brush making sure there isn't any residue on them.

Shake up your adhesive well. Add a drop to two in the groove of pallet. Some like to use jade stones also.

You will find your comfort zone in whether you feel comfortable isolating before or after you prep the lash you are about to apply.

To give a natural look go with the flow of the natural lashes. Meaning most natural lashes are shorter in the inner corners of the eye, longer in center or end depending on the individual.

Dip the blunt end of lash in adhesive. I try to make sure I can see a little ball of adhesive on the end of the lash. You want to make sure you are using enough adhesive so that the lash adheres to the lash you are attaching it to. You can swipe off excess adhesive onto the gel pad. Stroke the lash up and down to make

sure that the adhesive cover the lash.

Try to get close to the base of the lash but do not touch the skin.

Right and left hand coordination is key. Tools should never touch clients skin.

Everybody has their way of applying lashes. Some do one eye at a time. I personally prefer to go to a different section or work from going from one eye to the other. This gives each lash time to dry as opposed to lashes touching wet lashes when isolating.

Use a handheld fan to dry lashes to avoid clients feeling any fumes when opening their eyes after a their lash application. Some use a mister fan when done applying a set.

Removal and Touch Up Process

Use the same steps as applying a new application when it comes to hand sanitation, prepping client and securing bottom lashes.

Cleanse lashes using Beauty Fetish foam cleanser and brush. Dry and brush using a land wand.

Most clients come back within 3-4 weeks for a touchup. Depending how client cares for their lashes or their growth cycle will determine when they need a touch-up. You should be able to see where lashes have grown out or individually shed off

I prefer a gel adhesive remover to remove all loose and grown out lashes. Use a a micro mini q-tip or a disposal lip brush is good for removing multiple lashes at once. Isolate the lash you are removing and gentle rub the extension off of the lash.

You must remove all adhesive before attempting to re-apply lashes

Eye Shaping

Always address the following situations first before considering face shape or eye shapes:

Protruding Eyes: Do not use extremely long extensions, instead focus on creating thickness and not length.

Drooping Lower Lids and Downturned Eyes: Do not use lower lash extensions. Focus attention instead on the upper lids to create the illusion of lifting the eyes upward.

Close set eyes: Avoid using even medium length extensions anywhere near the inner corners. This can make a client with close-set eyes look crossed eyed.

Sanitation and Infection Prevention

Sanitation should always meet State Board specifications

To prevent the potential spread of bacteria ALWAYS be sure to wash your hands use a bacterial soap between clients. Properly sanitize and sterilize your tools (tweezers or forceps) and products.

Keep workshop and surfaces clean.

Make sure all linen is cleaned daily. You may also use disposable coverings.

Never double dip using the same adhesive you used on another client.

Always use a soft paper - towel across clients forehead or gloves you can dispose of after each client.

Give clients the disposable mascara wand at the end of their service in a secured sanitation baggie or pouch to take with them. This insures them it was and specific for their use ONLY. They also have the option of purchasing their own tools (tweezers or forceps) that remain in a sanitation pouch and is only used for their service.

Marketing, Profits and Business Success

Remember that your clients are your walking billboard.

Professional Training will take you a long way.

Today social media is a free tool for marketing your services and showing your quality of work. as well as a website.

Word of mouth is great advertisement.  This is how you will usually get referrals. It doesn't hurt to have clients give a testimony or review about how they feel about their experience with you and your business.

Educate your clients when it comes to the knowledge about the service you provide. This helps to build confidence in your client knowing you take your craft seriously. This can contribute to them coming back and supporting your business.

Network within your community.

Use good quality products.

Factor in the cost of your product and materials.

Price according to your experience and quality of work. What is the price point in your state or city.

Use a reputable and efficient scheduling site. This provides business structure.

Always stay updates on your state's guidelines.

Aftercare

Informing your clients on how to care for their lashes can help with the longevity of the lashes.

Avoid getting lashes wet or steam rooms 24 hours after the application.

Do not use heated lash curlers.

Avoid picking twisting lashes. Doing so can cause damage to the natural lash and premature shedding.

Clients should avoid using mascara or products that contain solvents, alcohol and glycols to prevent loosening the extensions.

Keep lashes clean.